Justin Bacle

I don't have an F3, but I would exchange my AF100 for an F3 any day. The IQ you can get from an F3 is outstanding ! Yes it is a bit big, but you don't need much. A shoulder rig with the external recorder on it and a small zoom, and you're good to go. But if you like small systems, I can understand your problem. Personally, I don't mind having the AF100 (a bit smaller than the F3) on the shoulder rig plus a small bag of lenses. Here are a couple overlays I made for some videos ... pretty simple stuff done as After Effects templates for the editor. I'd be happy to make a template for you if you want (and have a bit of an idea of what you want :D ).

Hi and welcome here Here are a couple of remarks (after viewing it twice) : - It is quite long, i think you don't need 2 min but less than 1, try to keep it concise. - Begin by the stuff which has more chance keeping attention. I think the car sequence or nature sequences have a better overall look than the narrative stuff you put at the beginning. Just my two cents. - Make a nice overlay and a bit smaller. The text you put is quite big but isn't that visible still. A nice but small animated overlay with a two-word description of the shot you are seeing (like Project Name & Date) would be a better solution IMO. Here is the good stuff now : - The car sequences look good, so does the mountain sequence and snow sequences Here is the stuff I don't know what to think about : - The music (As I don't know what to say, no details here :o) Nice to see an F3 user here ! Did you get it used recently ? I'd love to get my hands on one

I cannot agree more I have a bunch of these lenses and most of them are great ! Just too bad they can't be adapted to Canon EOS mount. I'll can't stop using them on µ4/3 w/ and w/o a speedbooster

I was doing photography before getting onto cinematography. Whilst that is true that all the settings are a bit strange, I usually shoot "old-school" so I don't have to change any settings. (Manual Focus lenses, Aperture priority Mode or full Manual, RAW files and that's it).But I learned with a Film SLR (Minolta SRT-101) so that might explain why I think the same applies to video, you can get a nice camcorder and go shooting straight on. Or you can get a cinema camera (or a Sony, labyrinths menus joke) and spend weeks trying to set the camera.

Dynamic range, and the overall sensor light response plays a big role IMO. "organic/cinematic look" is defined with the film standard. That means : Wide Dynamic range with soft rolloffs, No rolling shutter, "organic" Noise, Difficult color science, and so on. Some of it is technology (DR, Sensor response) but some of it is just years of fine tuning (color science). Just my thoughts about you topic, not at all an expert. I just find this subject very interesting.

Looks like to a rectimascop 80/2x to meet, just my two cents ? Anyway the starting price is too high for me to buy it just for the sake of knowing. BUT NOW I WANNA NOW, PLZ BUY THIS DAMN THING !

I would say keep you 7s as it is a very good camera, and get a cheap 5dmk2 for raw ? Is the 5dmk2 enough for your raw needs ?

Thank you. We had two days of preparation for the set and two days of shoot. We didn't had to rush that much and the shoot was very pleasant (plus, it is always fun to play with water and confettis :D)

Finally, the music clip I shot is out. Great decoration work and showing that the mighty 50D still has plenty of qualities. Shot with Canon 50D in raw, isco Ultrastar, Helios 44M, Jupiter-9 and Practika 135/2.8 Please share your thoughts

I have to agree ! I got a Samyang (same as rokinon) 12mm Cine lens too, and I have to say, I did not though I would use it that much, but it is very often monted on my camera. Great wide angle lens, sharp and fast for a very good price

I don't know, I am trying to get my hands on an industrial vision camera using this type of sensor (Basler acA2500-60um for example) and mess with it, but I don't have the money right now. I am looking for a similar vision camera though for experimentation.

