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Everything posted by John Matthews
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IMO, many people just do it to justify their FF cameras and f/1.2 lens. It can look lazy, stupid, and cliché nowadays. For me, I go for everything in focus when it looks good; otherwise, I aim for f/2.8-f/5.6 on S35 (f/2-f/4 on M43)- there's a reason this has been a standard for such a long time- it looks right and like the films I enjoy. I also use AF-S, but sometimes I try AF-C.
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Good to know. I also have a E-M1 ii with PDAF in video. It's true that it just seems to work. Currently, I'm trying to test the best settings for limiting the pulsing on the GH6. What I've noticed so far is that when I do handheld anything, the pulsing isn't that noticeable. If there aren't any specular highlights or lights in the background, it isn't that noticeable either. So, I'm trying to figure out what works in other situations (most likely just MF). The thing is when AF settings become super complicated, I think I'd just rather go with MF all the time. I was so put-off watching Philip Bloom's "Manual Autofocus" video on Sony that I just said "screw it". What settings do you use on your G9? In what situation?
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That's pretty much it. Messing around with my gh2, it would do CAF just fine with the right lens and simple background. The Achilles heel is of course the constant back-and-forth pulsing on highlights. The strange thing is that I rarely noticed it on my Olympus CDAF systems, only Panasonic DFD. Is it possible that Olympus figured it out but Panasonic never did, even with all the protests from users?
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Does anyone else have any thoughts on the conclusions from Caleb Hoover's video concerning the GH6 and S5ii?
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Olympus specifically made a feature for 20MP raw stills at 60fps with Pro Capture. Just press the shutter when you think you saw something and you'll get a bunch of RAW stills going back in time. This was available going back to the E-M1 ii (2016). However, it doesn't offer continuous AF.
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It looks like the imaging-resource.com is now being forwarded to https://www.outdoorphotographer.com. I wasn't of that site before though. It looks like a lot of the content from imaging-resource is at the new site. I'm hoping I can find the lens review stuff as that was my favorite part about it.
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Panasonic GM1 review - another pocket cinema camera
John Matthews replied to Andrew Reid's topic in Cameras
I had the E-M5 iii, which is about the same and it was great, but a little too big. I think it's more of a "one and done" type camera, great at everything. I've moved on from that and now I have my "does everything camera" and a "small as you can get camera". The GX800 is 270g and the OM-5 is 414g, but it has everything. On the OM-5, I don't want an EVF, but it gives tonnes of value for only 144g and a little bulk. I almost prefer the EP-7 at only 337g (but still has bulk). One reason I've moved away from Olympus is that I find Panasonic and Olympus hard to match in post. Then again, even some Panasonic cameras are hard to match. -
Panasonic GM1 review - another pocket cinema camera
John Matthews replied to Andrew Reid's topic in Cameras
I have a gx800 that I dropped and now the screen doesn't work at all. Today, I figured out how to connect via wifi and use it with my phone. I just shoot in 4k photo mode with everything locked in, including with tripod. The overheating is a serious handicap, but when you think of how long you'd get with film, it's not so bad. Still a good choice for distance shots or a crash cam. I really wish they'd make a new version of it with better thermals and full-sensor readout with PDAF and a mic jack... it would be a winner. -
Sony lack of firmware updates is getting completely ridiculous!
John Matthews replied to Amazeballs's topic in Cameras
Also "firmware updates" are synonymous with "new bodies" in Sony land. -
Does anyone have a copy of 5DtoRGB to share?
John Matthews replied to John Matthews's topic in Cameras
Unfortunately, I also only have the lite version. Just so you know, you might get even better results from Topaz Video AI. -
It's been a challenge to find relevant content on a second angle. Primarily, it's a backup, as I do with most of my gear. I use my iPad pro for taking notes and it's become the most essential part of my online classes, making them much more like one-to-one in person classes. I admit the GH2s are especially for dialing in my exposure and look. This way, I avoid the "webcam" hot highlights on my face- doubt my students care though... it's just me. Yes, I use 2 cameras for the possibility of stills, which are less important to me, but still important. I just haven't found a way to capture a moment without using 2 cameras. I used the GH6 with the Pany 9mm and the G100 with the Oly 17mm Pro. I find the setup is still too heavy for 25+ minutes. My NDs are also too big and heavy. The GH6 grip and the tripod grip for the G100 saved the day. Once again, here's another case for small cameras and lenses.
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I took out the GH6 today on my annual Easter egg hunt... basically it was the same conditions as last year when I took out the E-M5 iii. The footage was similar on both cameras, but I'd give the overall image results to the GH6 due to dynamic range (DR boost on and V-LOG versus flat on the Olympus). The AF had fewer misses with the E-M5 iii (continuous on both). IBIS was probably a draw. I should also note that my footage seemed good on the Olympus because I wasn't operating 2 cameras at the same time (G100 with selfie grip for photos in the left hand and GH6 in the right hand for video). I find that "hybrid shooting" just means you get some good videos and some good photos of the moment, but never both and that's why I'm moving into one-handed cameras now.
