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BTM_Pix

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Everything posted by BTM_Pix

  1. No, its just that's what the screens are usually used for. You just give it HDMI and some USB power and away you go. There are some very thin credit card sized USB power banks that you could just tape on to the back to both keep the size down and make into a case. As I stressed in the original post, don't expect it to be a replacement for a SmallHD 501 or whatever but I'd say that for vlogging it's more a case of confirming framing so its adequate for that. The thing about Sony is that they have the flip up on their much cheaper HD only APS-C A5100 which is pretty much the same form factor case as the A6300 so they ARE doing this to annoy you
  2. I think we gave up on 3D too soon. I went to see Kraftwerk in Budapest recently and unlike their previous shows I've been to which had 3D graphics at certain times, the whole show is now 3D. Yes, it might well be seen as a cunning ploy to distract you from the fact you've paid good money to watch gentleman of a certain age stand behind laptops in less than flattering outfits but it is completely engaging. I think mass audience experience stuff like that is where its at (which is why I enjoy it at the cinema too) rather than at home. Always feels a bit weird to be sat on your couch wearing sunglasses, probably due to the old adage of there being only two types of people who wear sunglasses indoors - blind people and dickheads. I had one of the Sony HDR-T10 3D camcorders when they came out and whilst it had a few shortcomings, it had potential. The lenticular LCD was great for showing the content without glasses and I really wish they'd continued developing the line. Its a similar thing with VR stuff and I hope that doesn't go the same way too. A few months ago, I went to a VR Cinema in Amsterdam and it is basically just a room with 30 swivel chairs and you go in, sit down, put the headset on and they show you the film (which were all shorts) that you request. The one that really struck me was a doc that had a scene on a packed train in India and was filmed from the POV of a young woman that was illustrating how intimidated she felt by unwanted male attention. Not exactly the most upbeat of content but I have to say that it was utterly absorbing and put you in the moment far more than it would have done in a 'flat' medium. There are a ton of hurdles to overcome for people to produce narrative with it of course but if it can convince me to that extent that I'm on a train in India anxiously checking everyone around me instead of being sat on a swivel chair in Amsterdam with a cheap headset on then its worth pursuing in my view.
  3. Do you have the grip with it and if you do is it giving as significant a bump up on the AF performance as we see on the X-T2 ? I hesitate to say "should everyone who is considering buying the X-H1 get a grip" as that can be easily misconstrued and we'll end up needing this fella as a moderator.
  4. Why the hell someone at Atomos isn't going "You know what, that 4 year old Ninja Star product could do with an updated version that does 4K" I just dont know. They do a lot of stuff aimed at other cameras like GH5 and even LS300 and yet there is this Canon shaped gift horse giving them a massive toothy grin and they sail right by. Maybe at NAB they might release one and shut me up!!
  5. OK, speculation mode ON On a stills oriented camera like the X-T2 you can maybe brush only being able to do 720p remotely under the carpet but its trickier to do on your video oriented one where it WILL be used. You would think that you wouldn't willingly cripple the function like that unless you had some sort of restriction (presumably with processing) that dictated it. Something to do with it using so many resources in full video mode that it can't deal with the wifi comms at the same time would be one likely possibility. If I follow that theory along then it would make me think that it is almost analogous to a dual boot system and that when you put the WiFi on, it "re-boots" for want of a better expression into stills mode and stills mode CAN handle video recording but only in 720p. That may well also explain why you can't even re-map a button to start video recording when in stills mode as a compromise to the physical switch objection. If we remember, there was also evidence of a lot of side effects of correction processing happening when stepping through zoom ranges in video mode on the X-T2. The DR100/200/400 impact on AF is perhaps also adding to a pattern of let's call it potential quirkiness when Fuji are doing video. I seem to remember saying at the time when IBIS was generally considered an impossibility on any future Fuji cameras that maybe it wasn't such a bad thing as the zoom lens issue on the X-T2 showed that they were having enough issues processing image correction in real time as it was without adding IBIS into the equation. I expect to see a LOT more side by sides happening with the X-T2 to see if that particular chicken has come home to roost.
  6. The 720p thing with the remote app is utterly ridiculous. Is it still the same on the X-H1?
  7. Its interesting how much raging debate there was in threads about these two cameras when they were announced. Did anyone on here actually ever buy one in the end?
  8. I don't use the expanded DR settings myself either on the X-T2 but a "positive" that can be gained from this issue is that it may actually offer some insight for Fuji regarding why the AF seems to be gathering reports as being inferior on the X-H1. It might not just be the DR100/200/400 setting thats impacting the AF but an indication of an interaction between certain image processing tasks and performance. I wouldn't wait for 8 months with this one if I was them though as that A7iii is batting its eyelashes and showing a lot of ankle to potential X-H1 owners right now.
  9. To be fair, the Febon ones are a lot more expensive than the projected price of the LukiLink and in terms of the app the Febon is just basic display rather than adding the focus and waveform overlay so its probably been a tough nut to crack (certainly based on that proof of concept video). https://www.febon.net/categories/grabber-card
  10. He does refer to the sensor size and I thought it was a slip of the tongue at first when he said it "offers twice as good image quality overall" but he is quite happy to stand in front of that slide saying exactly the same thing all the way through it If such a thing as the best photo/video hybrid exists though (more likely least worst) then the A7iii is shaping up to be a contender.
  11. The same off the shelf one from above has an iOS version as well which to be honest looks even faster so hopefully it was just early days and LukiLink have got that optimisation sorted as well as this sort of performance with all the added focus and waveform aids will be great. I hope its a big success for them and, yes, crowd funding could do with a win.
  12. I don't particularly mind him but he definitely lost me from 7:42 with the "2 times better image quality than the X-H1" stuff to be honest.
  13. Should be OK I think. Off the shelf ones like this one here have quite respectable lag times (certainly at lower res) so hopefully the optimisation that LukiLink have described doing to their version will be even more impressive.
  14. BTM_Pix

