gt3rs

https://docs.gyroflow.xyz/app/getting-started/common-filming-tips-and-issues

Is physics just try with your ASPC or FF camera disable IS whatever, move the camera with a 15mm and then with a 150mm you will see how much more movement, EIS would need much bigger crop, blur will be much more between frames and larger sensor (in general) will have more rolling shutter issue that also affect the software stabilizing. Gopro lens is like 2.9mm not 15mm.... so the movement between frames is not that severe to start with and will have way less motion blur although to work well still need high shutter speed.

Render it in 4k, youtube will compress less. Try it yourself, upload at 1080 and at 4k the same 1080 video and you will see.

Gopro, uses a tiny sensor with extremely short lens and very high shutter speed. The movement magnification of a FF with a 35mm compared to a Gopro is just a complete other order of magnitude. Unfortunately any digital stabilization requires a high shutter speed to be more effective, put a ND on a Gopro and 1/50 and the great stabilization is gone.... In my experience, and I posted multiple times, any lens above 70mm that has IS for video performs better on the R5c than R5 (in my case 70-200, 100-500) and I do a lot of handled, of course I'm not walking or running, for this you need a gimbal. Below 35mm on the R5 you will get wobble effect especially if you walk or pan rather fast. So a R5c with an IS lens wins here. IBIS is very useful from 35 to 70mm on non IS lens. I use quite a bit a 28-70 2.0 that does not have IS and I tend to use it handled on the R5 or on Gimbal on the R5c (there is really no contest against a gimbal if you walk.... gimbal wins by huge margin). I did test but I never use Digital IS, I prefer to stabilize in post in Resolve if needed. I also shoot mostly in RAW so Digital IS is not available. Would be cool if Canon would embed the gyro data so we could do digital IS in post, but if you look at Sony catalyst or Gyroflow both requires high shutter speed to be effective. Probably for @Django the question would be how well it compares R5+IBIS+RF 24-70 vs R5C + RF 27-70, handheld both static and walking. Unfortunately I don't have an RF 24-70.... but once I should try with the RF 35 1.8 IS to see...

With IBIS up to 30/35mm the wobble is an issue and you cannot fix in post, with no IBIS but with lens IS you can always add more stabilization in post. Remember you cannot disable IBIS and keep lens IS on on canon body….

100% the same other than the fan and the TC port. Never had any issue so far with both R5 and R5c. I much prefer the R5(c) size than R3 or 1Dx series that i used to own. Not sure I will go back to a 1 series size… but you never know.

Currently I would say yes Z8 is probably the best hybrid in the market but for sure but not gonna switch to Nikon and then switch to Sony and then back to Cannon 🙂 Imo the more rational path is you invest in either Sony or Canon ecosystem and stick with it, some years you will have the "best" camera and some years not but you save a lot of money in not switching back and forth and you develop a lot of automatisms too. Nikon has some really cool unique lenses and Z9 and Z8 at the moment are the best in class imo, but there is no cinema ecosystem and not yet good budget friendly hybrid cameras... so at the moment if you want to grow or downsize is more tricky than Sony or Canon. Canon has the advantage to share the mount with RED and a no brainer EF support, Sony is much more open to third parties lenses.

As I shot 90% RAW (25,50) and 10% xfavc 4k 120 ….it is still THE issue for me, no 8k 50 with grip and forced to use the usb port. A dummy dtap battery with the right voltage or a new grip would solve the isse but nobody offere these…. I don’t mind using a small vmount battery but the usb port is a real pita….

Is not a cripple hammer is a big oversight as afaik no C camera has this not even the C500…

A big nope and this together with the battery is the biggest complain that I have with this great camera. You can also only save ONE settings file to the SD so you cannot use that neither... why o why not being able to give at least a name... I switch a lot from 8K 50 RAW to 4k S&F 120 XFAVC and is a pain.... on the R5 I have two C mode one for 8K 25 and one for 4k 120 much more practical

Is pulled as there is a bug in photo mode, if you use custom modes c1 c2 etc camera think to be in pixel shift mode and creates huge jpgs. I expect that is a quick fix.

Why not simply crop in post? I normally do it this way when people requests vertical video.

Indeed, I rarely use the same grade for video and photo, for the best photos I normally export 16bit tiffs from Resolve and edit in ACR.

4k imo is a bit the bar minimum as it gives you almost zero cropping space. I agree that 6k is probably the sweet spot with 8k giving you more possible tight composition and vertical reframe. RAW gives you a bit more flexibility mostly due to white balance but is not imo a key requirement as 10bit log you can definitely process more that .jpg. So 10bit is somewhere in between RAW and jpg... When I shoot 8k I always do it in RAW LT as is much faster to edit and scrub in Resolve that h265 4:2:2 10bit.... At events I take my gaming notebook and edit directly from the CFexpress... for the photo I show the frames to the athlete and I ask which he/she wants and then I edit.

As several people have mentioned here any gopro with wifi enabled, usb powered and using your phone ... you can even record if you see something interesting. Or any cheap wifi surveillance camera that does not require a plan/cloud.... 20-30$ but the quality is quite bad...

