Grégory LEROY

I'd like to go back to the original question.

How does the GH5 IBIS behave with adapted lens (once the correct focal length entered).

Is it comparable to native 4/3 primes?

With sony for example, I'v read that the 5 axis stabilization only operate with native electronically connected lens.  Adapted lens only have xy axis stabilization.

On 14/01/2017 at 12:04 AM, Simon Shasha said:

Hey guys,

Quick question - I plan on using my Nikon 28mm F2.8 AIS via a Metabones Speed Booster ULTRA 0.71x.

This will convert the lens into a, roughly, 20mm F2.0.

Now, when I manually dial in the focal-length of the lens into the GH5 to activate IBIS for said focal-length, would I dial in the pre-Speed Boosted focal-length (28mm) or the post-Speed Boosted focal length (20mm)?

I'm gonna assume I would put in the post-Speed Boosted focal length (20mm)?

I love the Nikkor 28mm ais, it's one of my favorite lens and it seems perfect for the GH5 & Speedbooster XL (=35mm focal)

Are you satisfied by the images you're producing?

Is the stabilizer working well when walking slowly? Could you post some footage you've produced with this set up?

the new Tamron 10-24mm HLD is cheapear than It used to be last year when it was released. Image seems really fine, I like the design of the lens (esthetically) but I'm not a big fan of the thin un-smooth focus ring.

I wonder if the black bars are not here to hide the vignetting...

On 04/06/2017 at 2:07 AM, DVP said:

The XL can cause vignetting on some lenses given the GH5's 2x crop factor.  Get the Ultra .71 version instead.  The XL works on the GH4 and its greater than 2x crop factor in 4k mode.

Why don't you stop down the aperture to get rid of the vignetting with APS-C lenses?

On 03/06/2017 at 2:22 AM, A Furry Peanut said:

I've looked everywhere online and so far all I got was XL for full frame lenses and Ultra for Full Frame and APS-C lenses which is a good start I guess. As someone who really likes having a lot light to work with (even if it may not be "used" I like to know it's there), is it worth to step down to the ultra for the extra selection of lenses? Everyone on YouTube seems to lean towards the XL on the GH5 while on the forums everyone seems to lean towards the Ultra. Some insight would be greatly appreciated.

Why don't you stop down the aperture to get rid of the vignetting with APS-C lenses? then you could use the XL.

On 05/06/2017 at 12:01 AM, Andrew Reid said:

XL with full frame lenses.

Ultra with APS-C, otherwise on the XL + APS-C lenses you will get vignetting, regardless of IBIS.

Why don't you stop down the aperture to get rid of the vignetting with APS-C lenses (smaller and cheaper)? 

10 hours ago, ntblowz said:

Yeah you just snap on top of 14mm directly, it fit perfectly!

 

 

 

Very interesting, do you have some video footage?

4 hours ago, Fritz Pierre said:

The Tokina 11-16 gets you down to 7.4 mm at the wide end with a Nikon to M4/3 XL Speedbooster for around  399....the Speedbooster is of course extra, but considering crop factor and in the case of the XL adding 11/3 stops of extra speed to every lens you own in that mount, it is an incredible bargain....7.4 mm at f1.8 is Sigma speed!...I briefly considered the 8-18 Leica, bit as my 12-60 already gets me so wide, and as movement along the edges of the frame  gets weird when you pan on a lens  below 10 mm wide, I opted for saving the $1,100...the combination works really well for that rare occasion anyone would go that wide!

Thanks for your feedback. What do you mean by "bit" ("but" right? I 'm asking caus Im not goof at English)?

Are you activating the GH5 sensor stabilization when you use the tokina or is it better to desactivate it? More generally with 28mm to 58mm adapted prime lens with XL, can you use the image stabilizer effectively?

21 minutes ago, jonpais said:

Your best bet is the Laowa with ETC. it is fast, compact and reasonably priced. A Tokina + speedbooster will not only be a much more expensive proposition, it will also be much heavier and bulkier and perhaps not as sharp as the Laowa.

Your proposition make a lot of  sens if my favourite focal were 15mm (FF equiv), it is also probably sharper. But a 10mm prime would make much more sens to me. It' seems weird to me to shoot 90% of the time ETC...but I agree a small prime is more elegant, it makes more sens. No small 10mm on the market unfortunately.

In the other hand, I have 5 nikkor ais, + voigtlander nikon mount, I could also use them with the speedbootser + I could use the tokina with my Nikon camera.

7 minutes ago, IronFilm said:

Remember that at around 16mm (or 14ish?) you can even use the Tokina lens on a FF camera! Thus is certain to cover at the same focal length a GH5 with a focal reducer. 

