tweak

I think the top is the new one, with alignment like the 2x and bottom is the old 1.33x. You can still adjust alignment right?

If you want to shoot moving things outside (in the heat) then I wouldn't recommend a6300. GH4 is the most versatile 4K shooter with options, but as others have said G7 may also fill your needs and costs even less. I'm also waiting to see what GH5 has instore.

I've seen specs saying 5 axis with non IS lenses, supposedly the same implementation as Olympus cams with spring and not magnets like Sony. Can't remember where I read that though. Said it should be better than Sony though.

Completely understand that, just the way you stressed it made it seem like it's a common known thing. I thought you may have read some stuff about it and had some sources I could research up on. All good, no problem!

Cheers @richg101! Good info. I think there's also a difference between haze on a front element and Haze on internal elements like @mercer was referring to. Inner element haze being much hard to fix.

The slower FDs really work well.

Exactly, which causes lens separation. The only fix is to pull the lenses apart and glue them back together again, which isn't an easy job. All that being said, I still see no evidence that this is more likely to happen if you buy Canon. If you have some resources to support this I'd be keen to read them and learn more.

I buy a ton of old lenses including anamorphics so I'm pretty used to seeing it. Internal haze is often a sign of lens separation, which is about as likely to happen to any old 35mm lenses from major brands. Biggest cause of Haze is the environment the lens has been in and the treatment it has had (same as fungus).

Seems odd @mercer, I haven't heard anyone else being worried about this, perhaps it was bad luck.

FDs are as prone to haze as any other vintage lens. I've never had one with Haze, nor had a problem with it. FD are as compatible as any other lens, if you really want you can even mod to EF mount. If consistency like mentioned above is of concern FD lenses are very consistent throughout, with all of them matching almost perfectly. I like Nikkor but backwards focus drives me crazy, I also think they are quite expensive to get a full set. OM is great, but they lack half stops and they aren't as well built I don't feel. I like OM and would love a set, but they are also expensive to get properly kitted out with.

In my opinion newFD lenses are the easiest to find and the cheapest to get a full set of. They also have decent enough coatings and half stops in aperture. You can also mod them to stepless if wanted. Getting wides like 17 or 20 is also easy and far cheaper than the other vintage mounts. I have a full set of FD and I'm not disappointed in the slightest, I hardly ever use my EF L glass anymore.

No @buggz.

Is this a forum glitch?

Great thread! Totally agree @Brian Caldwell, I'm so happy I can get such good deals on projection lenses compared to the price of some average but "rare" vintage spherical lenses :D. @BrooklynDan, I also agree with you, I was just pointing out that the idea of constructing a VD as a seperate unit and selling it already existed before hand (all be it in Macro form).

The main thing to consider is that there was almost no demand for a product like this pre indi anamorphic revival. The other thing is that this type of thing did exist before, just in a slightly different form. If you go online you can find many variable diopters for close up macro work, the thing being that these type of attachments were usually made cheaply and thus produced average results. I assume that many people thought that this meant that variable diotpers in front of lenses would be a bad idea just as a generalisation. It took John Barlow (Rectilux) to re-invision the idea and create something of worth, if it wasn't for this I'm sure people would still think it's a bad idea. FM and SLR RF seem like solutions with many compromises, whilst Rectilux seems to deliver what everyone is after, the price difference speaks for itself.

I found a really good option for my S8 that holds it perfectly straight for quick alignment. If you change lenses a lot it makes a huge difference, couldn't go back now.

^Those hoods are great to mod things with . How does your setup go holding the lens straight when changing alignment though? That's my main problem with clamps like this and Vidatlantic, your anamorphot will go to one side a little and not be totally straight...

Agreed, Kowa lenses have a lovely look. What taking lens did you use for the above video?

I'm talking about use with GH4 by the way. I read many similar cases to mine. If anyone does find a decent cheap adapter like this please let me know! I don't want to pay half the price of my camera for an adapter .

Looks exactly like the POS commlite one I just returned. Had two of them so far, both just made sporadic changes to aperture rendering them useless.

If not, get a Rapido clamp. 50dollars.

Paired correctly an S8 isn't really that big (bigger than a bolex for sure, mind you that's also a 1.5x). S8 does focus to infinity and can be used as a focus through if stopped down as well. With diopters you can also get as close as you want. With a VD (RF, SLR) you can mod it to infinity and use it wide open, focus from infinity to about a meter. Not saying your lens isn't good, merely pointing out that there are also other lenses that are sharp wide open. I also have a similar lens to your Canon but made by Kowa.

Even at the time of creation surely it was fairly apparent that more companies would be using mft mount than NX... I think someone messed up pretty badly there.

Isco animex S8 is sharp wide open...

Nice again Seb! Are all the shots with SLR RF attached?