BTM_Pix

Yeah, it was just a general comment on the quality of it with a typical Sigma LCD. The DP0 is predominantly a landscape camera so its a slower pace where it doesn't get in the way in the same respect. Although with the Foveon's achilles heel of being a low ISO camera the point of contact is welcome when you're fighting shutter speeds all the time. Video use on the DP0 is moot Yeah its a perennial topic on here, usually punctuated by me moaning about why I can't have small tilting EVF like my Leica ones. The Leica T/TL is in the same vein as the FP and whilst its perfectly usable as is, the addition of the external hotshoe mounted EVF is transformative. When you look at the PCBs for these cameras (and those of Olympus who provided Leica with the early version for the X Vario etc ) it is tapped from the same place as the rear LCD. Keeping it in that MIPI fornat gives a lot more options in terms of physical screen size but also in overall form factor as you don't need the converter board or additional powering source as you do with an HDMI one, hence why the other cameras such as Leica, Olympus, Canon and Sony can have such neat little packages. When your only outlet from the camera is HDMI then you are a bit stuck, although you can get HDMI>MIPI converter boards so you can then roll your own solution but the drawback is the board is roughly half the size if not more than the FP itself so it becomes a bit self defeating. It would have made perfect sense for Sigma to have included an EVF option and its a bit of a headscratcher why they didn't. There is no standard for the multipin connector that carries the signal and power but they still had the option of making their own (they have EVFs in their SD Q/H range so its not alien technology for them) or licensing the one from Olympus. The reasoning could be that they have something USB-C based, which is plausible as it could be compact but of course rules out one of its primary features, or that, more, likely they have a different model coming with an inbuilt EVF. Pretty much like the Leica CL is to the Leica T/TL.

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I'm going to go for a new slant on the genre and start JohnsonRumours, where I post reports of statements that the Prime Minister has made that might actually be true. I'll grant you the US franchise so you can do the same with TrumpRumors.

Correct, once it has been done for the first time there is absolutely no need to ever switch it on again.

Maybe 43Rumors will say Vitaliy was one of those nine. This is from an interview he did on their site in 2011. Quite prescient really https://www.43rumors.com/cameras-are-like-beer-vitaly-kiselev-interviewed-by-43rumors/

I like it when rumour sites give a rating to the veracity of their own rumours. Its pretty much the equivalent to people ranking their own farts. My new favourite is when they are self important enough to announce the countdown to the unveiling of a new rumour. "I'm going to announce something that is highly likely to be untrue but by ramping up your anticipation and making you wait for the announcement this gives it some degree of importance so you are far more likely to believe it to be true". Which reminds me, when is the Tory manifesto being released ?

"...The storage device can be connected to the housing with a flexible cable, thus allowing the storage device to be moved somewhat independently from the housing..." AKA the original RED ONE drives.

Yeah, there is an adapter that Febon make but it all gets messy and not a little expensive. One of those situations where it would make more sense to spend £40-50 on a generic Android device that you dedicate to it but again its going to block the USB recording option. The Cineye would tick both boxes in terms of not blocking the SSD recording option and running on iOS but, as compact as it is for such a device, its definitely going to undermine the whole compact form factor aspect of the FP.

Ah. Well in that case, no I don't.

Nikon provide one here https://downloadcenter.nikonimglib.com/en/products/493/Z_6.html

It is UVC compliant so should be able to be used as is with any app that supports it like EasyCap or CameraFi (there are free versions of both that you can try it on). I wouldn't hold my breath on Sigma doing anything connectivity wise with the FP at the moment as its not something they have any track record with and were very non-committal and vague about it when I spoke to them. But yeah, either way, the big kicker is of course that it takes away the SSD option.

The Acsoon Cineeye and a cheap Android phone could give you that sort of thing. It has a lot of good features like grayscale, RGB, monochrome, false colour, focus peaking, LUT loading etc and the signal can be monitored by up to 4 devices simultaneously. Decent range and latency as well. I'm going to do a quick write up about it sometime in the week as whilst my primary interest in it was live view remote with my app for the Pocket4K it has some potential for the FP as well. With the Cineeye, these 2.5inch £50 Android phones could potentially be combined with a loupe to make a wireless self powered version of the LS300 lash up that I did. Just need to make sure that the phone has enough grunt to run the Cineeye app, which I doubt will be an issue but the resolution might be.

I've got the same one on my Sigma DP 0 and its very serviceable to be fair. I actually also used it to make a DIY low cost EVF with a £30 raspberry pi panel and a thin USB power bank with some success. The compact affordable EVF is a totally wide open market for someone and I don't understand why its not being filled by someone. Portkeys looked like it was going to be them but not only is it not particularly cheap (£1200 ish) but going by this review its got a serious problem with noise. Above that is the Zacuto Gratical X Micro which is about £500 more expensive and you're then getting into the territory of it being as much as the camera itself, although of course that cost can be spread amongst several cameras if you use them.

That is a requirement in Android purely for the initial bonding of a new Bluetooth Low Energy device. Once the camera has been bonded for the first time then it can be switched off and used without. Some more information about it in these two threads and you can download the user guide from our site at www.cdatek.com to see the if the features are what you need before you waste your money on it. As I say though, for what you are doing with it then if you don't need any of its extra stuff then there are plenty of other apps available that will do the job for you. You can't. Although you can change the display to be 1/nth shutter speeds instead of angles, it is still relative to the frame rate so as the minimum off speed the camera can be set to is 5fps this results in a minimum shutter speed of 1/5th of a second.

