mercer

The 50mm 1.7 is a great lens and so cheap. If you want to try some great Pentax lenses, the "K" versions were their first k-mount lenses after the Takumars and most of them are the same optical formula as their SMC Takumar counterparts without the radioactive glass, so no yellowing. The 50mm 1.4 is a beautiful hunk of glass.

@heart0less I imagine that your X-T3 looks tiny attached to that behemoth. The projection lenses are a little tougher to decipher what is what. I also saw a Cinelux 2x with a focus ring. It looks more like a Blue Star. Which is bigger the Blue Star or the Cinelux? When I first started shooting video, I jumped at the cheapest vintage lenses I could find. I think my first purchase was an RMC Tokina 28mm 2.8... not a horrible lens but nothing to write home about either. At the time, the thought of spending the money on Nikkors or Canon lenses made little sense. Needless to say, I wish I had taken the time to save up the money for better lenses. Of course, I did get some cheap gems... Pentax-M lenses are miniature works of art. I also learned a ton about different lenses because I researched every single lens available. Speaking of Pentax, I wonder how good those tiny 110 lenses would work as taking lenses on one of those 8mm scopes like the Yashica scope. The 50mm 2.8 110 lens is a really nice piece of glass. I can't use them on my 5D3 but on a mirrorless camera they could be great. They cover the sensor of the EOS-M, so maybe ML Raw anamorphic with those lenses would be a great combo.

Sorry, I thought it was you that has a 16-H. So you have the Blue Star and the Cinelux? Which Cinelux do you have because the Super Cinelux that I am seeing do not have a focus ring, just the Hex Key focus adjustments. Yeah, I guess it's not too much of a difference but a half a pound is a half a pound and every little bit helps. And since I shoot in public places, the black scope is a lot less conspicuous than the shiny gold. But I'm going back and forth anyway. I'll probably make a list of 3-4 possible scopes I wouldn't mind having and then jump on the best deal I can find. Again thanks for your help! That 100mm Cinelux X-T3 combo looks amazing.

Yeah, I'd imagine the 100mm would be pretty tight under those circumstances. Was that 1080p or 4K? Have you ever used the 100mm with your 16-H? I love the look from the Cinelux, it really has that sharp, crisp, "modern" look but it must be a beast of a set up? The Pooli rehousing is really interesting to make the set up a lot lighter, though. Ultimately, I think I'd like a Kowa B&H and a Cinelux. The Cinelux is more feasible right now, so that may be my first scope. I may just go ahead and do the Pooli rehousing and save up for the Rapido 16a while I wait for the mod to be done. Eventually, when I have a little more money, I'll pick up a Kowa B&H. With the GH5's current low price, wouldn't it be a good anamorphic option for you?

@heart0less thanks, I really appreciate that!!! It looks like a great combo!!!

@fuzzynormal great work! Was that with the GH5? You should use this thread as a reason to make a whole series of mini docs about your hometown... you could even use a different vintage lens for each one.

The Cinelux rehouse looks slick. Let me know how it works out. Even Pooli's 1.33x adapter looks interesting. Good to know, thanks. It looks like I'll go with the FVD-16a. Btw, if you get a chance I'd love to see something shot with your Cinelux and Series E 100mm. Even something in 1080p would be fine.

Hey Timotheus, I have not mentioned a budget yet. Originally, I was planning on getting in as cheap as possible for around the numbers you mentioned. But after watching a bunch of videos, I started to think that I may sell my BMMCC and c-mount lenses, so I can buy a Kowa B&H. However, I imagine the c-mounts won't be a quick sale, so in the meantime, I may buy a 16-D/Elmoscope l, if I find one for a good price, just to get a feel for it. I figured I would just double focus for now, or maybe buy the FVD16 to split the investment up a little... but I hadn't realized the Rangefinder was that cheap. Do you think the Rangefinder is good enough to keep with a 16D/Elmoscope if I choose to keep both set ups? Or do you think two set ups would be redundant? As I said in my original post, up until now I have been shooting with IS lenses handheld, or using an unextended monopod in combination with a tape measure pouch I hook onto my belt. For future projects I'd like to use a tripod, slider and eventually integrate a Glidecam or gimbal into my arsenal/skill set. With that said, my shooting will still be somewhat run and gun, so the most compact/lightweight rig is paramount. Sorry, I don't know who/what Pooli is... haha? I guess I'll have another post regarding rigging in the not too distant future. Thanks for any suggestions you may have!

If you look at the shadowed part of her dress, it looks like chroma noise to me. You'll see it with ML Raw with underexposed shadows, but this shot is hardly underexposed. Hmm.

Slight OT from your question but the "Buttery LUT" has a LUT that brings the original Pocket footage into the Gen4 color space so he can use P4K LUTS with it. Perhaps his Gen4 LUT would work well with Sage's Alexa LUT for your Micro.

