John Matthews

I plan on it. I was hoping to do more with the Olympus E-P7 (weighing in at 337g, 5-axis IBIS), as it's a fairly unique camera allowing for full-saturation control of 12 colors (like the Pen F), yet it shoots 4k (unlike the Pen F). Granted, you need to use the AEL button in order to have manual control with those color options, and only available in photo mode. Previous Olympus cameras have surprised me with how good IQ was (E-M1 ii, E-M10 iii, E-M10 iv, E-PL9, E-PL10). Anyway, I had to send it back for warranty-related issues regarding the IBIS (I was getting better results WITHOUT using it than WITH using it around 1/15s). I have to also say my interaction with OM Digital Solutions has been excellent. We'll see if it gets fixed later this month.

Maybe. The fact remains that there's no other solution at the moment. Also, let's remember that the DMC-GWC1 wasn't just ANY wide-angle converter, it's the one that Panasonic specifically designed for 2 lenses: the 14-42 PZ (at 14mm) and the 14mm f/2.5. I've heard of it working on others too (like my Olympus 14-42 EZ), but not officially. With the Panasonic 15mm f/1.7, it supposedly works, but it'll only get you to 12mm f/1.7... might at well get the Olympus 12mm f/2.0 and save weight. If you were to tell me in 2012 that there would be no other solution to this in 2022, I would have called you crazy. Of course, M43 manufacturers would have found something in 10 years. Sadly, it doesn't look like it'll EVER happen.

Bingo. You win @homestar_kevin! Congrats to bragging rights. Indecently, how do you like your Sony VCL-ECU1? I checked out some videos on it, but most people just said they got it because the DMC-GWC1 wasn't for sale anymore. I had been looking for a used one for roughly 4 years (off and on). I finally found one a few weeks ago and the guy wanted a direct transfer... (a bit risky) but I did it and he followed through. As I mentioned above, I cannot believe that we don't have a better solution as this set up dates back to 2012. I saw a few others available over the years, but they were just asking too much or they were too far away. Here it is on my GM1 (as my Olympus E-P7 had to go into the shop for IBIS recalibration). The AF is working almost flawlessly on my E-M1 ii with tracking and face-detect on. I have to make a few more tests, but I like what I see. Also, as it was designed for this lens, everything is super easy to take on and off. I'm going to try adding some ND on it now, but it should be a challenge as there are no filter threads (nothings perfect).

No AF is a deal-breaker this trivia game. 🙂

You're getting VERY close...

Nope. That one isn't 150g or less. I'm sure it's a great lens, but at $1700 and almost 700g. Try again.

In the spirit of M43 geekery, I'm asking you this question: What is the only M43 native lens, under 150g, capable of wider than 12mm, yet has AF and a wider aperture than f/2.8? It would seem the demand would be high for such a lens. I cannot believe that it's 2022 and I believe there's only one. What is it?

Merry Christmas, Andrew. I'm stoked that you've decided to continue to put your valuable time and energy in to this site. I've been here since 2015 and have really enjoyed the interaction. Can't wait to see what you have in store. Thank you for all your past hard work.

In short, it works well on the E-M1 ii with the 14mm and 20mm isn't so great at CAF work, only SAF.

I have the 20mm 1.7 too. I've always thought the 20mm had a little sharper images, but the slow AF meant it was hit or miss to get the shot in the first place. Not so with the 14mm and I've always found the AF to perform very well (for photos). I'm going to test it out on my E-m1 ii and E-P7 to see if there's really that much difference with my experience on the GX80 in video AF. For photos, I can tell you that I'm not so worried with using up to ISO 3200. They cleaned up so well with DXO PhotoLab 5 (made my gx80 shots look like ISO 200). I've also seen some good results from YouTubers on that. Again, curious to see the performance on the E-M1 ii with its PDAF.

FYI- I'm repurchasing the Panasonic 14mm F2.5 II. That lens with its size was too hard to resist. It wasn't a need, but I took so many good photos with it and I will probably never let it go again. Definitely unique in M43.

If you'd like PDAF in M43 land with similar size and weight as a GX80, the only thing is the Olympus E-M5 iii, but you'd need to pay about 650 to 750 euros on the used market. I don't know the ZV1, but my guess would be the IBIS isn't as good, but AF performance would be similar.

Just have both. You can find a GX80 for $250 on the used market. IMO, AF is really important for Youtubers (and even then it's debatable). Sure, technologically speaking, it's great, but you're going to still have limitations with it. I think it's better to work around known limitations than hoping for AF to work (yes, even on Sony cameras).

So I received the Panasonic 45-150 (newer version) and I can say it's better than the Olympus 40-150 f/4-5.6 if you were wondering. It's better built, comes with a lens hood and has IS... for only 10 grams more... also about the same price on the used market. I have a Sears 70-210 FF lens (Cosina crap maybe?)... it's good for Lomography or "who cares" type shots, but well built. I much prefer the more modern results.

I've seen those charts and I simply wouldn't read too much into them as they usually have the stock settings on their tested cameras. Unfortunately, the stock settings aren't the best settings for detail, rendering those charts useless unless the compared cameras have decent stock settings. In the case of the GX80 (at least in 4k), the stock settings sucked. That sounds like a good combo. I've got a similar situation in that I have an E-M1 ii, a GM1, an E-P7, and a GH2. My idea has always been to have a two-camera setup- one portable, one for all-weather and anything important. In my case, the GH2 is for a live streaming setup and the E-P7 is for pure fun. My GM1 is simply the most portable camera that can handle my M43 lenses.

