dwijip

Thank you for your helpful info, these look very good indeed. Didn't know they made these! Hello JaeM I was actually wondering about that myself when I found big diopters on the net but just thought I would use them with some kind of adapter rather than cut them. The original poster here suggests that if you use big diopters (bigger than your thread size) you'll get less distortion and unwanted aberration etc that you would get in the corner of the images from smaller diopters. But I guess it depends on your preference. But back to the cutting, here's what I came across. Its a completely different application of the glass but have a look anyway. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1888757 Haven't heard of any camera shops who cut glass for you but its normal practice in the optometry business. Like cutting the lens from your old glasses to fit new frames etc. This doesn't seem to change the power (unless you mean cutting the glass face) Hope this was of some help for your question, if any. And nice to see a fellow kiwi here btw lol.

Although the focus peaking feature on the gh4 and magic lantern should help you much more even when you're focusing just with the camera LCD.

Hey Izhar I had the same concern and was on a similar budget. After some research on youtube / vimeo and some forums I concluded to buy this http://www.musthd.com/products/7-inch-musthd-1280800-video-assist-field-monitor-with-hdmi-input-output-focus-assist-false-color-77.html Its on its way to me now

Oh right, you would do that if you were considering cropping while shooting. So far I've found plenty of +1 single elements but I don't think I've seen any +1 achromatics, And I can't find any material on the quality of the SLR magic diopters? Anyone have experience with them?

First of all, thank you so much for your kind answer to my newb question. Only part I didn't quite get was this " One convenient thing about anamorphics is that even though they have poor close focusing, their wide frame means you will likely be further back from your subject for almost everything" Did you mean that the wide framing would want you to go further back from your subject to include more of the scene? Or did you mean that the anamorphic element would make your framing look wider than normal? Sorry for the newbness again lol. In terms of other things you've kindly put down, I've also come to the same conclusion after searching on the web. I think I asked these questions due to the fact that I live in a place that is quite detached from the anamorphic hype and couldn't get any useful advice. And also I needed a 72mm or bigger achromatic diopter for my lens but couldn't find any that existed other than the tokina. Ones that seem to fit these criteria always seemed too strong. +2 or higher. I think 1. I will try singlets for starters 2. Maybe try to use a smaller achromat in front of my lens using a step-down, and hope that I don't vignette heavily 3. Save up and try for the SLR magic diopter option. They seem to be the only other option to the tokina in my case. I will try some of these options, if not all, and report back.

Hi guys I'm a newbie into the whole diopter thing and I'm desperately trying to find one for my isco anamorphic lens. There isn't seem to be that many around these days. During my brave exploits on the jungle of Ebay, I found this http://www.ebay.com/itm/111519123906?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT What do you think? It doesn't seem to be a double element by the look of it, although the seller seems to be saying that it will be good for an anamorphic lens. And because I can't afford the Tokina 0.4, let a lone find one, I was considering the Canon 500d which has 2diopter strength. Would this be usable for normal portraits etc? Or would it be only suitable for macro use? I'm not sure if anyone is keeping up with this thread now days but would really appreciate some guidance on the matter.