mercer

You mean 8K 120p isn't industry standard? Don't tell the forum this, there could be a mutiny.

I saw a videographer shooting a trade show with a C100 yesterday. I didn't get close enough to see if it was a Mark 1 or Mark 2 but I assume it was the latter. It's still a moneymaker.

@Anaconda_ thanks for all of the tests! If you have the time and feel inclined, could you try taking a bunch of 30 second to 2 minute shots consecutively for about 20-30 minutes and see how it goes? I just don't understand why some people are having zero issues with these "custom" drives and I can't get one to work consistently.

Thanks for the info. I've used the custom setting and still had issues with NVME drives. I never shoot a shot longer than 2-3 minutes and most are less than a minute. But they are consecutive, with little time in between. As I said, some drives will work normally for a while, but then after 10-20 minutes of running and gunning a bunch of shots, the recording will just stop and then that will continue from that point on. Which internal drive are you using with the DPL? It seems the guy who shot the video you posted tested all of the DPL recommended drives and had the same issues I am having with these alternate drives. I figure I'll test a couple more and then maybe I'll try reflashing the newest firmware.... if that's possible.

Cool, I'm thinking of doing the same thing. I really like the 12bit 4K and shooting at 3200 ISO with my small collection of Minolta lenses. But a lot of its appeal is that it's a tiny camera that shoots FF Raw. These external drives are the antithesis of that. What internal SSD are you using with the DPL? And have you tried any kind of stress test with it? The issues I'm having with unofficial drives is that they're fine for about 10 minutes, then all of a sudden the recording stops... I assume due to buffering. If I switch over to a Sigma recommended drive, the camera works fine, so I don't think it's an overheating issue. I'm pretty sure I'm going to keep the camera, it's just finding the right setup for it. FD lenses are great on almost any camera. It helps that the adapters are also a little smaller as well. Very nice sample from the FP, but YouTube compression torments it. Which really gets you thinking... Sadly, in the comments, he mentions similar SSD issues with the DPL rack that I'm experiencing with unofficial drives. It seems these NVME drives work if you're casually using the camera during a trip, on a walk, or at a family event. But if you're firing off a lot of shots successively, or planning dialogue scenes... I don't know if they're a great solution. Damn.

Whose to say, that technique always worked with cheap mini-dv camcorders too. They were marketed as having a parfocal lens... or it was just a side effect of the tiny sensor... either way, it was a cool feature to nail focus.

Sorry for the late reply... Honestly, I haven't tested either enough to say with certainty, but I wasn't impressed at all with the 1080p raw. Without question ML Raw from my 5D3 is vastly superior. The only positive being is the higher frame rates from the FP, but I VERY rarely need slow motion. The 4K 8bit raw wasn't bad. It seemed like a really good compressed codec that you can bend a bit more with the raw settings. I'm having so many issues finding an SSD solution that I really wish I could just shoot internal 4K 8bit raw but the SD cards are just too damn expensive... 10 minutes of footage on a 128gb card is just too limiting and at $150 a pop... too expensive. With that said, I think the 4K 8bit could be useful for very specific projects... micro-short films where you may have a low shooting ratio... projects or sequences that may be finished in B&W or have a very basic analogue look... vintage S8/16mm type of thing. With the MC-21 adapter and a Canon IS lens, it could be a really interesting set-up. Thanks for this! I've been testing numerous drives from the recommended list and unofficial drives and I have yet to find an unofficial drive that works for any extended period of time with run and gun shooting. A few I've tested (Kingston) work for about 10-20 minutes of extensive shooting, but then will start acting up and stop recording after 5-10 seconds. I assume it's a buffering issue. The two recommended drives I have (Sandisk Extreme Pro & Samsung T5) seem to work without issue, but to be honest, I don't think I pushed them as hard as the unofficial drives because I just assumed they work. The internal Kingston NVME drive I have installed inside a SmallRig enclosure is actually an okay set-up... That said, the DPL seems damn near perfect, except for the price. I was regularly checking for a great price on an FP, but I needed a deal to make it worth it. For what I do, my 5D3 is more than enough for my needs. But I found an FP that was too good to pass up and I really like the IQ (and finally having a camera where I can use my Minolta lenses) but I still want/need to keep this camera set-up as stealthy and CHEAP as possible. I guess I try one of those Sabrent drives. I tested the Rocket Nano drive and it didn't work at all. Thank God for liberal return policies. Do you know which version of the Sabrent NVME you are using? Is it the Blue or Brown Rocket?

