BTM_Pix
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Posts posted by BTM_Pix
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16 minutes ago, Emanuel said:
Yet seeing the tool as demanding on the way you have to approach to deal with it. It is like a marriage. We can't handle a 2nd wife like we did in our 1st round or we risk to still fail no matter our goodwill to work around the task. Workarounds have their own specs from their own. We don't invent them, we need to adapt them. Filmmaking is invariably a workaround, the tool is primary and secondary at the same time; never the shooter though (E :-)
The workaround in this case as far as I can see thus far is to switch it off
Honestly, this isn't about unrealistic expectations or wives or anything else - it just isn't working very well.
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11 minutes ago, jonpais said:
Supposedly, the GH5 only has around 11 or so stops of dynamic range. How many stops of dynamic range would you consider adequate for a filmic look?
Its a bit of a how long is a piece of string question but if you based it purely on this year's Oscars you'd say 'how many does the Alexa have?' which is 14.
Purely arbitrary though as, judging from that clip, I'd say you're doing just fine without the other 3
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7 minutes ago, Brian Williams said:
No, I only have this 35mm. I'm pretty happy with AF, its not great in this test just because my office is so poorly lit I think.
No, its not necessarily about the AF performance per se just about conflicts with lens corrections combined with the ones it is making with IBIS.
Even trying it in MF might be worth a go.
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1 minute ago, Brian Williams said:
Sure, and likewise, people should just say "yeah, the IBIS isn't that great", as opposed to "you need to fix your technique... there's no perfect camera... quit being such a downer".
If this was a sun blackspot in a Blackmagic camera, or overheating in an A6300, or IBIS panning issues in a G80 (later fixed by firmware), it would be recognized as a real issue.
I'm hoping Fuji pulls through, like they usually do, and offers a kickass firmware update at some point that improves things.
I couldn't agree more with this.
I got accused of having 'real problems' a few pages back for actually trying to look at exactly what is going on with it.
From everything I've seen, the IBIS on this camera - even taking into account the sensor size - is a long way even from from being 'isn't that great'.
Its not about expecting miracles.
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Its better.....but the right hand side of the cabinet is going berserk at 0:37.
Have you got a non-native lens you can put on it to rule out additional lens and AF corrections it might be making at the same time?
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I'm not suggesting he did anything to mislead but the screen shots of him adjusting WB etc were of a completely different scene to the actual comparison footage with the RED.
Can't see an ND filter on it (as they're usually clip on with smartphones so would be visible on the stuff where he's showing it on the gimbal with the RED).
However, perhaps the most salient point here is that neither can you see any ND on the lens on the RED, so that would suggest they would both be on 1/800 hence why they aren't showing any difference.
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I think the BMPCC/BMMCC/BMCC etc are fantastic sensor and storage solutions to base your own custom cinema setup on.
Whereas I think the GH5 is a fantastic camera.
With the BM stuff, they give you the insides but you have to provide the camera that goes around it, if that makes sense.
Both very worthy approaches but both very different and one doesn't negate the other.
I look at the BM stuff versus a GH5 like the Sigma Foveon cameras versus something like a Fuji X100F.
Both APS-C, both fixed lens but the Fuji canes the Sigma at every turn for low light, speed and functionality but then you look at the RAW images from the Sigma.
Thats not to say the GH5 can't make fantastic images because it demonstrably can but just that - like the Sigmas - within a smaller operating window of and with a lot more effort in post the BM stuff can make images that truly shine.
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42 minutes ago, Michael Skoz said:
Hey wizards,
im interested in "Auto Brackets" and changing or setting up the exposure from +-3 ev to a higher Number like +-7ev or +-9ev.
I can go manualy and change it everytime by hand, but there must be an better solution. For shooting high dynamic range spheres etc. .
Canon has the magic latern Firmware, which can set the exposure value up to +-10ev.
Any suggestions?
Best regards from germany
Micha
If you are OK with this being done from an Android app then its not a massive deal.
You'd have to set the base exposure in manual mode from the app but as long as the calculated brackets don't exceed the particular camera's preset shutter speeds (possible with those sorts of ranges) then it will be OK.
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It depends on the size of the power bank but we are measuring in hours rather than minutes.
I ran that test the other week with a 4000mAh one and got bored after two hours of powering one and it had run down one out of 4 bars on the indicator. They are literally credit card sized but a bit thicker so even carrying a spare isn't going to be a hardship.
Something like this one will work as is and even has the acrylic case which you could store the power bank in (in the space where the raspberry pi would have gone)
I think @Kisaha has just ordered this one or one near identical to it
The ones I'm sourcing are designed for VR headsets so they're OLED and better native resolution but the price is a fair bit higher.
I've got a 5.5 inch 2K 450Nit one just come in from China to evaluate from the same supplier so I'll see how that goes first.
With regard to the remote control, this is a readily available one that covers most functionality.
https://www.cinegearpro.co.uk/products/cgpro-bmmcc-bmmsc-focus-zoom-record-remote-controller
There is scope to do something like that integrated in a handle for example with a display as well and even an Android remote interface to it.
