no_connection

The pi camera have a CS-mount tho, not a C-mount? The camera only have c-mount with adapter. Flange distance should be close enough to just make a thread adapter to go onto the d-mount lens and maybe just sand back the camera side 0.236mm (if the lens touches it ofc, might not) Or just mount the d-mount adapter permanently to the camera side. d-mount is 12.29mm and cs-mount is 12.526mm.

What cameras on the list do 4k 60p (internal) and also external?

I would say Fuji.

After seeing the latest clip they made with half of it in focus, sound was the least problem we had it seems. Well what sparked it was a broken wired lav but it is pretty clear it needed to be easier to use. I guess it's replan time and ether match something up with a phone or getting something like a gopro and reframe in post, or in camera if it has zoom.

I got them mixed up, it's a D5100. No manual control and auto ISO in steps is fun... I'm lobbying for an upgrade btw. I can see spending 99$ or 150$ for something cheaper that does the job and works for the use right now. But I didn't want to spend 250-300$ on something not good enough to be used later. For anything that would really need something more involved, meaning the tech crew would be involved we could just use the rack mounted Shure units.

Thanks. Yes it's not that great of a camera but it have to do for now. We have a Zoom recorder as well but syncing is too much for the ppl using it. It will be used for some shot clips and talk to the camera shorts, probably some lecture style presentation maybe How bad are the products I listed compared? By the looks of it Sennheiser XSW-D is about half price of Sony UWP-D21 or maybe bit less depending on taxes and where I can get it.

So we apparently need this so I thought I would ask for some advise. Sennheiser XSW-D portable lavalier set Røde Wireless GO + Sennheiser ME 2-II Lavalier mic Something in that price range, still think it's a bit much. Camera atm is Nikon D5200 so it is what it is for now. With any luck that might change to p4k in the future but economics is getting in the way.

I saw some HDMI extenders for the ribbon cable if you need to put the pi outside of it. It's just a passive pcb that uses the shielded HDMI cable to extend the length the camera can be away from the pi. raspistill does .png at least but I would assume the new framework would get something better.

Well the shutter should be in front of the film, but I guess it depends on how the mechanism is arranged. Probably going to have to mill away some stuff that supports the film.

Depending on the readout speed and option to trigger readout you could maybe keep the shutter system, would be pretty cool.

It looks like the new stack would solve some usability problems and hopefully allow full manual control of the camera. Did not look too closely about Camera to HDMI path but that might be the only good option for uncompressed image out of it. Recording to MicroSD probably not going to be good enough for RAW and h264 might be too bitrate heavy depending on how good the encoder is. Although shoving 50Mbit to network storage might be possible. Maybe pi4 can dump to SSD fast enough.

You need to correct the lens to something that can be stabilized before you run the stabilizer else you end up with "wobble" at the edges. This may or may not be done automatically with the software assuming planar projection so you need to get your footage to that.unless it's smart enough and have a lens profile. Also for IBIS you need a lens that have the correct projection as well, it's not as simple as "wide angle get wobble edges" cause that is just plain wrong. It's just that the lens had the wrong projection to work with focal plane shifting stabilization. Try this, take a picture, angle the camera slightly and take another. Now try to overlay and get them to match by just moving one of them. Spoiler but you probably figured out it won't match properly. I have not looked into exactly what projection is needed but I guess it's a bit fisheye with straight line being a bit bent as an object would have the same size in the center and edge allowing a simple movement to match both of them up correctly. You can always transform it back to planar afterwards. Longer focal lengths notice this way less since even planar is pretty "flat" in the middle.

Problem is I'm not that developer savvy, I used to know haw to program in Delphi back when 3DBuzz had that vtm series. But that was a long time ago. Also remember to grab or make a heatsink for the pi. It 100% needs it no matter what you do with it, else it will thermal throttle or burn you.

Think I have the V2 non IR camera. Do you think it will be possible to set HDMI output resolution and frame rate from web interface? Frame rate was one of the thing raspivid seemed to ignore for me.

We do have ATEM m/e 1 with 3 Panasonic AW-HE60s and controller, Biggest bummer is they can only do 720p at 50Hz unlike the HDMI variant. I would be fine with just a non PT angle since the latency seems to be pretty good due to HW acceleration from camera to HDMI port. But I have 6 unused geckodrive and lots of steppers so... With the new camera module that can be a real bang for the buck. Also streamdeck with companion, so if it can take html get requests or osc that can be used to control it too.

Agreed, if anyone can make a good working solution it's you. I have a Pi 3 with normal camera module and happy to test something out. I'm mostly interested in a HDMI out to external recorder and as studio camera, my experiments with raspivid was promising but could not figure out how to tame some of the manual settings. I take it the hammer is in case it does not work out?

Someone smart shuold just make the HDMI port able to handle RAW to a Ninja or something. But if this can do 720p50 out with HDMI it would be a great fill camera for studio. Or 1080 if you are into that. *edit* On a related note, do anyone have a good way of output camera to HDMI? Preferably with some way to change settings remotely.

Both have crushed blacks (black point below 0) so you can move black level a bit. It does add contrast and "punch" to an image/video and is quite popular to do. Even if it makes my skin crawl every time I see it. How to spot it? Look at the grass and tree, hair or any other area similar to that. If it gets more saturated the darker it gets the black point is below 0. You can see her face just pop in saturation like crazy and legs stick out unnaturally much. You could fix it by decreasing saturation towards dark areas and take some care not to have weird things happen.

I need to figure out a way to use my Rodenstock TV-Heligon 42mm 0.75. But with only 16mm image circle and a few mm to spare behind the back element it might be hard.

I did some flash triggering of things dropping into a water tank some years ago. Candles work pretty well for that. Had optic trigger and an old HP signal/trigger generator to adjust timing. Camera was Hasselblad something with digital back. And before you consider doing it in the living room let me tell you that bathroom is the better alternative.

It does say it in the description but clickbait title ruins any respect and credibility it might have had. Also sound is badly messed up at the start, at least for me.

A quote in a quote. This is true, but I don't see how it is relevant to any cripple. While just like the Sony the intended audience (I assume) don't care or want those features as seen in the above it is still strange to lean on it to justify not having some features.

It's so real it must be Unreal

This is the source they say they used for the original, not the one you linked. They do link the other one as "original" to look more impressive. The coloring is cool but it's not really much better that the original imo. Sharper edges tho. *edit* It does add some detail but it's spotty on what it decides to enhance. This is the first frame.

Yea it's crazy that fuji don't make it their image that you should shove cameras into unsuspecting peoples faces. If you want to be that guy and do it then it's up to you, but I can't fault fuji for not wanting to encourage and say you should use the products that way. Art or not make zero difference to me, and nether does the quality or how "good" they look or appear to ppl 100 years from now.