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Thanks for you response. I actually had a technical question: what's the difference between the terms "pixel binned" and "line skipped"? On many Panasonic cameras, my understanding is that the 1080p image is devised of 4x4 or 6x6 blocks of pixels to make one pixel. This is unlike the GH6 which "down-samples" a 6k-ish image to 1080p. Personally, I don't see a huge difference in quality, maybe just moiré patterns (but that could just be the processing). With the A7rii 1080p (FF) image, it did line-skipping which left many more aliasing and moiré problems... still, it wasn't bad. With the GH2's HDMI, it offers a 50i image output, but the Atem puts it back to a 25p image that looks decent without any interlacing. I suspect it's simple due to the AVCHD codecs of the day when 25p wasn't actually possible, only 50i. My RX100 (mark 1) had something similar. So what exactly does "pixel binned" mean?
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I still use 2 GH2's for live 1080p 25fps stuff... English classes that I get paid for. Super happy with them and they seem good enough when used with an ATEM Mini. For personal stuff, I use the GH6 and a G100 for travel. I'll be selling my E-M1 ii this next week if I can get 400-ish Euros for it. The rest of my cameras are either film or just broken broken.
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Now it is a surprise - DPReview is closing
John Matthews replied to Marcio Kabke Pinheiro's topic in Cameras
Yep. It's about the money, not the content. -
Now it is a surprise - DPReview is closing
John Matthews replied to Marcio Kabke Pinheiro's topic in Cameras
Petapixel has got to be one of the most product-pushy websites in the photography world. I reckon they push a new product every 2 or 3 posts. The site is unusable without an adblocker (although that might have changed... I use an adblocker). Am I the only one who finds that Chris and Jordan going to Petapixel quite a strange choice if they were hoping for any degree of non-bias in their reviews? Also, the user-base (in the comments) seems so toxic. Petapixel is just a blog after all or maybe they're changing? -
In France during the Black Friday week, Panasonic offered 400 euros cash back, a SanDisk Extreme 1tb SSD, and an extra year of warranty for 1579 euros. The deal was available for about 2 days from selected online stores. The price sent up to 1779 with 200 euros cash back after, then 1979 euros. On this forum, people were bitching about not getting the GH6 initial deal and how Panasonic's marketing practices are suck because they didn't get the deal. Essentially, that's it.
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Or do you mean local fraud department?
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I thought I'd let everyone know that Panasonic did send me a SanDisk 1tb SSD and gave me 400 euros off the 1579 Euro Black Friday price. It's one of the best deals I've ever received for a new camera with those features. I'm super happy with the GH6 and its unique features. It really goes to show that pays to jump on those Panasonic Black Friday deals as some people were not as lucky as me.
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Sorry... I meant "single shot AF", which is what the "S" refers to. "C" refers to "continuous AF, or servo mode". "Single point AF" is refers using just 1 point for the focus. Single point focus is the most accurate. Face/human/eye AF is also very accurate as long as it chooses the correct person, etc but the camera is doing some of the work. With single point AF, you tell the camera exactly where to focus. Four people off in the distance (4 meters away), it might not matter so much. I would NOT use ALL AREA. 1 AREA, or single point is what you want.
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Yes. You need the camera to only use Single-Point AF, or "S". Also, in the video [FOCUS] menu, turn "Continuous AF" to "OFF", not Mode 1 or Mode 2. the camera will focus on what you want when you half-press the shutter button and it won't change the focus until you half-press again.
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Not better at 25fps in any significant way and that includes ISO performance IMO. However, the GH6 torches the GH5 in high frame rates.
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Ok, in this case, I'd use a higher f-stop of at least f/4 on the GH6. At 4-6 meters away, you'll hit the hyper focal distance of many focal lengths. What lens are you using? You could use any of the AF modes; but, for people, it's logical to use human detect. Also, as long as the people are small in the frame, I'd use Single Point AF, not Continuous AF as they're so far away and this would eliminate any hunting (you could also use manual AF).
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The function you're looking for is the AEL/AFL lock. If you shoot manually or without Auto ISO, there's no point. The is really just a way to lock exposure and focus quickly and efficiently. It's far less effective if you're working with ND filters or care about a proper shutter speed. 1) On the GH6, you can configure almost any button, but I chose the exposure compensation button. Turn on AF / AE Lock Hold and set a custom button to AEL / AFL. That should work. 2) It depends on the lighting situation. For lowish light situations, it should work. Outside, it cannot replace the ND filter approach. 3) I don't really care so much about SS. I'm not a pro and I'd just rather capture the moment.
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Your colors will be different with a GH6, arguably much better. Also, the headline feature is 120fps 4k... not many cameras can do it and it's a significant upgrade from line-skipped 1080p 120fps on most cameras. There's just no replacement. GH5/s/ii can do almost everything. A GH6 has better colors, amazing codecs and 120fps 4k down-sampled. More than ever, cameras don't really matter except for specialized tasks. I think it's good to have some solid cameras with decent output; for the rest, you can rent.