I tested quite extensively over the weekend, let’s start with the good: “Enables to detect heads facing sideways or backwards, or in situations such as when wearing a helmet” This one is not perfect but really good and for the type of filming that I do it makes a difference, first it does not lose the head when moving away but more important it works with helmets. These in the past I would have to stop down to 5.6 to keep the face in focus, now with the face tracking with helmet I can shoot at 2.8. Screen grab, this one was almost impossible before as the focus would have been on the horse head instead of her. this one before it would have simply lose the focus “Improves switching time between Video/Photo mode” This one is much faster now, was not a big issue for me but now it should not be an issue for most people. “Enables to change WFM size” and “Enables to change WFM/Vector scope opacity”. This is very practical, especially on the tiny screen. Just tap the WFM and it becomes bigger, tap it again goes smaller. Now the not so good: Face/Helmet does not work on S&F mode so no 100/120 fps face tracking…. R5 can… “Adds Power Saving Mode” this comes with some limitations so only 4k XAVC, but works 24 to 60fps…. and indeed it extends quite a bit the battery. So seems all good but the implementation is a bit cumbersome as you can turn it on only when all settings matches and if you want to let say go to S&F mode 120 you cannot you need first to disable it…. T his camera needs absolutely customs shooting modes it would make all of this so easier to go from 8K RAW 24, to XAVC save mode 24 to then XAV S&F 120 and so on…. You need to change many menu items that is insane…. For example, for this scene I wanted to quickly change to 120fps for a few seconds and then back to 24 and with power saving you cannot do it quickly.... Overall not much to complain Canon added quite a few of very useful features. I hope they will further improve the camera. My wishes for the next one are customs shooting modes and face tracking in S&F 120, even better if you could select the area of the frame where face tracking is active similar to the R3.

A couple where the motion blur makes them more interesting. 24fps 1/50.

It depends on the scene, sometime it works well and sometime not but you can also get decent result by adding motion blur in post, here two example from this Saturday (8k RAW 60fps F2.8, 1/2000): motion blur in Resolve Btw you here you also see a bit the rolling shutter that at 15ms is not fast enough for pans to avoid making the pillars leaning... This from yesterday 4k 24fps 1/50 F2.8 you cannot really take a picture out. You can always try to add motion blur in post but you cannot remove it. This I filmed with the 180 rule as we did not care about taking photos out.

Yeah right S1 video AF for sports…. maybe instead of complaining about the thread you could post some of yours sports frame grabs 😉

I like FF look shallow dof so personally I would take R8 instead of an R7 also R8 4k 60 is supersampled definitely better quality…. a few here seems to prefer the R7. I’m not a Sony shooter but they have really good camera too with great AF, so does Nikon (in case of Nikon for the moment only the expensive ones have good video for sports). Ideally you want a 4k or up, 60 fps not pixel binned with really good video AF But the first question should be: do you own already any lenses?

Exactly the opposite you want for sport.... shallow DoF is key as most of the background is quite distracting.... you would probably not see any pro sport shooter with m4/3... A couple of examples from today, 8k RAW 60fps 300 2.8 1/2000, imagine these at 150 5.6 they would not pop..... At the end if you want large DoF and portable why not use a phone? But if you want photo and video that pop a R8 or similar + EF adapte + used EF 70-200 2.8 Btw the new helmet AF of the new R5c firmware is really good, not perfect but really good.

The above I posted especially as is a 4k one, so a R8 at 4k 60fps + a used ef 70-200 2.8 you would get a close enough photo out of the video as mine. Unfortunately sports = large lenses…

Mostly R5 and R5c. This one is from 2 days ago: R5c 4k 120fps 1/2000 F2.8 and the AF can keep up. AF tracking is quite good in video even for sport, challenging is the initial acquisition but for track and field it should not be a big issue

For track and field, if you shoot laterally by either tracking eg. gimbal moving in parallel or from a fix point by panning the sense of speed will be very different depending of frame rate and shutter speed. 24fps 1/50 will look like they go much quicker than 60fps 1/120 or look even slower at 60fps 1/500. Even when taking photo only panning laterally you would always want to have some slow shutter speed so 60fps 1/120 will yield good pictures. Now if they run towards you and your camera is not really moving eg. tripod or handheld, it will not matter that much if is 24fps 1/50 or 60fps 1/500 in term of sense of speed. But for photo grabbing 1/250 or above would be required. So instead of sticking with the 180 rule I change the shutter speed based on the position and movements and again if the prio is photo or video or both. Some examples of my video grabs: Slow shutter 180 rule The below one works as the camera is moving (tracking bike) at the same speed as the athlete, if the camera would be fixed it would be impossible to get a picture out High shutter speed 1/500 and above For me 4k would be too low as I crop quite a bit and also take vertical photos out of horizontal video. If you would do it a lot to take pictures out a 6k or above would be better in my opinion.

Great, perfect timing as this weekend there is a local showjumping event where I can test it before next week fei csi international competition. Very curious about the AF improvement especially the face/helmet one….