meanwhile

That's nice. Although I still don't think the rest of the universe will understand what you are "solving".... Global Warming is an example of something you "solve"; someone quoting a blog post you linked to and commenting on it... Not really.

I certainly read the entire review. No, I don't think that quoting the entire review(!!!) here is necessary to discuss it. And if I am going to comment on it, then quoting the part I am commenting is - well, it's how the entire Internet works. It's fairer and less error prone than paraphrasing you. And if you think that your blog posts should only be referred to and never commented on... that's just weird. I suppose you could add "Please NEVER quote or discuss the posts I make here!!!" in huge letters at the top and bottom of your blog if you really feel that way.

So the condensed version would be - correct me if I'm wrong and thanks for a valuable review - this - The list of shortcomings can seem daunting. If initiating recording while looking through the EVF, the LCD turns off, and vice versa. There are no histogram or zebras in movie mode. (The histogram has been enabled and EVF functionality has been addressed in a firmware update). When using the battery grip, the camera will stop recording when one of the batteries dies. The camera remote app won’t capture 4K, only 720p. Battery life is abysmal. There is no articulating LCD screen. Log must be recorded externally. In AF-C, the camera changes focus points abruptly, which can be jarring. The handgrip is unnecessarily small. Focus points cannot be made small enough in video mode. ...These sound like problems that won't be problems for some people at all. Eg if you shoot with manual lenses anyway generally from a chest braced rig or monopod, then changing batteries more often doesn't sound like an awful trade-off for the image quality. I'd find not having zebras a little annoying, but as long as I had a histogram I'd be ok. The "article" was written by a completely unqualified idiot. Petapixel isn't a new source that does fact checking; it's a blog that scoops up bottom feeder content to sell advertising. Highlightsof this idiot's performance include "proving" that the sensor is broken because the camera doesn't denoise algorithm doesn't give exactly the same result as that of his favourite raw processor. And skin looks a little odd if you blow a shot of a crowd up to around a metre... The real point of the xtrans design is that it reduces colour noise - hence colourless grain. It's a shame that the system design is incompatible with IBIS... I'm selling my Fuji gear - I find retro controls boring and annoying and in APSC I prefer the look of Sony - but there is a lot to said for Fuji.

You certainly shouldn't use them as a chest or shoulder rig - they're not designed for stresses in that direction - and why even bother? Buy a cheap L shaped flash bracket and glue or tape end to a piece of wood to make a butt plate - or stick in polymorph like I did. Put an arca clamp or ballhead at the other end - or just join it to the camera with a tripod screw. If you need a longer support, add a straight flash bracket. (If this description doesn't make sense, bother me and I'll post an image.) Using something designed to bend as a rigid support - not good engineering! Otoh, if you use your strap as a stablizer then a gpod can help as a wrist brace. I agree with jonpais that you should never trust your camera to a gpod alone.

No, you didn't give more details. Not the specific ones asked for. You said that you were using "an sd card" but I think everyone already knew that. What sd card are using? Is it a U3 one? What brand and model? ...The evidence does seem to be that people have had this problem when storage media haven't quite been able to keep up and that for some reason this shows more in pans. Did you read the thread Robino provided the link to?

It really would help people help you if you give more details. - Does this happen only in 4K or HD as well? - What card are you using? - What lenses - How fast are you panning - Are lens IS or E-IS on?

There seem to be at least two types of these new c-mount APSC lenses- - The mis-labelled f1.4 lenses that are usually with a warning they are really f2.8. I think these are 6 element - The ringed lens f1.8 lenses. I've seen green rings and blue rings. If ebay ads can be relied on, the blues have a 12 section iris compared to probably some lesser number in the green. These are 8 element. Some sub-versions seem t be able to focus very close. Versions with permanent Sony and Fuji mounts seem to exist.

Re. the G85 - have you updated the firmware? https://www.digitaltrends.com/photography/panasonic-confirms-g85-glitch/

I'll shoot a pan if I manage to get out today (I'm getting over flu and there's a thing called rain in the NW UK a lot of the time.) You would also try this ...What firmware are running? Also, are the lens you are using stabilized, and how fast are your pans? How long does it take you to go through eg 45 degrees? What resolution are you shooting in?

Yes, but otoh you didn't have the benefits of IBIS either. I found that it took me 2 or 3 minutes to learn how to end a pan smoothly with IBIS on. Or you could switch IBIS off for when you have to pan.

Seemed ok once I started decelerating gradually to end a pan - maybe over half a second - rather rather coming to a hard stop. And turning on e-stabilization helps.

And, again for anyone finding this thread in the future, probably the sanest option if you do want manual focus while experimenting with video is something like this C-mount lens These lenses are designed to cover a APSC sensor, so m43 is no problem. One of these, a vintage 50mm, and a use copy of one of the better wide angle converters will give the full frame equivalent of 35, 50 and 100mm for the less than the cost of a lens Turbo. More - https://medium.com/@adam.zivner/review-of-zonlai-25mm-f-1-8-e4ccbac76a1 There also seem to be options for using c-mount lens for smaller sensor sizes by cropping, including the Electronic Teleconverter function, even if that does sound a counter intuitive way of getting a wide angle shot.

Well, firstly the guy was saying - as far as he was capable of saying anything coherently - that modern lenses trade "pop" for resolution. Which would seem to be the opposite of your experience of the Sigmas. Secondly, that's just one modern lens design. Different makers go for different looks. Just as vintage Zeiss and Leica didn't look the same.

