BTM_Pix

Sorry, I'm not following what you are asking then. Can you explain what you mean ? Are you asking about Tilta's focus motors or about their focus wheel controller ?

Its a slightly different situation with this as its calibrated to distance and is sent to a specific point without passing go and collecting £200 so the clunking and grinding that you'd get with a contrast based AF system as it is hunting isn't in play. The first three clips in the video are actually on an adapted Sigma 18-35mm on a Metabones Smart adapter so its certainly not lacking in speed or precision. Having said that, there are quite broad variances in EF lenses in terms of precision so with some of them you might get a smoother gradation with a motor and lens gear but then you're adding the bulk/powering of the motor and getting gear rings on some EF-S lenses particularly or even a nifty fifty is a bit of an additional chore. The simple solution is to buy both types of course 😉

Yep, the EXIF temperature data is just the relative reference gauge to what is happening as its the calculation that triggers and then resets the inhibitors that is the key issue. Clearly, it is not being sourced from an external area as it would match the ambient temperature of the room so it is relevant as a partial indicator of the internal temperature. I'm old enough to remember when the crutch that was being used for this camera was that it was OK as long as you didn't shoot long video clips and even if you did it was only supposed to overheat in very hot ambient temperatures. If nothing else, 60 jpegs in a fridge has totally removed that crutch and the defence of it is all getting a bit Black Knight from the Holy Grail now.

Yes but its a fairly long pipe at the moment. The next most likely version of this particular one is a motor based universal version. Although the original GX85 hack came from me building a controller for it so you never know I might go back to my roots!

It doesn't need the Nucleus Nano to work, it operates the camera focus system directly. It gives you the option to also be able to use the Nucleus Nano wheel to control focus manually for those who prefer to have that type of tactile control.

You can also use a Tilta Nano wheel wirelessly with it simultaneously too so there are no shortage of options! The whole trip from the AFX sensor to the camera via the PBC is around 40-50ms.

Hell of a day to be on the "Its a stills camera, you should be grateful it shoots any sort of video whatsoever. There are no problems if you just shoot stills with it" team.

The more cynical ones are just keeping their powder dry so they can make a new "I was WRONG about the R5" with sad gurning face background. Then the "Have Canon FIXED the R5 with this new firmware ?" with puzzled chin scratching gurning face background. Then the "Canon R5 six months later" with excited gurning face background. Then the "Have I really swapped my R5 for a Polaroid instant camera?" with shocked gurning face background. And on. And on.

Thanks. Who wouldn't be driven to drink trying to make this work? On a serious note, the idea of using the bottles (and the shiny marble kitchen surface) in those clips is that the reflections and angles present a greater challenge so is an illustration of how it can work when presented with that challenge. 1) Yes. There is an adjustable hold and transition time for the AF-C mode. The purpose of these clips was to illustrate speed and accuracy of target acquisition in both modes. As you can see from the SpiderCal focus chart clip, continuous tracking of moving objects is reasonably smooth. 2) No, there is no interaction with the screen. Target acquisition is always closest object in a central zone. 3) Yes. The concept of the AFX is really about expanding the overall focus options that you have rather than being a 100% "always on" continuous autofocus system. In this sense, the idea is that it can also be used in addition to and in tandem with with your existing options so its probably worth going through the logic of how that works. With AFX set to AF-S mode : Pressing the upper trigger on the hand controller acquires focus. Using the joystick up/down on the hand controller controls focus manually. Pressing the screen on the camera activates the camera's internal one shot AF function. Pressing the joystick right activates the camera's internal one shot AF (this is an example as the stick can be assigned to another function such as AutoWB etc) If you have a Tilta Nucleus Nano wheel attached you can use that to control focus manually. Pressing the joystick left switches to AF-C mode With AFX set to AF-C mode: Focus is continually adjusted by the AFX Other focus functions can still be used but will be overridden when the AFX detects a change of distance of its acquired object. Pressing the upper trigger on the hand controller toggles between engaging and disengaging AF-C. Pressing the joystick left switches to AF-S mode With these options, you are free to use the AFX as much or as little as you require depending on the scenarios you are facing. So you might just use it in AF-S mode to acquire instant focus of the target and then it will leave it locked on that allowing you to then tweak it or move it completely using the joystick on the hand controller or Nano wheel and then use the trigger to acquire the next target as and when you want to. In another scenario, like covering an event, you can just put it in AF-C mode and turn it into an autofocus camcorder but, again, with the ability through the controller to instantly regain control of focus without touching the camera. Its the dynamic ability to switch these things in and out and use them in combination, or not at all, that, in my opinion, makes it a useful and versatile addition to the arsenal rather than a single magic bullet solution. You'll have to wait until October to get a glimpse of that one 😉 I don't want to belong to any club that will accept people like me as a member. Thanks. Oh yes....

Well, at the very least, the one that @Andrew Reid is using (and @mechanicalEYE I'm presuming too?) is an actual shop bought camera so whilst the firmware is undoubtedly not going to be the last and final one they ever do for it (unless they are mad), it is nonetheless the one that retail units ship with and there have not been any firmware updates issued by Canon for it.

