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This is probably a bit late to the party but does confirm the USB power.

Sure but that costs way to much. I just want the camera part of it :P

I read on cameralabs it can be powered from USB not just charged, which would make it a first unless it's not. "Micro USB for charging and power delivery"

Why can't someone put a good phone camera into a gopro like form factor. Or even a phone with bigger battery a screen and useful amount of storage.

The useful feature to take out from that would be automatic keying. Or if you want to vlog but don't want things showing in the background.

Yea it likes to crash/stop encoding for no reason, have not looked in to it that deep since fcpx + compressor does the job, even if it takes forever on a somewaht outdated mac pro.

I hope it has a good alternative to Compressor so we can finally abandon that (vimeo and audio podcast upload with metadata and all that) And that they fixed freezes and bugs.

Should be front of lens to subject I think. *edit* Sohuld be focal length in front of sensor. Since the lens could be longer or shorter depending on how it's made.

If you ever wanted to watch lenses get taken apart and cleaned then put back together you can. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCgANrFnm3Sdai8zvA2iJGQg

At least my Takumar have about the same magenta fringe over the frame when wide open but goes away when stepped down. I was just holding it up to a D810 so at 1:1 is a little less resolution than m43 at 4k. I think many full frame lenses is going to struggle a little with raw resolution, then again 135mm on a m43 is going to be very tight and any movement or heat is going to be a thing anyway.

What would be interesting to know is how the aberrations look, be it red/cyan magenta/green and so on, how it fringe around a bright light, flare, focus breathing. And how almost in focus areas look, I don't care if the eyes are super sharp when the nose looks awful, or the transition of sharp hairs to out of focus feels wrong. That is a 135mm f3.5 Takumar right? Focus ring it sooooo smooooooth!

Or someone already thought of that and made an integrated solution, who knew. It's SD only right? A small 12V battery bank should be fine for powering it since it wants 7-24V and draws 2.7W at 12V

Looks like that one is 0.3-0.5sec delay according to amazon page and it sounds about right. One option is the ethernet extender box that encodes into a h264 stream and back + two access points. Probably about 0.3 sec delay too not sure what ppl hacked that one to, about half the price tho. Think there is a thread about the box used as a cheap capture device. At best you are probably looking at 2-3 frames to encode and same for decode and maybe 2-5ms for wireless overhead so about 105ms for a 60p stream. Now what you could do is convert HDMI/HD-SDI to AHD which is analog HD used a lot for security cameras and fpv and send that over a 5.8GHz analog link and you get the almost 0 latency you want. I'm sure there are many fpv drone/plane communities that have good resources about the transmitting side of things. Not sure what resolution is the max tho. 720p could probably still work for focus but that might add another box to the mix.

Remember that noise is a linear thing, which is why bright objects are cleaner than shadows when viewed with normal display gamma. Also there is only so many photons around to begin with and that sets a base value for how little noise there can be (don't ask me how close to it we are tho). There might also be the camera compensating to match t stop and f stop between lenses. Meaning if one lens loose more light than another and that gets compensated for it will be noisier.

I usually use Unshake to correct handheld movement. It does not do any warping but does the rest well. I did try WS when it came out but could not get it to ignore surrounding movement and any person moving would shake the entire frame.

Or power it from 12V. At least I managed to get support to say that i will support constantly being powered from external supply. I don't think he knew what Synchro was but you can set shutter angle manually in 0.1* increments so I guess that works too. I still don't have a clear answer what the HDMI is suppose to output but it should be able to output 1080p50 at least so that could be scaled later. It has a tally light but no way of using it as a tally =/

Says EOS R shows no artifacting and better image side by side, in reality I can see the sweater is woven on the sony but a black blob on the canon. Although can't say that I like the temporal NR on the sony but at least it worked well on static scene.

I say properly lit it and "fake" it, cause if you can figure out and master it you will have some really valuable skills from it. Go watch some classic movies with night scenes, you can be pretty sure most if not all of them are lit, take elements you like from those and try to figure out how it was done. You can still get away with pretty low amount of light and small LED even with crappy color will do fine, you are going to have very low saturation at night anyway. a bunch of 1$ light meant for closets for example, be creative. Forget the 180* rule, if you ever walked around at night any movement will blur very fast, so cranking it as slow at it will go can work for that feel, and save you a stop of light too. It will also limit some of the "strobing" you will get from bright lights or highlights when panning.

I have wanted to do this for a long time!

Yea those match pretty good and show the difference between green and lots of greens. The first two do get a little closer haze wise but you can still see grass have same color as trees on one but the other shows they are not. Oh and while we are at it, look at the sharpness comparison video, one of the cameras have a brown grass thingy while the other camera see it as green.

I don't get it, none of the ads made the product not look like crap, is the takeaway here that all of them fail no matter the budget?

https://www.eoshd.com/2015/07/shootout-of-the-4k-flagships-canon-1d-c-versus-samsung-nx1/ It's more to color than white balance, although corrected does put them more equal it's still very apparent the difference in rendering many shades of green vs just a few. I think the point was that 90% of ppl showed bias when shown brand names instead of numbers and answered differently because of this.

Canon can definitely be bashed for being way behind, the crop was not a design choice or crippling, they simply could not figure out how to read the sensor out fast enough to get a full frame scan before the next frame. If the processor is the culprit that that is a joke too, they have cinema cameras, they know how to do it. The a6300 is still the king of barely making it tho and will probably remain the champ of all the rolling shutter charts right at the bottom, unless canon can beat it (show me the numbers).

If anyone came here for an actual answer to the question, this should put you on the right track.