scotchtape

Just wanted to start a thread on these for future reference so we can find some good battery brands, and post up on A7III overheating. Sony OEM was at 60% after 1hr recording. Temperature warning starting flashing on and off around 40 mins, then stayed on at 55 mins, and shutdown at 1:02 for me. After 20 minutes I restarted the test. Camera lasted for 34mins then shutdown again, warning light came on after 20mins. Battery at 30% after 1.5h. Purchased 4x DSTE brand NP-FZ100 from eBay in May 2018. These cause overheat warning during video recording at 40mins and shuts off at 45-50mins (tested several times). So basically they heat up 25% faster than OEM cells. Purchased 1x SmilePowo from Amazon in May 2018. This recorded for slightly longer than 2 hours. I believe Sony can go for 3 hours? So 2/3 the battery life of OEM. Also, the last 25 minutes recorded was with the meter showing 0%. They also weigh about 6g less than the OEM. Tested in 4K APS-C mode. Tested indoors on my desk. Ambient around 21C (guessing). Using 4K 100mbps in full frame. AF-C and IBIS on. Used Sony 16-35mm GM and Sony 18-105mm (aps-c). Temperature setting was normal and not the high mode. Anyone tried Wasabi? On the overheating side, using 4K in APS-C mode the camera lasts longer (I think, I was playing video games and didn't pay 100% attention to the test), but using the full frame for 4K it overheats at about an hour. 4 other YT clips show overheating around 1 hour to 1:20, and 30mins in direct sun. I'm assuming Max got his to "not overheat" by sneakily recording in 1080p. So I'm not really sure this camera has improved heat tolerance at all. Martin Cheung's video shows the A7III overheating around 1:20, whereas the A7rIII was fine. Anyone else have A7III that won't overheat during full frame 4K recording?

I'm going to post about after market batteries as well as over heating. My A7III overheats after 1hr straight full frame 4K recording indoors. Checked YT and there's 4 other videos about it.

Decided to return Tilta G2x if possible, just not as smooth as the Zhiyun and has weird quirks, plus slow set up time. I know the DJI Ronin uses basecam as well, but if it's as finicky as the Tilta I don't know if I can switch from Zhiyun...

Just got the Tilta G2X. Currently you can only use iOS to connect to the gimbal. I have no mac devices so I can't connect to it to change settings. Some strange behavior with the gimbal in follow mode when tilting (weird speed ramping when ending motion). Zhiyun just "works" and I like that, it's hard adjusting to other gimbals Locked mode isn't that great either with slight shifting of position. Also when using Crane V2 I didn't have to use the lens support at all with my GH5 and various zooms, but with Tilta G2X I do otherwise it vibrates. Can't really make any real comments until I find a way to connect to the gimbal and adjust settings, but I did try A7III+70-200mm and it "works".

Dood... It's tokina...

Gh5 also has weirdness. If you switch between movie and M mode, you can record video in both, but in photo mode the video exposure is darker than when using movie mode or what is shown on the screen before hitting record. Also remember the infamous color shift on record from previous panny cameras...

For non-narrative where you do want shallower DOF, it's still way easier on FF since there are tons of F2.8 Zooms. For M43 you're getting F5.6 equivalent bokeh and there's really nothing you can do if you want the flexibility of a zoom. Yes you can use the sigma but it's impossible to balance on smaller gimbals, so now you need a bigger heavier gimbal, and the lens itself is pretty heavy, negating the whole small and light m43 thing, plus the AF is I've used GH5 for the last year but I really miss how easy it is to get shallow DOF on FF. F2.8 isn't crazy shallow but it's hella lot better than F5.6 with the M43 zooms. I had to work so hard for it on m43 it just wasn't worth it especially with the useless AF-C

I think Andrew? posted that AF-S mode uses CDAF instead of PDAF. Coming from Panasonic it is annoying there is no "fast" AF-S in video mode with focus confirm for setting up the shot, but the AF-C is pretty good so it's a small adjustment. You can also hit af-on to refocus. If it can't find focus (like closer than min focus distance) it shows blinking green dot in bottom left, if it's constant then focus has been achieved.

Just have to wait a few more months My only other complaint right now is that the super useful screen is probably going to be an extra chunk of change. Also the other gimbals resale are gonna drop badly such is life!

Because the extra weight capacity goes to waste when the back of the gimbal prevents you from balancing longer loads (either heavier and longer lenses or camera bodies). Also the roll motor blocks the screen of cameras with non swing out monitors. Hence a whole bunch of new gimbals with the angled motor. Try putting c200 on moza air.

Crane V2 can handle max 4lbs (weighs 2.4lbs) , meanwhile the Ronin-S can handle at least twice that (probably weighs 4lbs), plus can balance longer lenses and bigger cameras. The G2X can rock C200+Sigma 18-35mm, so Ronin-S should be able to do that if not more (from what they said on the NAB videos). Not that I would want to handle that without a vest... Just ordered a used G2X from BH to tide me over until Ronin-S comes out.

