BTM_Pix

In all honesty, I think you are opening up yourself to a world of clunky lashing stuff together ugliness trying to do this. I'm not going to recommend any specific monitors etc but here is one example way to do it by basing it on the sort of 3.5inch monitor used for reversing cameras in cars. This will take in power and composite video and you'll then need one of these extension cables that carries both. This then connects to an HDMI to composite converter like this Then you will have to run power to the converter and also of course up to the monitor. The converter can run directly off USB so a dual outlet power bank would do it if you use one of these to supply power to the monitor on the other port as the monitor can run off 9v. And then you just need to add a DSLR loupe that will cover 3.5 screen to the monitor and have a way of attaching it, so try and find one of those that has the magnetic frame type of attachment. Typical prices for this sort of stuff on Aliexpress would be Monitor €12-15 Cables €8-12 HDMI>Composite €6-10 USB>9v step up €3-5 Loupe €10-14 So somewhere between €40-55 plus the cost of the power bank. Now there is no doubt at the viewing end of this that it will be relatively neat and compact but there is a price to pay at the other end for that (same as there will be in the part of the original photograph that isn't visible) but with enough velcro and gaffer tape I'm sure it could be made to work.

It looks like a BNC connector but that doesn't necessarily mean its SDI and in this case it will be regular analogue composite video. If you trace the cable down it disappears below the bottom of the photograph where I would suspect there to be a VGA>Composite converter taking VGA from the camera to it and the same cable can also carry the power to it. In which case the monitor itself could be anything from a repurposed CCTV check monitor to a reversing camera screen which they have then lashed a loupe to. So whilst it looks intriguing in the picture, there is likely a bit of a mess that you can't see and the quality itself may not be all that but probably adequate for the job in hand at that time. There is nothing to stop you lashing your own equivalent version together for modern cameras with a reversing camera screen etc, a loupe and an HDMI>Composite converter for probably under €40-50. Converting to composite will give you the advantage of having a much thinner and more flexible cable running up to your eye than HDMI would. I think the Cinemizer glasses are around €600 but have seen them on eBay for less than half that. Considering VR headsets like the Oculus Go or PSVR are under €200 even those prices seem steep.

The monitoring output on the S2K is VGA if I remember correctly so it is likely a custom/lashup version of a small monitor. In more contemporary times he has been sporting a pair of Carl Zeiss Cinemizer OLED glasses.

Well that particular cyclist certainly did. And had plenty of carry space left for a few prescriptions. The stuff on his prescriptions certainly helped with the weightless thing. Without sacrificing any power.

To spare the expense of buying one, I think you could use a single GH2 if you wanted a video challenge with it. Start with someone who doesn't mind being parted with it for a while, they make a film over two days with it and then they post it on to the next person who does the same over two days and then sends it on etc until it gets back to the original owner. Even for people who don't own any MFT lenses there are plenty of adapters on eBay for under £10 so its not going to break the bank to take part. As forum members are spread out all over the world, it would be quite an interesting project even if the subject was just "one day where I live". If no one fancies parting with their own GH2, it wouldn't exactly be difficult to throw £10 each into the PayPal account of someone trusted to group buy one off eBay. I know of a cheap one for sale in Cairo.

I agree. In the new normal, ANY camera over $3K (or possibly even less) is going to be a tough sell/niche product for a very long time so I think the people who want it and can afford it won't be overly sensitive to a price variance of $1000, particularly as there won't be anything out there matching the spec. On that basis, if Canon can't get this camera down to that sort of $3K level then they might as well take the extra profit by going the other way. Specs wise, this camera is really approaching the "my forever camera" candidate for a lot of people as well so, combined with an impending global depression, it might well be the last chance to have a dance for Canon to make worthwhile money from these sort of cameras.

@Andrew Reid Looking at their specs on the website there is enough to make a claim under the Sale of Goods Act as it not being fit for purpose. The only restriction noted to video is an overall record time limit with nothing being described about power. You have to give the retailer the opportunity to fix it so, well, that won't be happening of course so you should be able to get a full refund.