Have you tried the GX800? Are they vastly superior to the GM1 (which I have and is much lighter and smaller)? My feeling is the GX800 isn't as good as the GM1 because it shares the same sensor and processor as the GX80 (agreed rather soft at 1080p and that's why I never shot with it at 1080p-4k only). The G9 and GH5 are also in another league in terms of bulk and weight.

I'd like a kit that goes to 150mm on M43. I've tried the Olympus 40-150, but I've decided I'll no longer accept plastic mounts because I think it was deteriorating with every use. I had the Panasonic 45-150 before and sold, but I saw it for the same amount as what the Olympus cost me; so, I decided to back to it. I was always happy with the results before and it has a metal mount. Also, it has IS which is useful on my GM1 (albeit big on that body). Those Yedlin comments also made an impact on me. There are simply more important things in video-making than resolution once you get to the point of people not noticing a lack of resolution. You're right about it being fiddly for change aperture, but I don't use that focal length enough to justify 3x the price... it would become my most expensive focal length (that I fear I wouldn't use that much). I love the way the SLR Magic renders though... it gives 3d pop (in video) that I don't get with other lenses I own when used in the right light. At 150 Euros (new and what I paid for it), it's a great bargain. It works well on my Olympus bodies. That should be a good combo.

Forgot to answer all your question. The GX80 had the 14mm f/2.5, 25mm f/1.7, and 45-150mm f/4-5.6. After having sold everything in 2019, I'm repurchasing the 45-150mm f/4-5.6 and planning to repurchase the 14mm f/2.5 (for the size on my GM1) I currently have too many lenses: Olympus: 17mm f/1.8, 14-42 ez, 12-40 pro, 75mm f/1.8. Panasonic: 14-42 pz, 20mm f/1.7 SLR MAGIC: 8mm f/4 Of all these lenses, I prefer the Olympus 17, 75, and SLR MAGIC 8mm. I could do almost everything I do with these lenses.

With the GX80, I was filming the same stuff I film today: just family and home video (in fact, my most important footage to me). Nowadays, I do a lot more live streaming as I teach English more and more over Skype (currently using a GH2 connected to a Atem Mini with a mixer and AT 875 R shotgun mic). For a long time I was obsessed with detail as my previous cheap camcorders and gen 1 DSLRs just didn't cut the mustard, but now I think a detailed 1080p image with good out-of-camera colors would suffice. So basically, I started filming in 4k because I was dealing with the trauma of previous cameras I've owned. I wonder how many of us do the same? I'm sticking with M43 as I just don't see any major benefit of the FF cameras. Also, I prefer a challenge in shooting with cheaper gear and getting similar to better results. There's no fun for me in having the best gear with the expectation of "best results". Lastly, I don't like the idea of walking around with a bank on me, hoping that no one's going to steel my gear. Everything I buy can be replaced easily and efficiently on the used market.

I had a GX7 for about a month, then the GX80 came out and I sent it back and got the GX80. In that time, the GX7 outperformed the GX80 in 1080p by far. My current GM1 also does. The curious thing about the GX80 was that if you didn't turn down ALL noise reduction, the image wasn't great (in terms of detail), even in 4k. At 24 and 25p the GX7 image was really good, not so much at 60p with clear moiré. I never really compared the a GX7 image with a GX80 downresed though, but my felling is the GX80 would perform better.

That would make sense. I have noticed that "sharpening" tools do this in-camera or in post. I always turn off sharpening and noise reduction as much as possible- I've always preferred the image. You're right as it's a question of taste.

I think you've looked at this a lot more than me. I like detail, but many images look better with the lower resolution. I like that. Wouldn't be easy if the only thing that counted were pixel counts? It's completely un-scientific, but I've never been able to see a significant difference between 50Mbps long-GOP and 200Mbps ALL-I on the same camera. However, I do see a significant difference between downresed 4k and 1080p native (regardless the reasonable bit rate). Usually, it's unnecessary detail IMO. I'm sure you can see more of a difference when pushing the image though.

The GX85 continues to be a great. I had it for over 2 years and I took videos and photos that I'll cherish forever. I only sold it because I mistakenly thought something Sony and FF would do better and they were from a technical point of view, but it was much bulkier and not as fun to shoot with. I've taken a tonne of shots with the 14mm f/2.5 too- loved that combo for over a year and a half. In 2019, when I decided I'd never leave M43 again, I've been looking for that lens. Sometimes, you can find it for about 100 Euros. Can't wait to see the results you get with the combo!

I mistakenly wrote "color creator" mode when I should have written "color profile" mode. Saturation can essentially be individually adjusted for 12 colors of the rainbow. This could allow for film simulations or creating looks that emphasize certain colors (and not others). I'm not aware of any other camera that can do that in-camera. Maybe I'm mistaken?

I got the Olympus E-P7 a little over a month ago (a fantastic bundle with the venerable 75mm f/1.8). The camera is a little bit of a mixed bag, not have any PDAF. However, it does have some things going for it: only 330g (that's the main feature) with two dials, otherwise roughly the same as the E-M10 iv minus the viewfinder. Decent for one-handed operation. 4k in all modes (world camera), 8-bit 420 (I think, but don't really care), something the PEN-F lacked PEN-F style color creator mode, meaning one can control the saturation of 12 different colors for interesting out-of-camera results. In fact, due to the PEN-F coming out in 2016?, there are many settings out there to mimic film stuff or just creating interesting looks. Downside of the color creator mode is that you need to work from P mode. Yes, you can use the AEL button to lock things down. Using a manual lens, it's essentially manual mode. Does anyone have any questions about it or interesting in seeing some footage with various color-creator settings?