There's a guy I follow on IG that uses FD lenses with his P4K and they look great. With that said, what I learned most from that video, is how much Panasonic is killing it lately. If I was in the market for a new camera, I am pretty certain I would buy an S1H.

Really? I've bought a few lenses from Japanese sellers over the years and every single one of them has been junk and not as described. Obviously not all Japanese sellers are bad but I've been burned enough to be very wary. Yeah, I'm sure the 24mm f/2 and the 85mm 1.8 would be fine. A lot of people prefer the basic 50mm 1.4 over the 1.2 L, so I'm sure they're really good. I haven't used an FD lens that I hated. Luckily, I am finding that I should be able to intercut the FD 50mm 1.2 with my EF 28mm 1.8 in a pinch. Canon 28mm 1.8 Canon FD 50mm 1.2 L modified to EF... Other than a quick correction, both of these were SOOC with just the default Rec709 conversion in the Resolve Raw Panel. I think with a few contrast adjustments, I can get them to match pretty good. With that said, I'll probably be on the lookout for some nFD lenses and try to build a rag tag set over the next year or two. I've never owned an UWA for FF, so the 17mm f/4 could be an interesting lens. Yup!!! It's absolutely nuts! We've discussed a couple times how nice of a lens it is but I can't believe it's +$2000 nice... you can probably find a Super Speed for that money. You forgot to add my aging eyes and total disregard of skill, talent and craft.

I'd love to get the 24mm 1.4 but they doubled in price over the past year or two. I'd see them sell for around $700 but now they're hard to find for less than $1500 with some Japanese eBay sellers asking over $2000. I don't want it that bad. With that said, if I was forced to own only one lens, I could make do with the 50mm 1.2 for sure.

I've been using the Canon FD 50mm 1.2 L lens I had modified to EF mount a lot lately and I must say it is quickly becoming one of my favorite lenses. I'd be curious to know how this lens resolves on 4K cameras, if anybody has any insight. On my 5D3, with ML Raw, it's slightly soft, some may say organic, but it has great separation... both color and subject. I find I like it with muted tones, though. I can really see why Canon used the optical designs from the FD lenses for their K-35 cinema glass.

Thanks, I am seeing a couple 16-S at that price with the D a little higher. There's a guy from Indonesia that has a few different scopes for sale on eBay. He has a NOS Elmoscope I, but it looks different than other version I models I've seen? Or so could be getting some scopes confused... a lot of info to digest the past couple days. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F392474934664 I thought I read somewhere that Sankor/Singer 16-D is a different lens than the Kowa 16-D... even though logic would dictate otherwise. Either way, I assume they all perform in a similar way. I tend to like smaller set ups and it looks like the Kowa A, C and F are shorter than the 16-D and S? You guys have been great, I really appreciate your insight. It can be a little daunting to wrap my head around. Small world... I happened upon one of your older Sun/t2i videos while looking at scope videos on Vimeo. It looked great... sharp! Cool. I'm going to experiment with a bunch of different taking lenses to see how wide I can go. I'm also hoping I can use the "new" experimental build to get a little more resolution out of my 5D3. What camera do you use now for anamorphic? It seems like that's the smart play. I made a lowball offer on a Kowa 16-S last night that didn't work out.

I may do this. That way if I come across a B&H at least they'll have different color flares if I decide to keep both. What's a good price for... Elmoscope l, 16-D, B&H, etc...? It seems the S and plain 16 are the cheapest, then the D, H, then the B&H is the most expensive? Thanks, this doc is great.

Great information, thanks again. I must admit some version of the Bell and Howell is more appealing due to its smaller size and larger FOV. I just need to decide if it's a smarter move to wait and save for a B&H or jump in with a 16-D to get my feet wet. Anyway, thanks again for your help.

Do you know how the 16S compares to the 16D? They seem similar but the 16S are a little cheaper. I guess the Bell & Howell is the jewel of the Kowa lineup? Regarding focus... I'd rather have single focus but to start I may have to experiment with double focus until I completely build out a rig. I don't want to spend TOO much to start out in case I just don't like it (I'm sure I'll get addicted to it, though) so I'll probably hold off on a focusing unit until I'm sure. And then I may just buy one of those Rapido Cinelux kits that come with the lens and everything else and I'll swap out the focuser on the Kowa. Are there any other options I'm not aware of now that could be a decent option? I saw a couple Meopta 2x listed on eBay but I assume they're not that great. But I do have a Meopta 20mm c-mount that is actually an excellent little lens. I hadn't thought of cropping. I'm still trying to work out what kind of resolution and ratio I'll be able to get if I shoot 4:3 and want to end with a 2:39 image... so I've got a lot of research to do. That's pretty cool that the GH5s footage matched with the Mini... I'd imagine close ups are a lot easier to match, though. I read somewhere they primarily used a Panavision 32mm... but with a little digging, it seems you're right. I can't even imagine shooting with those Panavisions. I get excited when I shoot with my EF modified Canon FD 50mm 1.2 L. Haha, I probably wouldn't even know what to do with the Panavision.