The person in question detailed it himself on Instagram to be fair.

Judging by how few examples I've seen of people using it, I'm guessing they might not need a van to carry it. Or even a car. They could probably just send someone they know and trust over on a bike to get it.

Call me cynical but I think you pay the fee for the "upgrade", send it to Nikon, they clean the sensor so it looks like they've done something and then send whatever you've paid them straight on to RED as a royalty payment before sending your camera back

You are also hereby licensed to use the phrase "the forgotten art of using a few lights now and again" as well !

Do the new ones come ready equipped for ProResRAW straight out of the box now or do you still need to send them in to be modified?

Its produced naturally (intentionally or otherwise) by refraction when using narrower apertures. You can buy filters such as this cheap and cheerful set which will create the effect without having to stop down. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Fotover-Filter-Pieces-Olympus-Cameras/dp/B07LF8KY4F

I started with the unexpanded (1K of RAM) version of the ZX81. Of course, we were happy then, even though we were poor.

The old "reply to your own post and insert spam link" routine @ricardotore

Replying to your own post and sneakily adding a spam link to it. Yawn. Don't let the door hit your arse on the way out.

No, honestly, I have.

Sigma now do a plugin for Photoshop https://www.sigma-global.com/en/download/cameras/sigma-x3f-plug-in-for-photoshop/ The Quattro series can use DNG so its less of an issue than it was on the DP series. Sigma PhotoPro has improved quite a lot from when I first started using it but, yeah, its still not exactly super fast. Most of the time I just use the batch processor in PhotPro to save them to TIFFs and then edit them in Lightroom.

<makes last minute spec addition> This new thingy will make audio mixing a bit easier/more intuitive when you do though

I will do a thread about it next week. Its nothing earth shattering to be honest

These micro toggle switches might the way to go in terms of getting switches outside of the case and aesthetically they won't look too far out of whack with the Bolex. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Positions-Miniature-Connection-Arduino-Switches/dp/B07ZYKQ4F5 You have to buy them in a pack of 10 but thats no bad thing as you could use a few of them to toggle between different preset functions etc. This link will give you some example code based around Picamera to be able to start and stop the recording from an external switch. https://www.raspberrypi.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=43&t=195019&hilit=Camera#p1221076

I've only skimmed through it but the implication of it for the future is that boards with other (higher quality) sensors could be developed by 3rd parties and this API would provide a standardised way of accessing them. So you would create one control app that would work with whatever sensor you had attached to the board, thereby establishing the PI as a generic starting point for independent camera development. The reality here though is that the boards with the higher quality sensors have to exist so it will be a good while before this bears fruit and, even then, access to the sorts of sensors that people on here would be interested in aren't readily available so as always expectations have to be managed with what this really means in terms of viable alternatives to "real" cameras being available soon.

Yeah, for the P4K Panasonic have 14-42mm and 45-175mm powered zoom lenses and Olympus have a 12-50mm. For the 6K, the servo thingy (Canon refer to it as the PZ-E1 which is a far less useful name ) could be used remotely with some modification as the 18-135 is quite a good range for this sort of stuff.

And for anyone who does rush out and buy one (or has any ATEM product for that matter), I've developed an interesting little product for it.....

+1 for the fp. Very rarely have to go into a menu once you've set it up, which is always a good sign but could maybe do with a programmable button on the front. One annoyance with the QS button is that it retains selection by numbered position rather than function so I leave it on ISO (which is option 6 when in Cine mode) as thats what I am most likely to change but when I change to Stills mode and press the QS is it is on the JPEG/RAW selection which is option 6 in that mode. Tell your mate about that one next time he is re-tweeting your pictures ! With regard to the SL2, I could have done with that faux leather finish on my SL as it probably would have averted the disaster I had dropping it onto the tiled floor.