Thpriest
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Cinelike-D and profiles tips and techniques wanted
Thpriest replied to Marcio Kabke Pinheiro's topic in Cameras
I've found mixed lighting to be the biggest problem with CineD. Which is the same as having white balance problems I suppose. Imagine natural light from a window and some overhead leds, some warm and some cold. I've found with CineD you can have one person with nice skintones and another appearing orange in the same shot depending on where they are standing. This is my experience in uncontrollable environments like someones house on a wedding shoot. With other profiles this doesn't seem to such a big problem. -
A quick question. I use the gx85 as a static b cam. If there is constant lighting I leave it in M and choose my correct exposure. Sometimes the lighting is variable ( outside) so I leave ot on A with the aperture i need to maintain focus. The thing is I find it over exposes a bit. I like to underexpose 1/3. Is there a way that I can get the camera to always underexpose a bit?
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Cinelike-D and profiles tips and techniques wanted
Thpriest replied to Marcio Kabke Pinheiro's topic in Cameras
My experience with Cinelike D is that if you nail exposure (I like to have it a little underexposed) it looks great straight out of the camera...but....if the lighting is mixed, exposure is off a bit then it can go orange! I used the Eoshd Canon Lut and whilst i liked the result I'm trying to get the best straight out of camera look. Today I'm going to test the Portrait Profile and see how it goes. -
GX85 wedding (with EOSHD Canon colour LUT) Although I now have a GH5 and only use the GX85 as a B cam at weddings here is an example of a wedding shot entirely with a GX85. It's a remarkable camera with the worst sound ever! I used the EOSHD Canon LUT at 50-70%. It works well enough but I don't like the hassle of using LUTs on these type of videos.
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It depends what you are shooting I suppose. Both the SLR Magic and the Voigtlander have a look I like, the SLR Magic having a warmer colour to it. The Voigtlander is not sharp at 0.95 but I'm using it at f1.2-f2 and it's fine for me. It might not be for you. The extra light the Voigtlander offers form makes quite a difference but I am rarely shooting in controlled environments. If you are going to light a set then the Veydras might be better.
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Maybe you should try the Voigtlander and SLR Magic lenses before buying the Veydras. I wouldn't worry about the AF on the GH5. It's not very good so no point testing it against Canon and Sony. I've been very pleastly surprised by the images I get out of the GH5. My only worry is an occasional colour shift that I have noticed in a few shots.I have to check if it was the WB, the ND filter, tricky exposure or the camera doing weird shit.
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Thanks for all the interesting replies. I don't change the lenses too often especially in critical moments but I do so when things are slower. I haven't found that changing the lenses and redailing in the focal length to be a big problem. With a few touches of the joystick it's done. It's more of a problem changing the ND filter from one lens to another but my idea is to buy Xume filter rings. For the weddings I shoot here in Spain I need fast lenses. I have even found the native 1.7 lenses to come up a bit short at times. Using the Voigtlander at 1.2-2.0 is the sweet spot when it gets darker. It's very difficult to light anything here apart from the main dance. So native zooms won't work for me. The Sigma would it was reliable enough but I see that might be a problem. Focussing at these apertures can be tricky but I use the EVF when thing get difficult and I find it excellent.
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I've been using the GH5 for 3 weeks now. in general I'm very pleased with it. I've been using a Voigtlander 25 0.95 and a SLR Magic 12 1.6 for weddings and I'm happy with the performance, especially the Voightlander. What I've found is that I need a couple of other lenses to cover my shooting needs. I like the look of the Voigtlanders (10.5, 17 and 42.5) but if I'm to invest in them it means forking out around 1700€ just for 2 of them! I originally liked the idea of light weight native lenses but after shooting 3 weddings with them I find there are times when I miss a zoom. I already have a Sigma 18-35 1.8 and a Sigma 50-150 2.8 efs Canon mount lenses so I'm tempted to buy a Metabones Ultra 0.71 (810€) and save some money! My really worry is whether this is a good idea for what is a stressful and intense shooting environment. Are the Speedboosters reliable when changing zoom distances and lenses often? How are quick lenses changes with a Speedbooster? I use MF mainly but I believe the Speedbooster would allow me to use AF to nail focus and then adjust manually. Is that right or is it trickier than a native lens? I guess I'm really wondering if it can handle the fast pace of a wedding or whether it will just leave me worried and frustrated! I know there are other threads on the Speedbooster but I haven't found much info on people using it in this specific environment. Any thoughts or experiences would be appreciated! P.S. I believe the Sigma 18-35 1.8 would end up being a 25.5-50mm f1.3 FF equivalent? The 50-150 2.8 would be 70-210 f2. Or have I misunderstood the maths?
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Aitor, Hoya Variable ND filters are good for the money. They have no hard stops and are a little bit fiddly at first but are good value. The cheapest place I've found to buy them is Fotoboom in Madrid. They can take a while ordering if not in stock. Fotocasion in Madrid is a bit more expensive but it has them in stock. The Hoyas work for me but I wouldn't buy anything cheaper. In realty I'd like a Slr Magic one but I needed one immediately so I bought Hoya. 60-80euros.
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Get fast lenses! Buy a secondhand Voightlander or SLR Magic and see if they suit your style.
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I have a Canon C100, great camera with lovely images and ergonomics but...for some jobs lugging it around all day with lenses and a monopod got very tiring. I bought a GH5 10 days ago and I've used it in 2 weddings, a corporate video and a music video. It's a great wee camera and very liberating. The only real downsides I can think of are that it's a bit more limited than the C100 in lowlight, the battery usage isn't measured in minutes and the display button is in a stupid place. I need to read the manual to see if I can turn it off!
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I'm having trouble doing the GX85 cinelike d installation with my phone. The html won't open in chrome (does't give the option to open it) and firefox opens it but it's blank. Is it possible to do it through my iMac?
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You are right about shooting something almost immediately with a new camera but if I'm honest I've done it a few times (well at least after a few hours testing). I have experience of Lumix and more pro cameras. I have used Panasonic, Sony, Canon, JVC...
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Thanks! So that is why I like the idea of a GH%. Dual recording! I always use it on my C100. The 64gb are the same, just less capacity? I can see the benefit to that approach.
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Thanks. My idea is not to match the C100 with the GH5 but rather to have a lightweight kit for weddings and certain corporate jobs. I have a GX85 and the idea is to match it with that. The GX85 is too small a fiddly but the image is nice enough (not C100 standard but good enough). I have actually shot 5 weddings with the GX85! Going lightweight was great but as I said, it's too small and the EVF is no good for me (I where glasses and it is just too small). So GX85 static widest and GH5 everything else! My other doubt is whether I can use the SANDISK EXTREME PRO SDXC 128Gb V30 95MB/s for shooting 4k 10 bit and 4k 50p on the GH5. I use them with the GX85 and they are fine. I don't need 400mbs for weddings.
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Another thing, are the SANDISK EXTREME PRO SDXC 128Gb V30 95MB/s ok for shooting 4k 10 bit and 4k 50p at present ( not upgraded 400mbs)?
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Coming from a C100, a great camera but I want something lighter and IBIS. Mainly for weddings and certain smaller projects.
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Variable ND. Works fine. Usually get between f1.2-2.8.
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I'm not talking about running with the camera, just being lightweight, moving around a lot to get lot's of different shots quickly. Adding a loupe to the LCD slows things down when you have to take it off to get a low shot with the LCD (swivelling it). If the EVF is good enough for accurate focus at f1.2 on a Voigtlander in the sun then that would be amazing.