markr041

​He stated he will use an external recorder - that is the only way to bypass the 29-minute limit - as this is an all-day event. So testing how long the battery lasts while recording internally is useless Moreover, an advantage of the NX1 is that you can power it externally using cheap external batteries attached by usb, so the internal battery life is also not relevant. For an all-day event, using an external recorder and an external battery will do the trick. And the NX1 can make use of both. The only question is whether there would be a heat issue leaving the camera on (but not recording) for a long time. I doubt that this would be an issue - the video is not being compressed by the camera when recording externally, which is the hard work.

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​Yes. Did you read the first post?: "Remains in Stand By mode after recording." Just push that button, and you are in video mode until you turn off the camera or push the shutter button (not the video record button). So, a dedicated video mode that still enables you to use the PASM dial - better than the GH3, GH4. You can stay in video mode the whole session shooting clip after clip. It's now a real video camera.

​I do not understand why this is so difficult: you press a button to go into video mode. In that mode, the lcd shows exactly the relevant crop factor for the video mode you have chosen. For UHD, it is the 2.77 crop factor; for 1080, it is the normal APS-C crop factor; for 4K it is the relevant fov for that. It is not a "fix" or an "option"; it is video mode, showing you exactly what you will end up with for your shots. You want to shoot video - you push the button to go into video mode and shoot video. Just like "movie" mode on the GH3, GH4, except you have an independent dial to set the shooting you want (PASM) in video mode on the NX500.

"An LCD protector with the crop lines can easily fix the silly lack of in camera crop lines." This is complete nonsense. Again, you press a button to get into video mode (once). You then see the crop mode on the lcd if you have set the video to shoot UHD. No need for an LCD protector, or any more complaints on this non-issue.

"2 -The lack of a dedicated mode/button/setting to show you that crop. This is just, stupid, and sad." "The Video mode framing bug is absolutely weird, I have no idea how it passed on to production without then noticing this will annoy the hell out of video shooters." I am sorry, but there is a dedicated video mode button. And when in that mode, it shows the correct cropped image on the lcd. As long as you do not press the button again, you stay in video mode after each shot (that is what the new firmware changed) and always see the correct 4K view. It only reverts back to non-cropped view when you turn off the camera, and back on. Just press the button, and start shooting video with the correct view until you turn the camera off. No reason to be sad.

​Here is the link to the original 1080120p H265 clip in which at 1:22 in the Youtube video there is a frame drop: https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=f951dd14a00df741!20332&authkey=!AMxmibpb3FFiCQE&ithint=video%2cMP4

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A key change is the high bitrate for the new 1080 120 fps mode. Here is a video where I test that mode to achieve slow-motion (reducing speed to .25, and rendering the 120 fps at 30 fps): Select 1080p with the gear.

​Actually, I meant shooting and playing back at 60 fps for smooth motion. But if you like slow motion you also have that option shooting at 60 fps.

I would suggest considering 2.7K, 60 fps, medium fov. 2.7K medium is substantially better than 1080 and is really quite good and the medium FOV lessens the curvatures that sometimes is very distracting (the resolution is also better at medium than at wide for 2.7K). Shooting at 60fps smooths out the motion better than 30 fps - and the point of the stabilizer is mostly so you can move around smoothly.

​Sorry, I meant the Samsung NX500 - costs the SAME, and has all the features of the EOS M3, except the soft video, and it has a 28 MP sensor and a 4K option. There is a transcode...

​The same exact things can be said for the Samsung NX1, except you get a 28MP sensor and 4K. Why isn't that the relevant competitor?

​Did you read the above post? - existing Intel chips now hardware decode H265 (drivers were upgraded to unlock this capability). Your new video card is irrelevant. You can use any available new cheap Intel-equipped machine and it will play H265 just as well as your new card plays 4K. And just as well as my smartphone plays H265. No super PC needed.

​This is just speculative nonsense. The fact is that current and last-generation Intel chips decode H265 in hardware, even Celeron chips. H265 video files play fine on cheap machines. I play them (the 80 Mbps Pro one from the NX1) smoothly, and on cheap machines (also on not cheap machines). Again, there is no excuse for Adobe not to support the H265 standard. I do not understand why it benefits anyone to defend Adobe on this even if you love their products. H265 is here; it is already supported by commonly available, cheap computers in hardware as well as one consumer software editing program natively (for a while). It is also supported in hardware by many 2015 HDTV manufacturers - just plug in your usb with H265 files and they play fine. The main reason is Netflix, which uses H265.

​Intel is already supporting H265 in hardware with its existing fourth and later-generation chips. H265 is a standard, and there is no reason to let Adobe Or Sony Vegas for that matter) off the hood for being slow to support it.

​It is not a "niche" codec, it is a new codec. It is in fact the new standard. It is used by Netflix, for example. Samsung is just the first to use it in a camera (maybe there are others). Cyberlink added support months ago, and the specs have been available for a long time. Obviously this is Adobe's fault that they do not now support this new standard. As for adding H264 to the camera - the bitrates would have to be gigantic to achieve the same quality as the HEVC 80Mbps (more than 200 Mbps). That is the point. That bitrate would be too much for the card slot and may also cause overheating. Or we could settle for mediocre lower H264 bitrates just so we can use Adobe?

​I think that more experience with using the gimbal to reduce shake might still have payoffs. In this more recent video I get much more stable "still" shots, including close ones like the statue clip, on my gimbal without any resolution-degrading stabilization in post (having less wind helped):

​Thanks for the correction; perhaps I was thinking of the G3. Did you use the stabilizer with the LCD back (my video was)?

​You lose quality by converting (re-compressing). You maximize quality (everything else the same) by not re-compressing twice and editing natively. Here is a video showing my color grading using the GoPro software, shooting Protune flat and editing natively (although we are getting off track!):

​You should, to backup your claim! And the Feiyu I think is inferior to the Z1-Pro. A major reason is that you can use the GoPro lcd back on the Z1 Pro, so you can actually see what you are shooting. It seems nuts to shoot video blind. The reason you can use the lcd back is that the Z1 Pro (and its clones) has more powerful motors (but they are quiet and efficient - 4 hours of use per charge).

​I do not downsample 4K video. I see no need (of course Vegas Pro can do that - it is one the most powerful editors). I also see no need to convert to intermediate codecs of any kind. If you have the right computer/software, you can edit natively 4K video clips and play 4K video as well. The videos I upload are all 4K. 4K videos look great on HD monitors and HDTV's. They scale fine.

​I edit in Sony Vegas Pro 13. There is no need to transcode; the files are standard H264 MP4. The workflow is no different for the GoPro than for any 4K video camera. But you can use the free version of Cineform (GoPro Studio) if you wish.

Just for comparison I shot a 4K test video using my GoPro 4 Black on the Z--One Pro 3-axis gimbal. The video includes vertical and horizontal pans, walking while shooting and stills, including close-ups. No stabilization was applied in post:

​Don't you think that is likely due to YouTube compression, which is always pretty bad? Or it could be what bitrate the video was rendered at. In any case, it would be great if the you could tell us if this is a problem in the original and what the rendered video specs are. I thought the video was impressive - the wide view of the GoPro was well-suited for looking at the architecture, and the camera movements were smooth, although the still shots seem to tremble.