DigitalEd

​Its fixed with the new firmware and makes focusing faster then ever. I did not try they yesterday i should of i tested it a lot today. The new Manual focus on and Manual focus off feature in the new firmware seems to fix the lens focus shifting problem. In place of Manual focusing on something you can use the auto focus on to get focus then push the button to set it to Manual Focus on and the lens is locked at that focus area. As much as i tried i could not get it to shift when done like this it seems to hold power to the lens holding the focus in.. Great to see. So you never turn off the auto focus on the lens it now locks the focus for you like you are in manual focus. But if you are in manual focus on and you want to manually change the focus you can do that to so if you want to slowly focus on another item by hand you can.. This gives you the best of both. Use the auto focus on for a quick auto focus then lock it in...Very good Samsung I will be keeping my 16x50 after all.

​So why would you even be shooting things that are so over exposed when you could shoot then right using the right tools to get the better shot. That shot into the sun needs a ND filter for any camera you would use no matter what camera it is to get the exposure right for Video.. (Every half-decent camera should be able to handle this) this is not true how can any camera handle F32 or better at 50 shutter speed its way over exposed. Can you look right into the sun with you eyes wide open and handle it at F32 or higher it would damage your eyes in a shot amount of time. You can not expect a camera or anything to handle things beyond its limitations. If its F32 in the bright sun then the camera needs to be set to F32 to get a image that is right anything short of that is over exposing the camera and image. Or use a ND filter and knock it down to F4 or so to get a better image. You have to understand how F Stops work or this will make not sense to you. The camera uses a mix of F stop, Shutter speed and ISO to expose the image right any of the 3 being set wrong will result in a image not exposed right you dont want to even shoot when the camera is not exposed right or with in a range of the exposure. Or you get the over exposed into the sun image. Not sure what the image flicker is but the image is way over exposed amazing the camera did what it did being that far over exposed. You can expose part of a image like you are shooting a person talking and they are back lit you can expose the camera video to make the person talking be brighter and over expose the background on purpose to make the person talking pop out better so they are not so dark looking - photographers do that all the time to get shots it works the same way for video. I shot on the beach every day shooting photography for many years all summer i had to deal with the super bright sun on every session. But with photography we can raise our shutter speed very high to knock down the sun to a manageable level when not using flash. With video you can not do that or you run into shutter speed problems making the video look strobe effect so you need to use a ND filter to get that kind of bright sunlight shot.

Shooting photography if you shot that shot into the sun you would have your shutter speed super high you can not do that with video so you need to use a ND filter Here are some videos on why you need a ND filters out in the sun.

Would that into the sun shot not have something to do with the fact that it is way over exposed for that much light coming into the camera. That must of been around F32 or beyond that if shooting video at around 50 shutter speed with no ND filter on the camera. Would this not be user error expecting a shot like the to be handled well with no ND filter pushing any camera past its F stop range for the bright sun area ?. It dose say in the Manual not to point the camera into the sun. I think any camera you buy says that in the manual for good reason. So if you do what they tell you not to do what can you expect. The only way to get that shot right is with a ND filter on the lens to knock the F Stop down to a manageable range.

Dont count on it... I i am seeing my 16/50 drift out of focus very easy so much so i may not use a Samsung lens when shooting video in any Manual focus setting. Seems to be that fly by wire focus system they use for the lens it drifts very easy. The 45mm is useless for manual focus it drifts out so fast. Get some adapters and cheep prime lens and one good 2.8 zoom from Nikon to use on it. The 16x50 is still a great lens for photography. Unless if this new feature will hold the focus in place for you forcing the lens to lock that focus in and not let it drift then that would be a good plus - i need to test that.

Ok here is some of the 69 gigs i shot today i converted a few clips to make this. It has color grading i added might be a little to bright on a few clips. As the clouds moved the exposure changed every few seconds at times..

I still do not think it had a exposure problem. All the normal stuff that i shot i never had a problem it only bloomed out doing testing pushing it into such bright light i would never shoot anything like that in reality.

I just shot 69 gigs out side today with my NX1 at a out door event in very bright sunlight, I used a tripod and hand held on a shoulder rig i built and i am still not seeing the problems. I did a lot of panning and moving up and down and zooming and with a with a 300 MM F4 lens. I shot lots of pan from dark to brighter areas with no problem looking back at the footage. I have to buy another HD before i can convert it all to edit. Problems i did see are the Samsung 16x50 2.8 lens when used in Manuel focus all i did today just like the Samsung 45 mm drifts out of focus all the time you can point to the subject get focus and move the camera and do a pan back to the subject and i would say 30 % of the time the Samsung lens will be out of focus as you pan back it slips out. Using my Nikon mount lens this never happens.. I shot all day in Gamma C with it set to -5 saturation and -5 sharpening. Only other problem i had was the wind vibrating my tripod at times when using my mounted 300 mm Shots. I will convert a clip or two to show i have some space left just not much. It will take me a week to edit all this into something.

