BTM_Pix

One thing that's becoming increasingly apparent about Fuji is that the corrections that they have going on with their lenses don't play nice when you're using them in video mode. God knows what it would look like of they added their own version of IBIS into the equation.

I've generally found it to be OK but have only really used it indoors and not in places with a lot of other wifi kicking about. Looking at the Play store, it seems a common theme on Android as well.

Well, in terms of fixing it, its escalated quickly! With the aid of a packet capture app, I've worked out that there is an initial authorisation step that the app uses with my GX80 and G7 so by replicating that I've now managed to get them both working so I suspect it'll be the same with the GH5. Its a bit clunky as the first time it asks you to authorise and then times out but it recognises the device next time round and thereon in. If you don't mind having a go, then this is the process. ----------------- FIRST TIME ONLY Put the GH5 in WiFi mode as though it were being connected to the smartphone. Connect Mac/PC to the GH5 WiFi Put this command into the browser : http://192.168.54.1/cam.cgi?mode=accctrl&type=req_acc&value=4D454930-0100-1000-8001-020A000270B8&value2=D2304 The camera should ask you to authorise connecting to this device. Agree to it and the camera will do some hour glass spinning and eventually time out and say there was a connection fail. -------------- ------------- SUBSEQUENT CONNECTIONS Put the GH5 in WiFi mode as though it were being connected to the smartphone. Connect Mac/PC to the GH5 WiFi Put this command into the browser : http://192.168.54.1/cam.cgi?mode=accctrl&type=req_acc&value=4D454930-0100-1000-8001-020A000270B8&value2=D2304 Then this one http://192.168.54.1/cam.cgi?mode=camcmd&value=recmode It should then display the Under Remote Control message and wake up its main LCD/EVF display. Change to manual mode or Shutter priority and set shutter speed to 1/1000 (or something other than 1/640 !) Then put this command into the browser and it should set the shutter speed to 1/640 http://192.168.54.1/cam.cgi?mode=setsetting&type=shtrspeed&value=2390%2F256 --------------- Under the previous connections in the WiFi setup of the GH5 you should see D2304 as it authorised it (even though it seemed to fail first time) and this is what lets you get past the new restriction. If you could have a go on the GH5 and tell me if it works that would be great so I can get on with the rest of my cunning plan! If you want to mess about with the settings in the meantime, if you download the stuff from that PersonalView thread then you should be able to manipulate the other settings such as ISO etc as long as you take the initial steps I've listed. Does it do it out of inactivity Jon or intermittently?

Yes, I'm just piggybacking on other people's work but I can't find anyone doing anything beyond the GH3/FZ1000/LX100 era. Something definitely changed for G7 and GX80 so suspect its the same for the GH5. Which it looks like it is. Which means if I can find the solution for my G7 and GX80 then it should be the same. Original work is here https://www.personal-view.com/talks/discussion/6703/control-your-gh3-from-a-web-browser-now-with-video-/p1

Nice one. Well, not nice one for it failing obviously! But same message as the other ones that fail, I think I might have a lead as to resolving this. Thanks a lot.

Bit of an usual request (with request being the operative word actually) but I was wondering if someone with a GH5 could do a quick test for me. What I need you to do is put the WiFi on as though you were going to use the remote iOS or Android control app but then actually connect to the Camera's WiFi through a computer (PC or Mac doesn't matter). When its connected, go to your web browser and paste the following line in and hit return http://192.168.54.1/cam.cgi?mode=camcmd&value=recmode What I need to know is if the camera then says "Under remote control" or some similar message or instead gives you a message telling you to update the App. If the GH5 does actually go into remote control mode, can you then put it in manual mode and set the shutter speed to 1/1000th and then paste the following command into your browser and hit return http://192.168.54.1/cam.cgi?mode=setsetting&type=shtrspeed&value=2390%2F256 NB - These commands just mimic what the Panasonic ImageApp sends to the camera so the GH5 is not being hacked or being put in any danger! I have done this on an FZ1000 and LX100 and it works without issue but the GX80 and G7 don't want to play ball. I just need to know if the GH5 has the same issue because if it doesn't then I might develop a little something that could be of use.... While I'm at it, if anyone with a GH4 feels like having a go that would be appreciated too !

Here is a test showing it with a Contax Zeiss 50mm f1.7 and a Panasonic G7. Shots are 1.7 with a dumb C/Y MFT adapter, f1.7 with the Fotodiox, f2.8 with the Fotodiox and f4 with the Fotodiox. As you can see, it does the field of view part right at least but sharpness doesn't make a comeback until f4 Crop of the f1.7 with and without the Fotodiox.

