homestar_kevin

That's totally fair. I have a few of them and they're very solid options for the money. If that's the case, I think you may need to adjust your parameters a bit, true cine lenses are more than 2500 each, let alone for a set. Kye is also right. Are you worried about declicked apertures? Focus gears on the lenses? Uniform front filter size? If Rokinons/Samyangs are too cheap for your blood and would be an embarrassment, definitely don't get them. Take a look at the Zeiss Z series lenses. They were replaced by the Milvus line and as a result are pretty cheap now. I've been building a set of these out and have gone with the ZF.2's for Nikon mount. These are the classic zeiss designs in modern, all metal, super solid format. They have that zeiss look and are very cool. That said, they're not a uniform size, the 50mm 1.4 is small like a Nikon or vintage prime. But you can find them cinemodded by duclos. Now I think it'd be too expensive to send them in to be cinemodded by duclos on your budget, but if you look for them preowned, they've gotten pretty cheap on ebay. You could definitely get a 3-4, possibly 5 lens kit put together for your stated budget. The problem there will be obtaining longer focal lengths, they're all generally still pretty expensive. (135/2, 85/1.4, 100/2 macro)

Sounds like you should look into Rokinon/Samyang lenses. The Nikon 20mm 2.8 and 85mm f/2 are both fantastic lenses, but are also both small, which you say you don't like. The samyang/rokinon lenses are all faster aperture and bigger in size. They're widely available in a ton of mounts, cover full frame, and are cheap/easily replacable.

I legit almost bought that one, but actually stumbled into a non duclos version zf.2 for a lot less and snagged that. I can't stop buying the Zeiss ZF lenses. They're all going so so cheap right now and are very attractive to me as I've been putting together a series of more modern looking primes. In the past 8 months or so I've gotten deals I couldn't pass up on the 21mm 2.8, the 25mm 2.8, the 28mm 2.0, the 50mm 1/4 (ZF.1, but still) They've been great. The 28mm was duclos modded, had the EF Mount hard adapter, declicked iris and the 80mm OD front cap and stuff, the rest have been stock. The same guy listing the 25mm you posted sold the 50mm zf.2 Duclos modded for $400 shipped the other month. Wish I had caught that auction.

no doubt, the sony is a great deal for what it gives you. It's just an even better deal when B&H puts them on sale every once in awhile for like half off. I Can't see it the same at the normal price now lol

I bought a few Rodelink Wireless film maker sets in the past year and have been pretty happy with them. I've upgraded the stock mics to Oscar sound tech lavs, and the transmitter/receiver packs are huge/bulky, but the system has been good to me and I've been able to buy them as 'new-open box' items on ebay for under $250 a set. Then I added around $120 or so for the Oscar sound tech lav Ironfilm is correct though, those Sony packs are great. They're expensive, but so nice. They go on sale several times a year for like $400 a set or something crazy. If you can wait for that or find a deal, it's definitely a big step up from any of the 2.4 GHz stuff.

Hey everyone, I've always been content with just using individual batteries for all my gear, and still typically do. I'm used to using Sony NPF style batteries to power things like black magic cameras, LED lights, monitors, etc. But I've been accumulating more bits and pieces to the point where I'm starting to see the advantage and benefit of having everything plugged into one bigger battery more power on tap for everything. I'd mostly be powering a camera (typically just a small mirrorless), a monitor or evf, a tilta nucleus nano, Maybe an audio recorder too. I wanted to see what you were all doing to power your set ups and what you were using/sending power to. I've started piecing together an anton bauer gold mount kit, but am pretty new to this world so wanted to reach out and see where you were all at. What are your battery needs/solutions? I'm thinking about getting this LanParte Gold mount battery pinch, does anyone have experience with this? https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1100250-REG/lanparte_abp_01_a_mount_battery_pinch_and.html/?ap=y&ap=y&smp=y&smp=y&lsft=BI%3A514&gclid=CjwKCAjwqJ_1BRBZEiwAv73uwAv0u4Ab2af962lUiZB_L_EExRoBb5ob_jj7JrH9qCfnrwmMswMCYBoC50oQAvD_BwE

The tokina 2.6-2.8 is definitely one of my favorites and probably one of the lenses I've had the longest. I have no intention of selling mine, it's just so great. I'm still very happy with it. I have gotten other zooms that I use a bit more regularly these days (Nikon 28-70 2.8 and Samsung 16-50 2-2.8), but that tokina is just epic.

Sleeper typically means under the radar, or a good thing that not enough people talk about.

I just bought a used nx1 body, but that's because I already own one and all of the samsung lenses. If I were buying today, I wouldn't buy into the system unless I was absolutely sure that's what I wanted or if I found a really good deal. I'd go fuji, sony, m43, or stick with the Nikon Z stuff. Honestly, I'll probably buy into Nikon Z this year or next depending on how the system evolves. I love the samsung stuff and the results I get from it. None of it is going anywhere at this point. The lenses are all very very good. The native lenses are one of the biggest reasons I'm still with the system. They are focus by wire, but the responsiveness is adjustable in the menus and I don't mind it. The autofocus on the S Zoom lenses and some others is pretty fantastic and has been my main way of working with the camera for live events and run and gun. There's some faults to the autofocus system, but once you learn it, it's strengths are there and are very strong. You can set up peaking and turn it on or off from the menu. Then, you only need to turn the focus ring to get peaking to show up. This works with native or adapted lenses. I've hooked up monitors view HDMI and it's fine. Not great, but definitely should work fine with the zacuto EVF. The EVF and LCD on the nx1 are both really, really good. I've been very content using just those. You can hand hold the camera, but again, 95% of the time I'm using the native lenses, some of which have good IS. I love the camera, it really has been amazing and fun to use and because of my situation and the size/depth of my NX collection, I doubt I'll ever get rid of it, but we're a long time away from these cameras being new and it was discontinued when I bought into the system. It's great for what it is, but buy the Fuji or something else that's still supported/manufactured unless you get a good deal and know that this is exactly what you want.

