scotchtape

??? I am using a G7 now and A6500. I mentioned those 5D3 and D750 cameras because you cannot rack focus accurately using a monitor as the focus tool with them. I am currently shooting without using a monitor, so I guess I am "unable to work without a monitor" - you're right! All I said was you cannot rack focus using shallow DOF on 1080p signal. All of a sudden you show up lambasting anyone who dares mention it like some kind of personal insult... I must be some kind of idiot for pointing that out, sorry. Obviously I am "unable to work with what reality offers me" even though I am shooting regularly with aforementioned cameras. I guess they are not real cameras and they don't count since they are a "joke". I just showed up to suggest some feedback on affordable 7'' monitors and suggested looking at the 4K input because 1080p signals are hard to focus with. Now I am an idiot that can only shoot with future technology and don't know how to use my gear???

No I don't get your point. It sounds like you are saying "everyone is complaining that they need a 4k monitor for focusing but they are being stupid because we have made movies for 100years without 4k monitoring." Well maybe I should start calling people who want autofocus whiners since "people have been using manual focus for 200 years, we don't need AF to take photos or video"... Sharp 4k signal makes the monitor more useful since you can be more confident in focus (I still think you need to punch in when possible though). Why shouldn't people want it? And no one was saying you can't make a video without a monitor in this thread but I did point out that using 1080p signal from most cameras at this time is very hard to achieve perfect focus when racking and using monitor as focus tool. To improve the focus ability of the monitor a sharp signal really helps. How is this a bad thing? For those of us not on movie sets with focus pullers, or using follow focus for every shot etc any help is appreciated.

You can "pull focus on a 3'' monitor with 480p resolution" on full frame with F1.4 or hell even F2.8? I ran around trying to do that with my 5D3 and D750. So many shots out of focus when rack focusing. If you are talking about punching in to check focus then that's a completely different discussion, but please show us this magic of sharp 4K rack focus using 480p monitor and shallow DOF using monitor only run and gun... even if you can do it can everyone else? I don't really use external monitors right now, and because of that I don't do rack focus and I have to punch in to check critical focus.

4k makes a big difference if you are focusing. I would say most cameras 1080p outout to monitors are unusable for focusing. Think of the mushy 1080p from 95% of cameras - that is what you will see. But when you use 4k signal it is so much clearer! Almost useable with 7 inch monitor with full HD resolution but for critical focus still need to zoom in. When I plugged a6500 into my monitor for the first time I was wondering how my monitor got so much better!!!

When I had the vs2 finehd the colors were poor, it had over contrast that was hard to dial down (crushed blacks and no highlight detail with d750) and the screen seemed over pixely and difficult to focus with (could just be 1080 output from can). Not to mention the long long boot time. I even preferred using the bottom barrel fw759 I had "upgraded" from instead. Let us know how that f7 works out. The older versions didn't have very good brightness or contrast but for the price how to complain...

I didn't like VS-2 finehd. I have Neway CT710HO it's ok, takes 4k signal and is 7 inches. I think there are newer versions now. With 4K signal it looks nice and sharp. Older cheaper monitor I had was Feelworld FW759 which was popular at the time because of low cost and 1280 resolution. Newer model is out now for $180USD. FW760 with full hd actual resolution. FW759 was ok for the price, the newer version looks better but I don't know for sure - but don't get it if you are using 4K signal because all the reviews say there are problems with 4k input. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1261736-REG/feelworld_fw760_7_ips_ultra_thin_full.html Feelworld G55 is like half priced SmallHD, still expensive though. G7 is the bigger 7 inch version. no 4K https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1251098-REG/feelworld_fwg55_g55_5_5_ips_full.html Neway CK550s or Lilliput Q5 looks cool too. no 4k https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KKJWS5U/ref=s9_simh_gw_g236_i2_r?ie=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=&pf_rd_r=F4C49D3AC2YNVMKWX1CW&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=a6aaf593-1ba4-4f4e-bdcc-0febe090b8ed&pf_rd_i=desktop

If you just email them they'll get back to you and then usually rose replies on one of them.

Hard to trust nebula after all the horrible negative threads I've read about them. Product looks interesting but trust is zero. Side note: I've been impressed by a6500 and native oss lenses for stabilization. I've never used the oly stuff so I can't compare but damn... 18-105mm is so steady.

If you want to try cheap LED fresnels there's a few options: - Godox SL series (unsure of actual CRI values), must buy fresnel attachment like Nanguang NG-10X or Aputure fresnel. - The similar model is Jinbei EF series (I think they have lower CRI though) - Nanguang CN series - More expensive = Rayzr 7 - Smaller, cheaper, and might work if you are very close are the Came Boltzens and Fotodiox J-500 - Other stuff in UK, I'm in NA so I didn't look into them like the intellitech or whatever. I am taking a chance on the Godox series because they are the cheapest lux per $. But you have to mod them by replacing fan because it's relatively loud. Hopefully someone will measure the actual CRI and TLCI at some point. I am waiting to find a good deal on a spectrometer. The Boltzens stats also seem very competitive so look into those too, but I am not sure how they measured the lux values, it seems to be an open face measurement. If so when spotted down should be really bright. The Fotodiox seems to be very weak based on their stats. All you need is a point light source. Even a small LED panel casts some pretty harsh shadows if you put it more than a few feet away from subject, but they usually have low output and can't compete with ambient. The monolight design with reflector also works if you don't want to get the fresnel attachment, but the fresnel really helps focus the light and boost output when spotted down.

