SMGJohn

What was the lightning conditions where you filmed and what kind of ISO did you use? I find that the camera really struggles at higher ISO's with autofocus in video mode for no reasons whatsoever, in very very poor lighting conditions it struggles with focusing specially with soft textures, at 1.4 aperture I would not really recommend to use autofocus with any camera.

@lucabutera Is the Samsung NX speedbooster no longer available for purchase?

I never manage it to get over 140mbps with the autofocus on

Very nice, a tip for colour grading? Colours are subjective, grade what you think looks nice really, I personally think it looks great, there are no set rules to what is the right and wrong way of doing things, some people like sharp and plastic looking images others like grainy and soft images with strong colours like me.

Not necessarily, lasers can damage the sensor in multiple ways really, the more common ones are killing pixels but destroying the RGB channels can also occur, it should be common sense to never point your camera in the direction of lasers specially at night when you need as much light as possible, a powerful laser can fry your sensor in microseconds. Example of laser killing vertical and horizontal lines on a Canon 5DMII:

The a6300 has way better high ISO perfromance and should have slightly better dynamic range in video thanks to S-LOG2, S-LOG3 is not very good in my experience because it compresses the footage WAY too much for an 8bit video.

This looks like an issue that can rarely occur when sensor has been hit by a green laser or something equally strong, please note that it may not be your case but I read about people who had this issue after having their camera being hit by a green laser accidentally and killed their R and B channels or damaged them. Please try this without the auto white balance to see if it may be an issue with the white balance going haywire which can also be the case. It can also be sensor manufacturing faults, it can happen if they did not properly construct the sensor damaging the R and B channels specially if they are not connected properly they just randomly turn on and off.

Wish someone who worked in Samsung camera department would accidentally leak the developer tools

Camera shuts down when it gets too hot, I tested this by simply turning down the number for when it should shutdown in case of overheating with that Dev menu you can access with 1.40 and below. Yes a shame no one tries to unlock even more or hack it for real like magic lantern, but there a huge amount of great cameras coming in 2017 effectively making it pointless to hack the NX1 unless you really want to as a side project or something. Strange how no one from Samsung camera department has leaked any developers tool

So far the best hack that I have used is the good old Vasile's NX1 & NX500 Pro Bitrate Adjustment v5.3 as its the quickest of them all and according to Vasile the safest. The Kino Seed hack is feature rich however, its got a lot of features most of them are photo oriented but its the slowest one and its the only one still in development. I do not use it because most of its features are pointless for me and its slow on startups, it takes time before it activates like a few seconds for me its not good enough as I need quick speed all the time. Stability wise I cannot really tell the difference between either, people seem to have more luck than me getting high bitrate to work, I am stuck with 140mbps or 150mbps no matter what card I use even the fastest SD card in the world still wont let me do more than 160mbps until it tells me the card is too slow. I think it has to do with the autofocus using processing power, if you turn the autofocus off however you can do pretty high bitrates. Uninstallation wise? Both are very easy, Vasile's hack is definitely harder to install and requires patience but the Kino Seed is quick and painless definitely the easiest to use out of any of them. Early on in the development there were a few bricked cameras however Samsung fixed them for the users, Vasile and Kino put safety measurements into place after this and while I had freezes a very rare moment, nothing serious other than that. Quality wise there is a difference, but do not expect RAW video quality, grade wise I would also say there is a difference however again both cameras are pretty terrible at high ISO in video so keep it below 800 in 1080p and below 2000 ISO in 2160p and you should get pretty good results with the hack, the NX500 with the 1440p mode has no noise reduction, I had good results with that at 3200ISO. I run test of 160mbps no autofocus or stabilisation to see how long the camera recorded, it recorded for 70+ minutes before the camera refuses to record more even with unlocked timer, not quite sure why but it recorded for 3 days straight in MJPEG and no overheating issue if you plug the camera into the wall. Only complaint I have is Kino Seed hack being slow at startups, and Vasile hack being slightly silly to install at first try, other than that they are definitely worth it and will give more life into your camera.

Great cause Norway has 25% import tax, makes me cry tears everytime.

Do you ship it as a gift?

Please tell us your computer + specifications like CPU, GPU and amount of memory also what is the material on? SSD or HDD? What version of Windows are you using or Mac OS X/MacOS? Also if possible please use MediaInfo to see the proper video information sometimes Quicktime only gives you the highest peak bitrate which might be inaccurate, you would want the average bitrate.

Yes just reflash the old firmware and its back to the old one.

Oh man another great player, my wallet is on fire!

Good thing you can remove the battery on the NX1 imao, seeing how my Sony Xperia Z is heating up considerable these days from just playing games and draining the battery in literally 7 minute, I am never going to buy a phone again with a non-removable battery.

Sounds like an error you have to take up with the guy who made the hack, normally you could get into the advanced settings by pressing a few button sequences and disable it there which requires no hack whatsoever.

Imao a lot about the NX1 was done good, now I am not quite a big fan of the on/off button and the 16-50mm F2-2.85 is a bit meh in how you zoom in and out and focus by electric wiring. But really you have to nitpick on the NX1 and of course the infamous in-camera noise reduction in video kicking into high gears at 2000 ISO. NX1 in-camera colours are unparalleled, handles nicely and shoots nice pictures and videos with epic colours. It will be interesting to see what Panasonic did to the GH5 internally and to see the new Sony line, hopefully Sony learned A LOT about their past humongous mistakes like shitty menus and horrid ergonomics they still have not figured out their A line are HUGE cameras too.

It is a cheap adapter and these cheap no branded ones are usually horrible, better just go with the full steel ones like Novoflex which have amazing adapters, fotodiox is okayish if you want cheap and do not care for build quality as much, there no other solution to this issue other than the video one, you said the hack one wont solve your problem which is weird it lets me take pictures when I select it and remove the lens, which hack do you use?

Real shame Samsung tossed their cameras to the side like a pair of used shoes, I loved to see the NX2 but the Fuji looks amazing I just wish they upped the video aspect even more.

Try something with a lot of people and shitload of details, I like to see how it would look, also even JPEG at lower res burst looks astonishing and far better than 1080p sometimes even better than 2160p

They are both picture profiles, I have an entire document of various in camera colour settings I just collected over the year. I might upload it one day, but right now I am just too damn lazy to put together all those billion videos I filmed with the camera testing out various colour profiles, maybe I will get on doing it this month or maybe next month I dunno there is a nice thread were people talk about the in camera settings here I will link it to you. Have fun it is quite informative

Better get old vintage prime glass instead of the modern Samsung ones you loose out on autofocus and stabilisation but I never liked these clinically clean looks anyway just my personal opinion on the matter it also is more cost effective since vintage glasses can be reused, Samsung glass cannot be currently anyway.

The NX1 generally struggles like mad in conditions like these if you try to fuck around with too fancy colours, I speak from experience although that was before the hack so 80mbps it could be different with twice the bitrate on that for all I know I never fully tested it. I would suggest these settings, I only use in camera colours these days because they are too damn good not to be used even the normal one is a beast. Alternatively you can try these I suggest you avoid Vivid or Gamma C indoor because these are way too contrasty unless you got some serious speedy glass on there

@lucabutera Is it more expensive and complex to make the conversion board fit inside the mount or was it just made so that it is easier to adapt to the dumb mount?