kidzrevil

I wouldn't get an gx85 just for family use. Why not get like a SONY RX10 ? I have the G85 by the way.

Dont worry about. Half the people screaming about video vs organic look don't know what they mean by it neither lollllll ! Find an aesthetic you like and work on making it better

I like the old nikkor ais lenses with speedbooster. They look so organic on the panny sensor . Very detailed without the oversharpened look Its Cinelike D at default settings except -3 sharpness (terrible idea -5 works best) and -5 NR. I downscaled to 444 10bit 1080p & applied the Visioncolor Impulz LUT in the conversion process using Convert V4. The 1080p 10bit Cineon LOG files graded beautifully

not the gx85 but same sensor

looks like an xc10 to me....I got shallow DOF with it at the long end or at its closest focusing distance.

I like nikkor ais lenses with it

the xc10 has excellent motion cadence but don't expect it to win any awards for sharpness in 4k. if you downscale it to 1080p you should have nothing to worry about. the gh5 is an exciting camera for sure. Im wondering whether I should hold out for the summer firmware update and just use my Panny G80 until then. Panasonic has made crazy improvements to their sensors since I first shot with the gh4 i can only imagine what the gh5 is capable of

@Matt Kieley that looks hella cool man, love this look

I don't like the look at all but color is subjective anyway. Maybe its the recommended in camera settings but I much rather use visioncolor impulz until this pro color lut gets an update to remove the aggressive red hue

Is there an improvement in image quality when using 16-255 vs 0-255 ?

this is exactly why I don't care for this stuff. DXOmark has too many variables as to what qualifies a camera as a good one and none of it translates to real world performance and more importantly : aesthetic.

That look from this lens is sooo dope ! I really slept on the Rokinon primes ??

lol how about you give cinelike v a try ? seems to be a good alternative to standard ! I keep reading that cinelike d gives a more usable dynamic range than v-log so that has been my focus @jonpais

standard looks amazing with only noise reduction and sharpening turned down

standard is looking damn good straight out of the camera wow

I consistently found overexposing made color clip (especially red) in very weird ways. Setting the auto exposure to -1 or -2/3 a stop gave great results which is in accordance with Panasonic's documentation on the curve. I think ETTR works best with the non cine gamma curves since they are designed with a steeper curve

@mercer I ended up getting a 35mm f1.4 ais, 50mm f1.8 ais pancake,28mm f2.8 ais and a 85mm f2 ais. I wanna get the 55mm f1.2. Im eventually going to trade up the gh5 after the summer firmware update. For now that gives me enough time to learn the cine d and cine v curves

its somewhere in the middle between the xc10 an the NX1 for me. It is sharp without being oversharpened like the GH4. Not as much resolution as the NX1 but this isn't a bad thing, the image looks more organic than the nx1. Also it doesn't give you crazy artifacts due to NR above ISO 500 like the xc10 ! Overall I like it, it definitely looks better with nikkor glass due to the speedbooster. The speedbooster adds extra character to this glass I can't quite explain it but long story short I love the g85

yeah these new wave of lumix cameras are amazing ! The G85 is giving me even better images than what I got in my gh4. Have you seen the gh5 footage ?

the Noam Kroll settings work pretty well,his images always look so clean ! im playing with saturation as well, I think the ugliness in cine d comes from desaturating the color too much. My guess is that Panasonic designed the curve to pack in as much tonality and saturation as possible over the 8bit color space. It makes sense that they designed it to be shot underexposed as well hence the ugliness in the highlights when the image is undersaturated and exposed too brightly. Panasonic cameras lose saturation in the brighter areas of the image quickly so be careful with your saturation settings & exposure also looking at the cinelike v gamma curve on the panasonic white papers it has the superior highlight rolloff compared to their other profiles. A tweaked cinelike v profile sounds to be ideal when you put things like noise and compression into perspective

So I've been reading old panasonic white papers trying to figure out their Cinelike D and Cinelike V curve. Cinelike D always reminded me of SONY's cinegamma so I had to experiment with it. Anyway according to the panasonic white paper's you must underexpose by 1/2 a stop to expose the curve correctly. This makes sense cause overexposure with cinelike d looks particularly horrible. With all settings at defaults with the exception of -5 NR and -5 sharpness I got spectacular results underexposing cinelike D by 1 to 2/3 of a stop ! I am not planning to run a bunch of tests so I am sticking with the Cine gamma curves. 200-800 ISO is ideal for the G85 sensor with a slight dip in DR above 400. I keep my NR to -5 as the NR can be really aggressive above 800 iso.. My next two tests will be for in camera sharpness and saturation on both cine profiles. I notice at 0 saturation with Cinelike D the image looks hella saturated but the color rarely clips. The saturation was built specifically for this gamma curve. Panasonic obviously knew what they were doing when they made the cine gamma and the only thing that should be tampered with is the in camera sharpness. I think we are over thinking these settings....

I prefer standard with +3 to +5 contrast over the natural picture style. I've been testing the portrait picture style and it seems to be the most promising of the available styles with its optimized rendering of skin tones. three things I need to figure out : 1) When NR kicks in & reduces detail (my guess is at 1600) 2) the maximum amount of NR to use at 800 iso and below 3) the maximum amount of in camera sharpening that can be applied before artifacting like halo'ing and aggravated noise start to appear

Negative contrast destroys midtones while + contrast enhances it. Use the highlight & shadow curve to adjust shadows instead of the contrast slider

Almost any lens shot at those apertures will have those artifacts. I like the aesthetic but usually by f2 - f2.8 on most super fast lenses sharpens the image up and those artifacts tend to dissapear

No I used a nikkor 35mm ais with a soeedbooster xl attached. Worked wonderfully imo a little purple fringing never scared a client away from me ?? To get these color straight out the camera I used vivid profile with +5 contrast, 0 saturation and +2 shadows -5 highlights. Works very well if you underexpose by 1/3-2/3 a stop (usually slightly below 100 zebras appear in the image). Next im going to work on better saturation, I'll probably knock it down -2 cause shooting flat & desaturated on a Panasonic camera is a recipe for disaster. Its best to get most of the look done in camera