BTM_Pix
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Posts posted by BTM_Pix
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8 minutes ago, jonpais said:
Unfortunately (or not), it is not available on the app. I say 'or not' because I've found that my pictures are much sharper when shooting at wide apertures like I do when manually focusing, at least when you must use the camera's own LCD screen. The app can only be used for autofocus. BTW, almost all of the screen grabs I've posted until now have been with the tap to focus feature, which I don't think I'll ever be using again, now that I've seen how much sharper the images are when manually focusing using focus assist and peaking.
Oh well, was looking for a shortcut !
I have an implementation of it that can do it externally (for all Panasonic cameras not just GH5) but it needs some re-thinking to make it smoother.
Cheers anyway
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You couldn't do me a massive favour at some point could you @jonpais and fire up Panasonic's smartphone app and see if the function can be triggered from there could you?
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26 minutes ago, Kisaha said:
Wow! That Focus OLED is sexy, but 350nits just isn't enough under the hot, almost permanent, Greek sun.
If that number was over, or close to 500, then I would have serious buyers remorse for my Focus!
5.5" is the absolute best for small minotors though.
@BTM_Pix I seriously believe this is your panel!
I suspect it might be a bit more than £78 though !
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7 hours ago, Michael Skoz said:
wow! Dude! How? impressive, i would try it? If this really going well, then u should go public with it!
All done.
Here is the link to the post with the standalone version
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OK, another day, another app
As I originally mentioned, the Bracket part of my test app was a bit flaky but as another forum member wanted just the bracket part, I've made a dedicated one.
Usual story, activate the Wifi on your Panasonic camera and select Connect.
Choose the base shutter speed with the Shutter button.
The choose the number of plus and minus steps that you want with the sliders.
These are 1/3rd steps so its 6 stops in either direction.
Depending on your particular Panasonic camera, you may have to activate electronic shutter to get the upper values if you've got a high base speed and have a number of + steps.
If you don't activate electronic shutter then it will just go as high as it can with the mechanical shutter and then repeat the same frames after that.
When you are all set up, press the Bracket button and it will begin executing the commands, beginning with your base frame and then doing the over and unders that you have set.
To prevent overloading the Wifi and to take into account slower FPS cameras there is a delay built in between frames.
Download link is here
https://mega.nz/#!92R11RaC!4IuYvd7SWu3UKpHzRK6nZA1PFPRruSEDw1nFp7ERXf4
Enjoy !
- Michael Skoz and Timotheus
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2 minutes ago, TomasSunyer said:
Potencially it can be as flexible because of the flange focal distance of the Kinemount, but you either need Kinefinity or 3rd parties to build adapters.
Agreed.
And if it gains traction - which I hope it does because I like it - then we'll hopefully see that happen over time.
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6 minutes ago, IronFilm said:
False.
I don't agree.
Can only think of the E mount adapter where the Terra wins?
I'm not sure thats a bigger win than having the MFT mount on the GH5s?
Kinefinity's boosted EF mount is only 0.72 reduction whereas you can go deeper than that with a Metabones EF to MFT.
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10 minutes ago, DBounce said:
I do sort of feel like the GH5S is a bit like the more trusted version of the Terra 4K. Same sensor, but with better warranty and service. Also weather sealed and in a smaller package.
And with a more flexible lens mount.
And less expensive.
But minus the RAW.
Its tricky.
You might be surprised how dinky the Terra 4K actually is when you actually have one in your hand though.
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8 minutes ago, IronFilm said:
Well studio sound or post production is quite different to production sound recording.
But still yeah, BMD has a few strands there they could pull together into a sound recorder. They're closer to it than when they pulled a camera out of the hat! That was a surprise.The particular personnel I'm in mind of have a background with both (we were former colleagues in another lifetime!) so maybe they might yet do it.
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12 hours ago, IronFilm said:
Or a complete odd ball surprise such as Atomos/AJA/Blackmagic giving it a go at making an audio recorder and leveraging their years of knowledge in making recorders already (but totally different kinds of recorders).
BMD bought some very relevant knowhow when they acquired Fairlight (there is a lineage from key members of their R&D team that leads back to analogue consoles) so they could definitely do it.
Speaking of Australian companies acquiring technology, what news of Rode's progress with an affordable Soundfield ?
Might we see that launched at NAB perhaps?
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4 hours ago, Michael Skoz said:
wow! Dude! How? impressive, i would try it? If this really going well, then u should go public with it!
Its integrated into one of my test apps in another thread.
But give me an hour or so as I want to write a standalone version.
I'll update here when its done.
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No problem.
Hope it works and doesn't break your phones.
Or your cameras.
