kidzrevil

I tried it before and didn't know how to use it, i'll give it another shot

https://vimeo.com/56587479

nah when you add noise with the noise plugin you use 0.4 for neat video luminance noise reduction should be between 40-60%

I'm sure there has been plenty of threads about this (I can't seem to find them) but I am currently looking for an application that can take h.265 files and convert them to 10bit 4444 prores or cineform files. Anyone know of any good ones ?

same, I am interested in the raw workflow from the 5d. I am keeping my nx1 but it makes no sense to invest in anything Samsung (nx mount) right now. A Nikon lens can be used on any system and I think the sharpness from their native lenses is negligible. Hell I just invested in a ton of diffusion filters to actually combat the compression artifacts created from the high level of sharpness this camera produces lol. 5D with some nikkor lenses sounds like a better look to me

shit if you want it I can tell him. I was going to either get a sigma 18-35 or nikkor 20mm f2.8 instead of that lens

how old ? It should be labelled cr,cy,cb for the chroma channels

a guy contacted me on instagram said he wanted $800 for it. For some reason I don't think it's worth it...well atleast in comparison to what I already have

that's the issue. You should perform noise reduction with any camera before grading. Neat video works great, it will reduce noise and create "new" pixels. Apply the noise plugin with chromatic noise at something like 0.4 and then start grading.

do you use noise reduction before you start your grade ?

gamma dr at default settings with -10 sharpness. I am working on something that looks good straight out of camera but gamma dr looks the best so far. You can slightly underexpose and get a smooth roll off in the highlights

Shot from the super takumar 50mm f1.4 and 85mm f1.9 camera : samsung nx1

i only use optical diffusion. No longer using pro mists on my nx1 because the debayering/sharpening cuts right through it. The tiffen black diffusion fx is what im using right now because it is an "invisible" type diffusion. I agree you need different grades of it but I bought 5's and 3's because the edge enhancement of the nx1 is way too strong. I can always add sharpening and contrast in post so I prefer the "invisible" type diffusion on the tiffen on the camera. Issue is making sure things are in focus at wife apertures but at f4-8 it is a dream, it looks organic ! I did some tests with it today on my nikkor with master pedestal jacked all the way up with the gamma c profile. i chose gamma c because it seems to slam everything to the left of the histogram at its default settings. Hopefully this combination truly combats the compression artifacts with the combined raised pedestal & diffusion

I haven't seen it in a 70mm capable theatre but WOW ! There is something magical about this 70mm film, it looks "full" for a lack of a better word where as footage from digital sensor like our dslr's look thin in comparison. I really dont know how to describe it but the look was totally organic. Of course I know it had to have gone through some type of digital alteration with color grading etc. but man it looked good. Looking out the window in the indoor scenes when the sun was setting just the color and dynamic range alone showed me how inferior digital is in comparison to film. For digital to catch up I think emphasis needs to be put on dynamic range and color science instead of just resolution. Once again an amazing piece of work by Tarantino

bro I swear you're a mind reader ! Im interested in the hacked 5d mark 3. I was gonna get an a7sii but hey i already have an 8bit 4k camera ! I can already see the magic in A hacked 5d mark 3 with visioncolor's visionlog profile. Im already pricing out the stuff I need for it like Loupe's and what not

dope man ! Im looking for a good wide angle for my m42 kit. So far the m42 lenses look the closest to "film" on the nx1. I have a mir 37mm that has this soft look to it that totally counters the nx1 sharpness. A smooth organic finish to the footage

yellowed super tak 50 f1.4 super tak 85 f1.9 the yellowing...woah. Skintones and leaves look awesome

Playing around with gamma c in conjunction with some m42 lenses today and getting amazing results

its different for video because of the compression and the bits assigned to each stop of light (bitrate). It's important to nail exposure and saturation in camera...at least for me it is. Some people shoot super flat and underexpose only to push and pull the image like crazy in post. You lose color fidelity and introduce artifacts like Ebrahim mentioned. If you can overexpose without sacrificing important highlight details the camera compression will assign more bits to the important detail like midtones which is what we want. In raw especially in stills you can over expose about 2 stops and darken and it looks amazing but im assuming you will be shooting on a compressed format which doesn't allow you that privilege

agree on the batteries. I need to hurry up and buy the OEM batteries. I just got a fotasy m42 adapter that works great, I can live with the whole focusing past infinity thing. I am going to to get a C/Y Adapter just in case I buy some zeiss lenses

Im playing with the standard profile with master pedestal +15. The next one i'll try is gamma c. Both profiles have saturation turned down with no contrast adjustment. Gamma DR is great but im looking for an alternative to get close to a straight out of camera look with profiles not intended for grading. I have a theory that h.265 is so compressed that ideally you want to get even closer to the final look than h.264 . I was going to use my nikkor with a tiffen diffusion filter because another thing I need to tackle is the in camera sharpening but i'll save that for another test. One thing at a time you know ? For now im using some m42 lenses seeing if that gives me more of a "film" look. My nikkors and canon fd L have more of a modern feel

this makes a lot of sense now that I think about it ! When the gamma c and dr curves for the nx1 we announced the samsung documentation states : "Two Gamma modes now provided for more control of aesthetic look of footage. Both gamma modes are designed for a more cinematic look. C Gamma mode is a preset logarithmic color setting designed to deliver higher overall contrast.D Gamma is a preset logarithmic color setting designed to capture a wider tonal range for increased dynamic range."Your theory on ettr seems about right. On the nx1 i wont say that I am gaining dr but shadows on this camera has a habit of looking clipped but when you take the files into post production you will see there were alot of detail hidden in the shadows. When I raise the pedestal those details are no longer swamped in shadows. I will combine this with your ettr theory and expose as far to the right as possible without clipping the important highlights such as in the skin tone regions. I am using a custom picture profile by the way. My only adjustments have been to lower in camera sharpening and slightly reduce saturation. I have made no adjustments to contrast since I am not aiming to create a "flat" profile, I am aiming to merely mimic the technicolor cinestyle theory of moving the shadow bits towards the 16-255 range in the available 0-255 luma to counter the compression artifacts in the shadows

ooohhh I definitely have to look into that. I thought log was short for logarithmic. I know cameras like the NX1 shoot a linear rec.709 profile which is supposed to be way different in terms of dynamic range and how the bits are assigned to each stop of encoded dynamic range. http://www.qvolabs.com/Digital_Images_ColorSpace_Log_vs_Linear.html anyway so far so good. i seem to be recording more of the visible dynamic range by raising the pedestal. Nothing is clipped on either side of the histogram

Experimenting today. Super Takumar 50mm f1.4

patiently waiting for the price to dive