"This is heavy" - no weight specs given... The 3 gimbals in this "class" (assuming Ronin-S is similar) would be Ikan Pivot, Tilta G2/G2X and Ronin-S. Ikan and Tilta weigh 4lb and rated for 8lb gear. I'm waiting for the Ronin-S but I might get the Tilta G2X in the meantime. The Pilotfly Adventurer is 2lb / 6lb. The promo vids for the adventurer is full of shakes so not really selling me there (probably user error, but still, the official promo...). Also it requires a custom battery (like the Ronin-S) which I find annoying, and "only" has 6 hour battery life, and is more expensive than the Ikan and Tilta gimbals. I don't know if Tilta's "selfie" mode is actually different than any other gimbal, but you can mount the camera "backwards" to more easily balance longer lenses which is a plus. However you have to activate it using the app, which is kind of dumb that you can't do it right from the gimbal. They all have pros and cons, still on the fence but I do need something bigger.

There is only afc in video mode no afs. Assign toggle from afc to mf to a custom button.

If the IBIS is not causing the warping, please explain how the gimbal is causing the warping. The gimbal controls where the camera is pointed. How would the gimbal cause the edges to warp, when the center remains in the same position? If the gimbal were to move the camera's direction, the center would certainly shift too. It sounds like you're saying if I have IBIS on and get the warping, it is not from the IBIS. But if I turn off the IBIS and get no warping, it is still not the IBIS, even though the only time the warping appears is with IBIS on...

Thank you for providing that link it explains things nicely. That answers how the ibis works for Sony (no tilting). I do think the ibis ifeature is what is causing the artifacting, as the other video I posted shows. With ibis off you don't see that type of artifacting vs having it on. The blog post you referenced also explains the artifacting caused by the ibis implementation as it applies a transformation to the image attempting to correct for tilt and yaw. You said ibis can't generate that artifcat because it doesn't tilt the sensor, but the implementation is that the image is digitally transformed instead of having the sensor tilted. This transformation is especially noticeable with uwa lenses (also noted in the blog post). If you mean the physical ibis implementation cannot generate that artifact then that might be true, however the implementation of ibis includes the digital transformation neccesarily, so turning on ibis will generate those artifacts depending on the camera movement, which would casually mean it is the ibis causing the warping.

So you're saying all the diagrams from Sony showing yaw and pitch correction from ibis on the sensor are all misinformation? Is there a source for this? They literally market it correcting (obviously constrained by physical spave) yaw pitch and roll, as well as xy movement.

Did you mean the opposite? IBIS can be implemented in many ways, you know the Sony has 5 axis including the yaw/pitch... I do think the overloaded gimbal combined with the IBIS made that artifact, so I will test with a bigger gimbal later, however it does show how wonky things can get with UWA and IBIS on the Sony (full frame too), which makes sense considering the size of e-mount, the limited distances it has, and the distortion of UWA lenses at the edges. If you don't think that this effect is caused by IBIS you can check this video below, at one point there is a comparison between the EMII and GH5 while the guy is walking (I'm pretty sure without a gimbal just handholding), you can see similar type artifacts on the EMII side, video should be linked @ 5:43, and this is on M43 sized sensor. This type of artifact pretty much has to be due to IBIS/OIS because it has to do with the direction of the sensor shifting in relation to the lens. Without OIS/IBIS the sensor stays in position relative to the lens, so you would see a normal perspective change. Whether it's better than shaky cam or not is subjective.

I know I used an ultrawide and overloaded the gimbal so I'm not gonna get up in arms until I can test it on a bigger gimbal. Might get the tilta g2x in the meantime.

Look at the mountains top right @ 8s in. (Location scouting for personal timelapse project) No grade Can't wait for Ronin-S (hopefully it's good)

Just shot some A7III + Sony 16-35mm footage. Major warping at the edges @16mm going on with IBIS on my gimbal, especially when walking fowards/backwards or trying to hold the camera still. Panning from side to side looks relatively ok, as does tilting up and down. I'll try shooting with the 10-18mm in aps-c mode next time instead (except that lens is so light I can't balance it). I was using a Crane V2 which couldn't really handle the weight so maybe that contributed as well, but still, the warping was pretty weird.

Wow. Great job. I'm impressed you went all the way through with it!!!

Come on guys at least be accurate with your info. Older Nikon lenses have the apeture lever. The recently (last year or so?) Introduced e-type lenses (still f-mount) have the aperture electronically controlled like everyone else now. Anyways technology moves on. Compatibility would be nice but I'm sure plenty of people would buy into a new mount if the lenses were lighter and better with better af.

"The canon has more of a green tint on the skin which I like more" from the video... yeah no thanks. These guys love wacky green skin tones... Praising Canon for green tint, even though they literally say the Sony camera captured the scene more truthfully. IMO the Sony won hands down, not saying much since their comparison shots said nothing about the color or white balance settings. Just look at the YT comments, everyone is calling them out for their ridiculousness.

Slightly unrelated but just tried shooting Slog2 and Sgamut3.cine Used the LutCalc to convert Sgamut3.cine into LC709 or similar, it really messes up the color. I don't think Sgamut3.cine needs converting, but I'm not an expert. I think Sgamut3 apparently needs to be converted, but .cine looks fine, either that or the tool is messed up.

I actually think the color in that video review is really bad (A7III review for filmmakers), if that was what I was seeing with my camera I would be very disappointed. I know the crap YT codec doesn't help, not sure why they didn't upload in 4K. Highlight control pretty bad too. Skintone here looks fine: Colors here look classic (decent) sony: This was posted a while ago to, colors look the same, GH5s vs Sony A7III Skin looks fine to me: