ReinisK

I have a very nice Canon FD lens set, which I would love to see on my NX1, but with a FF look. I read that you said it wouldn't be possible to make the focal reducer for FD's, but maybe now things have changed?

Hey! How are your computers dealing with NX1 footage? Mine struggles with 4k, but 1080p is alright. Since I wasn't satisfied with the performance of 4k editing in Premiere Pro CC 9.1, I just installed a fresh Windows 10 (had a very old win 8, full of random files), but first tests show, there isn't a noticable difference. The worst happens to 4k performance, when I use lumetri color and visioncolor luts (those are quite heavy though, and take longer to process, than some others). If I have a 5-10 minute sequence with some effects (usually warp stabilizer, coloring, some titles) and an adjustment layer for coloring, the performance just drops. I would have to wait for 20 secs or so, just to see one adjustment, that I did, whether that's a color adjustment, or even a cut or inserted clip. After those 20 secs, it plays quite good though. My PC is: Win 10, i7 4771, 24gb ram, 4gb 960 gtx, 240gb ssd with windows and Premiere Pro CC 9.1 on it, using 2 monitors (1080p and 1280x1024) Usually I edit from external usb 3 hdd, have tried moving the project and files to the ssd, but that also doesn't seem to give much improvements. Maybe someone, who's satisfied with his performance could share his setup? Maybe there are some specific drivers or configurations to be done, so that Premiere works better?

I have shot only with nx1 and the 18-200, which I have. I bought it based on some review, which said, that for video it's good enough, only for pictures the resolution is kind of low. For a year or so I had an 18-200 Canon on my 550d, that lens was very nice (at least I thought so back then), so I though I'd give this a try, too. Well, I'm disappointed with it (bought it used though, but in "excellent condition"). The sharpness is maybe just enough for full hd, for 4k it's lacking I think. Stabilizer is no good @200mm. Don't know why, but at 200mm it stabilizes the big movements, but there always remains a very small, very unpleasant shake/jitter. Up to 150mm it seems good though. It also turns off IS when it thinks I'm using a tripod, but it's actually a monopod I'm using, where I really WANT the IS, but it just stops until a very big shake happens. Tried the IS calibration in the dev settings but it didn't do anything. Can someone who owns the lens comment on these issues? Maybe I just have a bad lens? Apart from the sharpness and IS, there is another thing - the look that the lens creates. I really don't find it nice. Maybe it's the combination of quite an ugly bokeh, small aperture and lack of sharpness. Can't explain more, but it sux compared to my Tamron 17-50 2.8 VC. Also comparing to the videos I shot with the Canon 18-200 and 550d, this look just seems worse. Maybe the unsharp Canon video was hiding the flaws of that 18-200 lens, whereas NX1's super-high resolution exaggerates them...

What are you planning to use this second camera for? For the work I do, I would never want shoot on a camera of the F3 size. All the other gear you need has to be bigger, heavier and more expensive (tripods, sliders, gimbals, camera support, etc...). Getting creative with a camera of that size is far more complex than with a dslr.

I would really like to see a direct comparison between two exactly identical shots, one with nx1 and the other with some other camera. Because there are so many things to consider when looking at this motion cadence thing. I don't think there is a rolling shutter camera on which you can do a mid to fast pan and it would look smooth on 24 or 25 progressive scan. I think there are too much variables when comparing different shots - camera movement, subject movement, sharpness (blur the image a bit and the sharp vertical lines won't seem so jumpy), shutter speed, framerate, contrast, depth of field...

Can anyone tell if that's possible? I have some clips, which are shot in period of few hours and I would like to automatically create a timeline, based on those numbers. Like - my first clip started at 12:00, my next clip started at 12:10, and Premiere creates this 10 minute gap in the timeline (so I don't have to do it manually). I know, if I would have enabled timecode, it would be much easier, next time I'll know.

No, it does not. By manual I meant manual focus and no aperture adjustment. P.S. If you need aperture blades in EF-NX adapter - https://www.fotodioxpro.com/pro-lens-mount-adapter-builtin-declicked-iris-canon-lens-to-samsung-nx-camera.html

My tamron is manual on nx1, on Canon it's electronic, but exposure doesn't change.

It happens with all variable aperture electronic lenses, doesn't matter what camera. My tamron 17-50 2.8 doesn't do this, because it has a constant aperture (physically it could be called variable opening since at 50mm opening needs to be wider than at 17mm, to be at F2.8 like MountneerMan wrote). You could think - Ok, I'll just close the aperture to F2.8 (samsung 16-50 lens) and exposure shouldn't change, but it has to adjust the aperture from fully open @ 50mm, to 1 stop closed at 16mm. It cannot adjust the aperture smoothly, that's why there are jumps in exposure at those moments when it opens or closes the aperture. Try opening the lens to 2.0 and then detach the lens (just turn a bit so it doesn't have electronic contact), you should see no exposure jumps, just a smooth 1 stop transition while zooming. Then again, zooming from 16 to 50 with the lens attached correctly and aperture set to 2.0 in the wide end, there also should be no jumps in exposur. But a quick test on my 18-200 F3.5 - F6.3 showed that there are slight jumps, but far less noticeable than if I set the aperture to F6.3 at the wide end.

I can't get this working on nx1. Actually, it worked 2 times (tried hibernate (ev+ael) and load profile (ev+up) where it said "no profile"), but since then can't get it working - nothing happens when I press the key combinations. When I insert sd card again, it shows "bt mod already installed". It also deletes info, install and nx_cs files from sd root and I think, it once deleted also the scripts folder. Firmware 1.40. Edit: Got it working now. Seems that it doesn't work before the message "mod 1.38". Maybe the mod isn't loaded before it. Once I think I got the message by pressing Fn button, but maybe it was some other thing I did.

