mercer

My first HD camera was a Panasonic point & shoot back in 2009 and it shot 1080p MJPEG and I still quite like the motion cadence from it. But yeah it is a prehistoric codec, but then again if it works...

As @Geoff CB asked... What camera are you using? I understand it's an aps-c sensor, but the specific camera, or camera line could mean the world of difference as to which lenses will work with your camera. There are already some great suggestions, so I will add Pentax-M lenses, very inexpensive with some of the best mechanics around. The focus rings on Pentax lenses are just a dream. With that I'll also suggest Pentax's older lenses the Super Takumar. They also have that Pentax, buttery smooth focus ring. The 35mm f2 is a gorgeous lens but I believe that one is radioactive. If you would accept slower, and cheaper, the 35mm f3.5 is a stunning lens. Most people would rather have that slower lens because the IQ is just simply gorgeous. Then for your 50, there's the 1.4 (radioactive) or jump up to a 55mm and you can get the 1.8 or f2 models... Both beautiful lenses and both dirt cheap on the used market. And then I think they have an 85mm 1.9 which will be teetering on your higher price range, they sell for about $200 USD. I am not sure if they are radioactive but I think I noticed some yellow glass when I just had a quick look on eBay, so they probably are... Of course, as you probably already know, you would have to grind up the glass elements and eat the dust for there to be a medical concern.

Pentax 110 But they may not work with the nx1. That is the longest of the mirrorless systems.

The Pentax 110 lenses work on aps-c, as long as it's a mirrorless.

It looks great. Yeah, I am really enjoying this camera. It's just a ton of fun and the quality definitely is better than the G7 as well. My videos are almost too sharp, even with sharpness dialed all the way down.

Also, is the 60i due to the 4K downscale or does the HDMI output also force 60i with 1080p footage? I actually really like the 1080p footage in the XC10. I think it's as good as most consumer 4K downscaled in post, but if I could get the 220mbps prores, in 1080p, with the Ninja Star, that would be very interesting. This thing would be a run & gun BM cam with 5-Axis stabilization and Canon color.

Oh, is there any change in motion cadence or blur or anything? Do you have any videos on Vimeo where you used it with the XC10?

Why do you have to use the 60i function?

I think it depends on your set up and on the lens. Thus far, I have kept it pretty simple. A neck strap, my right hand on the grip, my left hand serving double duty to support the lens and focus from underneath. With certain vintage lenses it is a pleasure. On longer, heavier lenses it is unbalanced. I intend to include an L-bracket eventually and I recently found a rail free follow focus I may include. Either way, I will use vintage primes 99% of the time, I just like the look better.... Vintage c-mounts... I like even more so.

EDIT: Sorry I misread the comment.

I think the best hope for Canon stills cameras to have the video features that everyone wants will be with their mirrorless line. Think about it, their consumer eos-m3 has focus peaking, but their flag ship full frame model does not... that has to tell you something. Canon's DSLR market is primarily for stills. With the rumored, but practically confirmed, release of a Canon FF mirrorless coming out in late Fall, I believe a lot of these desired features will be included in that camera.

I think the point really is this... It is what it is. These are the specs Canon has decided on. Now it's up to us to decide if we want to buy one, or go a different route. You gotta love the free market. I, personally, would take this over an equivalently priced Sony any day of the week. The codec may be outdated but it's stable, has beautiful motion cadence, and requires less processing power. Sure you need more storage, but storage is cheap nowadays, so no biggie. I own a Canon XC10 and a Panasonic GX85. I love them both for different reasons and they both have a place in my tool box.

