BTM_Pix

The bundle that I got had the bullet time handle and stick in it like this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JVLLLWQ

Its quite something isn't it? The stabilisation aspect when you are making flat versions is really impressive. Did you get the long selfie stick with it? I was able to do some faux drone shots using that at the weekend on the Bollocks To Brexit march.

I think its great for making little 30 second pieces from using the re-frame function in the app. To be able to make something interesting with multiple angles from basically just being stood there holding it makes it a great holiday/event camera as far as I'm concerned.

Make sure you triple check with that supplier that it is the right one in terms of gender on the mini XLR end as the listing and the image match but as I say the caption on the image is wrong. They also have a listing for the female ended one that as with that one shows the correct product but with the wrong name on the image. At least they are consistent with their mislabelling but its worth checking !

Its less pronounced in this test but the black area above the arm of the chair shows milkier to my eye. If you put an eye dropper on those areas in photoshop you can see the r,g,b levels rising between f3.5 and f8. Interestingly though, the r,g,b levels do rise together (i.e. 0,0,0 from the border to 13,13,13 in the f8 shot) whereas if you do the same with the Super Takumar you will see how it is more biased in the red channel in those areas. Anyway, as I say, its far less pronounced in this shot so we've probably both wasted far more than the $4 you paid for it in electricity scrutinising it so I'd live with the quirks and call them character

You can get a female to mini XLR male adapter here (they have mislabelled the picture in the listing). https://www.aliexpress.com/item/20pcs-lot-KL-Mini-Xlr-Male-to-3-5mm-1-8-Mini-Female-TRS-Audio-Adapter/32544035870.html Unfortunately the minimum order is 10 pieces but I suppose it means you would always have spare ones handy !

Its pretty much obligatory as trying to zoom with it and support it at the same time is a bit of a chore balance wise. Not to mention the danger of nipped skin. I'll try it with my GX80 tomorrow and let you know how the IBIS thing goes as it will be a 70-700mm lens on that!

Inevitably, the answer to both of those questions will be "all of them and then a few more just to be on the safe side"

It travels compact but expands rapidly! Its f3.5-5.6 so it benefits from being on a speedbooster but its perfectly serviceable without. No IS but I wouldn't be shooting handheld with it anyway. After a bit of haggling I got it for £350 if I remember rightly.

For all of the specs that you are after @Mark Romero 2 at that price point, its difficult to look beyond the FZ1000. If you can up the budget and hunt around for a deal then a used FZ2000/2500 might be a good route because of the internal ND. If you don't mind losing the mic input then Panasonic do compact form factor versions of their 1" cameras (TS100/TZ100) which might be more appropriate for travel (the FZ hybrids are pretty bulky) that also have the touch screen option. They can also be persuaded to shoot in Cinelike D if you know the right people The Olympus is a good option if you can budget for the lens but again you will lose the mic input. An alternative to the Olympus if you were OK with going with an interchangeable lens system would be a used G80/85 that you could get for just above the budget and would get the mic input, IBIS and also an articulating screen which might be important if your son wants to do vlogging/selfie stuff. A completely left field suggestion would be the Insta360 OneX as it really is a great travel video camera option in my opinion if, as has been suggested, the bulk the stills shooting will end up being done with a cellphone. With a bit of shopping around you get one of those and a used Panasonic LX100 which would be a great combo if more serious shooting is also required.

No, I haven't. It might have been this one that you are thinking of which is the definitely not lacking in zoom range Canon 35-350mm L

I'm expecting the Sigma MC21 EF to L adapter to be released next month so I'll be doing more EF comparisons as I've got a hotchpotch of different ones that I'll now be able to use on my SL. The focus control being woken up for the Pocket4K with the new Metabones firmware is a bit of a game changer as well. Not so much the AF (though it is useful but only 1 shot) but being able to control focus remotely using the joystick/app combo is pretty good. I'm off to Japan in a few weeks and I'm looking at some interesting prices there for the Sigma ART 24-35mm f2. I will of course be checking in at the secondhand store run by the two somewhat, erm, "curt" older gentlemen to see if they have any FD stuff for cheap.

Always good to snag a bargain! I've never actually owned an FD mount lens though I do own an adapter that I'd bought in advance when I was supposed to be buying one but the deal fell through . Was it by chance a 135mm version that I was supposed to be buying ?

I remember that @Andrew Reid had one but not sure if he still does ?

