gt3rs

I like FF look shallow dof so personally I would take R8 instead of an R7 also R8 4k 60 is supersampled definitely better quality…. a few here seems to prefer the R7. I’m not a Sony shooter but they have really good camera too with great AF, so does Nikon (in case of Nikon for the moment only the expensive ones have good video for sports). Ideally you want a 4k or up, 60 fps not pixel binned with really good video AF But the first question should be: do you own already any lenses?

Exactly the opposite you want for sport.... shallow DoF is key as most of the background is quite distracting.... you would probably not see any pro sport shooter with m4/3... A couple of examples from today, 8k RAW 60fps 300 2.8 1/2000, imagine these at 150 5.6 they would not pop..... At the end if you want large DoF and portable why not use a phone? But if you want photo and video that pop a R8 or similar + EF adapte + used EF 70-200 2.8 Btw the new helmet AF of the new R5c firmware is really good, not perfect but really good.

The above I posted especially as is a 4k one, so a R8 at 4k 60fps + a used ef 70-200 2.8 you would get a close enough photo out of the video as mine. Unfortunately sports = large lenses…

Mostly R5 and R5c. This one is from 2 days ago: R5c 4k 120fps 1/2000 F2.8 and the AF can keep up. AF tracking is quite good in video even for sport, challenging is the initial acquisition but for track and field it should not be a big issue

For track and field, if you shoot laterally by either tracking eg. gimbal moving in parallel or from a fix point by panning the sense of speed will be very different depending of frame rate and shutter speed. 24fps 1/50 will look like they go much quicker than 60fps 1/120 or look even slower at 60fps 1/500. Even when taking photo only panning laterally you would always want to have some slow shutter speed so 60fps 1/120 will yield good pictures. Now if they run towards you and your camera is not really moving eg. tripod or handheld, it will not matter that much if is 24fps 1/50 or 60fps 1/500 in term of sense of speed. But for photo grabbing 1/250 or above would be required. So instead of sticking with the 180 rule I change the shutter speed based on the position and movements and again if the prio is photo or video or both. Some examples of my video grabs: Slow shutter 180 rule The below one works as the camera is moving (tracking bike) at the same speed as the athlete, if the camera would be fixed it would be impossible to get a picture out High shutter speed 1/500 and above For me 4k would be too low as I crop quite a bit and also take vertical photos out of horizontal video. If you would do it a lot to take pictures out a 6k or above would be better in my opinion.

Great, perfect timing as this weekend there is a local showjumping event where I can test it before next week fei csi international competition. Very curious about the AF improvement especially the face/helmet one….

It would help knowing what type of action/sports you plan to shoot and the type of shoot eg tripod, gimbal, mounted camera, fix camera, etc.

Search my posts in the forum, I take a lot of pictures out of videos mostly out of 8k RAW and sometimes out of 4k 120fps…. Depending on the priority I set the shutter speed accordingly. video first then is 180 rule or up to 1/500, photo first I even set it to 1/3000… It depends a lot on the sports and if you are panning/following or fix position. Fix position 180 rule almost never work not even at 120fp 1/250, panning works in many more situation also as low as 1/50. Sports people are so used to gopro videos and co that they mostly don’t notice if you shoot a video at 1/500….

I did try PS Generative Fill on around 10 pictures that I wanted to remove stuff since a long time but it was just too much work and is crazy good especially if you just want to remove objects. It will just get better and better and will be applied to video too. Saving tons of tons of hours of work but also will make people loose their job. Also being able to use a prompt will also speed up things tremendously like "replace the pink t-shirt with a white shirt"...

If you use a cage or half cage just use this https://www.smallrig.com/SmallRig-HDMI-and-USB-C-Cable-Clamp-for-Canon-EOS-R5---R6---R5-C-Cage-2981B.html and this https://www.smallrig.com/smallrig-ultra-slim-4k-hdmi-adapter-cable-d-to-a-3021.html On my R5c the adapter and clamp are there fixed in, so I just connect the full HDMI to the adapter. I already pulled the cable and broke the adapter.. 9$ and back to business, a full HDMI would not have been better so this is for sure the safest solution.

I was pretty sure that I have used for a couple of live streaming. To be sure I just tested on my R5 and with the first menu settings (LCD+HDMI) the camera can record on the card while outputting a clean HDMI feed and displaying the overlays only on the LCD screen. I also tested and it works the second menu option "only HDMI", there you need to press info to go the screen without any overlays (assuming you did not disable that screen in the customization. It could be that R6 II cannot do neither of the methods but seems strange to me. Best is the R5c solution where you can configure what to show in the LCD and on the HDMI....

