DBounce

It’s the same color science in videos as in stills. It’s our job to create those great videos. My bad... Not mocking... being English sarcasm runs deep with me. Peace!

Given the choice between IBIS, that cannot be turned off and lock the sensor in place vs no IBIS... I choose no IBIS. Am I the only one that feels this way? Has anyone noticed how virtually all the footage from the P4k seems a bit brownish?

You're wrong! True... weather-sealing, magnesium build, tilt screen, better slow-mo, excellent color science, battery grip that extends life out to the two hour region and being a excellent stills camera is of no value to us manual shooters. Meanwhile back in the real-world...

No... that may be the answer. Do we have a real manual yet? Not just a quick start guide?

Strangely enough this was pretty much exactly what I did the first time. But after selecting a memory location it would do nothing after I selected the folder icon to choose a lut. It only allowed me to do this while playing back a recorded video. After that it worked as expected. I have two Ninja V’s so it will be interesting to see if this holds true for the other unit also.

Fujifilm X-T3 wins it! A very special little camera. Great at both stills and video... frankly it's a bargain.

Seems I could only add them from the playback monitor. But once I added on they all were accessible.

Yeah, it would be just lovely if Atomos could actually take a little time to put together a manual for the Ninja V.

So how do you load luts onto this thing? I assumed that you merely copy the 1 .cube files to the Atomos SSD, 2. load the drive into the Ninja V and then 3. go into the luts menu, select on of the luts memory slots 4. select the folder icon and then pick the lut you wish to load into the selected memory slot. However, my file icon is grayed out, and the ninja says "No Luts". Am I missing something?

The F2 lenses are good lenses... fast focusing and quiet. For quality vs price Sony and Panasonic have nothing that can match them. Now if price is no object I can highly recommend the MKX series... lovely glass.

Those rumored specs are crazy... can’t wait.

So rumor has it that the upcoming Panasonic S1R will be able to output raw. Additionally, the camera will sport a 168MP sensor. This is shaping up to be one to watch.

That monitor does not tilt... so unless you only shoot at eye level? I think low light is on par with the GH5S... but no better. And having said that, no better than the X-T3. And while it’s a video camera as a bonus... oh wait... it’s ONLY a video camera. Yes it does 4K frame grabs but those a clearly only for continuity.

According to Cinema5d the X-T3 is 13-12.5 stops of Dynamic Range. I think most people are exposing the footage incorrectly... myself included. Apparently, you really need to protect the highlights as the shadows are easy to recover.

Well Canon really isn't taking FF mirrorless seriously. The EOS R is clearly a halfhearted effort to silence the advocates of mirrorless. I'll reserver judgement of the Z6 until I see footage. But the Z7 did not impress me... my opinion only.

So I just spoke to the guys over at Tilta, and they told me that the Motors reset to 50% on bootup. After checking my motors this is indeed the case. They advised me that the engineers are aware of the problem and will address it in the next firmware update. Also, after retesting with the lowered setting I believe it is Ok to use with most lenses. Keep in mind, if you are only going by the reading on the fiz unit you may think the motors are set to the lower setting. However, this may not be the case. You need to check the setting on the actual motor... for now anyway.

I think for a dslr setup, the PD might have its place. But for serious work the Tilta might get the nod. @Alt Shoo I got the two motor setup. You can add a third for about $300. Honestly, once you understand the basics of how to set it up, you are golden. It really isn't that complicated. There are some decent video out there with detailed information to get you up and running fast.

How is the torque on the PD? Is it ok for photo lenses? What if you need to drive heavy PL lenses? For functionality the Tilta is great. Having everything built into the handles is amazing. The controls are responsive while feeling good in hand. The working experience is perhaps one of the best.