We're working from home for the forseeable future, so I"m taking it easy and cleaning my office/gear room on the clock as 'administrative' tasks. My goal is to start taking camera walks more and to finish building out some different things. I have 3 of the Travor 3060a LED flex panels that I've worked out a rig for to put the three of them together into a 60x90 (2x3) grid and I've ordered a bunch of supplies to hook them up into different modular combinations 60x60 (2x2). I ordered some different sized quick umbrella soft boxes to mount them inside of in the various configs.

Your focal length also has a great deal of impact on performance. Some examples would be shooting scenes from further back with a more telephoto lens to create separation from the performance/actors and give them more space. The opposite is also true, if you get uncomfortably close with wide angle lenses, you'll inherently see a difference in the performance vs if you were shooting from a more comfortable distance.

I'm left wondering when NAB will be affected/cancelled

That jumped out at me too! Pretty great episode if you're a side sitter

I've done these ride along style shoots a few times with gopros and here's my experience. We've used 3 or 4 gopro hero 5's I think and monitor them via gopro's phone app while driving behind in a follow car. You can still get connection if you're not in the vehicle, but it's as spotty as you'd think it'd be. It worked, but you do have lag and dropouts. That said, the cameras kept rolling and recording, so The app is more to just make sure you're still rolling. Plan and lock off your shots before you truly start shooting. We kept an audio field recorder in the talent car with mics on talent and lav mics clipped to the cars sun visors. We took a line out from the audio recorder and put it into a sennheiser G3 wireless transmitter. We plugged the g3 receiver into an aux line in in the follow car so we could hear and monitor the conversation in the talent car. We also had a camera shooting out of the window in the follow car to highlight what the talent was talking about in the surrounding neighborhood.

Hey, Sorry for the late reply, just saw your post. That is a C/Y mount Zeiss 50mm 1.4 with a C mount adapter. If you push the little silver button/lever on the back of the lens down or back (towards the rear of the lens), you should be able to unmount the lens from the C mount adapter. After it's loose from the adapter you can get other adapters to mount it onto your Samsung NX, Canon EOS, or pretty much any other camera you'd buy in the future.

Does your current job use adobe CC suite for photo processing/editing? If so, I'd recommend learning premiere. Honestly though, as a beginning editor, just learn any of the major programs and start doing some work. At a certain point you'll get some basics and learn how to make the editor do what you want it to do. At that point, you can transfer your knowledge to other editing programs as needed. Hot key shortcuts and processes can be different between the different programs, but learning how to edit on any of them will give you a huge leg up if you want/need to learn another program in the future.

Ah nice! Had seen some rumors the past few days that it might be removed. I can definitely see the appeal of this for anyone that has older nikon lenses or has a current d750. I'm not interested in it at the launch price, but give it a few months.

I can't seem to find this answer anywhere, does this have a focus motor for AF and AF-D lenses, or did they take that out?

Yeah, I was somewhat tempted to buy a z6 and z50 and just go with that combo for awhile. I only have 2 DX nikon lenses (nikon 18-200, tokina 11-16) but it'd be fun to be in the Z ecosystem and adapt all my other random mount lenses to Z. Did you buy your Z6 as body only or with the 24-70? Honestly it sounds dumb, but I probably would've bought a Z6 around new years if it wasn't for having the buy XQD cards to run it on.

Great stuff. Glad to hear/see the z6 keys well when recording internally. I'm pretty close to buying one, think I probably will sometime this year. Congrats on the new camera and great job!

Yup, just snagged a tascam dr10l. It's white, but it was $130, so I can deal.

I've just seen the adorama reviews for the 300, which pretty much seem good. It's really really bright, It seems way brighter than the ilumi 120 and the a friends aputure 120dii, but I've only done very preliminary tests/tire kicking with the lights. Can't speak to how it compares with a true 300d, but I can say it seems like one of the best options at the price and I'm happy with the purchase so far and look forward to using it and figuring out more about it Definitely recommended

I've been really getting into CLAR brand lights from adorama. CLAR seems to be a house brand they're using to sell various Chinese lighting products. They have the Ilumi Max 120 and 300, which I've gotten one of each. The 120 is bicolor and my 300 is 5600k Daylight balanced. The 300 has a pretty big power brick/ballast with fans and stuff, but the output is incredible. The 120 seems great too. I haven't put these through long term tests, more just unboxing and initial impressions, but they're absolutely awesome. For the price of an aperture 300d mkII, I've gotten the 120, the 300, a 31" china ball bowens modifier, a 38" parabolic bowens softbox, and a fresnel lens attachment. The softboxes both seem awesome and are both easy set up models. The fresnel lens I'm not sure of. It's not a glass fresnel lens up front, but the Lenticular Lens that is there is nice and the unit is pretty good, especially for the price. The fresnel is an area I may buy the aperture brand modifier, but I'm very very happy with everything else I've bought from them.

Oh man, Congrats! I remember buying the nx1 around the same time as you and I've been heavily considering the z6 as I have a lot of Nikon glass. I think I may try and pick up a second nx1 and ride that out for another year or so before snagging a FF mirrorless. Thanks for the report and I'm glad the z6 is looking good. Definitely let me know when you put the nx1 up for sale, I may snag it from you.

New FD, nFD is the generally accepted name for the revised versions of all the FD lenses. They came out after the Breech Lock SSC series stuff and are a bit more compact, black and plastic. New FD is what I've always heard them called though *Shrug*