Actually for gimbal use is a pita as it works only through USB so you cannot connect the gimbal to the camera, plus you have a cable from the gimbal grip to the camera that is not a good idea. Would have been Wifi or Bluetooth it would have been brilliant....

Seems a really good camera, probably the best hybrid at the moment. It makes A1, Z9 and R3 look overpriced compared to this. Really good that Nikon is aggressive with the price/features pushing Canon and Sony. Only odd thing that apparently it cannot record video on both cards...and personally I don't like the screen as is a pita on gimbals...

The main difference is Z9 8k 60 vs R5 8k 30 (R5c has 8k 60) but at the end imo what it counts is what leans you have.

Flip out screens are great especially for gimbal use as they don't interfere with the motors/arms!

A cam R5c, B cam R5, 3 insta360 (R, 1 inch and GO2) and an iPhone 13 (that I truly hate for photo and video with s..ty file system, worst workflow ever)

High definition in term of "sharpness" or you mean overall image quality (sharpness, dr, noise, rolling shutter, etc)? Do you need high-quality slow-motion or not? Highest definition is one out of the 8k cameras R5, R5c, Z9, A1, REDs or BM 12k. The only kind of option in this price bracket is a used R5. 4k there are quite a bit of choices now. If you need AF, and for modelling is imo very useful, and photo, buy either Sony or Canon and a good used 24-70 or a couple of primes 35/85. Investing in the nice L mount not sure it is wise. Panny is a nice player in the photo/video business compared to the big boys. You want to move up or down in chain Panny has not much to offer with the same lens mount... so you need to sell and buy lenses. Now they finally have a better AF but they dropped in the quality....

As I read is "XF-AVC Intra Slow and Fast" not normal fps, my bet is any XF-AVC (24,25,50 and 60) will have the power saving. Unfortunately there is no 8k XF-AVC on the R5c, is either RAW or MP4.

Great, so there is still hope for LUT on RAW playback!

I wish (hope) that the power saving would be also in place when the camera is not recording as this is a real battery drain, going to "media play" solves the issue but if you forget to do it you loose a lot of battery for nothing. Photo/video switch speed is for sure good, the waveform for me is a big improvement as this small thing is hard to read, and I'm very curios to test the AF improvements especially with helmets being a normal situation in my subjects. Overall I'm happy that they try to improve the camera.

Cool, let's see how it turns out, really looking forward on the power saving mode. I wish they would also add: - Apply LUT on RAW playback. This seems so basic! - AF face tracking in 4k 100/120 - 8k 50/60 RAW with AF and IS with internal battery even if it last only 15min - Move the waveform around as you wish. - Program a button for deleting video in playback mode that requires a simple confirmation and not 300 button press...

Why would you "buy" an APS-C lens for A7IV? If you already own it maybe for video, but buying it make no sense to me, for photo is meh as you loose a lot of res and for video is questionable. Buy a good FF used lens, you will resell it with no too much loss if you want to change. I mostly buy used lens and if you find a good priced one you may end up selling for almost the same price that you brought.

FX3 is Netflix approved FX30 is not or not yet: https://partnerhelp.netflixstudios.com/hc/en-us/articles/360000579527-Cameras-Image-Capture-Requirements-and-Best-Practices#h_01G6KEYFG76GRKVMJS382H5638 I would take FX30 or FX3 over Pana S5ii for the lens selection alone.

Thanks! All frame grabs, the only exception is the last one that is a photo from a timelapse sequence. IBIS is known to be way less effective on long focal lens, not enough travel space so far back. The RF 100-500 is rated 5 stops IS and 6 stops when combined with IBIS and probably at 100mm, in practice I see zero difference other than the annoying reset that IBIS seems to be doing. IBIS should be fully lockable and independent from lens IS, then we would have the best of both world.

Regarding IBIS I can confirm that with long lenses > 100mm (70-200, 100-500) the R5 sometimes jumps (kind of reset itself to the middle) and it is something that the R5c does not do. I was filming in Alaska and the first day I opted for the R5 instead of the R5c due to the power consumption, in that environment I would not use and external battery, cables etc.. But I got a few shots ruined by IBIS so for day 2 I switched to the R5c and 6 batteries 😲 . Is definitely a special use case mine where I do film a lot handheld at 300-500mm....