hijodeibn

I guess nobody is using it, which also say a lot about it….

Anyway, the XLR are worth it, you add a good shotgun and you get a camera close to pro level for day shooting…..also XC10 is very depreciated today, close to 1,400-1,500 range in the second hand market….

If you are going to buy a new camera for the warranty, then go for the XC15, really is just 400 more bucks and you get a lot more and the probability to get a camera without ghosting, I only recommend to buy an XC10 if it is a second hand so you get it very cheap, for a new one, go for the XC15…..

I think it is very subjective, each person has his own personal goal which will means success to him, in my personal case, just to finish a project and be proud of it, and move to the next one…..

The main issue is that with XC15 you still have the same ghosting like with the XC10, but there are some XC15 which do not have this issue, if you can go to the store and test several cameras and find out one without ghosting you made it big time!!!!…..but if that is not the case, and you still can live with the ghosting in your shooting stile, I strongly suggest you to pick up a second hand XC10 which now are going very cheap….

I already have the Canon 28mm f/1.8 USM but I am interested in the lower stop of the Sigma 30mm, I need a lens for run and gun during the night, has anyone here used the Sigma 30mm Art?, any issues using it at f/1.4 during the night?, anyone has used both the canon 28mm USM and the sigma 30mm Art?, please only looking for feedback from people with real experience in this lens, not from someone who saw a review in the internet, I have already seen them but I still want the vision of a forum member with real experience....Thanks!

If you want to improve your shooting you certainly has to use lights, so use the extra money to get some lights like jonpais recommended you. Regarding the camera, for what you are doing, both G85 and A6500 looks ok for your needs, if you are shooting in very hot environments and you need a very reliable camera probably G85 could be the best option, if not, then A6500 should be your first, but the lights is the most important, shooting in a room without lights is an invitation to bad footage….

I think the best solution for your video is to get a STM lens only for that purpose, I know to add a new lens to your kit is a pain, but I think the extra weight is worthy, I am using a C100 with a STM lens and the image is great, only be careful with the lighting, STM is probably the best solution for your focus today…..

Red One Mx is a great camera and very cheap these days, the main issue is that it is too bulky, so it will depend on your needs, if you are just planing to use it in a tripod could be a good alternative, and in your price range, if you also wanted it for run & gun, forget it…..and go for something else.

Thanks, very close Canon USM….

@mercer I am also very tempted with the Sigma 18-35mm, how is the noise of the AF?, is it similar to the STM Canon line?

Thanks!, my best wishes to you too….

Jesus!!!, you really need to learn to be in silence man, I own a Red One camera and master the speed of panning with it takes some time, specially if you are shooting buildings, again, what you are pointing out is general knowledge, and I am not here to debate what I know or not with you, I am here to learn from more experience people, clearly I don`t see you like one of those people, I was looking for the advice from people very knowledgable in ghosting like @kidzrevil , or like @hyalinejim who catches immediately the tests I forgot raising the ISO, which everyone before his comment also missed!!!! (including you) Again, have a nice day!!!

Drop it man, I just used it as an example since you added a link to Red, what you are pointing out is general knowledge…..I really don`t need your advice….have a nice day!!!

There is no ghosting, I feel happy now, raised the ISO and the blur was almost the same, the last picture that worried me was just an optic effect due to the color of the flowerpot base……clearly I overreacted, well I guess we all have a bad day sometimes….. Dammed XC10 !!!!!!, I am seeing ghosting now everywhere !!!! Thanks man, I totally forgot to raise the ISO to confirm, good catch!!!!

Probably I was overreacting and I am aware of the blur like many others, Red One camera has to be panned very slowly for its blur, anyway I will wait for @kidzrevil comments since he is the expert in this area to me….. You are right, I forgot about the ISO, thanks for the advice man!!

Yes, 24fps, but the last picture that I attached from the Ninja Start worries me a lot, check the base of the flowerpot, that artifact doesn`t look like motion blur... yes, it is moving, there is no other way to see the ghosting….

These are some pics from the external recorded Ninja Star…. Last picture really looked like ghosting……:(

This is internal recording, but I also recorded externally with a Ninja Star, I see something similar in that footage...

ISO 850 Canon LOG f 2.8 ND 0.4 and 0.6 Lens Canon Zoom 20-35 L 180 degree I hope I am overreacting!

Just can`t believe it, C100 has been in the field for years, and nobody ever raised his voice to said anything about ghosting in this camera, just made some tests and you can see some pics attached….. Am I seeing what I think I am seeing?, is it ghosting?, @kidzrevil I think your expertise is needed here!

Very nice short, clearly there is talent here, the script is a little predicted but anyway the history is nice, by the way, for the fog and the last aerial scene, did you use SFX?, which software?

Well, it is hard to find something small and reliable for the C100 line, I do believe this camera is much better for handheld, you can built a setup with 5 points of contact to your body which make the camera very steady and reliable, for very steady shots I am using a steadicam flyer, since i really need the arm, otherwise long shots will be a real pain, the camera is not so light as I initially though, anyway, if you have a better solution for steady shots let me know, really interested in a smaller solution….

I had a similar idea some years ago, but a little different, I wanted to shoot in digital and later transfer it to film, the purpose was different, I wanted to release the movie in film in a local cinema, and the main issue is the cost, it is really expensive, but let me tell you how I was going to do it, first you have to produce the final cut of the movie, adding all the effects, etc, then using a DIY process transfer the digital movie frame by frame to film, my idea was to create a system to project each frame of the digital movie to the lens of a Konvas camera, using a step motor to rotate the film, I have seen this done for 16mm cameras; but I wanted it for a 35mm konvas camera, if you only want to transfer to a 16mm camera there are some tutorials available in youtube. In your case you also will have to do the inverse process (called Telecine), also some tutorials are available in youtube, if the money is no restriction probably in a formal Telecine company can help you to do the whole process, but again, is not going to be cheap….

Most probably the back element will perform just like a fixed ND filter