The C200B is on sale at B&H right now. I think it's $2400.

Since I'm here... I may as well post a couple shots from my newest copy of the Nikkor 35mm 1.4 lens on the FP. I've owned a few of these over the years and always make the mistake of selling it. With the uptick in prices, I thought it would be out of reach... well patience pays off and I was able to find one for a reasonable price.

I've been meaning to comment on this... I think these look great. I've always read that this sensor needs a ton of light, but I've always liked the look of slower native lenses on the OG cams. As you may remember, this is a lens I've wanted for the BMMCC for awhile. Stick it to f/5.6 and it seems to be a nice little set up with OIS. Since this is a power zoom, does it work like a camcorder lens... can you zoom all the way in, grab your focus and then zoom out?

I think you may have read too much into my suggestion... I was merely stating that a simple turn to B&W could eliminate chroma values as a possible reason for the OP's issues. I never intended to suggest for him to deliver all of his footage from the S1 as B&W.

If it's a 4:20 vs. 4:22 issue, then you could desaturate the footage you already shot and the artifacts should disappear.

The 1080p wasn't necessarily bad, it's just nowhere near as good as on the 5D3. I really want the 8bit 4K to be better than my first test. I'd like to shoot as bare bones as possible and although the DPL is a solution, it still adds unnecessary bulk to the camera. But the storage for the 8bit 4K CDNG is pretty hefty and the SD cards are astronomical. We'll see. Like I said I want to do another test before I completely give up on it. I also want to test the 48p option.

Okay, thanks that makes sense. That may be the problem with the drive I was using. It wasn't really full at all, but I guess after a bunch of quick recordings, it was too taxing on the buffer. It's a shame the T5 drives aren't as readily available, or as cheap as they once were. SmallRig makes a side handle where the T5 can be inserted into the handle. It's a pretty nifty solution. Can you confirm this... I just watched a YouTube video and the guy said the the picture profile was baked into Braw footage. Well, he specifically said that the OFF profile was baked in, but I assume that all are? If so, that's kinda weird. I suppose it seems like I am contradicting myself... I probably am. My goal is to make the rig as compact as humanly possible, for most shooting, but I can see some benefits to rigging it out with a V-mount and using it on sticks and/or a dana dolly for more controlled shoots. In those instances, is my curiosity about the Sandisk Blade system.

MPB seems pretty reasonable when you're looking to trade. After answering a few simple questions, they give you a quote and how much it will save you toward whatever you're looking to buy. They'll even hold the camera/lens for you until they get your gear and assess it. To be clear though... I've only gotten a quote from them and never went through the entire process. The offer seemed reasonable but definitely on the lower end. For the ease of the process, it may be worth it. I've never really had an issue with eBay, but I have heard horror stories. I make sure I am extremely honest in my listing, but also make it clear that I'm not an expert and that this is used gear so it is being sold AS IS. The last I checked eBay takes 12%. If you're a new seller, there may be a grace period for you to receive the funds until there is proof of tracking. That said, I'm always wary because I'll get offers from people with very few feedback scores. I usually only sell at a Buy it Now price with a Best Offer option. I usually list on the higher end to weed out the riff-raff but I still get a lot of lowball offers I'll either ignore or decline. Sometimes you get some sob stories... "it's Christmas and I really want to surprise my pregnant wife, whose about to give birth in a manger, a camera, can you accept 10% of the asking price... blah... blah-blah... blah"

Honestly, I don't quite understand why Panasonic shooters are still complaining about their AF? This isn't 2014, if you need AF go buy a Canon or Sony. It's not like Panasonic is leaps and bounds ahead of Canon and Sony with video features any more. In fact, they're probably lacking.