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OK, as requested by @Grimor I've just written an additional app for live tweaking of the parameters.
Usual instructions, so put your Panasonic camera into wifi mode and attach your phone/tablet then press the Connect button in the app.
Select a base profile with the Profile button and then tweak away on the sliders.
Press the STILL button to, erm, take a still and the REC button will start a video recording.
While the video is recording, your tweaks are still live to the camera and will be recorded.
Download link is here
https://mega.nz/#!djgk1aIL!fzloi_GiFqTNULCcYhCaG0oZHes6sQd-RzW_PsUlK-I
Enjoy !
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5 minutes ago, Grimor said:
BTM, first of all, thank you for this and congratulation again.
I play with the program a little, but i can't take the point to the combination test. (Stepper method)
I think it will be more usefull (to me) just simple slider for each value (contrast, sharpness, NR, saturation) and play with them with a hdmi external monitor to see the changes in real time. (Without going to the camera menus, loosing the image-reference).
Something like Panasonic Profile Slider App.
If the slider say the number of value that is sending to the camera, will be the best way to found the "golden combination" in the field.
But anyways really great job, consider a donation page or similar because your work worth it.
I agree regarding a real time tweaker (as with my hardware one) but, yes, this is for a different purpose to build a complete reference file of all the permutations in a very structured way.
Let me get back to you about a tweaker app as its not a huge effort to knock one together if you want it.
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Just a couple of additional notes regarding intended usage.
Unfortunately, Panasonic don't offer a way to control the highlight and shadow parameters remotely which is why they aren't included.
However, what I would recommend is you setting up the parameter ranges you were interested in using the app and doing several passes with adjustments to the highlights and shadows between each pass.
This will achieve the same end.
With regard to doing this as stills versus video, the purpose of the video is so that you can put it on a timeline and not only observe the changes all in one place instead of ploughing through hundreds of stills but also to be able to add a LUT to it so you can see if there are settings changes you can make in camera to better prepare it to be used with a particular film simulation LUT you may have.
The benefit of the stills is in making your own LUT without the image changing !
Obviously, don't also just think this is for analysing dull test scenes and colour charts but take it out into the outside world and see what you can extract from the sensor and processor in a real scenario.
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1 hour ago, Kisaha said:
@BTM_Pix Great analytical mind, just wish you were in the NX camp when the mod/hack scene was a thing!
Amazing stuff, nevertheless!
I thought they did plenty well enough without my ham fisted blundering about !
Its portable to the NX though from what I can see of their protocol.
If I had one.
But prices seemed to take a big jump in the last few weeks of March for some reason
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So, as you may recall, I have an interest in tweaking the combinations of the basic profiles in the camera along with the contrast/sharpness/saturation/NR parameters.
The purpose of that is basically a mining operation to see if there are some combinations that perhaps may not be intuitive but whose interaction may yield pleasing results.
Outside of the usual "select cinelike d, reduce everything to -5" etc stuff that we all do, who really knows if Natural with +4 contrast/-5 sharpness/+3 saturation/+2 noise reduction might actually be the golden ticket?
I did a hardware controller last year based on a midi control surface that let you tweak the parameters in real time which, whilst offering a way of 'discovery through play', wasn't exactly ideal from a structured testing point of view.
It also wasn't particularly practical (or cheap) for you to go out and replicate yourselves if you fancied a go !
Anyway, in pursuit of something a bit more structured, I created a very simple automated testing app which I thought I might as well hand out in case anyone else is interested in this sort of thing.
Its Android only so you elitists with that other phone type are out of luck for now
As its also a bit of a utilitarian thing that was only really designed for my own meddling, its not exactly pretty either but it works. Mainly.
OK, so here is how it looks, how to use it and what it does.
First things first, obviously, is to enable the Wifi on your Panasonic camera as per if you were using their app and then go into your phone/tablet and connect to it.
In the ProfileStepper app, you then press the "Connect" button and it will take control of the camera. It might complain the first time about approving the connection but if it does just repeat and it will be fine.
Once connected, you press the individual parameter buttons and select the range that you are interested in so in this example we have set it to be using the base Natural profile and how it looks with all permutations of Contrast from -5 to +3, Sharpness from -2 to 0, Saturation from -5 to +5 and NR from -5 to +1.
Next up is to set if you want to use Stills or Video, which we toggle between by pressing the Stills button and then to create a delay (of between 1 and 10 seconds) between shots you press the button (currently set to 2 seconds) and select it.
When you are happy with the settings range, press the Start button and the app will begin compiling the list of commands it needs to send to the camera. As this is a variable amount of time (in our example there are 2079 commands
) you may see a progress pop-up before it proceeds to the playout screen. Be patient.
