Justin Bacle

Just found this on "le bon coin" (french equivalent of craigslist) : https://www.leboncoin.fr/image_son/1027356839.htm?ca=18_s It is labelled as a "Universcope 16" from "André Fougerat" made in France From what I gathered on the web, it looks like a "Dyaliscope 16" Does someone knows something about this adapter ? Is it worth considering, and at what price (as the seller is asking to "make an offer") ? I can try to get it for cheap and add data to our lens-yclopedia for contribution, if this lens is untested as of today.

Okay I'll try this evening

Man I didn't see a side screw on the front. I must be blind :D

The front ring should come easily too ? No tiny locking screws ? My LOMO is certainly very hard to unscrew then, because I can't unscrew the front neither :s

Okay, thanks for all the precious information. Here are photos of mine : https://goo.gl/photos/eNyhafsjAgYWX3ac8 I did remove the tiny screws (3 of them) from the back, to unlock the back ring. No matter how hard I tried to unscrew it, I cannot unscrew the back ring. I did put some WD-40 on the theads yesterday, so I might have a bit more luck this evening ... but I'm not feeling confident about it :s As you can see, there was so much tape on mine that I didn't even noticed the retaining screws on the back :D

I have a Lexar 1066x 64Gb, and it's quite crappy. I get filesystem errors and the card sometimes stops writing for no apparent reason. I'll buy a KB card ASAP. So far, I'm not impressed, at all, with the lexar card.

Get a 50D, you get a nice raw Super 35 camera for €250 and you can keep your BMPCC (which is great for using it with legacy C-mount lenses )

Editing FullHD 1080p H264 AVCHD with a Color Correction LUT and a Grading LUT (on premiere CC) on my i7 4790k with 16Gigs of ram is not pleasant. So I'm pretty sure it'll lag quite a bit more if you don't transcode it :s

The 72mm SLR Magic Rangefinder version w/o marking is not produced anymore (as confirmed by email discussion with them). Which is a pain. I'll have to go with the Rectilux then (which is a better product for sure, but at a stiffer price). Update on that, 37mm is still a bit too wide for shooting without vignetting. the sweet spot seems to be around 42mm 45mm is good (tested with a minolta 45/2 and a 40-80 pentax zoom) 40mm shows tiny dark corners, which make me think it might be good or not depending on the taking lens' design.

Mine doesn't look exactly the same :s I am quite busy with shooting a music video this week-end but i'll send you photos asap

pick a set of old lenses : Minoltas, Russian M42 lenses, Konicas, Fuji AX, Contax, Canon FDs, ... and the convenient adapter and you'll be able to get a 35,50,85 set for less than 200€ (I use minoltas on my mirorless and russian lenses on my dslr myself) Any information about what you plan to shoot would be helpfull to help you btw

Oh, I didn't know that the BM micro Studio had such a low DR. Thanks for the info

What about a JVC LS300 (Super35 4K) or a BlackMagic Micro studio Camera (S16 but 4k if an external recorder is ok for you ?) ? Is the GH4 an option ?

Okay, thanks for the tip. Mine is super tight :s I'll have to find a way to unscrew it.

May sound like a stupid question, but how did you disassemble yours ? Mine is so tight I can't open it :s You start from the back lens right ?

Thank you so much BTW, I also received the Mir 1-B 37/2.8 ! YAY !

On the Ultrastar, you can go as wide as 40mm if you shoot in 1.2:1 (to get 2.4:1 final ratio). I am currently trying to use the 50D + Ultrastar setup with a Mir 1B 37/2.8. I am waiting for the 49 to 62 step up ring as i am currently stacking multiple step ups (hence the vignetting)

This looks great ! These flares are Epic ! Is focusing easy enough ? Is there any chance you could share the 3d files for 3D printing so that I can use it as a base design for mine (after verifying dimensions) ?

well, that is very impressive ! I think I'll try and do something similar with mine

can you share images, I'm not sure I can imagine how much disstortion you're talking about :s

As I can't find a way to edit the first post... Just received the Jupiter-9 (I wrote Industar-9 in the first post, but that was a mistake). So far, I am not very impressed but i'll have to try it in daylight on full frame

I know the original Yi cam and its hacks very well as I have one (it is a great little camera, just too bad the battery is so small though) I'll try and find it again :finger-crossed:

I remember seeing a forum post for increasing bitrate with a hack, but I cannot find it again :s

Thank you so much

Just wanted to share my anamorphic experiences on the forum in one topic for simplicity. For now I have been using : - 50D (MLRAW in 1280 x 1058 for 1.2:1 aspect ratio) - ISCO UltraStar (gold one with 1.5m minimum focus) w/ RafCamera Clamp - Helios 44-2 58/2 - Practika 135/2.8 (Industar-9 and Mir-1B are coming soon) Next items to buy IMO are : - New clamps (front and rear) as I don't like the tiny tiny screws that come with the RAF adapter and would like my clamps to be tool-less - SLR Magic rangefinder for rack-focusing ability Workflow is the following (whilst I don't find a more efficient way) : - MLVFS -> AfterEffects (CameraRaw & VisionLog) -> Premiere (dynamic link) & Lumetri -> DNxHD 4:4:4 10bit Export As I have no front clamp (yet), everything is shot without ND filter. Which is not a problem atm as I love the super16 look you get in sunny days The second video was the first time I really got to shoot at night, I have to say I enjoyed it a lot A few shots are misaligned and I saw it on the computer :s The screen of the 50D is just too tiny shooting 1.2:1 with in camera desqueeze to notice it whilst shooting) If you have advices, please do not hesitate to tell me, I'd love to hear them