Okay thanks. Do you remember what brand you're using? Also were you doing a lot of starting/stopping when using your Dark Power Labs set up? I abbe to test the internal recording a bit more... I was hoping I'd like the footage more than I do. Like I said, other than the higher ISO capabilities of the FP, my 5D3 seems to look much nicer than the internal 1080p on the FP. Granted it adds some slow motion options. I think I need to go out and just test the 8bit cDNG. I hate the amount of data it burns through with the cost of SD cards, but it's definitely the most option of the camera.

So, I wasn't too clear there, but I saw on the B&H specs page, for the FP, that the native dual-iso, in internal cDNG (8bit 4K & 12bit 1080p) is 100 on the low-end, and 640 for the high. B&H specs aren't always correct, but they usually are. I need to do more research to see if that's the case. I'd imagine the image is still fairly clean regardless, but I am planning on only shooting on the two native ISOs on the FP. YMMV. I totally agree about ISO 3200... it's one of the best features of the camera... in the woods, even in mid-day, bumping up to 3200 and using ND filtration makes a drastic improvement in overall IQ without the need for extra lighting, and/or reflectors. I love the way the highlights are handled as well. Even a bright sky that's basically blown out has a nice softness to it. I love the clean, modern image I'm getting from the FP, and it's small size, but if not for the 3200 ISO feature, I may not even keep the camera. I find my 5D to be an overall nicer shooting experience with only a minimal bump in IQ for the FP. The workflows are actually very similar so it seems like a great in-betweener camera for me when I need higher ISO or where a little extra resolution can be beneficial. In their marketing Sandisk try and sell that this product is already part of established professional productions and workflows... I think it may be a little hype. But it seems like a cool option. I'm also looking at the Dark Power Lab option. I almost purchased their basic set up last week, but after looking at the cost and availability of the internal nVME drives, I was a little discouraged. It seems like the size could be outdated soon enough. I also saw on YouTube that they tend to get kinda hot. What brand nVME are you using? It seems Sabrent, Samsung and WD are the only options. I'm very run and gun, so overheating frightens me a little and compatibility is a concern. I may shoot a dozen short shots in as many minutes, and then jump right into a dialogue scene that I'm getting coverage for. I need it to be reliable. Shooting with the Kingston SSD the other day, which is not on Sigma's recommended list, basically made the camera unusable. I haven't had ANY hiccups shooting with my 5D and the ML Raw hack for over 5 years... so having my camera recording stop in the middle of a take was pretty disheartening. This isn't a hacked camera. Perhaps the supplied cable has something to do with it... I read somewhere that 3.1 generation is important to how the FP operates with the USB-C. I believe the Kingston and others like the T7 are using 3.2 so even with the faster speeds, I guess there may be some kind of compatibility issue. I may buy a new cable and test it out because the size of those Kingston drives is pretty tiny. Sabrent also makes one called the Rocket Mini, so if you, and others, are using Sabrent nVME drives with your DPL, then that might be an alternative option as well. I think I need a little more testing and some research before I drop the money into DPl... even though that seems like the best option if it works and the drives aren't too expensive.

