John Matthews

I'm not an expert yet. There's a specific setting for IBIS and panning and it needs more testing before I can comment. Dual-IS is probably the best we've got in terms of IBIS. To get a perfect pan, it might take a few takes but I'm sure it's doable. You can leave the tripod at home though. Even with non-stabilized lenses, it does a fantastic job IMO!

Confirmed. For power, you need the same gx7 adapter.

Holy sliders!!! GX80 files AMAZING with Iridient Developer 3!!! I've never got those kind of results Lightroom on any camera. Blown away!

You have the possibility to have 3 presets for focal lengths. When you change your focal length, you'd need to set up a fn button and with two taps, it'll be set. Not too bad in a pinch, but if you're changing focal lengths all the time, I think a zoom which communicated focal lengths would be ideal. If it's popular enough, maybe Andrew will write a guide... focussing on the camera and how to shoot effectively with stabilization and get the highest IQ from a camera without the "pro" features of Vlog and such. I'd buy it.

My notes on peaking: I'm using a Pentax 50 f1.7. It's difficult to see any peaking at all when set to f1.7. Go to F5.6 and you can easily see what's in focus. However, if you set the monitor/LVF to monochrome (still records in color) and peaking on "low" and color set on "red," it works much better. I'm think it would be even better with a sharper lens at f1.7. Thinking back to my RX100, it did an all-around better job at showing what was in focus though. Problem was, the body was so small you would jitter it all over the place when turning the focus ring. As far as tech., I'm not sure what Sony did that Panasonic didn't. On another note, for a right-eyed person looking through the LVF, moving your finger over an inactive touch screen and having it magnify upon release is absolutely brilliant! Great use of tech. A short note on saving battery: You can turn off the display by hitting the display button a 5 times. Turn on the eye sensor for auto LVF/MON. Set economy to one minute. LVF only turns on when your eye is close. Camera goes to sleep after one minute and starts up very quickly upon half-shutter press.

I figured it out. I just needed to pay closer attention and keep a click or two away from those Zebras at 105.

With a Panasonic cameras, where should one set zebras to not blow out highlights. I set them to 105, but they lose color info. I tried 95, but it's the same issue. What's common practice?

Thank you Tupp for responding so thoroughly. I appreciate that. I should have been clearer though. I'm not a newbee to Linux, but I've never used it as a day-to-day machine workhorse. I've installed countless distros into Virtualbox in the hopes to finding: 1) a stable/secure desktop environment 2) pro and free solutions for both video and photo editing without too much fuss To restate my question in clearer terms: If I'm a "pro" running Linux in the film capital of the world (maybe that's your case), what would I most likely be using? My technical abilities are probably going to be sufficient or I can put in some effort and time. I just don't want to waste time on software that lacks community and developers. I would like to learn something that I know will be supported in the the future (5-10 years) and that has a following. Concerning the GX80, only Raw Therapee will allow me to edit the raw files. I just can't seem to get better results than the in-camera jpegs (which look great). All my previous cameras have had inferior results when compared to software. Not the GX80. I spend most of my time trying to get a result that the camera would have given me out of the box in the first place. The major problem is color. Do you know if RawTherapee is still being actively developed? Or, have most people moved on to Darktable? What are "NLEs?" I'll try Capture One again to see what I get. My problem is more about finding pro cross-platform (Linux included) software for photos and audio/video.

I have a question about workflow. I've resorted to shooting just jpegs because they look great from this camera and also I refuse to pay Adobe for the newest Lightroom when it comes out for GX80 raw support. I also use OSX and fcpx, but would love to move to Linux. Any ideas?

Use MFT lenses. or turn off stabilization. Logically, it would make sense... just checked it and it works. Actually, I'd prefer this to doing a menu dive every time I want to change focal lengths.

UHS-I/U3. I got this one: http://amzn.com/B013CP3MMM

Just a correction in the article about the 1080p codec: "The 4K codec is 100Mbit/s 30/25/24p so same as the GH4, however the 1080p codec is at a lower bitrate. 28Mbit/s in 60p and 20Mbit/s in 24p. This makes for some nice small files but there’s no ALL-I or high bitrate option like on the GH4. Just shoot 4K for best quality 1080p delivery, or an external recorder." If you shoot in AVCHD at 24p, you get 24Mbit/s. Not 20 Mbit/s. Still 4k is best. What are your settings in the Standard profile?

Nope. Not with the current firmware... but maybe there's something I'm not doing right. It seems there are a WIDE variety of ways (touch, buttons, wheels) to punch on focus with manual lenses BEFORE but not WHILE filming. What I would like is to turn off half button shutter focus and use it for magnification before or during... can't seem to do it.

