NX1user

The Sigma Art 18-35mm F1.8 is parfocal. Same glass as its Cinema cousin. Buy a gear set from followfocusgears.com and you're ready to go! https://www.amazon.com/Sigma-18-35mm-F1-8-Lens-Canon/dp/B00DBL0NLQ/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=sigma+18-35&qid=1553964868&s=gateway&sr=8-3 https://followfocusgears.com/collections/sigma/products/seamless-follow-focus-gear-ring-for-sigma-18-35mm-f1-8-sigma-art-lens?variant=21512634400851 I just got one a month or so ago and can confirm it's parfocal. Here's a short piece with video about it: https://eriknaso.com/2013/11/02/sigma-18-35-parfocal-test/ You should know the lens does not have IS though.

If I'm procrastinating on an edit I done of two things: 1. I don't think about the whole project and just edit the part I know is good. You have to have at least a couple shots in mind where you thought "Wow this is a great shot." Find those and start building around those clips. That's usually enough to keep me going on a project. 2. Alternatively, I start with the part I know will be most problematic. Once I have that done and see that it took me less time than I thought, it's easier to keep going on the parts that don't have problems.

Another Tascam DR60d Mk II user here.

Hey folks! I need some lens opinions. I've been using a Samsung NX1 with a 16-50 S lens for client work video. I've upgraded to a Panasonic EVA1 and am looking for a workhorse lens. I've looked at a lot of videos and read reviews. My 16-50 is great, but I'm thinking I'd like a little more reach. I'm looking for a one lens option. For cinema work I use primes. What are your opinions of the Sigma Art 24-105mm and the Tamron 24-70 that has optical stabization?

I used the settings that Andrew recommended at that time. Gamma DR. The doc was played on Oregon's PBS channel. They didn't complain about the DR. Except for a couple drone shots, this is all NX1:

If you're looking for another example, my current reel is nearly all C500 into a Shogun Inferno, 10-bit 422HQ.

I'd love to hear too! I think this forum exists to get into that kind of stuff.

That's too bad... for them. Seriously. I've found, through experience, that clients that lowball like that are also the biggest headaches. They likely would have piled on extra requests, wanted infinite revisions to your edits, etc. that would use up more of your time. If they can't come up with 650 for three days of work, they aren't valuing their own business very highly. I have no doubt they will find someone cheaper, but the end product will look exactly like what they paid for it. In other words, don't feel bad and DON'T feel like you should ask for less for you talents!

I'd like to check out Cinematographer Salon. You friended me on Facebook, but I didn't get any info about the group.

It does look great! Looks like Gamma DR and they probably used FilmConvert in post with some sort of LUT applied as well.

I tried the updated app on my iphone 6. It works fine for viewing or downloading photos. As a remote control for the camera though, it's useless. You can see what the camera is seeing and touch focus. That's it, nothing else works. There's no onscreen button for taking a photo!

Thanks! All the sound was recorded separately to a Tascam DR60 mkII.

I've used the NX1 on a 20 hour shoot day where the temps ranged from the mid 80s - mid 90s and had no overheating issues. Also handy is that the NX1 can be powered through USB. On sticks or a good shoulder rig, I velcro on one of those big USB power bricks and I don't have to worry about batteries for a couple of days.

Thanks, I'll give that a try. I tried it in Premiere, but it wouldn't function properly. I forget that AE has those tools too and sometimes they work better there.

Update: The files recorded in the C500 are fine. They're 1080 and compressed, but fine. My friend emailed Atomos about the problem. They told him to update the firmware on his Shogun Inferno. That fixed the problem. It doesn't fix my footage though. I'm still looking for a solution that doesn't involve spending the next year masking or rotoscoping.

That's what I'm trying to figure out. I was hoping someone here would have seen it before and know the answer.

It's only on blown highlights though, whether they are in focus or not.

A friend and I were working on a fun project this past weekend. Canon C500 outputting 4k 10-bit 422 to a Shogun Inferno recording in ProRes 422HQ. Sometimes on the Shogun we could see a little green noise in the highlights, but didn't think it was actually recording it. Well, it was recording it. It's not my camera or Shogun, so I can't check anything on it now that the shoot is over. What is causing that green noise? How can I get rid of it in post?

The LS300 can output 10-bit 4:2:2?

NX1 with the KS hack has no limit. I power mine off a USB battery all the time.

I have used PNY cards since the hacks came out and they don't give me errors unless I choose 200mbps or above, they handle 180mbps fine. I have five of them and there's one that gives me that error message occasionally if the camera is cold (like 35º F or less), but it's fine once the camera has been on for a minute.

It's all Samsung NX1 (except for a couple of drone shots) with the Kinoseed bitrate hack (180mbs), using Andrew's Gamma DR profile. Lenses: Samsung 16-50 S, Rokinon 12mm and 85mm, plus some lensbaby. I used a couple LUTS by luts.iwltbap.com and FilmConvert in post. Filmed in 4K converted to ProRes for editing in Premiere. Yes, I know Premiere supports H.265, but I've had nothing but problems with H.265 files since the last update. Exported to 1080. What's it about? What do you call a ghost town that still has people living there? This documentary is a peek into the world of some folks that live in what others call a "ghost town." Haunted kewpie doll, boot fence, dream cowboys, custom caskets, and stories of healing are all there in the Dreamworld.

Shot in 4K and delivered in 1080, so pans, zooms, and crops could be added in post (but then they mostly weren't. I wasn't the editor). We had to get a lot of shots in a short time frame, that's why we chose to add the movement in post. Clipped blacks: Time crunch again as far as getting the edit done. The doc was for a class and part of the assignment is the quick turnaround. I'm not good enough at color correcting with scopes yet to get everything done in the time frame we had. Thanks for watching though!

You can't download any apps onto the NX1. Samsung had an app for smartphones that connected to the NX1, but no apps go on the camera.

You definitely will get different results with different brands even if they are listed as having the same technical specs. I've had good luck with PNY cards. I had four that were all reliable, recently bought a fifth and it has been giving me periodic problems. So I guess even within a brand there can be variation. Different factories maybe? It's old info now, but this illustrates that speed specs and/or price can't always be your guide: http://www.cameramemoryspeed.com/samsung-nx1/sd-card-comparison/