Sekhar

He's fine, saw his response to Herbert Massey earlier...thought he'd post back here, but I guess he didn't.

Just wanted to report back that I ended up getting the Sirui T-025X. It's the lightest and shortest, which were key for me. Overall, the build quality is excellent. The legs are tiny, but if you don't extend the center column, the tripod is surprisingly stable (tried with NX1 + vertical grip + 16-50 as well as 70-200). It's especially strong in controlling twist. I took a (30s) exposure, which seems OK, but will continue to experiment. You can technically do a pan for video, but the movement is a bit sticky and you will see the wobble with long focal lengths, though I got some decent shots with wide angle. FYI, below are the others I researched, in case you're also shopping. TypeLoad (lb)Folded (in)Weight (lb)Min HeightMax HeightMax Height (E)SpecialB&HGiottos VGR8255-S2NCarbon8.815.62.810.656.364.9Monopod, bubble277.00Sirui T-025XCarbon13.211.81.710.248.654.5 234.95Mefoto A1350Q1KAluminum17.615.43.615.453.161.6Monopod, bubble199.00Oben CT-3521Carbon6.614.82.48.849.556.4Monopod, bubble259.95Oben CT-3531Carbon8.815.52.59.353.560.8Monopod, bubble279.95Oben CT-3551Carbon13.2162.6954.862.4Monopod, bubble299.953 Legged Thing EVO3Carbon4413.42.97.4 58.9Monopod, bubble249.953 Legged Thing Punks-RickCarbon2212.62.78.244.356.7Monopod, bubble220.15Velbon Ultra REXi LAluminum8.814.22.93.7 60 N/AAnd below are a couple of pictures comparing the Sirui T-025X with my Sachtler Ace-M to give you an idea of its size (extended and folded).

​Forget about NX1 bug report site, I didn't even find NX1 in the list of cameras when I tried reporting. I did write to them asking to include NX1, but got a generic response...will try again. Their telephone support, like a lot of support these days, has been terrible for me (tried twice): they don't seem to be trained in the camera at all and keep asking you to reset the camera for everything. If there's one ding for NX1, it's the Samsung support as of now. Marco, about the color chart, was there something specific you wanted to test with NX1? As a general procedure, I don't see how it is camera specific. Also, IMO charts like this are of limited use unless you shoot in controlled environments like a studio. Outdoors, the lighting keeps changing between shots, forcing you to custom correct them by eye balling in post to match. For that reason, chart procedure is next to useless for video as well.

​Google actually uses its own codec VP9 for 4K, it's a rival to HEVC/H.265. This CNET article has some info on the current status if you're interested.

​Technical stuff aside, your video looks fun and energetic. How did you get your models to be playful and make those dance gestures? Was there music on location?

OK, this is crazy. Now my key mapping is getting lost on removing battery (custom wheel mapped to ISO), but the DR customization stays! I tried it three times, same result. Anyone else experiencing bizarre behavior with battery change? This is making me nervous because the behavior seems unpredictable.

I don't know if this was in earlier firmware versions too, but if you remove the battery some settings are getting lost in 1.30. I noticed it with gamma setting: if you set your gamma as DR and customize it (e.g., set sharpness to -10), then after your remove/add battery the setting remains in DR but the customization goes away (in this case sharpness gets reset to 0). So till we get a fix, watch out when replacing battery. If you guys notice any other setting getting reset, please post here.

OK, I can't figure out whether to take your advice and not take your advice or not take your advice and take your advice!

bluefonia and Cinegain: thanks for the REXi suggestion. Though it's a tad longer and heavier than I hoped, looks like it'll work. One potential showstopper though is that you seem to need to unscrew at the bottom of the legs, which is a problem when using in muddy areas (saw it on this YouTube review). My immediate need is for a trip to Costa Rica, where I plan to go through the rain forests. Did you have trouble with muddy areas? bunk: that's really good to know, I wonder if the carbon fiber version is better, at least in twisting. I will definitely explore that aspect. The weight/folded length of T-025X is really tempting. ZachGoodwin: the thing is that I really need an ultra-lightweight tripod since I will be hiking quite a bit. I already have two good video legs/heads (Ace-M and a Manfrotto set), but they're way too heavy. The head you mentioned (Weifeing 717AH) is over 2 lb by itself apparently, and the Manfrotto 190X3 is nearly 6 lb, so won't help in this particular case. FYI, I ran into Giottos VGR8255-S2N today - it seems a bit sturdier than the Sirui T-025X and to bunk's point should help a bit with stability. And very importantly for me, it also extends higher. Plus, you can convert one of the legs into a monopod apparently. I will keep researching and post back my findings as appropriate for the benefit of other shoppers who run into a similar need. Thanks all.

Sorry, this is a double-post, not sure how it happened. Please respond in the other thread. Thanks!