Basically, these things are all Arduino based boards that talk to the camera so there is no end of things you could attach to it in terms of thumbsticks and switches to have dedicated direct control of all the key functions. It all depends on what someone would want.
That one for £99 is not bad though.
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Yeah, the Video Assist is what they would like you to use with it but, like all the 4K recorder ones for GX80 etc being 7", you end up with a ridiculous situation where its dwarfs, unbalances and generally takes away the point of a compact system.
I've found some 3.5 inch 720p displays that I'm going to pimp my DIY EVF with which would be ideal as they can be powered off a gentle following breeze (well, a credit card thin USB power bank).
LukiLink would be a good solution as well when it ships.
I've no idea what the sales have been like for the micro but I've always expected them to drop in price and they never have as I'd probably be very tempted at a lower price.
It just that little bit too much when I add up all the other bits I'd need to make it complete.
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These adapters can help the battery situation so you can use long run Sony batteries.
As for a monitor, I think BMD are keen on everyone buying their Video Assist for it
The remote control options via the expansion port cable set are very interesting with the BMMCC. I've seen some quite cool home made hardware remotes for it.
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2 hours ago, jonpais said:
Still waiting for proof of his statement several days ago that the Kinefinity Terra 4K uses the same sensor as the GH5S, supplied by Sony Semiconductor.
The theory is that its this one.
Based on the specs, it would add up.
https://www.sony-semicon.co.jp/products_en/new_pro/may_2017/imx294cjk_e.html
It is also used in astronomy cameras as well so there does in theory exist a way to make your own very ghetto 4K raw C mount camera system by attaching it to a high end windows tablet. As the module is quite small, it wouldn't be too dissimilar conceptually to what is being shown on this thread attaching the RX0 to an Atomos. Not dissimilar prices either.
https://www.firstlightoptics.com/zwo-cameras/zwo-asi-294mc-usb-30-colour-camera.html
Someone has done a video here
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1 hour ago, Prandi said:
And if I then read "Deal Maker to a Deal Breaker" because of the best ibis currently oh god you (BTM_Pix) have real problems: -) ... but you do not photograph with xh-1 (x-t2)?
Not every camera is suitable for everyone, I think .. ;-)hope I understood you correctly
EDIT>>>>>
I'm trying to be less argumentative so I've deleted my original response to this but suffice to say that you couldn't have missed the point of my posts more if it they'd been written in invisible ink.
I do hope you can see the irony in your offering the sage advice that 'not every camera is for everyone' immediately after criticising someone for explaining exactly why - in its current form - that camera isn't right for them though.
<<<<< EDIT
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6 minutes ago, Andrew Reid said:
I'm debating whether to get the grip. Does it run off 3 batteries in total with the grip attached? So one is in the camera, and two in the grip. I believe battery life to be quite a bit above average (when not in boost mode), for a mirrorless camera. Although for stills, vs a Nikon D5, obviously it isn't going to run as long on a single battery. 900+ shots on the grip though, I believe?
Yes, its 3.
I've had a few times with the X-T2 where it doesn't run them down in a sensible fashion where the internal one drops before the other two which means I have to take the grip off to get to it for swapping out which is a pain in the arse.
It can run without the internal one and just uses the ones in the grip so thats often a better solution as you can leave the grip on permanently then.
The problem I have with the battery life with my work is that I have to leave the camera on as it needs to be grabbed and be ready for work instantly like a DSLR would be and I found it a bit too docile in waking up again if I had the power management on. Added to the fact that I have to be in boost mode as well doesn't help so whilst it won't chew through all 3 in a game, it can, depending on how busy I've been with it, need one swapping.
What doesn't help with the X-T2 as well is that the power switch is extremely easy to move to the On position when its being transported in a bag so I had a few times of arriving at a stadium and unpacking a very warm camera that had ate 3 batteries so now I make sure its got none in when its travelling !
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3 hours ago, jonpais said:
I might be wrong, but I think the best way to truly see how the highlights roll off is not only to see the clips before and after grading, but also to have a look at the waveform monitor, which few YouTubers do.
Its quite informative to take frame grabs from YouTube clips and bring them into FCPX and look at them on the scopes and see how much some people often leave behind and how other people are eeking out everything thats there.
You can do it in real time too if you attach your Atomos as a second screen on your computer and display the YouTube window on that
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3 minutes ago, Kisaha said:
I know exactly 3 pros that own Fuji. Everybody is expecting the XT-3.
One of the biggest issues they have, among others, is batteries. They have to change a lot per day (and they never owned Sony I guess!).
My impression is that XT-3 will be a much nicer camera ready to compete at the higher end, while this one seems like an after-thought.
It certainly enjoys consuming batteries when its in boost mode thats for sure.
The good thing about the grip though is being able to power it externally if needs be.
6 minutes ago, Inazuma said:They may need to add settings to tone down the IBIS so that it doesn't make as many abrupt movements. I think other cameras with IBIS would benefit from this too.
They make the AF pretty tuneable so hopefully they might do the same with the IBIS but there is a danger with that much tweakability you can end up in a bigger mess so I could understand why they wouldn't.
