scotchtape

Did more digging. Thinking of Manfrotto 535... https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/556157-REG/Manfrotto_535_535_3_Section_Carbon_Fiber.html

I just got this gimbal too, it's fun! Haven't had a chance to do any real shooting yet but tests at home seem great. If you need it even further forward you can run the mounting plate the other way around (tilt motor on left side instead of right side).

Depends on your camera. Many cameras can set K value and G/M shift. Also, in AWB on some cameras you can also specify whether you want want to push warmer/cooler and G/M shift (like Panasonic)

It depends on how much weight you are putting on to it and how you are using it. Depending on the circumstance (like in my case) having the column decreases the strength of the setup so it is more prone to tilting and flexing. Obviously for static shots / photography they are convenient (but still give less rigidity). Once you start moving things or put weight off center, the strength goes down. I also find I rarely use my center columns, yet 7 of my 8 tripods have them because I thought they would come in useful (and also they are photo tripods, and basically all of them have a center column)

Okay checked out the review of the wild bull here with the slider and counter weight on it... still some flex He says "very little flex" but I think it's kinda significant if you watch the video... although I don't think it's the slider's fault but the carbon rods in the slider. Thanks for the links guys, I will definitely be checking those things out! Might have to switch sliders too...

Are you using the flywheel on the slider as well? Thanks. And you're using the fluidhead too? I just didn't want to lug around a fluidhead as well if the bowl adapter would work.

What are you guys using to attach the slider to the tripod? Ball head? Fluid head? Bowl adapter ? Thanks I noticed the tripods and ballheads were OK but it was flexing where the ball head attached to the tripod area

So I've been running around with an iFootage Shark S1 slider with flywheel, attached to 2 cheapo carbon tripods (the neewer $100 CF travel ones). I'm using it at the shortest width (no extension rods). Works but is annoying to change the height or take the slider on or off, not to mention moving it around and setting it up. Every tripod I have has a center column (except for a cheap Weifang tripod that is heavy) and flexes when I move the camera (probably like 10+ pounds of weight on one side!). I've used a Sirui K-40x huge ballhead and an Induro 414 aluminum, but I think the tripod center column is the thing that is flexing slightly.I purchased the Konova Stabilizer arm or whatever, and I couldn't get it to work for me, maybe I was using it wrong, but I sold it. I don't understand how it works because the joints do NOT lock, they are free to move around, so there is some form of flex that you can't get rid of no matter what. Quick question - will this "work"? If I get this tripod https://www.amazon.com/Leofoto-LN-404C-Systematic-Compatible-Tripod/dp/B01HN8K3YE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481601880&sr=8-1&keywords=leofoto Use a 75mm bowl adapter and an arca quick release (or other) on top. If I mount the slider on that, will it still flex or will the bowl adapter be strong enough to hold it in place? Don't want to spend over $550 USD only to find out this plan is crap... Asking if anyone has had success with a single tripod setup and no flex.

Well I just ordered one. I want to see for myself! It really depends on what you're using it for and your own preferences. Right now nothing can touch the image sharpness and lowlight capability / dr for the price. It even has useable ibis and from what I have seen decent pdaf af. I just bought a panny g7 and the DR sucks compared to my Nikon d750. Not impressed at all at the shadow noise even at low ISO. All of these cameras have compromises so far. Xt2 no ibis and not good at low light, af good except no touch screen... Em1 ii from what I've seen doesn't seem to do anything well either. I assume the g80 etc still have crap dr and noise like g7, and terrible af tracking. This thread is already 5 pages long for a reason - the IQ from a6300 is mind blowing for the price. Except for the stupid issues, Sony could have made s huge splash like gh4 level. Everyone is secretly mad they didn't fix them because this camera could have been seriously awesome if they got rid of heat and RS. instead they released version 1.5 instead of a proper 2.0

Well those cheapo adapters (I have many) usually aren't that great and usually have some play in them. Even metabones has some I think. So when focusing manually it will make the wobble even worse. Also I don't remember how, but I broke one of my adapters (Nikon to Eos) and realized if I knocked my lens really hard it might just fall off the camera! But there really shouldn't be any reason why it wouldn't work. Honestly if you are serious about it you should just get native canon lenses... Shouldn't be too hard to switch that sigma one as it's pretty popular and in demand.