You can make aperture/ISO/WB/shutter angle changes during the time-lapse either directly on the camera or via an app. Shutter angles are 11.2 , 15 , 22.5 , 30 , 37.5 , 45 , 60 , 72 , 75 , 90 , 108 , 120 , 144 , 150 , 172.8 , 180 , 216 , 270 , 324 , 360 With regard to apps, I think there is someone on here who makes one that seems to work but if you don't want the extra stuff that that one does like recallable focus and exposure memories, custom white balance stores etc then there are a bunch of others that will do the job for what you're doing.

There's no doubt that that combo did a more than decent job in matching up to the 18-35mm and you'll get full mileage out of it if you go full frame as no one ever got fired for buying a 24-70mm f2.8!

And you hired the 24-70mm as well ? So the purchase you're considering would be both the 24-70mm and the XL ?

Yes, that would be best practice for a Sony camera because of the importance of the database integrity. I'm not saying that it is necessarily causing the issues you have but its certainly a variable that you could eliminate.

Yes, I was referring to deleting them off the card when it is in a computer. I've never had a problem ingesting the images through a card reader but I tend to just copy the entire folder structure over as the card may contain combinations of stills and videos.

Re-formatting will resync the database with the actual contents of the card versus what it thinks is on the card. If you have been taking images off the card and then deleting them in the folder of the SD card then that might well cause it to lose sync as the database thinks they are still there. The issue in this link was related to the mark iii but could still be relevant in terms of symptoms. https://fstoppers.com/news/sony-warns-file-loss-bug-a7r-iii-and-a7-iii-315309 If I was trying to trace the issue then the two variables beyond a simple issue of database corruption that I'd try to eliminate would be the airborne aspect and the ground control system. What I would do is get one of these cheap time-lapse controllers (about £13 on Amazon) You can then programme it to do a 1 or 2 second interval timelapse while the camera is on the ground and prove whether its some sort of basic capacity/timing/file handling issue with the camera. Presuming it passes that test ( and I'm guessing that your rig would have the lifting capacity for the extra 145g it weighs) you could then run the same time-lapse programme on it while the camera is airborne doing a typical mapping session. As you will have proven the time-lapse works on the ground then this would then determine whether it is a problem with it being in the air. If it passes that test then you can re-test it properly with the ground control system (after re-formatting the card ). If you don't want to use the timelapse controller and don't mind delving in a bit further, you can install the Open Memories tweak on the camera which will let you install an internal time-lapse app https://sony-pmca.appspot.com/apps I've used that hack to change languages from both of my Japanese bought Sony cameras but to be honest though, if it was just for the time-lapse, and your rig can handle the weight then I think its easier to hand over the £13.

I wasn't clear about which lenses and speed boosters you own and which ones you rented ?

Yeah but "The Silver Haired Click Weasel" (© Ken Wheeler/Angry Photographer) said McCurry is a bad man so those images count for nothing ? It seems like Leica have moved it on another notch again with the menus as well. They look very, very smart.

One jpeg every 2 seconds doesn't sound like it would be taxing enough on any part of the system to cause failures like that. I'm guessing we can rule out heat with it being air cooled by the flight! You say you are clearing the images from the card but are you re-formatting it as well ? Does the SD card show an amount of spaced used that would correlate with the number of shots you'd expected to take or is it an exact match to the number of shots its did take ? Reason I'm asking those two questions is that Sony use a database system on their cards that may be corrupted. The missing link for virtually all, if not all, users on here who owns an A7Rii (me included!) is that we don't use them for aerials so you seem to have the reverse problem that you would with drone forums where they would by and large not be using that sort of camera so its tricky to get someone who knows about both ends. Sounds obvious but would it be possible for you create a mission plan where it didn't actually leave the ground but has the same sort of trigger pattern so that you could at least see/hear what the camera is up to? It could be something as simple that it is throwing some error pop-up (or one of their typical "you can't do that in this mode" ones) that is blocking the image being taken until it times out. If you can do that on the ground and it doesn't show any problems then its down to something when its airborne. This is absolutely pure speculation but I wonder if its possible that there is some sort of inhibitor regarding the IBIS that might not take too kindly to some of the movements that then triggers a masking period that stops it shooting again until its expired?

Love my SL. This new version has enough spec to realistically make it the last camera I'd ever need to buy and conveniently enough the price tag ensures that it probably would have to be the last camera I ever bought as well If they do a trade in programme then I'd possibly go for it but it would have to be a pretty generous one considering what that balance payment would probably end up being. For me, keeping the SL and using that balance to buy an Fp and a few L mount lenses would make more sense.

v1.5 has just gone live in the Play store so existing users should be getting this automatically round about now. To take into account differences in lens performance, particularly between native and adapted EF lenses, v1.5 introduces an "S" button to provide user selectable level of focus smoothing (S1 to S5) for lens control when you are using the Tilta Nucleus Nano. For native lenses the recommended level is S1-S2 and for EF adapted lenses S2-S5 but some lenses may be used with S1 also. As lens performance with adapters varies from lens to lens even from the same manufacturer, you can obviously change the S level with each change of lens.