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37 minutes ago, Attila Bakos said:
@BTM_Pix I noticed this in many X-H1 IBIS videos, I believe the only solution is to hold it as steady as you can (ninja walking, no running) or use an additional gimbal, otherwise you will have these sudden corrections when the IBIS has no more room to hold the image in a fixed position. It's still better than IBIS on full frame.
Indeed.
I wasn't expecting miracles from it but I suppose the rule of thumb is if you can see it working then its not really working as you need it to and its just too jarring for me.
The IBIS has gone from a deal maker to a deal breaker for me when it comes to switching from my X-T2 as it was really the single most compelling reason.
Still, its Fuji so it ain't over til the firmware fairy has been!
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1 hour ago, Vladimir said:
here is video that made my mind about x-h1 ibis:
and a comparsion with a7r3 where's a difference pronounced even more:
I have seen someone saying there's only 40mbit/s for 120fps.
please can someone who already own x-h1 at hand confirm this? I wonder if this is a case for in-camera slowed down footage ( and then its kinda make a sense: 40 * (120/24) = 200)
Yeah, the second one was one of the ones I saw where I thought "Have you actually got IBIS enabled on the A7iii ?" and looking at the comments, I wasn't the only one !
In the first video though, whilst it obviously canes the A7iii again, I can still see the same sort of coarse changes.
If you look at between 2:07 and 2:10 just as an example, the water pipe does an abrupt move to the left from one frame to another.
I've pulled three frames here and done a difference overlay to show how it is transitioning from the first two frames (where nothing much but the bush is moving) to the one where it has to do some work and makes the jump. In the brickwork, there is slewing as might be expected but also some scaling changes that all adds up to a bit of a mess that I think is what is making it so jarring.
I'm not some mad pixel peeper as a rule but some of these transitions I'm seeing are very rough as are the less than subtle scaling changes even when its not being taxed too much.
21 minutes ago, Matthew Hartman said:It looks like good ole fashioned RS to me. WS does other weird crap when it confuses movement for scale. This is my eyes looks like a delay in the line reading. That being said, I've seen much worse on my NX1 and some Sony models.
Its like a Scooby Doo transition at times though
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3 hours ago, Kisaha said:
For £26K I think I'd go for the Hasselblad H6D-100C and get some medium format RAW 4K.
I reckon it probably takes decent stills as well
Now DJI own them, I do wonder how long it'll take to filter down to an Osmo !
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3 minutes ago, Django said:
Yeah that warping is weird, i didn't experience anything like that. wonder if Gordon used warp stabilization in post or could that even be rolling shutter distortion?!
All of his stuff is straight out of the camera so I think IBIS, rolling shutter and lens correction got together and had a party.
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32 minutes ago, Django said:
@BTM_Pix My short experience with the X-H1 IBIS was that it was really solid when holding still or doing pans, walking is when you might notice some micro-adjustments but imo all IBIS systems somewhat fail when you start walking. it's what gimbals are made for. XH1 IBIS is still miles ahead of Sony FF imo..
I'm more concerned with the rolling shutter on XH1. it seemed to me worst than XT2 (borderling A6xxx). But maybe i'm wrong. Perhaps @frontfocus or someone could compare/measure it and report back to us on that.
The A7iii looked abysmal in one side by side I saw so, yeah, even accounting for the different sensor size the Fuji fares well in comparison.
I just don't like what I'm seeing it doing when it does hiccup though in that its almost like an entire frame has skipped. I mean, obviously it hasn't but its a similarly jarring thing.
There are a whole lot of things wrong with this Cameralabs test (not least the shutter speed) but watch for example from 18 seconds onwards at the blue wall on the left.
I've pulled out a sequence of frames here and there is a fair degree of sliding and warping in the image that troubles me and when I saw it in motion it looked like an unnatural jump between frames 2 and 3.
Yes, its not something I would do with it myself but I've seen quite a few examples of it doing this on less extreme motion.
I'm going to have to try one myself and see what its like.
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I think this Fringer EF>FX with AF adapter (when its ever available in stock again!) and the upcoming Kipon version with the focal reducer will make a big difference.
I have to say though that the IBIS on the X-H1 bothers me more every time I look at demos on YouTube and is making me sit it out for a while yet to see how it progresses. It concerns me more than the AF issues actually. With those you can always workaround it (by using your own eyes
) but some of the coarse corrections I've seen on people's demos are terrible and, of course, permanent.
Of course, I'm basing this purely on watching other people's footage rather than personal experience so thats a big disclaimer right there and I'm hoping someone who actually owns one can contradict it.
There is a lot of curiosity about whether Fuji will do a firmware update for the X-T2 for internal F-Log and/or Eterna and I have to say if I was them I would steer clear of that for a good while as, for me at least and I'm sure a few others, if it has those then I can't see enough in the current IBIS performance to make me upgrade to the X-H1.
- Kisaha, jonpais and Trek of Joy
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3
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Motion Cadence
In: Cameras
Posted
Well, that's dinner sorted tonight then...
https://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g293925-d4492725-r189425765-JJ_s_Fish_Chips-Ho_Chi_Minh_City.html