hyalinejim

Thanks @Jn- and @Orangenz. I see that I'm getting slow rewraps because I'm doing them on slow USB 2.0 drives. Internal SATA and SSDs are much quicker.

The skin tones you get with Leeming's lut are actually colorimetrically accurate, according to his methodology. But not all people (myself included) find accurate colours pleasing.

How do you set it to rewrap? Because I think it's maybe transcoding for me - I'm getting about 20fps. Isn't it supposed to be almost instant?

Http://www.eoshd.com/comments/topic/24249-adobe-breaks-gh5-10bit-import-for-pc-solution-inside/?do=findComment&comment=193617

Maybe you could consider purchasing Leeming Lut One for Cine-D? It will give you accurate colours straight out of the box. By using A:6 you're pushing all hues to orange. But the relationship between them will still be just as skewed. Leeming's luts will reallocate the spread of hues and saturation to match a standard Colorchecker. It should solve the green skin problem.

Man, this is so true. I don't want to have to fight a lut when I use it. I just want to set my white and black points before the lut, and maybe the midtones. If the lut is contrasty, I should be able to recover highlights and shadows and control overall contrast with these 3 simple clicks. If the lut has colour shifts throughout the range that's fine, but it should preserve the colour temperature of the midtones. I don't want a lut to have a hard clipping limit at either end of the waveform. I want to be able to go from 0 to 100 IRE. It's difficult to decide which lut looks good when colour and luma goes all over the place when cycling through them

Mmmm! Delicious!

I like the bit when they say I don't know whether to take that seriously.

Ironically, the publisher is well aware of your gripe, being the originator of this famous article: https://www.canopycanopycanopy.com/contents/international_art_english Anyway, this is off topic. If you don't like the text just look at the images - they're pretty revealing on their own merits.

Not according to Paul Leeming's tests: VLog has one stop more than Cine D, which in turn has ever so slightly more DR than Like709, even with knee adjusted.

https://tisch.nyu.edu/photo/events/guest-lecture---claire-lehmann If she's good enough for Parkett and Cabinet, she's good enough for me. Back to the article: I was surprised when I first calibrated my camera to a Colorchecker and didn't particularly like the colour. It's been often mentioned on the forums that accurate colour is not pleasing colour. The article explains this in relation to the development of Kodak products. But I think you could say the same about Canon. Another example: I have Leeming Lut One for the GH5. It gives very accurate colour. If I use it, however, it's as a neutral base for further hue and saturation shifts.

Luts: "The chromatic styles or moody palls of these looks are temporary effects, aesthetic skins that images can inhabit or shed." From an amazing article on colour: https://www.canopycanopycanopy.com/contents/color-goes-electric

You'll really see the advantage of 10bit in VLog. 8bit will apart straight away whereas 10bit is fine.

I've started making my own. I'm so into it that I dream about colour patches...

I made my own viewing lut as well and the contrast goes funky - lots of banding and posterisation as I rack the exposure up and down. I think the level of contrast itself is pretty much spot on, though. I just ignore it as I know it'll be fine in post, but I'd prefer if it were more WYSIWYG. There's no banding or posterisation with the built in lut. Maybe the in-camera VLog to Viewing Lut to Monitor / LCD pipeline happens on a really basic level.

I'm not asking for camera controls that satisfy everyone. Merely controls that make more sense to more people. This is like an ON / OFF switch that only turns things ON, but not OFF. Does that sound like a clever idea to you? I'm not looking for platitudes, I'm looking for solutions. Mercer's solution is not ideal - there's an annoying touch AF box that pops up in the bottom right of the LCD. And the joystick now controls the magnification area rather than the AF point.

Honestly, some things are just mind boggling though. Why not allow the shutter half press to perform the function of the clicking AF button? Why not allow Continuous AF ON / OFF to be assignable to a Fn key? Yet I can assign a million other silly things I'll never use... Why no ISO on the jog dial? It would be truly useful there. There is the possibility to assign a Fn key with the ability to switch the shutter and aperture dials to ISO and WB. But if you press the same key again - you can't switch them back! It's fucking madness, I tell you. Madness.

Thanks! That's closer to what I want. Problem is, the AF/AE Lock button makes an audible click, which is not good for on-camera sound. I can live with the fact it's not continuous by switching the AF dial to AFC or AFS/AFF if I need continuous. I think this is a good solution. Except for the noise of the buttons and switches. What were they thinking? I'm pretty sure those clicks had to be designed in as a feature. Anyway, it's a good sign that my complaints about the camera are on this level of the almost inconsequential.

I've done that as per my first post. It's not quite what I'm after though. Under these circumstances I need to half press the shutter button to enable MF, but when you half press the shutter button it will perform AF before you can do AF. I'd like to be MFing, and occasionally half press shutter to AF, like when shooting photos on a DSLR. Maybe it's just not possible. But it seems odd to me. I think the menus are different on gh5. Options for AF/AE Lock are AE Lock - AF Lock - AF/AE Lock - AF ON. There's also an option for AF/AE Lock Hold.. ON or OFF.

Just a quick question here. How the hell do you get manual AND autofocus to work simultaneously. What I'm looking for is the experience of shooting DSLR stills where you can either turn the focus ring manually OR you can half press the shutter button (AF stops when it achieves focus, but if you move the camera it focuses again). I want to do this on my GH5. Closest I've got so far is using an exotic combination of menu selections: AFS in menu, AF+MF in menu = on, Continuous AF = on, AF/AE lock button = AF lock in menu, body switched to AFS. Under these conditions, when you press AF/AE lock you can focus manually. When you press it again, the camera returns to continuous AF. The problems are: 1. The AF/AE lock button makes a stupid click as do all of the buttons on the body except for the shutter half press. 2. Audio meters disappear 3. Peaking doesn't work when AE lock is on... just wonderful. Does anybody know how to get this shit going? It feels like the menu and AF systems were designed by a bunch of people who never spoke to each other, and never picked up the camera. All I want to do is manual focus 90% of the time with peaking, and have the option to quickly and silently engage autofocus without going into menus, making a clicking noise, or touching the screen (I like to shoot through the EVF).

Absolutely! I also turn sharpness up to the max so that it helps with focusing. With digic peaking it makes focusing so much easier.

Looks good! Would like to see a few more samples under different conditions before forking over the cash.

Youtube conversion denoises the video.

For me there's no difference in AE

One from my own country: Any Richie Kavanagh video is an instant classic in my book.