Actually, there is the PYTHON5000 image sensor : specs are quite good. 1" sensor (slightly bigger than S16) 5.3 Mpx Global CMOS 100/85 frames per second @ 5 MP (Zero ROT/Non−Zero ROT) 230/180 frames per second @ 2 MP (Zero ROT/Non−Zero ROT) 255/200 frames per second @ Full HD (Zero ROT/Non−Zero ROT) 60db DR (~12 stops)

There actually are a few global shutter CMOS sensors that can compete but that are still too expensive :s

I don't deliver in 4k, but I enjoy having some room to stabilize or crop in post. I always deliver in FullHD or 2k.

Back to the main topic : With the GH5 annouced, is it a good time to grab a used GH4 ? Let's be honest, I don't want to buy the new GH5 or any 2000+ camera ATM as I am good with the old gear I have. But with the GH5 coming, I think that many GH4 owners will switch to the GH5 (if they haven't switch to something else already). The thing is, the GH4 ticks many boxes for me : - 10 bit VLog in 4k via external recorder -> Great for narrative work - m4/3 mount -> Great to use speedbooster and legacy lenses and the m4/3 lenses I already have in this mount - 4:3 Anamorphic mode -> Great for anamorphic shooting But the thing is : When the GH4 came out, many had good opinions about it and bought it. Now, the GH4 is said to be noisy, have bad motion cadence and not so great colors. So here is my question : Is the GH4 still a good option, especially for the used price it will get to soon (I'm gessing sub 800€ w/ V-Log ?) Alternatives don't seem as relevant to me (GX80/85 has no V-Log is 8 bit only, no anamorphic mode, JVC-LS300 has no anamorphic mode, only 8bit and still expensive to me, BMMCC is no 4k)

I found this whilst searching for the anker. https://www.amazon.fr/dp/B00YP823NA/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=H2ULAAY2KFY7&coliid=I1LCNTCNC48AUZ 12V/2.5A output I still have to find a cheaper solution though.

Is it the version marked in feets or meters ?

Looks awesome I still don't quite get how a LUT increases DR but, when watching the video, it made sense. I'm gonna ask a very stupid question but : Does it applies to the "mighty" AF100 ? You say it is experimental on the GH1 and GH2, so should I have a go at it ?

Yep, exactly what I was thinking

Thanks for the link, but as I described, there were no fungus but only bubly coating Nice link, and I'll try it next time I have a lens with fungus. I found a small company that can polish the lenses and apply new coating. The price is around 300 € for spherical lenses. But they are not confident in doing not spherical (e.g. anamorphic) lenses :s

Thanks for the advice anamorphic doctor ! As the coating was already 75% gone, I had to remove it anyway. I'll try to find a company in france who can re-do the coating, very good idea

Hi everyone, just wanted to share my experience fixing a bad singer 16D i got on ebay for cheap. 1. I got this Singer 16-D for a very good price on ebay. As shown on the ad's pictures, there seemed to be fungus/dust inside. 2. I received the adapter and noticed that there was no fungus but the coating has gone bad and was partially gone or made tiny bubbles. I tried the adapter but it was just a hazy ghosty mess. 3. I got the adapter open (you can follow @Tito Ferradans guide with his Elmoscope/Kowa B&H as the construction is very similar), removed the the front elements and got to work. I did scratch the remaining coating with my nail (went away very easily) and finished the job with a bit of acetone. The result is not perfect but way better than I expected. 4. Here is a very quick and dirty shot with the Singer 16-D : Compared to the same quick and dirty shot with my Isco Ultra-Star Both shots with the Helios 44M wide open (f/2) Still hazy but very usable IMO, plus I want the Singer to be hazy and flary as I already has the Isco which is damn sharp and does not flare by itself. Do you have similar experiences to share or have any remarks on my repair ?

Hi, can you share the method to change the dcp profile to another camera ? I'd love to make one for my X-T1

Can you post some pictures shot with it ? I don't have this lens, as it is quite rare, but I do love my MD 135/2.8, would love to see a comparison. Is it sharp @f/2 ? The rokkorfiles test shows it not being that sharp, but is it sharp enough for video wide open ? Should be great on a full frame (Sony E-mount ?)

That would be Greeeeaaaaaat indeed !