Some people are getting it here https://www.wetransfer.com/downloads/5b787d754d8cbf4cf9cb67bf0762ddf820150116150450/5fef97 I got it last night same place a lot of people did it was posted on facebook with links and a few other sites but then Samsung pulled it down today it looks like. I have it and it works but the new gamma logs do not seem to do anything they are the same i have shot testing with all of them on the same area and you can not see any different from one to the next maybe that is why they pulled it down i hope so.

I did it last night after many others posted it they say say it still works if you do it by wifi from your camera right from Samsung... I am loading in a video now showing many of the different settings of the DR, Focus speed and a few other things. I want to see what setting i want to shoot in - it has so many now..

https://www.wetransfer.com/downloads/5b787d754d8cbf4cf9cb67bf0762ddf820150116150450/5fef97 You have to load it in yourself - rename the file to nx1.bin and copy it to the sd card then do the in camera Update.

I have the new firmware loaded in now for what i tested last night i need to test more but i do think it is controlled better now then before but if its to bright past the camera setting it still blooms as it should maybe a little less now. Just dont shoot things that are way over exposed then you should not see not have any problems. The new color settings look nice from what little i tested last night. I really want to test the New HD Pro and see how that is to and set different black levels and see what they do now. You can now set the back turn dial to control your audio levels. I like that but i was using that dial for setting my ISO so i need to come up with a new custom button for ISO

I had something like that for the first time the other night but mine showed thick bands of the dark lines was very strange. What i found was the battery was super low almost dead and out of power so after putting in another battery it was all gone shooting the same thing. Have you tried a good charged battery and test it?

I just shot another test one with the last firmware and then the same test with the new firmware. It looks a little better it seems to be controlling the over brightness better now but if you go to super bright it still blooms as its to much but maybe now its not as much as it did. Will have to test more and use the new settings as well, I one weird thing focus peaking seems to just turn on at times when panning with out touching the lens happened a few times maybe i have something set wrong.

Steve here is the candle test... If the camera had a real exposure shift problem i would think we would see the shift here to but it shows no shifting at all it is working as it should be. People are showing shift videos pointing to a exposure that is out of the range of what they have the camera set to so you will see some effect but its not the cameras fault if you shoot something in Manuel and then point the camera at something that is exposed 10 times over what the camera is set to. I have used both bodys i have in both versions of the firmwares and they work the same as far as the exposue so called problem no problem for me using the right camera settings. But i have been shooting photography using off camera lighting for over 15 years so i am so used to setting the camera manual its just second nature to me. As for lens do not get the Samsung 50x200 5.6 lens i got it and i am sending it back it is not very sharp at all. The best lens i have used so far are my Nikon mount lens the Samsung 16x50 2.8 lens i have is very good but my Nikon 24-120 F4 lens is still sharper. This video was shot with the Samsung 16x50 2.8 lens

Steve that is a good ? i will try it. I need to get a candle. It should just make the image darker not showing the candle. Stakers i have two NX1 bodys here and both did the drift till i changed the settings and now both work just fine. Glad yours is working good. Here is a video test i did today it shows a 60 shutter speed can be used to expose for a dark area but at 60 shutter speed it is to low and lets in to much light to be able to handle the bright light as i pan over to it. At 60 shutter i could not expose the camera for the bright light even at F32 on the lens. It would need a ND filter or the shutter speed to go up much higher to get the right exposure but then you would start seeing the video strobe effect so a ND would be the best to use when shooting in bright light..

Loading in some footage now i shot testing more and playing with my new 100x300 F4 lens. What i found is shooting at 50 of a second for video at ISO 100 and F4 i could exposed 100% right on a darker area but when i pan up to a bright area of water and clouds it over blows out as it should. If i try to expose for the bright water and clouds i can not do it as it is not with in the cameras range to do so with the shutter speed at 50 to 60 of a second even at iso 100 and the highest F stop the lens would go to that was not enough to drop down the amount of light coming in the camera to get a good exposure. The only way to fix this would be to use a ND filter or raise up the shutter speed so high you would get a strobe effect in the video. So in all the tests people are pointing the camera into bright light after exposing for a dark area and most likely the bright light area is brighter then the camera can handle even at the highest F stop with that low of a shutter speed. At that point the camera sensor is over loaded and blooms out. If it is with in the range of the F stop the camera is not set to that so it will still bloom out as more light is added at some point the camera sensor is over loaded just like if you look into the sun and see dots your eyes can not take looking right into the sun on a bright day your eyes over load so do camera sensors.

Wanted to ad something might make sense to someone. You are shooting video with a DSLR it works just like shooting photos as far as how exposure works. Take some photos of the same test and you will see the same results if the camera is manual exposed for the darker area and you take a photo it will look right then take a photo as you point into the brighter area and the image will no longer be exposed right so you photos will have a blown out background that is just how camera and exposure work. If i am shooting someone sitting in front of a bright lit window with sun coming it i have 4 things i can do to get the photo. 1 the best choice is to ask then to move to a better location to get a better image. I have no problem doing this. 2 expose for the subject the people and take the shot and the background will be over exposed all white but i will get the shot of them the subject exposed right. 3 Expose for the brightness coming in and i will have a very bad photo of them that is under exposed 4 expose for the bright light coming in and use flash to fill in the same amount of light as the background so the subject is exposed the same as the background making for the beast looking photo as both the subject and background are both exposed right. This take more work but produces the best image. It works the same way with a video camera you can not expect the camera to handle a bright exposure beyond what you have the camera set to. Pick one or the other or use fill in light to match the look and exposure or move the subject to a better to control area to shoot in.