AFX is the long overdue focus control expansion option for our PBC system for BM Pocket4K/6K cameras. With AFX and its included handheld remote you can control manual focus of MFT/EF lenses but also operate our newly created Single and Continuous AF modes for the camera. These new AF-S/C modes are made possible by the AFX’s integral ToF sensor which constantly measures object distance from the camera. As well as allowing you to control focus using the thumbstick and AF-S/C switching, the handheld remote also enables you to map any of the camera controls such as ISO/Aperture/WB etc to five of its hardware switches as well as being able to toggle Record Start/Stop from one of its two finger trigger buttons. All communication between the AFX, the handheld controller, the PBC and the camera are performed wirelessly and, as with the PBC, the AFX runs from its own internal battery or USB. The AFX will be priced at €199 (plus the cost of the PBC for new adopters) and pre-orders begin next month. Here are some basic examples of the AFX in manual focus, Single and Continuous AF modes. In AF-S mode, current focus is held until you press the trigger button so is equivalent to half shutter press/Back Focus Button on a regular (D)SLR or mirrorless. More to follow as the pre-order date approaches.

Its in the link in the original post.

I've never actually used any of the products on that list (aside from 10 minutes with an S1-H trying to get its bluetooth working) so I'm not in a position to judge.

I tried to download it. It lets you download 8K of it but then you have to wait an hour. Or you can continue to download 4K at a time every 10 minutes for two hours. If you are downloading to an external drive though you can carry on downloading as much of it as you want.

Triton Audio do a bi-directional phantom power blocker. Not cheap at £36 per channel but cheaper than buying a new F4. https://www.thomann.de/gb/tritonaudio_phantom_blocker.htm

Insert your own "Well, the heat management is certainly innovative, I'll give them that." joke here

Sorry about that. The description of it was a bit misleading what with metioning Konica AR just the five times and all that! "Fotasy Konica AR Lens to Leica L Adapter, Konica AR Leica T Adapter, Konica AR Leica SL Adapter, Konica AR Panasonic S, Konica AR Sigma L, fit Leica SL TL2 TL T & Panasonic Lumix S1 S1H S1R Sigma fp" There are plenty of AR to M adapters around so combined with an M to L adapter that would do the trick. The M to L adapter very rarely leaves my Leica SL or T or Sigma fp bodies as I'm either using M lenses on them or using it as an intermediary to C/Y or R so it is very useful, particularly as prior to Panasonic and Sigma making L mount bodies there wasn't such a comprehensive range of adapters and those that were available tended to be expensive. So now that there is a much bigger market has meant manufacturers have started to make low cost direct to L mount adapters I will probably pick a few more up. But for holdouts like the AR mount then the M to L as an intermediary is still an option.

Fotasy do one. Out of stock at Amazon so you might have to hunt a bit to get one. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004X9Z32E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_btf_t1_ZxgoFbMPTA4FN

I was doing some software control of it and its internal fan kicked in so hard that I thought it was about to become the world's first switcher drone combi. Honestly, I did agonise about putting that in but as I was referring to the specific named function on the camera (and had included screenshots of the manual) I wasn't sure there was any right answer. Coincidentally, part of the product that I'm developing for the ATEM does have an aspect where those terms would be used so of course I'm having to come up with alternative terminology. I'm thinking "Leader/Follower" .

Mine does. Those savings pay for the camera bodies. Its the guys who's wives are into the Space Opera genre of Sci-Fi that you have to spare a thought for as they're taking a double hit. Its all fixed lens 2mp 640x480 cameras for them.

Thanks. It will be a formula based on a combination of the actual temperature, the last time the temp status threshold was triggered, subsequent processor uptime and projected impact of the current settings rather than a basic clock calculation. Storing it on the memory card would leave the camera vulnerable to overheating damage with a powered off card swap if someone inserted a fresh card. The onboard RAM by its very nature would lose the value on power down as it is a volatile storage medium. There is no internal drive powered by a battery or otherwise. The internal coin cell battery is used for the real time clock, which we have proven that reseting doesn't effect the recovery times. Which leaves the NVRAM. Performing a settings reset doesn't actually even clear all of the user's settings so it is not in that area of NVRAM and by consequence that means any accessible area.

The app has a single button press function which sends the camera date/time ahead by one year. It doesn't resolve the issue.

EDIT>> Sailing on by.

If you are comfortable with the monitoring capabilities of the fp in terms of fixed screen, no false colour etc and the file sizes and the data processing of 12bit RAW CDNG then there is absolutely no benefit. From my own personal point of view, my ageing eyes will thank me for the brighter, tilting screen and additional exposure aids and my ageing MacBook Pro will thank me for the ProResRAW or just plain ProRes if I want to. Thats the beauty of the modularity of the fp in that you have these sort of options to stay compact or add more functionality based on your personal needs.

They've sent the download link to me by return and I've downloaded it so it looks like we are game on.