Justin Bacle

Actually, I saw that the new 4k action cam too was hacked recently. If they use the same kind of ARM chip and OS, I'm pretty confident about a hack That would be awesome

Actually, I started using MLVFS (Magic Lantern Forum link : MLVFS) to import the footage in Ae (to use Camera Raw). I then use the Ae comps directly in Pr with ingest for creating proxies. It is painless compared to the transcoding mayem (raw2cdng -> Ae -> DNxHD 444 -> Pr) that I used before.

I think that as long as you export your footage in an open standard, there will always be some application that can open and edit it. I would go with CinemaDNG video files and wave audio files. Of course DR is important if you want to keep grading abilities. But it is not the most important. Is your budget for all the gear (Camera+lenses+audio+support) or just for the camera body ?

Actually, I would love to see exactely the same BMPCC but with a better battery and an even lower cost (say $500 ?), so that everyone can have one (think film schools, they could give one to every student). RAW S16 for everyone ! YAY !

I saw several of these on ebay the last months. I was looking for something smaller & lighter though, so I didn't go with it. Curious to see what it's like optically.

I started with photography for 6-7 years before jumping in the video world. I learned photography with film cameras, which taught me to think a bit before pressing the shutter, and I find it very valuable now

I had one 40mm STM a few years ago. I didn't like it that much. I thought this lens has no soul whatsoever, so I sold it (and then I switched to Fuji). I dont feel that attaching a big chunk of brass (ultra star) on its tiny front filter is a very good idea :D (even with a lens support) I found a pentax SMC-M 40-80 f/2.8-4 on ebay for €30, it's cheap and will allow me to check is 40mm is vignette free indeed I'll keep you updated Yeah, I read this thread, the result is very impressive and compact ! Well done !

I just tested it quickly with my 35mm lens and it show tiny dark corners (in 1.2:1 crop). So it must be considered a short scope in tito's hfov calculator. I'll try and buy a 40mm (I only know the 40/4.5 Zeiss Jena Tessar as an affordable option) to try. Any advices on finding a cheap 40mm that is adaptable on canon EF Mount ? EDIT : there seems to be a Pentax K mount 40mm f/2.8 pancake. I'll try to find reviews on it, but I'm afraid it wont flare :s

I think it is always both sides, it is just that some project have a more important creative aspect than others. But let's be honest, most of the time you work with a producer, you're doing compromises. I like boh aspects myself and can find enjoyment in almost every project

I know for sure that 58mm (Helios 44-2) on APS-C with the Isco Ultra-Star is good both in 16/9 (that I do not use) and in 1.2:1 (that I use) I am looking for a 35mm to test, but my M42 35mm lens doesn't have a front filter thread :s Using a 28mm though, I can see the corners even in 1.2:1 (which is expected of course)

Nice images, I love the warm tones and flares you get with this combo. I can also recommend a similar lens, the Minolta 45/2 (pancake) lens if you can get your hands on one. Chateau du Loir is not far away from where I live, and it looks lovely, I'll have to go there and see the landscapes by myself

Thanks for this usefull tool I just have a (stupid) question, are the schneider cinelux and isco ultra-star considered long scope or short scope ?

You can refer to this fabulous tool by tito ferradans : http://www.tferradans.com/blog/?p=8615 As I don't think MlRaw is available on the 6D, you're stuck with 16:9 recording. So coverage depends on your final aspect ration. On VLFV (http://www.vintagelensesforvideo.com/proskar-16-anamorphic-lens-review/), minimum focal is said to be 85mm on full frame If you already have a Jupiter 85mm (lucky you, I can't get my hand on a cheap one) you can also go for a 135mm. There are plenty of 135/2.8 in M42 mount that go for cheap. Just be carefull as the quality is not always perfect.

Ooooooooooooooooo thanks, i thought contax and olympus needed a Lens modification. I'll try adapting some Pentax lenses I have lying around

I had some errors related to the recording on the card (filesystems errors and so on) but I am now pretty sure that they appear when the camera is hot. For your exposure problem, may sou d stupid, but are you in M mode and with expo preview set correctly ?

