MountneerMan

I figured since prefman has a topic I would make one for “ST”. There seems to be quite a few interesting things that can be done with this command particularly in the cap function. https://github.com/ottokiksmaler/nx500_nx1_modding/blob/c05a707fe540a086877cb1c1d103c466f25b2ed2/ST%20Commands.md Has anyone played around with this command a bunch? I have played around with it a bit but I am not very good with all this stuff so it takes me a lot longer than perhaps some others, plus I do not have a lot of free time to mess around with(though I am sure this is the case for most people on here).

Lexar 1000x(150MB/sec) UHS-II/U3 cards on sale at amazon.com 64GB = $29.99 USD 128GB = $52.99 USD http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PLENZX4/ref=br_prlt_slcty_pdt-10?ie=UTF8&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&pf_rd_r=0WHJXHT98R1W3RT5CYSW&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=ba792081-312d-47cf-afaf-a77290723514&pf_rd_i=13431004011

I would have much preferred for meta-bones to just have made a speed booster for EF.

Would any of you invest in a consumer level steady cam now that we have such affordable 3 axis gimbals? My thoughts were always that I do not want a "cheapo" 3-axis gimbal and for the money to get a good one I could get a REALLY good steadycam + tripod + monopod + fluid head and a decent slider and this set-up would be more versatile but it now looks like you can get pretty decent gimbals for quite cheap now. Also side related question has anyone used a mnopod-steady cam combo? are they any good or just gimmicky?

Extremely good points. Especially regarding the power requirement. Worth trying? I just went to two stores and neither of them had a cable that would work.

let me be the first to say THANK YOU! The download site does not appear to be working. likely because a bunch of people are trying at the same time lol. Just out of curiosity what is the original Mbit/sec of the NX1?

Has anyone tried to plug an external USB drive directly into the camera and mount it using telnet? I cannot find anywhere if the USB 3.0 on the NX1 is an OTG port. I was planning on going to pick up a micro USB 3.0 to female type A and play around with it but if someone already has the required cables and knows more about Linux than me this would be alot faster. I would just be googling commands from the internet https://www.google.ca/search?q=how+to+mount+a+usb+hard+drive+in+linux&oq=how+to+mount+a+usb+hard+drive+in+linux&aqs=chrome.0.69i59l2.1280j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 The intended purpose would be for a program that would back-up all the contents of the SD card to an external drive. This would allow us to back-up our videos(a must with only 1 SD slot) without bringing a laptop to every outing.

Could you please help me out? If you can't help me that is ok, I will just play around with it later this week when I have time but if you could it would be great as I am sure what you could do in 5 mins would take me 3 hours to figure out lol. Does the last three lines make sense and will it work? I am just piecing things together from what I have seen and really have no idea what I am doing. EV_RIGHT.sh prefman set 0 0x00000330 l 2 prefman set 0 0x00000310 l 91 prefman save dfmstool -s 'osd string 7 UHD 24p' sleep 3 killall dfmsd EV_LEFT.sh prefman set 0 0x00000330 l 4 prefman set 0 0x00000310 l 128 prefman save dfmstool -s 'osd string 7 FHD 120p' sleep 3 killall dfmsd Also is there a command to put the camera into video stand-by?

Too bad regarding the flare but I guess It would be better to have the option to add a flare in post(tho I probably never would) then have an unwanted flare when I don't want it. I can't remember what lens it was but I was once playing around with a friends camera and the lens was constantly flaring. I swear it would flare even if the sun was behind you lol. I am pretty sure it was a Nikon/Nikor F mount lens and it was on a 60D but this was quite awhile ago.

This is excellent. Thank you so much this is what we were talking about. any luck with changing the shutter speed as well? From what I understand the st command can do this.

That is good to know. The guy is selling his lens for $40 CAD witch is pretty good considering the adapter is going to cost more than that lol. How is it for flaring? I love a high contrast super sharp lens flare... J.J. Abrams style lol.

The cost to continue production of the NX lineup > The potential revenue + the cost of losing all existing NX costumers No amount of petitions or social media presence is going to change this formula witch is what samsung is looking at. If I were samsung I would be doing the same thing. It is a shame tho the NX1 is an amazing camera. One that I have been using for over a year now and hope to use for another year or two depending on what the other camera offerings are in a year. Personally I am kinda holding my breath for the GH5. I kinda miss the ergonomics of my GH2. I am kinda worried about going back to a smaller sensor tho but anywayy I have another year to think about it.

Funny that you guys posted this today. The Best Buy near me in Vancouver (Grandville and Robson) has a Samsung feature department/section where they have all their phones, tablets and TVs on display. It is seriously bigger than the apple section and they have one small case where they had 4 or 5 lenses and an NX30 on display for the longest time. Even after Samsung cameras left the Canadian market the display was still there for months. Anyways I was in there yesterday and the display case is now empty. Lol everyone panic…. Your NX1 is going to stop working immediately especially with adapted lens. On another note I am meeting with someone tomorrow to look at buying his Olympus OM 50mm f/1.8. Anyone use this lens on the NX1?

Compressed video usually only records the change in pixels compared to a reference frame. http://www.axis.com/global/en/learning/web-articles/technical-guide-to-network-video/video-compression-guide So a very detailed scene could have the same bitrate as a pure black scene as long as nothing is moving in either. Every few seconds a new reference frame is encoded witch would cause the bitrate to jump especially in a very detailed scene. Honestly I am a pretty big noob when it comes to all this stuff and there are a lot of people on here who know and understand this stuff alot better than me but this is how I understand it.