A6300 will most likely not see a huge price "collapse". Look at Sony RX100... Mk I, II, III... it is only wishful thinking to hope A6300 price craters. Who posted that graph of sales % to pro videographers... it was like 10% max - no way it's going to make a difference. I still really want to get this camera despite all the issues. A lot of the time I look at my D750 footage and wish it was sharper. Just playing around with the Panny G7 I got and ISO 3200 has so much mosquito noise it's ridiculous (I guess YT compression makes it all go away since I don't see any in the clips online). Even though everyone complains about Sony colors, I've always hated Panny colors too! Maybe after getting A6500 I will hate it, who knows... The RS is horribad and the 1080p is stupidly soft compared to the 4K, as well as the heat issues and color. If they only fixed those 4 things and charged a bit more no one would complain. But I guess then the camera would be "too good".

But doesn't that just monitor what is going through the unit and not what is actually being recorded...?

Tamron VC is very good for video! Sharpness with Canon 70D video is poor so the lens doesn't really matter as much.

That sucks but you could just add some weight to your camera and be good to go..

Who doesn't love orange people?

Wow I was really looking forward to getting this camera if most of the issues got fixed but it looks like it didn't... I'm still using my D750 for video, but I really wish it was much sharper. I just ordered the G7 on sale (kit for $500 usd) 'cause of the price to use for 4K downsampled to 1080p. Also, from the samples I've seen the G7 seems to have better WB than the newer GX85 and G80, but I don't know if there is actually a difference in other areas (if the footage is any better). From the shootouts the G7 looks better to me but maybe I am missing something. From all of the sample footage I've seen, the A6300/A6500 is the sharpest 4K of them all. Also the video AF wasn't bad either compared to Panasonic and barely there for D750/5D3 etc. I don't know what to do now! I even got the MC-11 on sale...

I had the aputure finehd vs-2 and hated it. Colors really off and just looked too blocky for some reason. Everything was good except for the screen. I just got the neway. My reviews are on personal view. It's ok - I only use it in zoom mode to help focus and compose with screen (d750). Finehd has no zoom feature and takes like 15s to boot up. Not sure if you can do any critical focusing on 7inch monitors without zooming in... if that is the case I won't have any use for super expensive monitors.

It is easier to buy pre made dummy batteries except that for some cameras they are quite expensive. For Canon they are cheap and plentiful. But for the "big boy" nikons that use el-en15 (d600 d750 d800 etc) it costs like $30 just for the dummy. For Canon ep-6 it's like $5 for the dummy or like 15 incl tax adapter (can't member now). That's why I made my own for like 1/3 the price.

Battery grip obviously doubles the battery life since you have 2x batteries. On small DSLRs the battery life is terribad. I also created my own NP-F mount in parallel. IF you can DIY, you just hook two plates up in parallel and mount it to something. I used a cheap electronics box and a 15mm rod mount. I usually have some form of rig to attach that too, but if not you can also just use a hotshoe ballhead or something. - Plates = $4 each (buy the charger for Sony NP-F batteries then just use the removable plate) For the dummy battery you can make your own by sacrificing one. I just got a cheap aftermarket battery and wired it up. I have done this to several Canon and Nikon Cameras no problem. Running two Sony NP-F 970s basically lasts you for around 8 hours or more.

I have the new X4 Circular Polarizer by Breakthrough photography and the B+W XS Pro HTC yadda yadda. The X4 is really nice. Sharp, and way better color accuracy than the BW. Both cost $120 or so. I have to say I "prefer" the X4 but haven't done any real comparison testing as I don't really use them that much. Just do your research because a lot of them are not sharp / bad color etc...