After purchasing a Sigma FP a few weeks ago, I realized that the SSD route is really the only viable option with the camera. Sadly. As cool as the camera is with its tiny size, I think most users would have preferred internal recording to a larger memory card solution. I know I would have. CFExpress or whatever the newfangled cards are, couldn't have added too much to the size of the camera. The internal 12bit CDNG 1080p isn't any better than the video quality from my 5D3 w/ ML Raw and I don't think the Dual ISO for the internal CDNG modes share the same 3200 ISO rating that makes the camera so appealing to me. That said, I do like the camera and the 4K image, so I've been testing a few SSDs and it seems that the popular Samsung T5 drive is either to0 difficult to get now, or is too expensive. According to the internet, the T7 doesn't seem to get along with the FP as well as the T5 does... which doesn't make much sense to me since it's a faster drive, but either way, that leaves only a few Sigma recommended options... the LaCie Rugged... and the Sandisk Extreme. The LaCie Rugged is an orange monstrosity that seems as big as the camera... so... NO. I've been using the Sandisk Extreme and it works pretty well so far, but it's a little bigger than I'd like... so I searched online for some smaller drives. I found a Kingston and an Adata. Since Kingston is a better known brand, I decided to give it a go... and... it worked really well. It was recording for over a minute during my tests without issue. So I decided to take it out for a test shoot... again no issues... I recorded a bunch of clips without any issues... even a few that went over the 1-2 minute mark. So I thought... SCORE! This thing is tiny in comparison to other drives and the cost is reasonable enough... but then at the end of this test shoot... it decided to hiccup. Every time I hit record, there was a lag and the recording would barely last 3-5 seconds... so not a win. I then plugged in Sandisk Extreme and no issue whatsoever. Again this is weird since the Kingston is "supposed" to far outpace the Sandisk Extreme... like double the speeds. Maybe it has to do with internal heat, or something, I don't know, either way it didn't work. I assume I'll just continue with the Sandisk Extreme SSDs and buy a couple more, but then I happened to notice a product called the Sandisk Pro Blade system. It seems marketed to video productions... they even use pictures of it being used with a BMPCC 6K Pro in their marketing. Now it isn't particularly small or cheap, but the mags are about the same price as the individual Sandisk Extreme drives and when shooting in more controlled environments, or when using a bigger rig, it seems very simple to just pop out a mag and replace it rather than unplugging the Extreme SSD, detaching it from the rig and then hooking up a new one... Anyway, sorry for the long post, but I was just wondering if anyone has any experience with this system?

I'm finding it's better to protect the highlights as much as possible with the FP, no matter the mode. But there is a lot of latitude which is making exposure a breeze. Between the center-weighted meter and the waveform, it seems near impossible not to get a workable shot. That said, I still want to test out the 8bit raw mode a bit more and the 1080p, especially in higher frame rates. I like how it has a 48p option. I had a look at the DPL products and they do look nice. I watch this guy named Justin Phillips on YouTube and he mentions them in one of his videos and it seems the drives get a little hot... have you noticed that with yours? I'm also looking at a couple other brand SSD's... Kingston and Adata both make very small, external SSD drives and Sabrent has a small one called the Rocket Nano which is self-contained. I'm gonna have a go at those and make sure I'm happy with the camera before I send off for the DPL caddy/drive... even though that's probably where I'll end up. I want to keep this thing as compact as possible.

I need to mess around with the 8bit, internal raw a little more. I tested it for a few minutes and it seems to take a big hit in the highlights, but since the footage seems to handle underexposure pretty well, I could try protecting the poop out of them. Thanks for the info regarding the DPL drives. I'll have to figure out my FB login and have a closer look.

Cool set up! How do you like the FD lenses with the FP? I like the smaller adapter. I'm probably going to buy an M-mount lens to keep the camera nice and small.

Yeah that's a bit pricey, but it's better than the equivalent cost of SD cards... obviously not to mention the bump in resolution you get using the drive. Can you purchase two enclosures and one rack? I doubt I'd ever need any more than 50 minutes of footage in one day, but I guess it doesn't hurt to have two set ups. I bought a SmallRig enclosure the other day but I haven't ordered the drive or the cold shoe attachment for it yet. One of each could probably do.

Smart, my natural inclination would have been to leave the grip on the camera and take off the drive. Your way is quicker. If you don't mind me asking... how much is that DPL Drive?

Nice! I'm using the same handle, but in black. That DPL rack is pretty sweet!