That makes sense, I just noticed a few people using it on a couple videos. What camera do you use? That's pretty cool that you can intercut the Hypergonar with Panavision lenses. I think they used a Panavision 32mm in Jaws.

What's your set up? It seems that the C/Y Zeiss 85mm will be the cleanest, most cost effective solution if I want to go with a Rapido housing. Actually, it's quite possible my Rollei Zeiss 85mm is pretty close in dimensions to the C/Y version... I think they're the same lens optically with the Rollei Zeiss lacking the T coating. Also, I noticed some folks use the Samyang/Rokinon 85mm 1.4. I have the 50mm and am pretty impressed by it, so maybe that's an option as well if I have to purchase a lens. Anyway, thanks again for your help.

Oh I know about lenses and rabbit holes. Sadly. I'm thinking the same thing about the Rapido housings. The goal is to have one set up I am happy with... or maybe two... one 16-S/D and one Cinelux... shit... it's already starting. Do you know if Rapido has any plans to make more of their lens jackets? This is the stuff I need to do more research with. I've always preferred 2:35/2:39 ... I guess I have to give your guide another couple reads.

Yeah, I like the look of that a lot. As @Julien416 said, I suppose it would be a lot cleaner with a 100mm or longer lens... or maybe even with more static shots? Thanks for the videos, I have a lot more research to do, but think I may be on the right path with the either Kowa 16-D or a Blue Star/Cinelux set up. Either way, I really like the options from Rapido, so I have to crunch some numbers and see what will be the best option. Btw, is there much of a difference between the 16-D and the 16-S?

Yeah, it looks really nice but the Aivascope is definitely out of my price range. I hadn't realized how much more 1.5x scopes were and how rare. I was mostly concerned with getting the widest FOV possible, but the 50mm FF FOV is one of my favorites anyway, so I obviously need to stop fighting it. Scratch 1.5 scopes off the list. I'm just a hobbyist as well, so I appreciate your POV. In fact, you guys are really making this a lot easier and a lot less daunting than I had thought the process would be. Now I just need patience. It's not one of my stronger attributes, unfortunately.

Good to know, thanks. Obviously, I am considering taking lenses as I do my research. I have a mint Nikon 100mm series e, do they make good taking lenses. Also, I found this video on Vimeo of the 16-D with the Canon 85mm 1.8... I love the look of this. Is this a typical look of the Kowa 16-D under similar circumstances? As far as taking lenses go... I already own the Nikon 100mm and a Canon 85mm 1.8. I also have a Nikkor 85mm 1.4 (although I was planning on selling it) and a Rollei Zeiss 85mm 2.8. As much as I am willing to build the optimal rig, if I already own a useable taking lens, then that's all the better. Thanks for recommending the Rapido solution. I knew they made a focusing unit but didn't realize they make an entire line of products. Their full metal jackets are really cool. I do like the dreaminess of the 16-D and I also like the clean look from the Cinelux and Ultra Star. Hmm... decisions, decisions. Anyway, thanks for your help. I learned more this afternoon than I have the past few days trying to research this stuff on my own.

It took me a couple years of testing cameras to realize I was looking for ML Raw. And now after a couple years of testing vintage lenses, while I shoot my film on modern, native Canon lenses, I am realizing that a lot of my favorite films have been shot on anamorphics... if I could get a Jaws "look" I'd be more than happy. Good to know, thanks. I thought they could be a cheaper way into the Iscorama world, but I need less research obstacles rather than more. Didn't realize the Elmo II and the 16-H were the same lens just rebranded. Opens up a few more search options. Hmm, so with an 85mm lens with 2x anamorphic, I'd get a horizontal FOV of a 42mm lens... right? Thats not too bad, although I was hoping to go wider. Eventually, I think I'd like to find a 1.5x, although I know they're more rare. That Kowa 35 1.5x sounds like a perfect fit for what I'm looking for. I haven't considered the Ultra Star, but after looking at a few videos, it could be a good option. They're certainly reasonably priced for a starter anamorphic to experiment with. I'm sure it doesn't matter, but gold or red? I'm also seeing a lot of different branded 16-D anamorphics? It seems they're not highly recommended around here but the price of them do make them tempting. Also Kowa 16-S? It's definitely a different thought process but it sounds like a great diversion for me from obsessing over my "normal" lens collection. In fact, I'll be forced to sell some lenses, which is great... I have too many, to afford a usable quality anamorphic rig. Do you recommend going cheaper with the Ultra Star or a Kowa/Singer/Sankor to get my feet wet? Or is it just a waste of time and I'd be better off searching for a Kowa 1.5x now... or whatever scope I'd ultimately like to end up with? Thank you!!!