Ty Harper

@Kisaha sorry to bug but you have spoken fairly highly about the Audix SCX1-HC. I have the opportunity to pick up the micro version of that model, the M1250BHC for a pretty good price used, about $175US. I would be using it primarily for indoor talking head interviews along with a Rode NTG3. I'm assuming the biggest issue will be getting it mounted properly on a stand or with a boom pole that's close enough to the talent for it to actually be effective. But wondering if there are any other issues I'm not considering (like does handling noise increase the smaller the mic is? etc) and basically whether this unit is even a worthwhile investment when weighing the price with what I'll be using it for? Thx...

Anybody with experience/opinions on the Audix M1250BHC ? Also a hyper but unlike the SCX1-HC I have yet to see any serious discussions about the pros/cons of this particular model.

I know the Sekonic c800, c700 (etc) are the pro standard, with few performance complaints. I've also seen tons of threads with people automatically dismissing app based options like the Lumu light and illuminati im150. I'm wondering if anyone has actual real world repeatable experience with the Lumu or illuminati, and can speak to the efficacy of either of these two color measuring options, especially considering that they're a fraction of the price of the Sekonic stuff. Thx.

Just to clarify, there is no bottleneck right now... I'm just looking for ways to better the computer's performance on DRS15/16 with a max budget of $800US. What I was wondering is whether spending $400 on another 1080TI MINI would be a fair investment or would my cpu undermine any performance gains I might get from the purchase... either way, I think phrasing my question as what you and others might spend $800US if they were looking to better the performance of this Hackintosh, is a better way of looking at it, apologies for the confusion, lol...

ASUS PB278Q (2K)

I guess the more pointed question would be... if people had the Hackintosh build I have and $400-$800US they were willing to spend to make their DRS15 or 16 editing/coloring, etc experience better... what would they spend it on?

Thanks for the insight. I know my cpu will be a potential bottleneck eventually but I'm not comouter tech savy enough to know what that breaking point would be (at 2 1080TIs, 3?). I'll prob never invedt in a Hackintosh again... I'm also not interested in shelling out $2K for something newer.... but $400-$800 on an extra gpu, another SSD.... seems feasible....

I do basic editing/color grading and strictly use Resolve... was using the free one mostly but was gna purchase the studio version, which I hear is the one that utilizes multiple gpu's... which is partly why I was wondering whether adding another 1080ti mini would help performance....

Hey all, I've got the following Hackintosh specs: Z97X-UD5H i7 4790K GTX 1080TI (MINI) (11GB) 32GB RAM 1TB SSD (macosx) 500 SSD (scratch, etc) 12TB EXTERNAL DR15 studio HIGH SIERRA ASUS PB278Q (2K) I'm a hobbyist working predominantly with 1080 Raw ML footage and 4K via a Canon 1DC. I know my desktop setup is getting old in the tooth and that this is essentially the end of the road for future Nvidia/MAC combos. My question is whether spending an extra $450 US to add another GTX 1080TI MINI (used) or something like a GTX TITAN would be worth it performance-wise? Also, would upgrading to DR16 studio make sense as well? Thanks in advance!

Thanks a lot. I knew I'd seen a solution somewhere but forgot what it was called. I see that Sescom's got a similar blocker for sale at a much cheaper price point. Does anyone know what the difference between the two might be? https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/889753-REG/sescom_ses_il_ppb_xlr_inline_phantom.html

@IronFilm I've seen a few comments on forums from people who accidentally fried their F4 after mistakenly running phantom power into the outs. Any safety devices that can be inserted into the out to ensure a costly mistake like that never happens?

Wait, doesn't metabones have one, or one coming out soon?

Anybody know whether that exh-8 capsule will work on the F4/8 series?

Yes I have, and thanks for the insight!

@IronFilm, slightly off topic, although mentioned in this thread... I recall you saying somewhere that the 32-bit float option was a bit overrated. I was toying with the idea of upgrading from my Zoom F4 to a mixpre-6 for the slightly better analog limiters, but then I was thinking that a mixpre-6 II might be the final destination purchase for a primarily audio doc producer like myself whose needs are already well covered by a 4 xlr in recorder, but can see the value of 32-bit float in situations when you're capturing a really loud concert or a passionate discussion with multiple talking heads. Point is, if you were 90% satisfied with the F4 but willing to make one final upgrade on your primary audio recorder (though not a rush to upgrade either) --- would you upgrade to a used mixpre-6 or hold out for the mixpre-6 II? And thanks for all the audio advice you offer us all on these forums!

Oh ok didn't realize they could be switched out, thx!

https://www.amazon.com/Harchee-Chandelier-Acrylic-Ceiling-Adjustable/dp/B07CFX2MFS Saw one at a friends apartment the other day and really loved the way it lit the people sitting at their table, which was also round... and seemed to be the perfect light for a roundtable series I've always wanted to produce. But the one at the link has no light/color quality specs --- so wondering if anyone has experience using this one or variations of this type of fixture that they could recommend? Also, all the eps for this series would be shot at one person's house, so the fixture would likely permanently replace the current light hanging over their dining table.

Thx, and not freaking out at all, just wanted to be sure there weren't any known issues with battery discharge... thx again tho!

@IronFilm or anyone else on this thread have any idea what (if any) type of battery drain the Zoom F4 has while not in use? Was thinking of leaving my Eneloops in the machine for the time being, but worried I might come back in a month or two to use it and find that they've lost a lot of juice. Not really a big deal if I can't, just wondering if anyone knows the answer... thx in advance!

I think we can definitely agree that every response in this thread speaks volumes to the type of values we each hold. And for the record, I think his art is interesting --- I just don't think it's even remotely interesting enough to justify his approach. I'm sure there are other ways he can make/push the boundaries of his art without getting in people's faces.

Yes I do, I just have no time for artists/people who only want to engage in complexity and care and creativity when it revolves around the pursuit of the art in and of itself, but dismiss those same things when it comes to respecting their subject(s). Again, a great artist, imho, is one who can find a way to achieve both things.

He's totally free to push the limits of people's personal boundaries within public spaces for the sake of his art. By the same token he better be totally ok with the potential repercussions of his actions. Matter of fact, I'm sure he instinctively picks his subjects/victims based on how much of an immediate threat they might pose to him, which speaks to the predatory nature of his behavior... and that's regardless of whether his end goal is art, creepy kicks, or both. But to me the scarier people are those who can't just acknowledge that all these things are equally legitimate factors worth acknowledging when deciding whether what he is doing is actually worth it, for the sake of art... or whether there might actually be a way for him to do his art, while respecting the boundaries of his subjects (what, too hard of a proposition to wrap his boundary-pushing artist head around?). Personally I have way more respect for the artist that cares about that part as much as they do their precious art.

+1 for tungsten, unless you book alot of time sensitive gigs that require you to pack up and leave fairly quickly, which is something that can be easily forgotten/overlooked if you're not used to working with fixtures that need time to cool down after they've been used.

I actually know nothing about any of that stuff, which is why I was asking...

Looks like it only allows SSD's up to 1TB in size (or maybe I'm misunderstanding the specs) while the Nexto allows for 4TB SSDs and technically can take drives up to 32TB in size, which seems like a much better long term investment.