All I can say is stop being stew-pid, u more-on. People with aspergers know perfectly well that you are referring to them when you say "ass burger" and that you are using the comparison in a derogatory way. Excusing yourself by saying that other people should have more of a sense of humour so that can you insult them is, frankly, pathetic. These are people who are more intelligent and much less ass-like than you are showing yourself to be, but who still have more than share of problems. ....So I suggest that you take a big dose of grow-up pills and stop making other people more miserable just because you think it is funny. Also, the story about Leica originated with Reuters, so, yes, a proper news source - https://www.reuters.com/article/us-blackstone-leica-camera-sale-idUSKBN1AI22V?lr=lr ...So you're about as smart as you sensitive, adult, and funny...

If you use an insulting term for people who are neurologically divergent as a general insult, then you're not in a great position to criticize. This is no different from using racist or homophobic language.

I haven't used one of these, but if you're talking about side to side movement while walking, then a Fig Rig is excellent. And they're easy to improvise with a camera clamp.

No. I opened a profile years ago and never used it until now. And I don't have the hands on skills for lens modding. I wish I did! I can sound relatively expert on a lot of technical subjects fast because I'm a good researcher and used to doing things like technical audits on business plans. So when got interested in stills about 18 months ago I realised at a certain point that dpreview type tests and mtfs were insufficient, wondered why film looked different digital, and spent a few hours doing research. Other interesting things I realised: - Sample variation of some lens designs with can be huge. Naturally marketing picks the best ones out to send to out on loan to reviewers... (The zooomier a lens and the faster, the bigger the scope for variation - even more so if the lens includes a sub 35mm FL on fullframe DSLRs, because then a lot of complexity gets added to work around the mirror box.) - DSLR focus accuracy varies considerably and poorer focus costs resolution. These losses are eliminated from most tests. (Mirrorless cameras don't have this problem.) The best site for interesting articles on camera tech is lensrentals.com, if anyone fancies a really good nerd-out. Some of their best articles - https://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2011/08/lens-geneology-part-1/ https://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2011/01/cooking-with-glass/ Re. coatings https://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2011/12/reflections-on-reflections-the-most-important-part-of-your-lens/

Google "sugru camera grip". Thanks for the varavon suggestion; I'll probably buy one tomorrow.

A much better discussion of filter stack thickness than I'm capable of https://petapixel.com/2014/07/08/sensor-stack-thickness-part-iii-summary/

The above is about 70% correct but no more and it's interesting to consider why - - "Nano tech coatings" - this is just marketing; nano has just been added as a cool word. You can claim any damn coating to nanotech because it contains molecules and that's how big they are. Coatings were already excellent quite a long time ago, since then it's been a case of chasing diminishing returns - "Modern lenses are optimized for electronic sensors whereas 1970s/1980s lens designs were optimized for film" Yes, but also no. The main change is that rays have to more parallel to the lens axis when they hit a digital sensor because of the filter stack. But -- This generally isn't a significant problem for anything but wides -- It generally isn't a problem if you sample only the centre of a lens -- A well-designed focal length reducer could well design around the problem and correct the rays (I haven't checked) -- Filter stack thickness varies by something like a factor of five. The deeper the stack, the more parallel the rays have to be. So it is quite possible that a lens designed for a thin stack digital will have the same problems as a film lens on a thick stack camera, especially if the lens is a wide and the sensor sizes are the same. I think a Nikon lens on a Sony body might have this problem and therefore reduced contrast at the edges of the frame, but I can't be bothered to google for stack thicknesses - The main improvement in lens performance has come from the use of more complex grinds thanks to computer controlled machinery and different "glasses" with balancing characteristics. And improved quality control for better quality per cost - Sigma are probably the best example here with their Foveon based lens testing and aggressive use of plastic lens mountings that are designed to either by perfect or to destruct when their elements are mounted.

I almost asked if you could have download the files for the G85 instead of GX85. Panny don't make it easy...

Have you tried using a different card? Because really, the fw works for other people, and applying the update is simple - - Get new card and format - Charge battery until full - Download from Panasonic's site only, check file is exactly correct size, put in root directory of card - Unmount card or whatever your os likes - Put card in switched off camera - Switch on - Press play - Follow instructions

Sorry: I've heard genuine stupid people say the same thing at least half a dozen times...

You weren't the person being mis-quoted or ranted at... But if you want to improve the ergonomics of a GX80 for video without the bulk of cage, then grab a 5 pack of sugru. Use 4.5 packs to make a handgrip in the obvious place and the remainder to add a bulge just above the ae lock button. This should protrude several mm above the top plate and be shaped to accept your thumb without hot spotting - I found a convex curve was best. Let this set for 24 hours and tweak with a scalpel: you can now apply a full fist grip with maximum thumb and finger power. ...You want the thumb rest to be very slightly angled so that a thumb squeeze is aligned to the centre of the palm. So the left side of the thumb rest, viewed from the rear, should be very slightly lower.

That's useful, thanks. I think I've got around the need for a cage with sugru. Re rubber bands, I'm using a shoulder strap as a stabilizer and I thinking of running another strap or elastic via a fitting in the tripod thread. But now I think I can see how to convert an SV1000 folding rig into a very decent chest support, so I'll try that. As for being friendly - really, I have been. But when people repeatedly mis-state what you've said, and insist on telling you to do things you've politely declined, being brisk is reasonable.