That is really cool. Keep up the good work. Me any alot of others thank you for your contributions but unfortunately there is not much I can do to help. I am good at many things but hacking is not one of them. Do you need me to build or maybe climb something? Or perhaps I could film something for you? I am quite good at those things P.S. I did spend over 3 hours looking at the NX1 source code and found some interesting things (see earlier post from like 2 months ago) However I really have no idea what any of it means or how to do anything with it.

I do not think this is an issue with the NX1. This is more of an issue with having too short of a shutter speed. this is almost inevitable with 120p and even 60p if you are following the 180deg rule.

Wouldn't it also be sweet if it would also adjusted the ISO and aperture to keep the same exposure after setting the shutter speed to 1/250 or 1/50? In terms of the whole "Return to photo" option I mentioned above, I could do without and after thinking about it i don't really think I would use it that much.

I do not understand what you mean. The issue you are describing exists with or without this proposed program. If you are in video stby and want to take a photo, you have to half press the shutter to exit video stby then press it again to take a photo. I was not thinking that this program would lock you into video stby mode if that is what you are thinking. Their are two things I am trying to help with. If I am recording a video and want to take a picture I have to change the shutter speed to something more realistic for a photo like 1/100 then set my aperture to suit then possibly change the ISO as well. Similar problem but in reverse for going from photo to video. Also quite often I find myself filming something and then suddenly want to quickly change to 120p to capture something in slow motion and right now I have to go into the menu to change the resolution then change the shutter speed, aperture and ISO to suit witch is quite time consuming. Actually I was just thinking about it and you could instead of storing all the values in files on the SD card and retrieving them you could have the program check the current f-stop, shutter speed and ISO and then calculate the appropriate f-stop and ISO to have the same exposure but with the shutter speed set to 1/50. Agreed, My original preference would be to be able to save the video resolution and PP in the custom mode settings but from what I understand of the hacks up to this point there is no indication that is easily doable. the Program I am proposing seam to me to be relatively straight forward.

I just got back from a trip to Spain and while there I found myself taking a lot of photos (more than usual) and switching back and forth between photos and videos became really annoying and got me thinking. Is it possible to write a program like focus stacking one that when you push a combination of buttons it pulls up a menu with the following items that would perform the following tasks? 3840x2160 24p - Record the current Shutter speed, aperture, ISO and WB into a file named “photo” on the SD card - Set the video resolution to 3840x2160 24p - Set the shutter speed to 1/50 - Set the ISO and WB to values that are stored in a file named “3840x2160 24p” on the SD card - Enter into video stby mode 1920x1080 120p - Similar as above except with different shutter speed, video resolution and ISO and WB from a file named “1920x1080 120p" Return to photo settings - Check to see if the video resolution is set to UHD or HD and save the ISO and WB setting into files “3840x2160 24p” or “1920x1080 120p” respectfully - Restore the shutter speed, aperture, ISO and WB settings from file “photo” on the SD card. I thinking this program would speed up my process of switching between photos and video and could even include things like different picture profiles for each resolution. What does everyone else think? Is this possible to do using the st and prefman commands and is it even worth doing or is this not going to be useful to anyone but me?

I understand the principles of shutter speed (and traditional shutter angle). What the video doesn't address is the ability for some cameras to "replicate" a slower shutter speed than frame rate. eg. 1/10 sec x 24fps = 2.4sec worth of exposure every second = physically impossible I did a liltle more research and my assumption and what you mention appears to be correct in that if you want to do this its best to just do it in post with the method mentioned above or similar. This is actually a really good point. Has anyone tried to force 1/48 of a second using the "st" command?

I did a quick google search and found some info on this but not enough to satisfy me and I am quite interested now. Do you know exactly what is happening in camera when you have a longer shutter speed than frame rate? I mean it is obviously impossible to expose the sensor more than once at a time so the camera must be doing some math internally witch makes me think that there is no reason you cannot achieve the same results in post. I suppose the camera is likely using the raw sensor data where when done in post it would be using the compressed codec data.

I wouldn't say that. There are some really good vlogers out there that are making some really good content on a really regular basis and IMO content quality trumps IQ every time. Its way more important whats in front of your sensor than the sensor itself. P.S. i would like to add the caveat that there are alot more vlogers making HORRIBLE content (atleast in my subjective opinion) than volgers making "good" content but there are still some good ones out there that I think we could all learn a lesson or two from

I have never heard of setting the shutter speed to lower than your fps. How does this work? does the camera split and combine the data from each 1/10 of a second for multiple frames?

I have not tried any of the hack yet but I agree that I would prefer to not touch the original firmware and not need to flash anything to the cameras internal memory. IMO the idea hack (if possible) would be somewhere in between what both of you are doing with the ability to reboot into a separate OS from the SD card. Chant, from what you have seen do you think it would be possible to do this or do you think you would need to flash something new to the camera?

OttoK has a really good githud that he is updating regularly. Perhaps you could start a githud page for what you are working on (back end NX1 stuff). Even if its more of just sort of "blogish" updates at this point. I believe github is free but I honestly don't know. I am extremely excited reading the progress both of you have been making :). Keep up the good work, both of you.