Justin Bacle

I usually work in a 1080p timeline in permiere and let adobe do its job for resizing properly (with telling it the correct interpretation settings). But again, I never export larger than 1080p so no worries here :D

I'm pretty sure, the widest you can get on a m4/3 sensor is 2 * 0.64 = 1.28 (m4/3 sensor is 2x Crop minimum) But if the Speedbooster XL covers a bit more, would the JVC LS300 get closer to full frame ? (1.5*0.64 = 0.96) Very very very unlikely :o

Please, Fuji, don't mess up with the video quality of the X-T2 ... We need you !

No but they implemented dual ISO (correct me if I'm wrong)

X-T1 is not that bad since v3.00 firmware that increased video quality. But every sample on the web is based of v1.00 firmware. It is not a good tool for video, but it is not as bad as people say. But I totally agree that it is a fantastic stills camera (and you can adapt pretty much every lens on the fuji mount )

May sound like a stupid question, but here it is. I love my new anamorphic setup (50D MLRAW + M42 lenses + Isco Ultrastar 2X), but rack focusing is a NO NO and the variable strech factor (close focus on the isco ultrastar is NOT 2X strech, pretty sure about that !) will make me use diopters. So the two options are : - Getting a set of diopters, great, but fraction diopters are freaking expensive ! (and I need 72+ mm to go in front of the ultrastar :o) - Getting a variable diopter (like SLR Magic Rangefinder or Anamorphic Shop's FM) which is also expensive, but eh, you just have one to buy Am I just biased by the price or is the variable diopter the only sensible way to go ? I think I may be missing something. PS : What is the difference between the two rangefinders on sale at SLR Magic (except that one has markings, the other doesn't and is half the price) PS2 : firsts tests with the new anamorphic setup : https://youtu.be/p3n0kiXhxMc I was still using lower resolution as my new cf card had not arrived yet and an awfull MD to EOS adapter whilst waiting for the M42 to EOS to arrive (so it is very soft wide open, but not because of the ultrastar).

I just saw one on a french video equipment FB group in great shape for €790 with two batteries and a charger. On ebay, some GH4s sold between €700 & €800 (including one with a zoom lens 12-35/2.8. But it depends on what you prefer. Some people will prefer the A6000 over the GH4. I'm not one of them.

You can also find used GH4s in that order of price... just sayin'

Py speedbooosters (MItakon & RJ) are both in MD mount. Which allows me to mount both MD & M42 lenses. As for the Canon EF mount. I think you need to get another speedbooster. Minolta MD and Canon EF mounts have flange distances way to close (43.5 mm & 44 mm respectively) to be adaptable from one to another. I do not have any experience with canon FD mount though, sorry.

Okay, I'll try and put €400 aside for the 1650 then Thanks for the advice It's gonna be hard not to spend the cash on other things (I juste bought an ISCO ultrastar + 50D because why not ... :D)

Okay so basically, I have the choice (in an affordable budget) between the Pelican 1560 (int. 506 x 380 x 229 mm) for €250 or the vanguard Suprem 53F (int. 560 x 450 x 200 mm) for 230€. The vanguard is a bit cheaper, and has more space. I know it is a reliable brand, but how far is ti from Pelican ? Does anyone have used vanguard hard cases ? Thanks (I'm still a bit worried the these two cases are not big enough, but that will force me to take less gear, which is not a bad thing I guess. :D #gearporn )

Okay I'll definitively look into that. It is just to bad that the pelican cases are overpriced in EU. The Pelican 1510 case w/ foam is for sale at $160 at B&H, and at €200 in europe ($230). Thomann.de seems to have some pelican cases for cheap.

I usually set my camera to like 800 ISO, 180° shutter and then use a variable ND Filter and the clickless aperture of the lens to choose the exposure and depth of field I want. I suggest getting a cheap like 20$ Variable ND filter for testing. They are usually not that bad until you start having very brights objects (i.e. the sun), then you'll get weird internal reflections. But it is still great for $20 !

Thanks, I'll start looking on ebay knowing that

I actually looked for that, but I couldn't find a case with the foam I need. Maybe there's a way to get foam separately but I am stuck here. I went to local stores of backstage equipment but they really have nothing that is suitable for me :s

Thanks for the seahorse brand, I'll check with them if they have a resaler in europe. Shipping is very expensive for objects of this size.

Hi everyone, I am currently looking to buy a Hard Case for transporting my most used gear (AF100 + Half a dozen of lenses + External recorder + small rig + extras). I found the cases from Pelican and HPRC to be quite expensive. Do you have other brand recommendations or a ways to get cheaper cases ? I thought about buying used, but people doesn't seem to sell their cases :s Thanks

FOr the short I just finished shooting, we didn't have access to a power outlet (the city we shot in wouldn't let us), So I took a couple of car batteries, and put a panel of 8 (6 for the second) 12V 10W LEDs (5$ each from banggood) we had great spots and were able to light a night scene perfectly I'll post pictures soon. If you have a spare car battery, I reccomend this dead cheap solution

I finally got my wrenches and was able to unscrew the anamorphic part ! A also got a clamp from RafCamera, which looks to do the job so far (I'll try to replace the tiny screws with ones I can unscrew w/o a tool) I just finished shooting a short, so I'll try and shoot with the new adapter asap. So far, it looks sharper, but it vignettes very differently than my NAP35.

Thanks for the vision tech profile, I didn't know about it

I recommend cinestyle if you want to be able to grade a bit in post http://www.technicolor.com/en/solutions-services/cinestyle and marvel's if you want to get the look in camera. https://marvelsfilm.wordpress.com/marvels-cine-canon/ I think you can also use Vincent Laforet advices. That applies to the 5d mk2 but I think it is still relevant for you (please someone correct me if I'm wrong, never used the 80D yet) http://blog.vincentlaforet.com/2012/03/12/setting-up-your-canon-5d-mkii-and-mkiii/

Very interesting I'll try to play with that when I have some free time

If you already have an external monitor and a small rig, I would totally go with the micro. I think it is a more versatile tool (plus you get better batery life and full size hdmi).

Do you have pictures of the mod, I have trouble figuring how you put the rear elements in the lens hood. Sounds good if you can have close focus. Aligning wasn't great year, but my setup was a bit wobbly :s Do you know what's the name of these tools ? I'll have to buy a couple I think :D

Oh man, i knew i'll need some force to open it, but this is insane ! Are they welding these adapters or what ?