 

That is exactly what I use on my BMPCC for vlogging!

 

You're not stacking any adapters at all.

 

- it is not vignetting after 13mm according users (XL+ tokina)

- I f I understand, you need Sony to M43 adapter + this sony focal reducer adapter = stacking, isn't it?

22 minutes ago, ntblowz said:

Back then the budget UW lens for m43 is Panasonic 14mm 2.5 with Sony VCL-ECU1, that will give you 21mm focal length with f2.5 to boot. 

don't know if it's a good idea to stack adapters..

1 hour ago, Cinegain said:

Have a look at the 2nd hand market. Overseas it's much cheaper. I once bought the Panasonic 25mm f/1.7 for 99 bucks from B&H (so, US to Europe), they had re-labelled it in Germany and came to my doorstep free of additional fees. Of course, one might not always be lucky, but even through the official procedures that SLR Magic might still be cheaper with all charges. There it's 539 USD. So ~ 440 EUR. Shipping. Not sure, 30 bucks perhaps. So 25 EUR. Total value taxed is 465 EUR. Say import duties are 4.2% customs duties (I believe for optical equipment) ~ 20 EUR and 23% VAT ~ 110... handling fee about 15 more. You've got it for about 610,- EUR or 2545 PLN.

- Adorama has a bundle up for sale with their vND: https://www.adorama.com/slr1021mfnd2.html

I tend to avoid complicate importation. I had bad stories importing watches from the US. 

Those Micro 4/3 wide primes are so expensive, I'm really thinking about buying a tokina 11-20mm, it seems ok:

7 minutes ago, Cinegain said:

Yeah, that Canon actually performs rather well, doesn't it. Atleast in terms of detail/sharpness... might not have given it enough thought over the years, mainly because of that mount. But like you say, there are ways. Or natively again, that 9-18mm Olympus.

Voigtländer seems to have a nice look to it, but not everybody is a fan of the quality. Kowa has an 8mm. And SLR Magic has a 10mm as well of course:

https://www.eoshd.com/2015/01/slr-magic-10mm-t2-1-review/

For something between your both ends, 12mm is available from just about everyone. A lot of choice there, incl. Veydra.

this SLR Magic HyperPrime CINE 10mm T2.1  seems very interesting but so expensive in Poland at more than 1000 EUR! 

I've just heard of the the Voigtlander 10.5 Nokton for micro 4/3. Some love it (stevehuff), other hate it (lensip). I personnally love the voigtlander look (I own the 58mm Nokton).

Have you tried the Voigt 10.5mm?

I was analysing the Exif of my action video, I'm always shooting at 20mm (35mm equi) or 30mm (35mm equi) when there's some serious gun action (to shoot further away).

I would need a 10mm lens  for 4/3 system. What's is surprising  is that only Sayang/Rokinon propose such a focal but we can’t attach any filters which is big problem to protect the lens.

It's very surprising that Panasonic neither Olympus propose any 10mm prime. It's so useful.

5 minutes ago, markr041 said:

Again, the SLR Magic 8mm F4 - it is small, it is cheap, it takes filters and stopped down it is very sharp. It is native MFT. Manual focusing - but for 8mm at F8, you just set the focus to infinity and everything will be in focus. 8mm is ultrawide. 12, 14 or 15mm is not.

unfortunately, they are impossible to find in Poland or Europe.

8 hours ago, IronFilm said:

Punch the right search terms into Vimeo and you can see tonnes of footage from people:

https://vimeo.com/search?q=tokina+panasonic

It is wiiiiiiiiide!

I'm a cheap bastard, and use the RJ Lens Turbo

Thank for the Vimeo link. I prefer much more the Tokina look  to the leica 8-18. In the same time Videographers seem more talented on vimeo than on youtube...

Do you know if the tokina vignet a lot with GH5 and speedbooster XL?

9 hours ago, TARS said:

I have the Panasonic 8-18, and while I do love that lens and it’s sharpness for photos, it doesn’t really have the practical advantages for video you might think. 

The autofocus is bad to the point where I don’t even use it for vlogging. I’ll set focus and flick the switch on the barrel to manual. It’s that bad, even in daytime sunlight. 

The IBIS also doesn’t play very nice with it on the wider end. There’s a lot of jello and background warp happening there. But That will likely be the case for any lens that wide.

it is still one of the better options for the system, given that it has filter threads and has great image quality. 

Just be aware that the autofocus can be maddening and fly by wire is verrrry difficult to pull reliably and consistently.

for my purposes, I still think it’s the right choice. But if you don’t mind the bulk of adapted lenses and will be doing mostly manual focusing, there are better options.  

