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thanks I know about twixtor just haven't explored it further but how higher of a shutter do you have to be to get it right? at 30P my shutter is 60 in normal mode. Another new NX1 100% video footages, the night shots just 1 small LED light with ISO 400 the rest all natural lighting.

another project still with the NX1! this one made me Realise how good of a camera it is, I asked a friend to help me with 2nd cameras (Sony a6500 with speedbooster and canon L lens) there's about 10% footage of that maybe you can tell? sorry for late reply but here it is

Thanks everyone, the 10 bit isn't what's making me upgrade, there's little difference anyway, it's really 14bit and above that you start to see some real difference which will be worthwhile for color grading giving you extra headroom so you don't need to worry too much while shooting if you're exposed correctly or not. it's really high framerate at 4k. even my output is in 1080p, the 4k downsampled to 1080p gives you 4:4:4 pixel sampling which is the highest 1080P you can get. however because it's limited to 25fps, in music videos which is what I do most, it's not great. music videos need quick cuts, and there's only so much you can film, so we always need to slow down the action so we can fill'up time. Clients find me from my previous videos, they like what they see and they expect the same or better. I've never had a client ask what camera you use, because I deal with the artist directly so they have no interest in the technical bits...they just want you to take care of it all and talk the least tech language as possible. This video above, her previous video was made by a production company with Cinema Camera and Jib and all and she paid 5 times more, yet the result was disappointing for her so she came to me after that. (they could only film her in 1 location because the gear is big and bulky to move around, camera movement was limited, no story it had to be shot all same'day) When I work with Agencies, they do ask what Camera and lenses you use, I tell them it's 4K DSLR and give them a link to the videos I make, and tell them if they wish for Cinema Camera, it can be rented but because they're usually on a deadline and small budget they prefer I use mine. I enjoy the limitations and the challenge, it's fun :D here's another one with NX1. note that every interior scene required 2 x 100W LED lights with diffusers.... exteriors no lights just daylight alone

Thanks guys, it's really not my best work with this camera because it was done on a run and gun basis we didn't have enough time for filming but it's a combination of experience and really this forum what made me learn about this camera. I use Gamma DR with -4 con -4 sat and -10 sharpness and +7 master black level with 16-235 color space... I learned never to shoot when the sky is clear blue to avoid banding, so as you can see lots of clouds is good idea, I avoid plain walls in the background to avoid microblocking "even using higher bitrates" my ISO never goes beyond 250 this is my own tests shows skintones tend to become plastic and loss of details above that especially in 1080p so always 250 iso or under, if it's dark then you've got to add more lighting. also I have noise reduction turned off in camera, this is because I do my own noise reduction in post but it's up to you. white balance is very important, it's always custom mode or chose a preset, never chose auto because it'll keep shifting and changing and ruins your color grade. when it comes to color grading, I slap on an LUT built for rec-709 one of them is Aspen by Ricardo in this forum which I really but the M31 Lut for rec 709 works great. but some adjustments are needed, an LUT supose to just help you as a base, then you've got to build up on it by tweaking highlights and stuff depending on what you do. I find that in adobe premiere having to reduce the LUT to 80% when you start to see the grading too harsh and shows microblocking (yeah 8bit ) this camera is okay with under-exposed footage just not over-exposed, avoid blown skintones at all costs. I usually have two grades for a single shot, for example I want the singers face to be brighter than the background so I add a mask of grading just on her face this makes her stands out from the background and the back dancers. I shoot 1080P slow mo only in bright places or daylight, but always for close'ups because the quality of 1080p is degraded so in wide angle shot of a person the skintone becomes mushy and muddy so as you can see in the video it's almost always medium to close'up. I try to use as much 4k downgraded to 1080p as possible and use as little 1080p out of the camera as possible. if the nx1 had clean 1080P at 50fps I wouldn't need to upgrade it's an amazing camera...but now since slow-mo is what my clients always ask for I'm having to upgrade sadly to GH5 with 4k at 50fps PS: one trick you can do is, find your favourite video that you like their color grade, download it, put it on your timeline then just match their levels with histogram and color levels, this helps me find the right number for the luminance of the face and level of each color.