At a motocross race this morning to shoot stills but remembered @mercer was asking about 1080p50 on the X-T20 so flicked it to video to capture a few quick segments. Anyway, I'd previously only seen the exposure shift with the wide primes but its evident here when I was altering focal length tracking the riders on the cheap 50-230mm I was using. Handheld so apologies for the shake and rough tracking.

Blimey, if this is the improved version then that Light Cannon must look like you're shooting through tear gas. I'll post something up later as you never know the look it produces might be appealing for some people. In which case mine is definitely for sale and because they're not available in most reputable dealers, they're now quite rare but I'll let it go for a bargain £500 for the good folks on here

The Sirui carbon version is the established one that has a lot of good reports from users for this type of self standing monopod. Ok comparison video here

Maybe one of the new Libec hands free monopod might be a compromise when out and about Jon?

I've bought most of my Fuji lenses used but I don't really feel too violated by the prices I've paid for the new ones. Its a pity Sigma have stayed away from the X mount though as you can see from the MFT stuff they do that they certainly offer a good alternative. I've only got really basic MFT lenses despite having quite a few cameras that can take them and its definitely down to that idea that I look at something like a Sigma ART 35mm 1.4 in Nikon mount and think "well I can mount that on my Nikons, Fujis and the MFTs so I'm getting 3 lenses" so nothing in MFT stacks up against that in practical or financial terms. Its the same with the Fujis being tied to their own system of course but as they are predominantly for stills for me, the AF isn't negotiable so I have to have them. Fuji's summer deals are supposed to launch next week for Europe and I expect this deal for the three f2 primes on B&H might be one of them https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1338126-REG/fujifilm_xf_50mm_35mm_and.html I'd be tempted by a similar MFT set but its the price of the wides in MFT that really stings and puts the prices way over the cost of the Fuji set.

If you want to inadvertently gain some, erm, 'quirky' looks from your perfectly good Contax Zeiss lenses and make yourself £140 poorer in the meantime then I can't recommend the Fotodiox Excell+1 C/Y to MFT reducer enough. You gain the extra field of view and a terrific 'shot through a bunsen burner' central blue flare whenever anything remotely considered to be brighter than a coal mine at night passes across it. Not only that, if you don't close the lens down by three stops, you get a built in diffusion filter. Not like a ProMist, more just like actual mist. And not like shooting through a sheer silk stocking but more like shooting through woolen tights. That are covered in more tights. Its some feat for a reducer to gain you one stop of light and then you have to pay it back with two more in interest if you're shooting anything other than 80s soft porn. I'm selling mine if anyone wants one. Hardly used. As long as you count not hitting myself over the head with it whilst sobbing and gently repeating "stop buying crap because its cheap"

I have just got the Lens Regain version for MFT last night. I had to take it apart as the tripod foot won't let it mount on the LS300 because of the ND wheel position. Depending on the rotation of how you put it on the FS7 you might find the same thing but with its ND wheel being higher you might be OK. It works, it just means it not a quick swap and you have to be very careful with it as the weight of the foot pulls down on the wires while you are turning putting it on the camera. On the upside, its not some proprietary plastic ribbon cable but actual discrete wires so if it does break its fixable by anyone with a soldering iron. The fit of the receiver/control unit into the mount is flimsy though. Not related to the Sony version but might be of interest to anyone getting the MFT version is that it was also very tight on the mount of the LS300 (worryingly tight actually) but was OK on a GX80. Reading some reviews on B&H, some people are finding that its too loose on the MFT side of the mount so obviously some consistency issues might be a concern. Or maybe mine is a later revision where they've improved the tightness of the MFT side a bit TOO much!! I tried it with a few different lenses of varying quality from a Canon 16-35mm 2.8L and Sigma 18-35 1.8 ART to a Tamron 17-50 2.8VC and a cheap Canon EFS 10-18 4.5 which I had pre-modified to work with it (i.e. sawed the back of the mount off). And they all worked with it, although I had a bit of an initial idea that they didn't because I didn't realise that you had to switch it off between lens changes as it calibrates itself to the whole throw of the lens when its powered on. As a consequence, I put the Canon 16-35mm on and happy that that was working put the Tamron one on only to find it would only focus on a really restricted range. I put that down to it maybe not being supported but then put the Sigma on and was getting a similar thing. I started to wonder if it was the LS300 and something going funky because of that very tight mount so switched it off and put it on the GX80 which of course worked flawlessly and then I put it back on the LS300 and it was now working. Well, you get the gist of how the penny finally dropped about what was happening! So, yeah, switch it off between lens changes! What I would say though is to check that all of your lenses are supported. I wouldn't see a problem with the 24-70 or 70-200 but there are a few variants of the 300 (I presume its the 2.8?) and your 800 is one that I highly doubt they'll have had access to in testing! Probably a good thing to seek out existing users for confirmation as well because Aputure's own site only lists about 15 lenses. The A/B transitions thankfully look a lot better on the files than they sound in real life as it really is a bit crunchy stepping between positions. The transition speed control is OK but has a lot less finesse than a zoom rocker switch on a broadcast lens for example. I'm sure someone somewhere has tested how variable it is but it does feel a little bit fast, quite fast and quite slow. I'd need to test it more though and you should look at some of the YouTube videos to make a judgement. I can't vouch for the IS as I really haven't tested it enough and I've only got mainly wide angle Canon mount lenses with me at the moment. Ditto battery life and range. I'll do a proper thing when I've had some proper time with it. Interim verdict = Not shit at all.