Maybe its me but i do not see this as being a exposure drift problem at all. You are taking a item from a low light area into a high bright area the duck is then going to be more bright from the light hitting it more. Looking at what ever is the bottom right area the gray area you see almost no change if this was a exposure shift that would bhe changing to and its not only the bright area is changing as more light is let into the lens would this not be the expected result? As you move the duck up even the ducks head lights up from so much light hitting it this is all with in the range of what you have the camera set to. Even with a camera set to Manual everything on a dark area if you then bring in bright light the area will show as brighter up to the point the camera Manual setting can handle it then if its to bright for the camera to handle it will bloom the light from the sensor as it gets past the point of the what the camera can handle based on your manual camera settings. Your video also show it as a very smooth transition not the jump like others have reported. I think it comes down to do not point the camera with settings for low light into bright light as you do not have the camera set to handle that much light you need to find a middle ground or us lighting for the darker area to brighten it up to what the bright area is to make a good shot so they are balanced out right. I do not understand why anyone would expect the camera to preform well in this wide of a light change with out changing the cameras setting. If you manual expose the camera for a dim lit area then that is what the camera is set for its not going to look right when pointed to a bright area unless you change the cameras settings. I can not wrap my head around this thinking You expose the camera in manual for lest say a 50 of a second at f2.8 and iso 200 and then point the camera at something that is a exposed for a 50 of a second F16 and iso 200 and expect the camera to handle it... That nuts its going to bloom and show a brighter image you do not have it exposed for it handle that bright area. Do it the other way around... Expose manual for the bright area then pan to the dark area and light it up with light to match the bright area and then you will have the right image with the right exposure all looking right.

Tupp Yes after playing with it more last night i was able to get it off and then after looking at how it works you are right sliding the button toward the camera is what needs to be done. Me and two others all tried to get it off and none of us pushed the button toward the camera we kept trying to push or pull the button up or down. Now it works going on and off as it should. I know it had some paperwork with it but my wife had cleaned up and tossed it out i guess it would of pointed out this on the paper. All good now.

Just tried that and still can not get the adapter off the lens.. The silver button dose not push in or pull out. Not sure what to do.

​I can not reproduce that on any of the two NX1s i have. I am sending one back tomorrow i am keeping the first one with the 16x50 2.8 kit i do not need two of them, I have found problems with the 45mm 1,8 lens it will not auto focus at all many times on some thin items with the focus point right on it. Would not focus on a spider web, would not focus on a flower bush, would not focus on small berry's on a vine, Would not focus on a tag with words on it, Put the 16x50 on it and it focused on all the same items right away.

​I got my Nikon Adapter in and shot video with my Nikon 24-120 F4 lens it looks to be sharper then the Samsung 16x50 2.8 but now i can not get the Adapter off my Nikon lens its stuck on it. it is a Fotasy Adapter

Video is not working i was going to watch it..

For normal shooting i see no effect at all.. Like i pointed out for the tests this was so extreme any camera will have this blooming effect. The Only other camera i have to test with right now is the a Nikon Pro photo camera and with the same setting it blooms the image out to. If you read about camera chip blooming it is when the camera sensor can not take the brightness of the light like when shooting at F1.8 shutter speed 30 to 40 into bright light the Sensor overloads and the light pattern spreads and can fluctuate on the sensor creating this blooming effect and it has nothing to do with the camera exposure setting it is a limit on what a chip can handle every camera that uses a chip has this problem some handle it better then others the NX1 is handling it just fine. I shot a lot yesterday out side and under a tent with super bight sunlight all outside of the tent shooting inside the tent and panning around i have no problem at all even with the very bright light outside blasting in but i was not at F1.8 it would not make sense to be at F1.8 or 2.8 unless i used a strong ND filter. I did use a ND for some of my outside shots in the bight sunlight. Also got in my Nikon adapter and used my Nikon 24x120 F4 lens and i can see right away on playing back the video My Nikon lens is sharper then the Samsung 16x50 2.8. I will post the video at some point have a lot to edit and i did all hand held and some of that was not so steady at 120mm i have a new tripod that should be here in a day or so I am still building out my NX1 rig have all ready spent a good 5k on it all, Camera Lens, Nikon adapter, Eduis Software and still coming in good Tripod, Follow focus with hard stops and Whip, two more lens, Custom Shoulder rig and cage i am making using parts i am buying so i can shoot on shoulder and be hands free when not shooting or mount it on a tripod or hand hold it for low or fast camera moving shots, Led screen Finder eye cover, On camera Mike, Extra battery's, More hard drives for the video, Zoom pull stick, More ND filters for other lens. I think this is a good start.