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=sigma+35mm+art+diameter http://lmgtfy.com/?q=sigma+50mm+art+diameter http://lmgtfy.com/?q=sigma+85mm+art+diameter

Dell Ultra IPS series with i1Display Pro correction.

I used internal battery and external USB battery at the same time to increase battery life and reducing need for switching. I have a dummy battery I didn't try yet. Monitor was from Neway on PV. It's OK. There are some newer models and a half priced smallhd clone but I don't think that one takes 4k signal. A6500 is just not right for monitor use imo. It can work with manual focusing if you need it though. Smallrig cage is already on eBay for a6500 but I am waiting for it to drop to $50usd. I like that it has arca plate built into the bottom. You just have to accept the reality that the camera is what it is. Many things are half baked and frankly I don't feel comfortable not having a backup on anything longer than a 1-2 hour shoot (and I mean shooting clips only and not constantly on). Maybe they will fix this on next version or their FF a9 rumored camera.

A6500 screen turns off when recording and using monitor. You can still use on camera monitor to touch focus, except you won't see what you are touching... Also overheats. I used it for first time on a gig a few days ago. I got the temperature warning but luckily I was almost done for the day. I'm not sure if you can get 4K output with overlays. But if you output clean 4k you can focus pretty well depending on the monitor. I have an older CT760HO or something, it takes a 4K signal and is quite sharp. Waiting for Sony to make a "real" version of this camera instead of these beta test versions. Can't be beat for sharpness and noise but you pay the price with all the other short comings.

Isn't this the same concept as those diy "make your bokeh into star and heart shapes" by cutting shapes out of cardboard and sticking it in front of your lens?

Called it.

You guys are so restrained and polite I am impressed.

You can create directly in premiere..

Have you even checked with other equipment - how do you know p48 on the mixer is working properly? You have to check all the components yourself to identify what is actually wrong...

Do you have someone to boom for you? If not I'm not sure how you will work a shotgun mic. If you are doing interviews outdoors you will need a handheld mic like EV re50b or Sennheiser md-46 or something like that. But to be honest you can get a cheaper mic that would probably sound fine. Wired lavs can be pretty affordable too and if you have a backing track you don't need too of the line stuff. It is more important to learn what to do first than getting a good shotgun mic. $400 is like... You can get a rode ntg-3... But based on your post I would get a used juicedlink box and go direct to camera (the used ones can be had for peanuts. I just got an rm333 for like $80usd). Then get an interview mic, a decent but cheap wired lav and maybe an at875r on camera shotgun and then learn more... $400 doesn't go very far but it's enough to learn on.

Just buy the original ones. Unless you know where the battery is coming from it can be very low quality.

It's easier to tell when you get to play with the files I think... the moment you push exposure/shadows, wb, saturation... then all the problems (or lack of) come out!

if you have canon sb then you can just stick another om>canon on there, but most cheap ones have lots of play

Check out some of the 3d out creator videos it looks pretty sweet - has camera matching tool. Only problem is how will you get your hands on an Alexa...

Well for G7 combo it's very easy so it's a non issue with those two lenses. Not sure how GH5 will fare - that combo is about 1kg, depends on how far the lens extends. I mean, if you forget to take your lens cap off before balancing then take it off, your camera will fall backwards! However, with G7 and 12-35mm I haven't found it to be too big of a deal. I've only used it for a few jobs so far and maybe like 2 hours continuous max so I can't comment too extensively. The motors are supposedly quite powerful, enough to handle some imbalance. The more imbalance, the shorter the motor life will be, but I have no idea by how much. Presumably you will upgrade your gimbal by the time you burn out a motor if you're being relatively careful (just my guess). I mean I stuck a rode videomicro on top of the whole thing and it still worked despite being quite unbalanced... I wouldn't recommend that for extended periods of time though. However if you are that worried about it just put an arca plate on it and adjust balance carefully between different zoom settings, should work fine.

RE: time to balance / make adjustments. Changing lenses does suck depending on the setup. G7 and 7-14mm / 12-35mm is really easy, just adjust the camera position back and forth and it's close enough. Takes like 15 seconds. But on A6500 swapping between 10-18mm and 18-105mm requires adjustments on all 3 axis. Would probably take a minute to do? It's too long when shooting in fast paced situations. Especially if you need to swap back and forth. I'm working on a solution for weighting the 10-18mm so that I can make a quick change like the G7, but I need some parts. 1-2 minutes doesn't sound like very long, and if you're on your own schedule it isn't, but if you have inexperienced clients waiting for you it's just too long. I've found it very useful so far.