How do you guys set WB for video mode on the NX1? When filming outside, daylight or cloudy presets work fine, but what about artificial light? On my t3i I used to set WB in ML by adjusting kelvins, but this doesn't really work for NX1, because there is that pink/green color change happening sometimes when light changes, so you can't trust it really. If it's pure tungsten lights, then the tungsten preset is ok, but what about tungsten lights with some windows? I used to set WB around 4000k then, but how do I do it on NX1? Another question - people's faces sometimes under tungsten lights or my led light sometimes look very pink. Have you had that too?

Since Premiere clips 0-255 mode in shadows and highlights, I also use the 16-235 to be able to edit without adjusting every clip. But there is another reason - it somehow looks like 16-235 mode is getting about half a stop more before highlights blow out. Although I've never tested it on PC, it's clearly visible in camera when you switch from 235 to 255 mode in a just-about-to-clip-highlights scene, in 255 mode the highlights are gone. But one thing I'd like to know - when you don't have a high contrast scene, maybe it would be better to shoot in 0-255 mode for less banding?

Are you able to get continuos video at 180mbps in 1080/120p and then it shows 109? Or it stops recording and then shows 109 fps? Because from what I have found out, it shows those weird framerates when you can't do continuos video.

Tried to test that allocation unit size and if it does anything to improve the slow card problem. Everything was tested at UHD 25p. Adapted lens. Samsung Pro 16gb SD, 50MB\s write speed, 200mbps hack enabled. Exfat. Tried to set it with 1024 bytes (min value) - couldn't record more than 3 seconds even without DIS. Tested it with max value (32768 kilobytes) - could record around 10 seconds without DIS. 512 kilobytes, 4096 kilobytes, 32 kilobytes - a bit better, but still with DIS on no more than 10 seconds, without DIS around 1 minute, sometimes more, sometimes less. So couldn't get 200mbps working. Also the camera was really slow when turning shutter or iso dials. 160mbps seems to work with and without DIS, also the camera is much more responsive, though not in the level as without the hack. Did this with 32kbytes allocation unit size. So my conclusion is that as long as you don't set this value to extremes, it doesn't have a huge impact. Iso 6400 at 200mbps doesn't look much different than at 80mbps.

Hirsti, you mean 160 and 200 megabits, right, no megabytes? My Samsung 50MB/s card at 200Mb/s goes on for about 40 seconds to 1 minute. With dis it ended after 5 seconds once, but usually no less than 30sec. UHD 25p that is.

Did a test with 300mb\s in UHD 25p and FHD 100p. The fasted card I have is a Samsung Pro 16gb, which has 50MB\s write speed. It always stopped after a few seconds. When I put the files in Premiere Pro, it showed weird frame rates. 25fps was in some files 24,77 or something close and 100p was something around 80fps. When the bitrate wasn't hacked, it always showed exact fps, no matter how short the clip was. Another thing - when I brought up the very deep shadows in Premiere. it could very well be seen, that in the beginning of the clip, those shadows consist of huge macroblocks. But when time goes on, those macroblocks get smaller and smaller, until the video stops. It seems that these hacked bitrates need more time to start, and in the beginning the bitrate is somewhat low.

What would happen if we set a value, that is not supported? Like for movie mode, where you have set it to 0 (4k) or 4 (120p), but instead set it to for example 8, which just doesn't mean anything? If it is ok, we could find some hidden options.

Those glitches most likely are VLC fault, since it uses it's own codec's (as far as I know). My VLC does the same with 4k nx1 videos. Probably just can't handle it. In Premiere of course, everything is fine.

PAL is used in Europe. Everything that is broadcasted in Europe is shot with 25fps. That's because electricity in Europe is in 50hz frequency, but in USA it's 60hz.

How did you reach 25fps? Isn't 15fps the max this camera can do?

Try this tool - http://www.videohelp.com/software/Video-Repair-Tool You need to input another file, which is not corrupted, of the same camera and then input the corrupted file. It has worked for me with Gopro and Canon dslr files, I don't know, what about h265, but I assume that if your PC has the codec installed, it should work fine.

Even before this hack, the shadows could be brought up quite a bit. Even in higher contrast situations than this. When you set the PP levels to 16-235 it actually shows, that the contrast here it no so harsh. What I'm really interested in is testing these new things against the old things in the same conditions.

But does Premiere really take advantage of that decoder?

It is apparently because, slog has a 16-235 (or something like that) range, whereas other picture styles have 0-255 range. The histogram shows range from 0 to 255 brightness values, but slog's highest value is just 235 - not perfectly white. Same with blacks. That doesn't mean though, that your image is not overexposed. It actually is, but it is overexposed at 235 brightness value, not 255. When first time shooting with a picture profile, that has a max value of 235, you have to be careful not to blow out highligts. Because if you don't know, that 235 is the max, you're looking at histogram and thinking - nice, the exposure is ok - but actually your highights are blown out at 235 and there's nothing you can do about it in post.

Looking at the information found about nx300 hack (the one which disables recording time limit), it seems that one way of doing some hacking would be with a firmware update. Another way of doing it might be through wifi or connecting the camera to pc with a cable. If it would be possible to enter the camera as a developer/debug mode, maybe some code could be changed right in the camera. As I understand, that nx1.zip file contains the updated firmware 1.4 which is running on the camera. Now when we have access to it, we can find the parameters, that describe the things we need to change, let's try the bitrate first. I just used search and was able to find many mentions of "bitrate" in the zip along with numbers like "min = 6000000" and "max = 8000000". Don't know what these numbers are for, but that is a start. So we need to find the right numbers and pack them in a new firmware update, like the nx300 hacker did. Here is a description of that process: https://sites.google.com/site/nxcryptophotography/diy-firmware And then someone needs to be brave enough to test it :D