No problem. For completeness, this link is for all of the L mount adapters for all mounts that B&H carry https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?ci=3420&fct=fct_camera-body-mount_1595|leica-l&N=4077634486

Here are direct links to B&H listings (and one ebay) for adapters that you need. FD mount https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1455241-REG/kipon_fd_sl_adapter.html F mount (with Aperture control) https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1455330-REG/kipon_nikon_g_sl_adapter.html EF Mount (I'm presuming EF mount for your Rokinon lenses?) As you don't need any electronic control of those lenses then this dumb adapter will be all you need. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Canon-EOS-mount-EF-lens-to-Leica-T-L-T-adapter-LT-T-Type-701-Mirrorless-camera-/400895423962 If you DO need electronic control of EF lenses (including AF) then this is the CURRENTLY available option. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1265614-REG/novoflex_sl_eos_canon_ef_lens_to.html However, it is not particularly good so the best option is to wait for this Sigma one. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1463159-REG/sigma_sigma_mc_21_mount_converter_lens.html If by chance you have PL mount versions of those cine lenses then here is the adapter https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1295947-REG/novoflex_let_pl_pl_mount_lens_adapter_to.html For M Mount you can get this which is Leica's own official one but cheaper 3rd party ones are available https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1046772-REG/leica_18771_m_adapter_t_for_leica_t.html Hope that helps.

I suppose the first step is to eliminate the light variation aspect and do a different test under artificial continuous lighting. If you include a greyscale chart then you will be able to evaluate a bit more objectively what is happening from shot to shot with differing apertures. You can download and print these from a gazillion places if you haven't got one but here is an example site. http://www.kozco.com/calibrat/gray.html Use the grey background to set white balance and also use the spot meter to set exposure from it too. With the camera in aperture priority mode you should then have a consistent exposure across every shot as you change aperture. I would do a shot at every aperture not just the two that you were originally using just to see if and where the change begins. When you are done you should be in a better position to start delving into what is happening by comparing RGB values of the different swatches on the chart at different apertures and also things like from the EXIF data note any shutter speed differences that don't align with what you might expect with a one stop change of aperture etc And then when you've done all of that go and buy the Samyang

The thread for it is here.

When Nikon do a mid generation upgrade of their pro cameras they suffix it with an S so the D3s followed the D3 before they switched up to the D4 etc. Olympus really dodged a bullet by not following that example between the Pen1 and Pen2....

I had considered the lighting change but I couldn't see any difference in the spread of highlights on the bottom of the piano keys where I would have expected them in that situation. Its that inconsistency that set me against the Petri as I don't mind the lower contrast of it per se

A bit of a crisis here. So I thought that my addiction/collection was six so I'd figured out a way to have a tournament where they were seeded so that the Nikkor, the Leica and the Contax Zeiss would be automatically in the semi-finals and the fourth one to join them would be the winner of a preliminary round. I have just got them all out to line them up to give them a bit of a clean before doing it tomorrow and can you spot the flaw in that plan ? It strikes me that with having seven then the only fair way to do this would be to have an eighth one to make it four seeds and four non-seeded lenses so there would be four quarter finals and then the semi-finals and the final. This is clearly the Lord's way of telling me to buy that Samyang isn't it?

I agree with this. I'm very curious about the contrast difference between the f3.5 and f8 shots on the Petri @kye I'm presuming its a difference in a post correction rather than the lens causing it ?

Here is a scan of the user guide. Page 74 onwards details the operation of the light meter. http://www.cameramanuals.org/leica_pdf/leica_m6_ttl.pdf With regard to exposure control in general, depending on the conditions you are shooting in, you may find the 1/1000th shutter speed to be a limitation if you are using ISO800 film and shooting at f2 as you are describing. In that case you would have to either carry some ND filters with you to keep the correct exposure within those fixed parameters or pull (overexpose) by setting the ISO lower on the camera for the metering and then have the overexposure corrected during development. For the opposite problem where you do not have enough light you would push (underexpose) by setting the ISO higher on the camera for the metering and then have the underexposure corrected during development. A guide to pushing and pulling is here https://thedarkroom.com/pushing-and-pulling-film/

Just a bump about compatibility with the v3.1 firmware for Metabones Smart Adapters.

Confirming that 3C is fully compatible with the new v3.1 update for the Metabones Smart Adapter so you can now use all of the focus control functions with your adapted EF lenses. I've been testing it today with a broad range of different types of EF lenses (Canon primes, Canon EF-S wide zoom, Canon long L zoom, Tamron superzoom and the Sigma ART18-35mm) and I have to say that the focus transitions are generally actually smoother than they are with most of the native MFT lenses.