Marcus

Here's the retrofitted cooling from USB-cooler clip for reference (the diy perks is frequently posted in other threads so I assume you've seen it).

Lots of threads about the R5 now, and all of them seem to talk about overheating at some point, but anyhow, I saw the diy perks video the other day, and then I saw another diy-solution where a guy retrofits the cooling from a USB cooler to the back of the camera, which managed to double the time before overheating in 8K. So it got me thinking, what's the easiest, cheapest and non-intrusive possible solution? And I realized, there's a huge amount of cooling solutions for phones/pad since they tend to run hot with games etc. So how about sticking this (or similar) on the back of your R5 when the heat is building up, to quickly cool it down, and then use the time/date hack to reset the timer when needed? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001533895883.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.6e642fe0PPDLeL&algo_pvid=1dd6ee63-9f91-4919-bbfc-f6959be7950f&algo_expid=1dd6ee63-9f91-4919-bbfc-f6959be7950f-0&btsid=0b0a182b16065799936878702ecfbb&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_ Complete with internal chargeable battery, and suction cups for mounting, for 10$. I don't own an R5, yet. Still on the edge, but if anyone has tried something like this, or is willing to try it, that would be just super!

Anyone using the R5 professionally for commercial shoot and/or short film? Initially the overheat issue seemed to render the camera completely unusable, but it's been rather quiet in terms of complaints over overheating issues across the different forums I usually read. And recently in this thread there's been positive user experiences. Did the firmware update actually mitigate the majority of the issues?

This is an entry to the Crash the Superbowl, we shot it in the very last second and didn't even have time for proper color correction so I'll attach some screens from a color correction at the bottom (can't upload a new since it's in the competition). So anyways, as title says, it's shot on the Sony A7s with a Tamron 24-70 2.8, mounted on a DJI Ronin with a Silencer trigger controlled follow focus to enable single operator focus pulling. APS-C mode 50P, SLOG using Kholis PP with a slight adjustment to magenta and yellow compared to those settings, and detail not pulled down as much. ISO was between 8000-10000 for the entire shoot which helped out tremendously since we had no time to be setting up a bunch of lights in this otherwise moody restaurant. All we used was two 1000 W HMIs with soft boxes to compensate the light coming from the large windows. So here it is, please comment and criticise. https://crashthesuperbowl.doritos.com/gallery/submission/5211?share=true%3Fshare%3Dtrue And here's the screens from the new color correction (graded with film convert) '> '> '> '> '> '> '>

Maybe this is stupid, but I have to ask. When in APS-C mode, the pixel readout is comparable to 2.7K, and then upscaled to 4K, or downscaled to 1080 depending on which mode you record right? So if you're looking for the least amount of rolling shutter, but still want the fullframe look, would it be possible to put a speed booster on this camera, run it in aps-c, and get an equivalent almost full frame look, only in 2.7K instead of 4K as read out?