The progress screen will then appear and display the value of each parameter in the set it is sending to the camera and the current progress (in this case we are on set 4 of 2079).
After it sends each set to the camera, if you have the mode set to Stills it will then fire the shutter on the camera. Obviously, make sure you have a decent memory card capacity if you are testing a lot of permutations!
If you are set to Video mode, a recording will begin on the camera as soon as you pressed the Start button and the changes will all be recorded into this one recording. This is where the Delay function becomes useful as it determines how long each setting is held on the video as it progresses. As with the Stills mode, be careful regarding capacity as if you have 1000 permutations with a Delay time of 5 seconds then, well....
In either mode, pressing the Stop button will abort and return you to the main screen and if you are in video mode it will stop the recording.
The purpose of the progress screen is not just to provide you with a countdown to whats going on but also meant to act as a slate so that you can put your phone/tablet in your test scene and the settings will then be embedded in the images/video when you review them. This is an example frame from a GX80 to illustrate.
There is a 3 second delay built in to the beginning of the command playout process to allow you to do this but obviously as the camera is being controlled over Wifi you can place the phone/tablet in the scene and press Start from there anyway. This just gives you a chance to get your hand out of the way !
So there you go.
Its a bit of a niche app to say the least but might be useful for some.
Bear in mind, its not really meant to be about analysing every single permutation in one go (though it can do that if you want) its more about helping you to look at how more targeted ranges of settings interact with each other (such as Saturation and Contrast in a specific Profile for example). And what exactly is the Noise Reduction bringing to the party in terms of colour shifts and sharpening etc.
Download link is here
https://mega.nz/#!Vux3UDIK!TPJNYc8gJ6YrQY5T8xkZRAQ_IpBac16xIIGe3ET6R0Y
You'll need to set your device to install apps from non-Play store sources etc.
Its completely free, no ads or any bollocks like that.
As I say, its my own test tool and wasn't designed for general release but thought it might be useful to share.
If nothing else, its a quick way to get the Cinelike D hack on to your camera!
Because its just a quick and dirty test tool, there is no particularly elegant error handling going on (other than telling you that you haven't connected the camera) so if it throws one up just quit and restart it.
If you set the To range to be lower than the From range (i.e. the From is -3 and the To is -4) then it won't execute the commands so don't do that.
NB - The eagle eyed amongst you may have spotted the Bracket function at the bottom of the screen. This does exactly what you might expect but its unrelated to the main function but I needed it to test something so you get it as a bonus! You set the shutter speed and then the 1/3rd steps above and below and press Bracket and it takes the required frames with suitably altered shutter speeds. Its a bit flaky on some Panasonic cameras because they don't all allow the 1/3rd shutter changes so your mileage may vary and, as I say, you can largely ignore it.
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I largely think we've managed to get things arse backwards when it comes to emulating a film look.
Because everyone now has the ability to change everything about an image in post there is barely any emphasis on getting it right - or at least consistent - in camera first.
If a camera manufacturer said :
"OK, we are putting all our eggs in one basket here but we have absolutely perfected an in camera look that is identical to Kodak Vision 250D (for example). Our entire sensor and processing design is based on purely just replicating that but we guarantee that if you shoot with this it will be indivisible from if you'd used that stock. Oh and you'll only be able to use it to shoot up to ISO800 though".
Would you buy it?
I think I would.
Personally speaking, taking away all those variables that offer endless rabbit holes to explore but often just disappear down and making something work within a constant framework would be challenging but ultimately more creative and productive.
This is a really interesting piece about preparation in camera to match film and the follow up piece is here :
http://yedlin.net/OnColorScience/
Its quite timely that this has come up because I've been interested in tweaking combinations of base colour profiles and constrast/saturation/sharpness etc parameters in Panasonic cameras for a while with a view to mining some in camera combinations that may not be obvious ones but actually work well visually.
The timely part is I've just finished an app today that does automated stepping through all combinations (from selectable ranges) whilst either capturing a still per combo or as one continuous video with the changes embedded.
I'll give it its own thread tomorrow if anyone is interested.
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I think where we may end up with this is concluding that the only way to truly differentiate the motion cadence between two cameras is by shooting unicorns in full gallop.
12 minutes ago, mercer said:We have a chain of gas stations opening up in our area that is known for its fried chicken... yup a gas station.
So it doesn't matter whether you go there for fuel or chicken you're going to end up with gas either way.
Smart marketing.
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2 hours ago, jonpais said:
?. God, I’d kill for some fish and chips now. Not a thing here in Vietnam, I guess.
Well, that's dinner sorted tonight then...
NAB 2018
In: Cameras
Posted