    Cheap bokeh setup?

    Just to put some meat on the bones (or Metabones in this case) of what you could expect from the Sigma 18-35 in terms of DOF on a Micro4/3 camera when coupled with a speedbooster, I've just gone outside and done this quick test for you with a Panasonic GX80. This is it at its minimum focus distance wide open at 18mm, focused on the 0 of the scale. With the effect of the Speedbooster this is f1.2 at an equivalent FOV of 27mm. This next one is it at its minimum focus distance wide open at 35mm, focused on the 0 of the scale. With the effect of the Speedbooster this is f1.2 at an equivalent FOV of 51mm. And this last one is it at its roughly 2 feet wide open at 18mm, focused on the 0 of the scale. With the effect of the Speedbooster this is f1.2 at an equivalent FOV of 51mm. In all instances, the ColorChecker is 6 inches behind the focus point (i.e. 0 on the Spyder Lenscal) With a roughly 2 inch DOF at this aperture even on a Micro4/3, you might want to stop down a bit for run and gun
  15. Its not really an MP3 player but it does have a little speaker in it that I could persuade it to play shutter sounds from classic cameras as a deluxe add on Yes, the double handled gimbal is exactly the sort of application where it will be useful.
  16. You can do it with the same precision as you can with their app. I'll leave you to work out what that means! They only offer two levels of sensitivity in terms of speed of focus movement so I scale those on the joystick to give some feeling to it and to be fair its not that bad. Hard stop A/B focus points driven by the joystick will be incorporated. Joystick driven focus point (i.e. use it to move to a point on the screen and then a single press A/F) will be incorporated as well.
  17. Its needed because that is the unit that controls the camera over wifi instead of having to use a computer or a smartphone. The screen will be used for other stuff such as adjusting custom presets and setup etc. The reason for the mode that its in there, mimicking a top plate LCD on a camera, is because if you are using the camera on a gimbal or jib or even on a rig then you are likely using an external monitor for which you will probably like have the HDMI output of the camera have in clean feed mode (for recording) so you won't necessarily have this information on that screen. As I said in the post, in this instance it is mounted on the hotshoe but it can go anywhere you want within wifi range and still be controlling and showing feedback from the camera. If you look at the bottom of the previous picture I posted, you'll see exactly that. That takes your control input, passes it on to the MP3 player which then interprets it and passes it on to the camera. I'm not sure I'd mount that on the hotshoe myself but you could if you wanted to. The whole system is wireless so within the limits of the bluetooth transmission range from the controller and the wifi range from the MP3 player you can mount them wherever you want. Or you don't even have to mount them anywhere. You could hold that controller in your hand and have the MP3 player in your pocket and it would still work like that if you wanted to.
  18. Park Cameras and Camera World both quote 14th of March on their websites. So, Wednesday apparently but I suppose people with pre-orders might have had an email if that is the case. In my experience, the kit lens bundles are generally available on the launch date but body only mysteriously stay in short supply for ages...... https://www.parkcameras.com/p/7014826K/mirrorless-cameras/sony/a7-iii-full-frame-mirrorless-digital-camera-body If you are near Birmingham next week, I expect the photo show at the NEC might be a chance to get your hands on one and - if it actually is out on Wednesday - possibly jump the next order queue as all the major dealers are there flogging stuff.
  19. Yeah, they have space to hold the Raspberry Pi, so this is what a typical one looks like. To be honest though, its not such a bad thing as you could use the empty space where the Pi would have gone to house a USB power bank for it. You'd probably be able to persuade something like this to fit in it.
  20. BTM_Pix

    Cheap bokeh setup?