So if I understand, your purposes are mainly photography, but for video, forget it.

10 hours ago, jonpais said:

The Laowa @Cinegain recommends hits your sweet spot with ETC mode enabled on the GH5. 

I like what I see on Vimeo but is the ETC involving more noise? I shoot a lot inside shooting range.

12 hours ago, Rinad Amir said:

15mm 1.7 Leica ?? Youtube it its gem of lens wide and savior when light needed also small light cheap god i cant praise this lens enough i had it compared to my 18-35 1.8 with booster and weight is the first thing that made me sell sigma and keep Leica

I like what I see on youtube indeed. But I need wider.

2 hours ago, Grégory LEROY said:

Hello guys,

Should I buy a native lens like the Leica 8-18mm? : compact, autofocus, in camera correction, or should I choose the adapted path buying the Tokina 11-20 f2,8 on Metabones XL Speedbooster: more light & shallow depth, no focus by wire, don't care about a little of vignetting

Performance against bright light is quite important to me.

I'm questioning caus all I see over youtube from GH5 x Leica 8-18 is so un-inspiring, so sanitized (well, it's tourist shot in the same time).

On the other hand, I've heard that adapting an ultra wide angle lens with metabones speedbooster was not a very good idea. 

What is your experienced with ultra wide angle lenses and micro 4/3 camera?

Thank you.

Guys, If you have footage comparaison btw native and adapted ultra wide angle (20mm is enough wide for me)  lens on m43, do not hesitate to post. If you have footage of adapted ultra wide angle (no comparison) I would be also curious.

20 minutes ago, IronFilm said:

The Tokina 11-20 is pretty sweet. I have the older 11-16mm

This can last you many years across many systems. 

And who the hell needs AF for UWA anyway? Your DoF is measured in feet after all!

Could you show me some video you shot with tokina and speedbooster pleas?

21 minutes ago, Cinegain said:

I have the Olympus 7-14mm f/2.8 PRO which trully does a spectacular job. But it is huge and doesn't have a filter ring natively. Before I used to fly handheld gimbal stabilizers of the mechanical kind with the GH2 and the adapted Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8, but I don't find the image all that satisfying, I find the Olympus has less distortion and better sharpness. But you do need like a 3D printed accessory to be able to mount filters in front. Then more recently Laowa came out with the 7.5mm f/2 MFT rectilinear lens (which the Oly is as well, btw) and it is the perfect thing for wide angle. It's small and light (I have the lightweight version, should I decide to throw it on some aerial platform one day) and actually takes filters natively. Image quality is rather good for the size. People also used to use the Olympus 9-18mm quite a bit, might be worth having a look at. Otherwise... Gordon Laing I believe mentioned it was his favourite lens to come out last year? Just because it's so practical. But I have to agree with you on the look, nothing about these recent Panasonic Leica zooms screams that Leica look, like their primes do (most notably of course the 42.5mm f/1.2). So... dunno. For me, right now it's a mixture of convenience VS quality when I go out, so either Olympus 7-14mm f/2.8 PRO or 7.5mm f/2 MFT from Laowa.

In fact, when Im' shooting gun action, 20mm to 24mm (35mm equ) is the sweat spot to me, this laowa is too wide. 35 mm is also nice for journalism/report. I forgot to mention that I imperatively need classic filter on my lens. I've damaged an ultra wide lens  last year (no UV filter) receiving a cartridge...

Hello guys,

Should I buy a native lens like the Leica 8-18mm? : compact, autofocus, in camera correction, or should I choose the adapted path buying the Tokina 11-20 f2,8 on Metabones XL Speedbooster: more light & shallow depth, no focus by wire, don't care about a little of vignetting

Performance against bright light is quite important to me.

I'm questioning caus all I see over youtube from GH5 x Leica 8-18 is so un-inspiring, so sanitized (well, it's tourist shot in the same time).

On the other hand, I've heard that adapting an ultra wide angle lens with metabones speedbooster was not a very good idea. 

What is your experienced with ultra wide angle lenses and micro 4/3 camera?

Thank you.

On 10/01/2018 at 1:35 PM, maxotics said:

I don't know if I mentioned this before, Bill Claff did a DR test of some Sigma cameras and found a DR of 6.  He was flamed off some forums for reporting those findings, which I believe true.  But they do NOT make a difference, at least to me.  We don't look at images beyond that range.  The flip side of the question is, aren't the Nikon images too low in contrast (too washed out?).  Nikon has the widest DR tested.  But again, the question isn't how much DR of the physical world a camera captures, but how well it can deliver sensor values into our 6 DR viewing space.  In my tests, when I've tried to match bayer images with Sigma images I have never been able to get the same saturation look.  The bayers always look slightly washed out in comparison.  That's to say, if you do get the Sigma camera and have the time to work each RAW image to match contrast, the Sigma will still maintain that 3D look--definitely against an APS-C sized sensor.