And a pan to check the dynamic range, also from Indian Canyons. I shot this handheld, so stabilized it in post, but it's otherwise untouched. I don't believe there is any change to DR in 1.30.

Here's a 120 fps clip I shot yesterday at the Indian Canyons. Ungraded.

Guys, I'm looking for a lightweight tripod, ideally carbon fiber, around 2 lb, 1 foot or so folded, and under $300, with enough load capacity to hold a light camera (mostly NX1 + vertical grip + 16-50). Any suggestions or experiences to share? The Sirui T-025X is looking really good at this point, but I'm little concerned about the max height.

Guys, I'm looking for a lightweight tripod, ideally carbon fiber, around 2 lb, 1 foot or so folded, and under $300, with enough load capacity to hold a light camera (mostly NX1 + vertical grip + 16-50). Any suggestions or experiences to share? The Sirui T-025X is looking really good at this point, but I'm little concerned about the max height.

​Yes, DR is independent of sharpness, so you'll need to set sharpness separately. If you zoom in, you will see artifacts at the edges if you shoot at sharpness 0, and that goes away at -10 (it did in my tests anyway). You can always sharpen in post if you wish, but with the 4K image out of NX1, I don't see any need unless you crop. Also, AFAIK sharpening in camera increases its information content, which stresses the encoder because there's more info (spurious, but still more) to encode within the same bandwidth. So, low sharpness will help improve final IQ that way as well.

​Well, the L is a different beast: carbon legs, higher load cap, taller, etc. The tripod weights aren't too different and M is all I need from a load cap, etc. viewpoint, so M is still the obvious choice for me.

I have the ACE M and am really happy with it. It's sturdy, you can move the head all you like and the legs stay put, nice. Not sure how much of that is due to the spreaders. The height is decent, but not super high, make sure you're OK with it. The head is excellent, extremely smooth, its the part I like most about the tripod. And the drag (horizontal and vertical) drag is great and really useful - your camera will stay put at any angle. Leveling with the lever below the head is convenient, but there's no light for the bubble - I was at Joshua Tree last night and had to guess the level. Hope that helps.

Charts are great for stills, but in video the image is continuously changing, with usually varying lighting. E.g., if a camera pans, are you going to put your chart in beginning of the pan or the end? Unless your lighting is relatively uniform, charts are kind of useless IMO. Obviously you'd typically want to color balance while recording, but it'll almost always be necessary to eye-ball the shot as you correct in post, which is really simple anyway unless the recording format makes it hard. Which brings us to the necessity to record in a way that allows for flexibility in grading (RAW, log, 10/12 bit, etc.).

Where did you see talk of everything at 0 in the thread? Unfortunately I can't open the attachment links, they seem to be only for subscribed users. When I set sharpness to 0, I saw artifacts at the edges when blown up, -10 looked more natural/organic. You're not seeing any issues? Other than that and contrast at -5, I've found the same as you did.

​His 10-18 is an EF-S (not EF), and he doesn't seem to know of EF-S/NX adapters. OP: they exist (e.g., this and this), but you might want to Google for more.

Well, it depends on what you're expecting and what matters to you most. If you tweak the settings, the latitude is pretty good (see my post NX1 Dynamic Range Settings, I got some decent footage yesterday with these settings), but if you want ultra-wide latitude and super low light performance, yeah A7s makes more sense - just remember all the things you give up (28MP vs 10MP stills, better colors, functional auto-focus, built-in 4K, etc.). In any case it's going to be a big step-up from t2i (I can't even think of using my t2i or my 6D any more for video). There are head to head NX1 vs. A7s comparisons online you might want to check out if you're considering both.

Sandro, I got the NX1 recently, and it's incredible. Do get the 16-50 at some point, I have it, and it makes shooting so easy. WRT using Canon lenses, make sure your adapter can support EF-S lenses (I believe you're referring to the 18-55 Canon EF-S lens).

​May be he was born in the 1980's, and obviously nothing existed before that!

​Yes, but my question was "Why do you want to make your video look like film in the first place?" As I said, if it's just for the love of film, end of discussion. But if it's to ape Hollywood big-budget films, it seems like the wrong reason.

One thing I don't get in these "Make video look like film" discussions is WHY? Is it for the big-budget Hollywood look? Or the love of film? If it's to mimic Hollywood and pass off as a bigwig by association, IMO it's misguided. Like getting a Michael Keaton haircut because you want to act like him. What would really help are discussions on how to make video look GOOD rather than LIKE FILM. That will focus the thinking on lighting, composition, set design, and the like (that many videos seem to get wrong) rather than adding grain and vignettes. There is a thread along these lines (Would You Watch A Movie Like This?), where Jonesy Jones posted an excellent example, and there are some interesting points being made. We really need more threads like that.