Yep, I do agree that canon color science is good (I like fuji's colors too !) I just think sony is not that far behind when you really think about it

I am not very impressed by all the color science debate. I mean, who does cameras for big hollywood productions ? Arri, Red sure, but also Panasonic (Varicam) and Sony (CInealta series). If sony or panasonic are used in big budget movies, i'm pretty sure their colour science is good enough for me. Or maybe they just have talented colorists ... Or maybe I'm just colorblind.... [Oh wait, I am colorblind ... damn ... ]

The one I bought had an original canon battery and lasted like 10 minutes when recording :s I bought a couple of Patona batteries. On my last shot (4 hours event, but I always shut down the camera between takes) i did not emptied one battery. So that's pretty acceptable

The problem with 3x3 binning is that every group of 9 pixels is different from its neighbours (because of the Bayer RGGB pattern). 2x2 binning would give great results though (as every group of 4 pixels would give true RGB value, like in the cinealta cameras i think), I don't know why they don't do it :s

Here is one of the shot (800 ISO, processed in ACR using VisionLog preset and desqueezed in Photoshop) BTW, my first tiny video with this setup (50D MLRAW, Helios 44-2 & Isco Ultrastar 2X) can be seen here : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uA7oCbX4Ihk

Yes I do use MLV files and have a full subscription to Adobe's creative cloud (I just use Resolve to create 3D luts to match cameras with a color chart). I use raw2cdng and am very happy with it but I'll try MLVFS next time PS : I noticed that on my laptop (first gen i5 and non cuda gpu) I get weird results but everything is okay on my editing PC. EDIT : I'll try 200 ISO asap, but on that situation, I had to shoot at 800ISO :s

I used a T2i as a B cam on my latest short with the visioncolor and visiontech color profiles and magic lantern (for the zebras, peaking and 1.3x bitrate) , and I have to say I was very impressed. I think you should keep the T2i as a B cam (the only thing I dont like is the highlights clipping that is very unpleasant (even compared to my AF100)). Magic lantern is a huge plus, and this camera is still very usable. I just dont like the canon mount as it can only adapt M42 lenses with its huge flange distance :s Then save up to add another camera, but having a B-Cam is always usefull (but again, it depends on what you plan to shoot)

Yeah I saw his videos, He was one of the first to say that low light was great on the 50D raw and give the processing in ACR required to have the same results. But at ISO 1600 i get horizontal banding which is a bit ugly. I managed to remove noise with After effects "grain removal" plugin, which does the job. At ISO 800 and below though the image is lovely. I'll post a video shot with it last week-end today theoretically (spoiler alert : it looks great to me, very super-16 like)

Thanks for all your precious answers. I thing I'll get the cheap SLR Magic Rangefinder (as soon as I have a bit of cash). The thing is, I don't really care about close focusing. My Minolta 85mm focuses down to 1m, and I never felt that I needed less than that. (BTW, I have to repair this lens, as the front filter thread has been bent for 30 years ... ) So here is the master plan : - get a front clamp for the isco ultrastar (I have to contact rafcamera as I don't see any on their webite) - get a slr magic rangefinder - Shoot (a lot) - get close up dipoters if needed Thanks for your precious thoughts PS : Stupid question : would it be possible to salvage the front elements from old lenses and use them as diopters ? I am thinking of all the dead cheap 400mm f/5.6 or f/6.3 (i got a tokina one for less than 10 euros a few years ago) That may be a stupid question, as I don't know if the front element is "diopter-like", but eh, what gives.

I got my 50D for Raw shooting with anamorphics. And I am very pleased with it. Yes there are problems (CF card related ...) but pictures you get out of it are lovely (thanks raw !) The only concern I have, is that high ISO is rubbish (compared to what I've seen on the web). There is some horizontal banding and noise pattern is horrible. How do you get good low light shots with the 50D ?