Sorry, I meant if you run through the zoom range on the 10-24 as a test you'll clearly see even on the screen the points at which the exposure changes occur (like little flashes) If you then set the focal length for your shot midway to be between two of these flash points (or more likely just after one) and see if it makes a difference. It might not work - and is less than ideal as in all likelihood the focal length that doesn't show the problem won't be exactly the right one for your shot - but better to move the tripod a bit than try and correct that exposure change in post

Looks like it dips when its stopped having to do anything when the pan ends? From the zoom test - which you should be able to quickly do yourself and see on the 10-24mm - you'll see that its at fairly set transition points that it changes the exposure. I'm wondering if a possible workaround for what you are having a problem with right now is to just tweak the focal length a few mm and try it again so its corrections aren't passing through these transition points? Its a long shot and probably won't work but doing the zoom test should let you see where the transition points are and have a go.

I've just done it again with that switched off and the results are the same when doing the zoom test. So if it is the same root cause then it wouldn't appear to be related to that. Are you seeing these changes as flashes throughout the pan/tilt or is it a permanent change of exposure?

It sounds suspiciously like it. The tests I did had it happening on the short zooms.

Its odd how Canon don't have anything in that area and have just let Panasonic and Sony have a clear run with the FZ1000/2500 and the RX10. The XC10 had the requisite spec for them to spin it into a consumer/prosumer rival to them and potentially dominated.

I don't have a GH5 so I was drifting along reading that. And then he mentioned a new version of the LX100

Sorry, my lack of clarity remembering there. You do it whilst in stills mode and save them through the custom settings in the IQ menu. That item is not there in video mode so they must be setup in stills mode. You can then select the profile using the Q button before you switch to video mode and it will use those settings. You can then tweak the parameters of that profile while in video mode by pressing the Q button but if you want to change to a completely different profile then you have to quickly switch to stills mode and select it through the Q button before going back to video mode. It's far less clunky than I've just described when you actually have the camera in your hand! The reality is that you'll probably have two profiles - a stills one with everything flat and the video one with ProNegStd -2/-2 etc although I have a few for different white balance and NR settings for night matches under floodlights

Yes, same process. I haven't got it in front of me but it saves some additional stuff too if I remember correctly. I think it might be the custom AF settings but don't quote me on that.

I did some 1080p60 on Sunday with it at a game. I'll post a bit of it when I get back from this trip in a few days. You can save 8 custom profiles which store your combination of film simulation,ISO,WB,NR,File type,Highlight,Shadow,Saturation and sharpening. They are accessed off the Q button and then you scroll through them. Makes it really fast to go from stills profiles to video ones etc

It depends on what you're going to use it for. The X-T2 is better in terms of build quality and ergonomics (especially the joystick) but I've used them side by side for work and what ends up in the image file is identical. I don't find the AF lacking and for what I'm using it for the AF does get exercised heavily. The reduced FPS and buffer weren't a practical issue either to be honest. As for video, well you lose the 1.17 crop in 4K so there is some potential artifacts involved but I'd need to do full A/B comparison but it's not jarring enough for me to draw attention to itself. And there's no FLOG but there's no additional £1000 to pay for an external recorder either. The compact size is a bonus for me but I will definitely look at getting the X-T10 side grip to make it a bit more ergonomic. In a straight choice then of course I'd have X-T2 but if it came to saving or raising funds for additional stuff then I wouldn't be fazed by having to 'make do' with the X-T20

The problem with the NX1 is that the people who have them know how good they are so the sort of dirt cheap second hand prices you'd expect of a dead system that wasn't able success either just haven't materialised. Same with cameras like Sigma DP2m which when it ended up being sold off at £300 new then you'd expect to pick up second hand ones now for half that but the people who have them know what they've got and won't be getting rid of them! If NX1s were at the sort of level that I thought they would be under those circumstances (£400-500 ish) then I'd say chop in the XT2 for an X-T20 and a used NX1 and have the best of both worlds!