The Chris

LENR or Capture One takes care of hot pixels. Fred Miranda created a script to take care of it in PS. http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/1391722 Its far less prevalent on exposures under 30 seconds, but a known issue. To the OP - if you knew about it going in - by creating this thread awhile back, why would you buy the camera and now complain about it? SMH.

Z-finder. I shoot in bright sun almost every day, been using one for years going back to the 5d2. Its a lifesaver. I'm getting the Hoodman for the EVF, if B&H ever has them in stock...

Andrew - you have any adapter issues with the A7rII and Canon lenses? I'm trying to decide which adapter to get to mate with the EF 16-35/4 and a few primes. If I can get full functionality without paying the Metabones tax, I'll go that route. Otherwise Commlite, Fotodiox or one of the others is where I'm going. Saw the sunspots mentioned on Dpreview as well - some have it and some don't. Odd.

As mentioned you can shoot uncompressed. Batteries are cheap/light, get the grip and carry 10. Fred Miranda and a number of others on Fred Miranda.com use Canon T/S lenses to shoot some pretty amazing landscapes without issue. As long as your adapter alignment is proper and you're not getting reflections, you're good to go.

Nice stuff. As long as you don't overexpose the NX1 image is very impressive. The DR curve is very different from Sony's sensor. Macgregors short on the Ferrari is awesome. I shoot in sunny conditions almost daily, bright skies were my biggest problem with the NX1, even with ND's. I've had an easier time with the A7rII. Edit: just saw your other post about underexposing, cheers

Those zomei filters look pretty good. To me it's worth an extra few bucks to avoid color casts and decent glass over resin. 2 or 3 ND's (you can stack them) and a polarizer is all I need.

Look at the banding in the sample images. Terrible. Check out the sad performance in the DR test. The A7rII mops the floor with this camera.

That Oliver Color looks pretty cool, how does it handle skin tones?

Dpreview posted studio shots and samples, lots of banding and DR looks not-so-good. Detail sucks too, and that's with a zoom costing over four large. Brutal. The A7rII and a Canon 24-70 L II could easily outperform this. http://***URL removed***/articles/9955093579/leica-sl-typ601-in-depth-camera-review

That article paints an incomplete picture, overall Canon's sales are up 6%. Imaging sales decreased by 4.2% and profit decreased by 3.8% over Q3 2014. Canon is diverse and all of its divisions are showing a profit. They're sitting on a lot of cash and making investments. Fuji, Panasonic and Olympus struggle to make any profit selling digital cameras, Nikon looks like it could really get slammed in the coming years too. Its bleak times for everyone, but they're still firmly in the black. http://www.canon.com/ir/conference/pdf/conf2015q3e.pdf

Fotga quality is inconsistent from the few I've owned. I've since moved to Haida. Lots of shooters on the landscape boards praise them. More expensive than Fotga, but much cheaper than Lee, Tiffen, and others. "Filterdude" on ebay has great prices.

A7s & GH4 both show moire: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=75DAsjWVTjw Its not a bad as the A7II. The A7rII has it in FF, but s35 mode is really good, about 20:30:

Only made it about a minute into The Curator, the handheld stuff is nauseating. Detail and colors look nice, lots of blown highlights.

You can't add DR to the NX1 either, so its a tradeoff depending on your preferences. The NX1's extra sharpness wouldn't improve on this piece one bit. https://vimeo.com/142734311 Pretty tough to shoot anything indoors without going above 1600 unless you're bringing lots of lights. I shoot events and go to 6400 regularly, even with F/1.4 lenses. Less noise and more DR make a bigger difference because the NX1 gets pretty messy above 1600, and 6400 is absolute mush, all the detail is lost in the noise. At least that was my experience. "normal conditions" aren't the same for everyone. YMMV

Great writeup Jones. Any chance you can weigh one of your lights? To save a little time/effort I used replacement cords for power tools as the light power cable, circular saws draw a lot more power than lighting fixtures, these cords are more than capable. Then you only have to connect positive/negative/ground once for each fixture. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-8-ft-16-3-Power-Tool-Cord-AW62631/100661442 I didn't use switches either to keep wiring easier, I plug them into a strip outlet and turn them on from there. If I want less light I just pull a bulb or move them further away from the subject.

Depends on the situation, in some cases there's very little difference between FF and crop the Canon zooms are pretty close to native lenses on the A7rII with the Metabones 4, not dodgy at all Use what makes you happy. For me there's plenty of resolution with s35 mode and the better DR/less noise is more significant than a little more detail - especially when most viewers don't have 4k panels. cheers

The A7rII is softer in FF vs S35, that's well known. If you're comparing them, using FF serves no purpose other than to make the A7rII look worse than it really is. I only use it when I don't need the extra detail like interviews. While S35 may not be as sharp as the NX1, it definitely has more DR, the highlights are far less brittle and the A7rII is cleaner at 3200 and above. This goes for stills as well. I sold my NX1 almost immediately after the A7rII was released, so any improvements since then are excluded from my opinions. The NX1 had a few quirks that drove me nuts, mainly the complete lack of back button AF - since I remove focus from the shutter button on every other camera I've owned, and Samsung only has a few lenses that are MF friendly. The EVF is far better on the A7rII as well. After seeing the performance of the A7rII with adapted lenses I decided my NX1 was on borrowed time. No electronic adapters and no speedboosters means there's a lot of great glass that's tough to adapt on the NX1. The fact that its been a year since Samsung introduced its last NX lens makes me feel it was a good decision to move to Sony. There's plenty of detail in A7rII S35 4k for me, it really pops on my 4k panel after sharpening and bumping contrast a bit.

No game changer, it's just huge.

Ok, maybe not GH5, but a new FF line - the GHXL - with the XL for its size, ha, ha.

Behold the new GH5.

It should be compared to the A7sII and the FS5 since both can be had for about the same as the SL body, and they both combine weigh about the same and are actually smaller in hand. Ok the last part is sarcasm, but geez this thing looks fat.

Are those LED's T8 bulbs? Are you just using LED bulbs with standard fluorescent parts? I'm thinking I could recycle what I already have and find a lighter housing than my current fixture. The Baby Pin looks like a good option to cut weight too. Gonna have to make another Home Depot run. Thanks.

Any links to the fixture? I looked at LED's in Home Depot and didn't see anything like this. I built a set of DIY Kinos with 48" shop lights on the cheap, but they're pretty heavy -- especially the 4-light bank. They need to have an electronic ballast to prevent flicker, the housing is cheap stamped steel, all the bolts/washers are steel - they got fat pretty quickly. But the total cost - including 12ea T8 5500k bulbs was about $300 for everything, or just a fraction of a single Kino fixture. Also, what are you using on the back to clamp it to the stand? I used cheap/light electrical conduit and some brackets to put them on stands, but I can only go vertical as you can see in the image below. If I can DIY a lighter set of lights, that would be awesome. Thanks in advance.

Great link. Been looking for some affordable LED's myself - right now I lug some DIY 48" fluorescent fixtures using fixtures from the home improvement store. The "S" version looks like it throws enough light to be a key in daylight. Sweet.

I took the same approach with a trashcan Mac Pro and a 40" 4k monitor, resale value is high and I'll get a lot out of it while I use it - I figure it'll cost about $20-25/wk if I keep it for 18 months. I can't stand the glare from iMac screens or I would have went with the retina. If they would just make a matte screen on the iMac...