It really depends on the lenses you are driving. I do not own any lenses that really require high torque. I you do this might be beneficial. Let me give you an example: When I first got the Nucleus M I used it with some adapted photo lenses. By default the motors were set to auto calibrate (this setting is now changed to default to manual calibration in the new firmware). When the motor turned on it spun the lens past the hard-stop and kept spinning. Thankfully, the lens gear gave way and just spun around the lens, sparing the lens from damage. Now you are probably picturing some simple plastic lens gear... Not so. I was using Zeiss lens gears (pictured below)... which are super sturdy, all metal construction and about as high a quality a lens gear as one can buy. These things where securely attached to the lenses. Yet the motor effortlessly broke them free and kept spinning. I almost $h!t when this happened. This happened with the lowest possible setting for the Nucleus M. So here is the takeaway... Manually calibrate for most lenses. If you are driving 20 lbs anamorphic zooms, maybe it's ok to auto calibrate. But for most lenses, I would manually calibrate. Tilta can lower the torque with a new firmware update. And indeed they did... that's why you can select 30%. But even at the lowest torque setting, these motors are powerful enough so that if you hold the motor gear in your grip, it will easily break free from your grasp. It needs to be about 3-4% of its current torque. That way when it hits that hard-stop it will not break free of the rig so that it can spin freely. If you manually calibrate none of this is a problem. Also manual calibration is pretty quick. If you plan to one day upgrade to some heavy duty lenses, then these motors will be ready for the task. Now the good. The Tilta system is a great setup. It is easily one of the highest quality pieces of gear I own. Well made, built to "Pro" specs. It works wonderfully and makes pulling focus a breeze. Overall, it's up there with the best, and at a bargain price. If you are on the fence, there is no need to be. It's really that good. I only add the cautionary statement so as to let everyone know that this is pro gear, meant to drive some heavy duty lenses. If your lens is an adapted photo lens, or something remotely portable, you might prefer to manually calibrate.

Sony will NOT give us anything like the X-T3. They will protect their FS lineup. And colors... colors... colors. They will not be the equal of the Fuji or Canon. Although, by all means Sony... prove me wrong and I will gladly add another α camera to my collection. Not holding my breath though. Perhaps they can add some filters to match the film emulations that Fuji has? But maybe take it one step further... Instant Blockbuster, Micheal Bay Mode, Spielberg setting?

I have the Tilta Nucleus M. It's a mighty system. The only complaint I have of Tilta... and this will sound strange, is that they would allow more granular control of the torque of the motors. Currently the lowest setting is 30% torque. If this number were half it would still be high enough for a maximum setting. I honestly believe this system would be fine with only 10% of its current power, and high, med and low setting within that 10%. But that said, if this setup cannot drive your lens, you might be SOL.

The MKX lenses have some real magic. I've only shot a little bit with 18-55... but I'm loving it. I have shot other manual lenses for stills, and largely preferred shooting with AF lenses. But for video, these Fujinon lenses are very special. I checked out the Canon 18-80 while at B&H in NYC. Honestly, it feels a bit lackluster to me. The image is too generic. Perhaps it is because it's fairly slow at f4.4. Of maybe something else that I am missing. I just know the imagery I was seeing from it did not inspire me to want to go that route. Or maybe more to the point, it was a bit of a let down going from the 24-70 f2.8 and 70-200 f2.8... to the 18-80 f4.4. I might have just been setting myself up with higher expectations.

Just checked the settings... Yes sharpening was set to zero. Thought I had changed that to -4, but I guess it go changed back with all my fiddling about with various settings. I had a freak out moment when I first attached the MKX lens. I was unable to record any video. Turns out I had forgotten to turn back on internal recording ?Anyway, I am confident given the option to use the X-T3 vs the P4k, the former would be a solid choice. Add stills capability into the mix and you will never look back. Remember the Fuji is using a APSC/S35 sensor. This is today and has been for the past many years, the industry standard format for cinema. That a big component when trying to get that cinema look. I'll go one better... so sure am I that this camera is the way forward, that I order a second body... that should arrive today? I also intend to add the MKX50-135. I held off on ordering it as I want to spend some time getting to know the MKX18-55 T2.9. I have not shot a whole lot of manual lenses in video. My plan is later to try out the SLR Magic Anamorphot 65, which was specifically designed to work with MKX lenses. But that may be dependent on seeing more footage from the adapter. I don't like IBIS. At least not any implementation I have seen to date. My preferred method is to use a gimbal, slider, tripod or crane.

A quick play with the MKX18-55mm. Was just hand holding. This is all shot at 3200 ISO with -4 noise reduction in Eterna. Recorded internally.

Good tip... we should all do this. If you want it done right, I think Fuji has the know how to make it look pretty dam near identical to their real film stocks. I really think this is an area that is missed by virtually every other manufacturer.