I've been combing through these forums for a couple of years. One thing is certain, there's no perfect camera. I don't know why they chose to turn off magnification when recording starts and it's probably just one of the many limitations this camera offers. This camera DOES offer compactness (one major feature of MFT, yet possibly something even the future GH5 can't offer), great IQ, and cutting edge IBIS for a crazy-good price. Compactness usually sacrifices ergonomics, usability, and build. It's not a DSLR you can "pound nails with," but in many ways, it's a swiss army knife... not the best at one thing, but not bad at anything- just "competent." I also noticed the ergonomics and build when I first picked it up, but I quickly forgot and adjusted after just a few days. Concerning firmware, we can hope... but Panasonic isn't Fuji.

Agreed. When judging different cameras, it should more be about results, usability, and size of the camera and lens combination... not about sensor size. Recently, Sony's G-master lenses seem rather silly to me. It's a small camera, but now you have to carry around a flange on EVERY lens... size benefit? MFT seems to hit a very nice balance (for me, at least).

Interesting preliminary review... Great work finding out about the live HDMI output in 4k 422. The information I had read said this was NOT the case. Wonderful surprise! After playing with the GX80 for the last couple of days, I've noticed some things: 1) Having a stabilised, sharp manual focus preview REALLY helps getting a lock-on quickly with older lenses. 2) It's a shame I can't keep the magnified view during focus AFTER half-pressing the shutter or starting a video recording. 3) The back wheel for adjusting shutter speed/aperture is too stiff and has a protrusion just under it, making it difficult to turn and press. 4) Personally, I haven't seen any moiré, but I didn't do any technical tests. My GX7 would have had in the same situations. 5) Audio sounds like there's a faucet running in the distance whenever IBIS is on. Really, it's only good for syncing in post, I imagine. So far, I'm enjoying it and the GX80/85 seems to be a great camera for both stills and video. Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I've been looking into this over the past few weeks. Terms get thrown around all the time and there's quite a bit of confusion regarding lenses and sensor size. Here are my notes: Focal length = angle of view, Perspective = camera to subject distance, F-stop = depth of field, T-stop = light coming into the lens and hitting the sensor What makes a lens great = high micro-contrast, high sharpness across the field, low distortion, round bokeh balls, low chromatic aberration, no vignetting, and maintains colors, easy-to-use, durable. Seemingly mathematical, but if you like the look, you like the look. It's more subjective than people think.

Just received mine in the mail today (after selling 3 older cameras). I got the body-only model (599 Euros) with the Panasonic 25mm f1.7 (178 Euros). Somehow, I bought the German model in France... whatever. It seems like a good combo so far. I'll have to wait until Friday to post anything UHD, as I don't have a fast enough card. I'm liking the stills so far.

This is a video of Gordon Laing and Doug Kaye discussing the GX80/GX85's video features on This Week in Photo (TWIP). Notably, no overheating and his experience with IBIS.

No it doesn't. I believe he's talking about plugging it into an external recorder, then you don't hear it.

Referring to video recording, I don't think so. I had a quick look at the manual, but it seemed to talk only about stills mode. Maybe someone else can chime in to confirm.

I just asked Gordon Laing of cameralabs.com about the focus pulling in this test video. It seemed to me that Panasonic is improving their algorithms... not perfect, but better when circumstances are right. This is what he said: "Well all the recent Lumix cameras whether MFT or fixed lens, have had DFD-profiling so their Af performance should share similar characteristics, at least where a lens can be driven the same way. But the bottom line is yes under the right situations, the focus pulling is hunting less, although as you'll see in some of my other clips, there can still be hunting visible."

Thanks for this information regarding the PDF. I'd looked some time ago, but found nothing. The Sony DMF mode works well. I briefly had a gx7 and it worked in a similar way with magnification. However, I found the peaking to be the best way to operate manual focus without losing the frame. IMO my RX100's peaking wasn't as good as the gx7... got to go; I have a lot of reading to do!

Ahh... I've now sold every camera I own (except a film era k1000) to afford this one. It appears to be the swiss army knife to photography and video making... looks to do everything well (not including sound) and nothing poorly. Apparently, I only need to figure out how to get ahold of one (earthquake rumors). Located in France, does anyone know where one could preorder from a reputable dealer?

That looks pretty good for something in-camera. I'm not sure if I'm going to be that organised to get this type of shot because it seems it needs to be very "pre-planned." And yes, it's missing the paralax, but still I thinks it's a cool creative option... especially the hand-held part.

All reports on this camera as the one to get for your intended use. I agree the Zoom H1 isn't the greatest, but it's a heck of deal for 100 bucks. I just use it on a boom stand 12-18 inches away or with a lav... seems to work well that way. It's got a cheap build though. The IBIS in this camera, from what I see from preproduction models, is quite good in static shots replacing a tripod or walking type shots. It removes micro jitters, but it doesn't do well in panning- seems to play catchup when moving a little too much. It might be optimised a little more when the production version is released. Another point is that with movement comes blur... 4k needed? Just saying... As for the stills, it will do great for my needs. Will it be the best? No. I think other cameras are better, but not leaps and bounds better. I would say single digit percentage better, not new category better. For that, people should be looking at medium format. Also, when was the last time you printed something bigger than A3? We're at a point in photography that the problem with most people's photos is not the camera. I include myself in that category.