After 2 years Iam still in love with it, I won't buy new one now I'd probably wait for Canon 1DX mk2 to get cheaper on 2nd hand market until then I still do low budget music videos so the money is tight can't afford yet to get bigger better..at the end for normal people's eyes it's the story, framing, lighting that really matters not pixel peeps. here's my latest video shot in London with NX1

thanks, NX1 with 16-50 premium lens, the sharpness is -10 but since I prefer more of a flat look I use a Tiffen black satin filter to reduce 4k sharpness, pilotfly gimball, I use 0-255 because I find better skintones with it somehow redness in cheeks shows more with this mode for me but I add -15 contrast and -3 brightness as suggested in this forum to work with premiere. gamma DR with -3 con -4 saturation and 15 MBL, I tend to expose for the sky because It brings more drama to the scene but you'll need extra lighting on your subject because he would be underexposed otherwise. This was done all in one day! it was very cold in january so we shot mostly inside places but it's run and gun situation.

at 120mbps I didnt have my fast card at the time. will try again tomorrow 180mbps

I just want to share my experience with getting rid of the blocks artifacts especially on a sky, I've found out that it's all to do with ISO value! when using the gamma DR profile and a low iso this introduces very ugly blocks or artifacts on the blue channel so I tried with a high iso either 500 or 800 and turns out it reduced this by a large margin if not completely. however high iso means overexposure, so ND filter must be used, if you're shooting a talent then you'll need to reflect light on your subject too. The picture shows you the difference, look at top left corner, I've maximized the color grading to be able to see it. I also tried adding grain to the 100 iso image but that still didn't fix the blocky image. The blocks are due to the compressed 8bit only video quality and the nature of h265.

after week long extensive tests, I finally come to conclusion that I'd use Gamma DR standard with -15 sharpness and MB15 for a uniform and flat skintone look, this look is good when the actor has no makeup but for more gritty look I use gamma C which gives more color depth especially on cheeks are more red than the rest of the face however I recommend makeup to smooth the face "BB CREAM" works nicely. I didn't like -4 sat and -3 contrast nor -4 contrast and 0 sat because no matter what you do you can't return the pure black back on, if you adjust black level or contrast it affects the entire image, that's why GammaC is very good for darker tones, like horror, thriller, mystery but Gamma DR is good for comedy, romance. For nature, outdoor, buildings I prefer Gamma C, this is because it has much less macroblocking in the blue channels "sky basically" unless your sky is cloudy maybe you want Gamma DR. with Gamma C you want to expose to 0 this is because its blacks are darker, for Gamma DR I underexpose to -3. remember we are using 8bit color, professionals use 16bit color for flat profile because they have the headroom to do the grading, our cameras have to be adjusted as close as possible to your final look otherwise it will start breaking up especially walls, skys and flat surfaces where repetition of pixels occur. I also ordered a lens filter glass "Tiffen Black Satin 1" this is so I can smooth out the face's blemishes, because the camera is too sharp in order to reduce macroblockings which occur when there is too much details in sky, flat surfaces ect..you cant fix this in post it has to be fixed before the image hits the censor. Also thanks to this forum for my research, I tried all your settings, without them I wouldn't have come to my personal conclusion

thanks! maybe it's time I stop Adobe membership

also it doesn't remember the settings, you need to apply the setting each time the camera turns on and off.

I spent the entire day testing 0-255 vs 16-235 vs 16-255 and thanks to the tip for "brightness -3 and contrast -15" that I can for sure use 0-255 in premiere cc 2015 and wont have any clipping, while maintaining the full color for exporting in DNXHD and also maintain the Legal color for Youtube and Vimeo. when I used 16-235 I did a test while reducing exposure and it looked very nasty in premiere with banding everywhere, looked very clean in 0-255. with 0-255 you can recover superwhites, like clouds for example, the detail in shadows is much more and the blocking, artifacts is not there "when using bitrate hack" when using 16-255, this was better than 16-235 but still not as good as 0-255. I did notice that VLC plays the 0-255 while all other players didn't read the superwhites in 0-255 so that could be an issue. so my advice is use 0-255 with -3 brightness and -15 contrast but export 2 versions, one Legal for web players and TV and keep the original for the future.

I just downloaded resolve but it doesn't recognize the h265 videos coming off the NX1, how did you get it to work?

Hi I really liked your short on the ferrari video, it's so well done! I just have a question for the NX1 and that's ISO setting, are you trying to always use the lowest iso "100" or with gamma DR you're using always a higher iso. because in order to use film convert, you need a flat profile. but in cameras like RED that shoot RAW iso is always high.