ac6000cw

The OM-1's strength is as a good handling, relatively light weight, handheld run-and-gun camera with very low rolling shutter. and decent AF. I think it's video quality is more than good enough for that kind of use (which is basically what I use it for), but TBH I don't think it's a camera you'd choose to put on a tripod and shoot a feature film with.

I've found that in video C-AF, if a lens is stopped down to a small aperture, the OM-1 (and the E-M1 ii/iii) will sometimes decide it's not quite in focus and pulse it to check. If the lens has low focus breathing it's often not noticeable as the depth-of-field at small apertures hides it. But it means lenses with low focus breathing are a good idea if using C-AF in video. Oly/OMS cameras don't have an AF-lock function, but you can assign the MF (manual focus) function to a button, which basically does the same thing (provided you don't touch the lens focus ring!). Also the AF-ON button can be used to force a re-focus in both C-AF and MF modes. So in MF mode, pushing AF-ON to get initial focus then tweaking it with the lens focus ring if necessary is easy. What video 'IS Level' are you using (-1, 0, +1) and is this in M-IS 1 (with digital) or M-IS 2 (sensor shift only) mode? At the +1 setting it will be jerky if you move it too fast (It's intended for static hand-held situations), but -1 and 0 settings should be OK for normal movement (in my experience).

In pictures of the bottom of the FX30, it doesn't look like it has a cable hole for a dummy battery. AFAIK the FX30 can be powered over USB-C from a PD-capable charger or power bank (the manual states 9V at 2A is the minimum spec). Otherwise just buy some more batteries. As MrSMW suggested, if you choose carefully (in my experience) decent 3rd-party batteries can be almost as good as the OEM ones and are normally much cheaper (but avoid the really cheap ones - they are cheap for a reason...).

Nikon would doubtless say you should buy one of our more expensive cameras with a CF Express Type B card slot... This is a low-cost camera (in today's full-frame market), so I'm not surprised it's limited to UHS-II SD cards.

I agree the low-contrast/low-saturation look seems to be fashionable at the moment - and I don't like it either. It's not accidental that the 'standard' settings of cameras (and TVs) usually have relatively high contrast and saturation - it makes the images look attractive and eye-catching. What sort of film would 'The Third Man' be without its high-contrast monochrome imagery, or 'Goldfinger' without the glitzy look? Out of interest, was the choice of GH7 versus the 'sister' smaller and lighter G9ii down to the internal 4k ProRes recording and fan cooling/longer recording times on the GH7?

Where is this sensor performance data coming from? It looks like you're quoting it from a website somewhere.

It means 'SuperSpeed' i.e. USB3 at 5 or 10 Gbit/s (the plastic parts of the connectors are also often colored blue). For reference 'High Speed' USB is 480 Mbit/s and 'Full Speed' USB is 12 Mbit/s. Note that while some USB-C connectors and cables support 'SuperSpeed', not all do (cheap cables in particular often don't support more than 480 Mbit/s). The 'SuperSpeed' connection uses separate wires in the cable, and it's cheaper to leave them out. So if buying a cable, check carefully that it supports SuperSpeed (5 or 10 Gbit/s) data rates if you need them. In my experience, most PC/Laptop USB-C ports are SuperSpeed-capable but peripheral devices to plug into them are a complete mixture of speed capability. Personally, no, but I almost always buy Sandisk or Samsung, and always 'sold by Amazon' i.e. not from marketplace sellers. I've never needed to buy a UHS-2 card, so no advice on that.

From dpreview's video test chart, OM-1 vs G9ii (both at 24p/25p/30p) - they are very close on resolution/sharpness: ....but on OM-1 is 50p/60p much softer than 24p/25p/30p - note the softness of the middle bar at 60p vs 24p/25p/30p : Those test results match what I've found when using the OM-1 for real-world video.

It is - provided you hold the camera reasonably still, otherwise you get jerks if you move it too fast. It's the mode I normally use for wildlife video with that lens. The extra crop that digital stabilization adds is actually useful in that situation too.

Yes, probably more than you really need - and sometimes several ways of doing the same thing (but annoyingly there are a few things that would be really useful to assign to a camera function button but you can't...). Photo and Movie modes are (mostly) separate worlds, including the function button settings.

If anyone is interested, this is a comparison I did of various OM-1 IBIS settings and Panasonic 'Power OIS' lens stabilization. All handheld, all C4K@50p video, using Panasonic 100-300mm f4.0-5.6 II lens at 100mm and 300mm. I was standing still, the camera was handheld, using the EVF, with my left hand underneath the lens and right hand holding the camera body.

It's also got a 4-stop ND filter:

Some video specs from https://www.fujifilm-x.com/en-us/products/cameras/gfx100rf/specifications/

From the press release on dpreview: ...and from the Fuji product page:

AFAIK, after a 'full reset' of the settings (see 'Shooting menu 1 -> Reset/Custom modes -> Reset -> Full), it defaults to using card slot 1 for everything. As this is a used camera, I'd recommend doing a 'full reset' anyway - the options are so complicated that you don't want someone else's preferences to start from...