As for why no one uses it in a studio.  Let me be blunt.  A studio is for fast, efficient professional work where the end-user is almost never looking for the kind of quality that separates cameras.  Therefore, the Sigma is too slow.  Second, most photographers are technically weak; that is, they don't really understand what the camera is doing under the hood.  Third, they need to justify in their mind why their camera is already the best.  To be fair, as I've said, I would not use a Sigma cameras for professional work.  I'd only use it as a fine art photographer.  I'd DEFINITELY use it for portraits, but again, not for typical professional work--it's just too slow and time is money!   If you're just starting out and don't have the money for a D810/D850, the Sigma will give you a Medium Format look that I believe will impress people.  

I did some tests I did 5 years ago trying to match bayer to Sigma cameras.  I couldn't do it.  But again, if I don't know any better (like most people ), bayer images are fine!

http://maxotics.com/2012/11/26/sigma-dp2s-vs-sony-nex5-with-18-55mm/

  

I have time, I only work for my own project (but I'm printed internationally), so I'm going to invest in Foveon.

Next week, I will try the SD Quattro with some old sigma lens like the 50mm f2.8 macro and the 17-70mm (I don't need hyper fast glass), I hope it's going to be easier to manual focus than on the dp.

2 hours ago, maxotics said:

I believe there's a zoom assist, probably buried.  As for radio control, you can get something like this https://www.adorama.com/us 934638.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiA7dHSBRDEARIsAJhAHwjCws--uxALtZ9Oln3j_78EvcqcNnWm4ZzbuMSq5-hBycBDGr18caEaAgYMEALw_wcB   

there's a zoom assist but we cannot move it to the border of the frame which doesn't make sens...this adorama link seems to not work in Europe.

I was watching the picture, colors are so deep, but in the same time, is it not too contrasty? Must be good for dramatic portrait. I'm really thinking about buying it but in the same time, why nobody use it in photo studio?

1 hour ago, Grégory LEROY said:

Yeah, the red are so rich and vivid, bayer looks faded in camparison..before buying it, I still have to figure out how to build a good light set up with sigma (radio trigger? any remote control? which monolight and speedlight?), and to know if it's possible to bring the magnification to the eye caus I haven't succeed at sigma shop. 

Yongnuo flash triggers don't work with the dp quattro because of the lens bulge, do you know if the GODOX – X1 work?

28 minutes ago, maxotics said:

Really?    You know I gotta say it, again.  Slow?  Sigma? 

The Sigma colors above are significantly richer, IMHO.  Though, the Nikon will always be fine.  Still,  I can never get that rich look with bayer cameras.  I take it you didn't buy the camera, just tried it out?

Yeah, the red are so rich and vivid, bayer looks faded in camparison..before buying it, I still have to figure out how to build a good light set up with sigma (radio trigger? any remote control? which monolight and speedlight?), and to know if it's possible to bring the magnification to the eye caus I haven't succeed at sigma shop. 

Here are comparison shot of me I took at a Sigma shop in Warsaw. Unfortunately, I shot jpeg.

Nikon D5500 x Voigt 58mm Nokt  (standard profile picture)

Sigma Dp3

I like Sigma colors better but the ergonomy is terrible

impossible to connect my yongnuo radio trigger or speed light because the lens is on the way (I used sigma flash they gave me) , impossible to move the focus point to the eye, overall a very slow and uneasy camera to use.

On 22/12/2017 at 9:52 PM, webrunner5 said:

I always keep coming back to this comparison of 2 Medium Format, and a 50mp Canon DSLR versus a Quattro DP2 and well guess what, no matter where you move that target to the Sigma wins every time. It is an amazing camera. You have to substitute the Sigma DP2 for one of the cameras listed there and just move it around to different targets on the test. I got rid of the Nikon D850 but..

https://***URL removed***/reviews/nikon-d850/8

I'm very disappointed by the dp2 colors on this comparaison, Sigma skin tones are very yellowish.

I'm going to a Sigma shop next week in Warsaw. I will compare the dp3 Quattro to my current portrait set-up Nikon d5500 + voigtlander 58mm nokton, here is the last portrait I've shot with it :

I know this is not the same focal (50mm for the sigma), but I want to compare the colors and contrats in a studio environment and see if the sigma can surpass the Nikon bayer + Voigt.