Funny thing is, I was just going to ask the opposite... Is anyone using vintage primes. I have noticed that due to the size and shape of the body, a lot of vintage primes are too front heavy for the body and makes it an ergonomical mess when using IBIS. My Nikkor 28mm f2, which is one of my favorite lenses of all time feels completely unbalanced and awkward on the GX75. I'm bummed too because I sold the AI version a few months back, but recently bought the ai-s version because I missed it so much. But to answer your actual question, no I don't have any Panasonic lenses, but I do have the Sigma 30mm f2.8 and it is a blast to use. Set the camera to manual focus, hit your mark in the foreground, pan or tilt, then touch the AFL button and the results are a beautifully smooth rack focus with a pan or tilt. I like the clinically sharp look too. Now I'm intrigued by the f/1.4 Contemporary version of the Sigma... Does anyone have that?

Yeah, the personal side of me gets a little annoyed that they don't include all of the above, but the business side of me doesn't blame them. It's market segmentation. The real issue is that Canon has way too many camera models and too many benchmarks for each line. But if you look at their models and the features they include in each respective camera, their company strategy is pretty evident. And it seems to be working for them... But honestly, how exactly is it poor customer service? If you are a customer who purchased a camera based on the specs presented at the time of purchase, how can you complain it doesn't have more than offered? And you have to be a customer to receive service. Three quarters of the people who complain about Canon on these forums are trolls and not actual customers.

I'm sorry but how many times do people need to be told by Canon that they will not include C-Log in cameras that are not part of the C Series before they will believe them? You cannot logically blame Canon for not including something they have repeatedly told the world they will not include... It reminds me of Einstein's definition of insanity. However, with the price drop of the 1dC, I wouldn't be surprised if Canon releases a 5dC.

Celtx has a storyboarding app called Celtx Shot.

This is the problem I am having with the Fotodiox Excel+1. I bought it pretty cheap on eBay, but any direct light and the center becomes a hexagonal mass of low contrast Smurf haze. When indoors, or not in direct sun, it is actually not bad, but that blue hexagonal haze... Ugh. I think I may send it back and pick up a Mitakon.

I read somewhere that you can use a thin MD to ef (no glass) adapter to a focal reducer and it works. Never tried it myself though. I think M42 will mount to MD too. Again no first hand knowledge.

So, you won it for $160?

@jase since VNDs aren't actual NDs, but 2 polarizer you can get some funky effects now and then. Most VNDs continue to rotate past maximum where that dreaded X pattern occurs when you're in no man's land until you return back to minimum. This is why I only use VNDs that have the hard stops on either end.

That's Samsung. But I did hear their microwaves shoot 24p in Cinema DCI.

I recommend picking up a cheap variable ND to try. If you like the workflow, then spend the money. You are getting pretty good results the way you are shooting now, so why spend too much money until you know for sure you like using a VND and want to change your method. For cheap VNDs I can highly recommend the Bower VND. It's cheap with very neutral rendering plus it is one of few VNDs (even the more expensive VNDs) that have hard stops on either end. I find it's also good to have a cheap one in your bag in case you're in adverse conditions... the beach or deep in the woods. If you're going to get sand on you're filter, it might as well be the cheaper one.

Thanks for the link, very helpful. I did the same thing as you originally did... I set the display in preferences to RGB. I've definitely noticed a difference since I did it, but I am always second guessing myself with color since I usually have such a rough go of it. Funny thing is, when I have a question I need answering and I Google it, I usually find the answer on EOSHD. This is such a helpful community!!!

No, I have a JVC and a Roku TV... I think it's a TCL. I wonder what the best method is to ensure that color looks acceptable on multiple platforms and devices. Obviously, I can't control how people have their settings, but is it commonplace to desaturate to the lowest preferred levels?

Haha, yeah the music is definitely eerie, that guy has some great royalty free music. That shot was giving me problems all over the place, I used AWB for that shot and I think there were just too many mixes of shade and sun that confused it. I either used Portra or 160s. I have the stand alone version, so this was the first time I ever sent out an XML from FCPX to FC, needless to say I had some issues, so I had about 3 different versions before this one and I honestly forget which of the two profiles I used. I seem to like Portra the best, so it is probably that. Did it look over-saturated on your screen? On my macbook and iPhone it looks as intended, but on my TVs, it does not... which is really annoying.