    I remember them doing that video and was just about to post it! Its obviously a bit unwieldy but it definitely does have an interesting look and is hands down the cheapest way to where you are trying to get to. This video uses the same approach but doesn't detail which adapter he's using.
  21. This was originally in response to @IronFilm asking in the Blackmagic area about a cheap screen for vlogging on a BMPCC but thought it might have some interest for other cameras too. Plus, I've moved it on to be just a bit more than a vlogging screen as well. So... This is all based around of the 3.5" monitors that are designed for the Raspberry Pi. It is completely barebones but supply it with an HDMI feed and some USB power and it'll do the job for you. I just put it in a cheap phone hotshoe mount and voila, cameras like the GX80 here can have a front facing vlogging screen. If you want to be posh then you can have it in an acrylic case for a tiny bit more ! Because of its resolution, you're only going to want to use it as a framing and a "is this thing on?" aid but if thats all you need then its adequate for that. I've tested it with Panasonic (GX80/G7), Canon (EOS-M), Sony (RX100), Nikon (D500) and Fuji (XT-2) cameras but I can't vouch for it with all cameras. Its got a fairly low res screen but the the cameras I've tested it on scale their output but with the JVC LS300, you have to set it 480 and there may be others out there like that but for £12 the worst thing that can happen is you've got a handy little plug in HDMI cable checker. There are a gazillion sellers so take this one as just an example EDIT >> ORIGINAL EXAMPLE LINK DIDN'T HAVE HDMI SO CHANGED TO NEW EXAMPLE - SHOP AROUND FOR BETTER PRICE THOUGH https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/1080P-IPS-3-5-inch-HDMI-LCD-Screen-Display-for-Raspberry-Pi-w-Acrylic-Case/382391593643?epid=8015535815&hash=item590850aaab So, the additional part is that this morning I've been busy with the gaffa tape and the lateral thinking and turned it into a full blown powered EVF. I'm using the loupe that comes with the Sigma DP0 but any old £12 DSLR one off eBay will do and you can supply power via a usb power bank and in this example I'm even running it off a little box that gives you USB power from 3 AA batteries. Once you have it like this then you can then put it on an arm or whatever to make a fully fledged adjustable system. My loupe has a plate underneath for mounting it to the tripod thread of the camera and a lot of the cheap DSLR loupes have this as well for adjustment which makes it easy to attach an arm. I have to stress that the resolution is not all that so take it on the merits of it being a cheap and cheerful way of adding a vlogging screen or a more flexible EVF than your DSLR offers for those occasional times when you may need them without having to invest a load of money and you won't go far wrong. For the LS300 though, which has an utterly abysmal EVF that is so bad that you will actually question whether its faulty, then this combo actually completely smokes it. To recap Screen : £12 Loupe : £12 Power : £3 Mount : £3
  22. You might want to consider one of the 3.5" monitors that are designed for the Raspberry Pi. It is completely barebones but supply it with an HDMI feed and some USB power and it'll do the job for you. I just put it in a cheap phone hotshoe mount and voila, cameras like the GX80 have a front facing blogging screen. If you want to be posh then you can have it in an acrylic case for a tiny bit more ! Because of its resolution, you're only going to want to use it as a framing and a "is this thing on?" aid but if thats all you need then its adequate for that. I've used it with Panasonic and Sony cameras so I can't vouch for it with the BMPCC. Its got a fairly low res screen but the Panasonic and Sony scale their output down without a problem but I had some flaky things with a BMPCC and even BM's own HDMI>Thunderbolt recorder so as I say I can't vouch for it but for £12 the worst thing that can happen is you've got a handy little plug in HDMI cable checker. There are a gazillion sellers so take this one as just an example https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-5-inch-LCD-display-Monitor-Suitable-for-Raspberry-Pi-V3-0-with-Touch-Screen-H8/162870969536?hash=item25ebddc4c0:g:vH4AAOSws0Jaar-I
  23. No (EDIT!!! as in "No, your wife is mistaken") all of the other settings are still available, you just select them as normal in the menu. The best approach is to save a Cinelike D version as one of your C settings so you can recall it from the camera instead of having to do the hack each time. The hardware device above includes the Cinelike profiles in its list of profiles as though it were like the others so you can switch to it without saving it as a C setting or having to do the hack each time (as it is doing the hack each time itself automatically when you select a Cinelike profile). Instructions for switching using the C settings are here
  24. Tried it myself. It didn't end well.
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