UncleBobsPhotography

You should not buy a camera without High Dynamic Range at this point in time. As others have mentioned, most cameras today have quite high dynamic range even if they don't have log or HLG.

If you actually need a photo camera, then the Sony's are the only ones on that list which will satisfy you. Ignoring photography: If you are shooting video in a mostly controlled environment, get the BMPC4K. If it's more run-and-gun get the GH5 or GH5s.

My main issue with using Dropbox is that the quality is horrible when you watch it directly through a shared link. Everyone can download the original file, but when most viewers end up just watching the preview, that's a real drawback. If anyone knows a way to enable high-quality previews or embedded video from Dropbox, that would be appreciated.

I'm pretty sure they're using crazy fast shutter speed to get it to work. That doesn't mean that it's not useful, but it's simply not possible to make shaky 30p shot at 180 degrees good. I don't have any real proof, but I would have guessed her hair would usually have been more blurry in windy weather than this:

I've got the 55w bicolour fresnel with active cooling, bowens mount and wifi-dongle. They are the best value/performance of any fresnel I have encountered. It's relatively small, plenty of power options (AC/NP-F/D-tap) and the colour is good. ( https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1374812-REG/came_tv_f_55s_1_pc_came_tv_boltzen.html ) If I am to point out a couple of flaws: the wifi dongle is a bit sketchy. It uses an adapter from micro-usb to USB-A which is terrible. I bought a new adapter for $2 which is much better. Sometimes it took a bit of time to get the wifi to connect. I also got it with a free bowens mount included. The mount in itself worked pretty good, but when I put a softbox on it, the front element on the lamp is a bit loose, and I also with the screws on the side was a bit stiffer. My softbox is rather small, but if I had a bigger softbox it wouldn't work. However, taken the price into consideration I would consider the flaws reasonable. There aren't any other fresnel lamps at that price point with wifi and superb build quality.

If you want to get a fresnel one step cheaper than Aputure, then CameTVs Boltzen lights are ok

I can't find the source, but I have read that the GH5's internal bus has a limit a lot lower than 95MB/s for UHS-l. For UHD-II, the internal bandwidth is doubled. A hypothetical 80MB/s UHS-II might therefore have a higher write speed in the GH5 than a 95MB/s UHS-I card

The issue with electronic stabilization (as I'm sure you're aware) is the motion blur in each frame. One possible solution would be image stacking. With improved frame rates each of the 30 frames a second could be composed of 10 images aligned and combined to user specifications to acheive the appropriate level of motion blur. Or we could just use high framerate clips to reduce the problem.

If you want to use 15mm rods, the best you can hope for is AA batteries or 14500 lithium-ion batteries. Eneloop Pro batteries actually have higher energy density than 14500 volume-wise (but lower weight wise), and will make it easier to balance the battery, so let's use them for our example. 6 AA batteries in a row will give us 7.2v which is the same as the LP-E6N battery. 1 Eneloop Pro batteries gives us 2,500 mAh vs the 1865 mAh of the LP-E6N. The rod has to be minumum 30cm long to fit 6 AA batteries, which seems reasonable for a rod anyway. Using 2 of these rods will give us 5 000 mAh at 7.2V, which is equal to 2.7 LP-E6N batteries. Eneloop Pro batteries are 14.5mm in diameter, so I don't know if it's possible to fit them into a 15mm rod, but if the rod is purpose built I guess it's possible. Since the rod itself can be used as the negative wire, there is no need for an additional wire back. The other question is how the camera will interpret NiMH batteries. If we were to use 14500 batteries, two in a row would yield 800 mAh at 7.2V. More than 2 14500 batteries would require some kind of wiring, and they would need a balancing/protection board as well.

I quite liked that video. It was quite clear from the video that it was not about the GH5 being a better camera, but that they are two different types of cameras. The video was more about the GH5 than the P4K, and I even learned a few new things about the GH5. If some of his info was factually wrong, then that should of course be corrected. It would't surprise me if he will release a video about 50 reasons to pick the P4K over the GH5 later.

I also think this will be the future of Panasonic M43 now that they are going full frame. Full frame can't compete in the GX85 sized cameras category, and they will probably get the videofeatures of the GH5 soon enough.

Perhaps we should take more note from archery stabilizers: https://luacguides.wordpress.com/equipment/stabilizers/ The goal should be to spread the mass out as much as possible while keeping image sensor (or focal plane?) in the center of mass. Putting the battery on the very back is the most obvious way of doing this, but I've also got some tungsten weights I can attach to 15mm rods to get a similar effect while keeping size down.

Well, that's not the original video, so he made the music video and not the remix, it actually has 24 million views. I will never claim to understand k-pop music videos, like this one where it looks like they have forgot to grade their log footage:

I am currently using the Lowpro M-Trekker: https://blog.cameraelectronic.com.au/2018/04/a-victory-for-common-sense-lowepro-m-trekker/ It has two big advantages: -It doesn't look as bulky, and some might say dorky, as most camera bags. Except for the Lowepro logo, it doesn't look like a camera bag at all. -It's actually very comfortable to wear, even with a heavy load. It's stiff and worn close to the body. Downsides: -Not good for attaching a tripod. You're supposed to latch it on underneath, but it sticks out too much on both sides unless you have a very small tripod -It takes a little while to access your stuff because it opens on the side towards your body

I'm pretty sure he's talking about electronic stabilization. It is mentioned in the disclaimer that it crops in even further with stabilization. My main issue with electronic stabilization is that it doesn't counteract motionblur.

I wonder if future cinema/video cameras will be released on the new mount or if they will continue using the EF mount. The f2 lens and the filter-adapter both seem very neat, but the camera is missing too many check-boxes to be of interest for me.

I am not quite sure when the message comes and when it doesn't, but I've missed several moments because of it. I see that there is a hack online to remove it, but that shouldn't be necessary. I'm sure there are issues with every camera, but I've got the 6D, GH5 and RX1RII and the user interface and responsiveness of the two first is way ahead of the RX1RII, but then there is the sweet sweet image quality that makes up for it.

The list may be similar, but Sony are able to make simple lists complex. Here are some examples: 1) How do I save a memory setting on my RX1RII? I set all the settings as I'm supposed to, find the memory slot in one of the 50 pages in the menu and save it. How can I check if it's correct? I toggle back and forth on the memory dial to get the basic settings, however, nothing has changed. In fact nothing will change until you turn your camera off and on again. Not intuitive at all. 2) I use one of the playmemory apps and tries to change the aperture. I get the message "Operation not allowed in current mode". No explanation why. I try to manual focus, I get the message "Operation not allowed in current mode", no explanation. I have now figured out that if an app is allowed control over a function, you are not allowed to manually change it. This means you are not allowed to use manual focus to set up the picture when you are using a focus stacking app, which is idiotic. And you are probably not allowed to change the aperture on your camera while you are in a timelapse app if the timelapsee app has been given control over the aperture. 3) I turn on my camera and click record to capture the moment. Nothing happens. I had forgot to acknowledge the fact that my camera is in PAL mode, which has to be done each and every time I turn on my camera. I don't see any other manufacturer messing up their menus like this. The RX1RII is a marvel of engineering, but operating it can feel like hitting your head against a wall if you're trying to do something else than the basic ISO, aperture, SS settings.

1.4 lenses are usually either large (Sigma Art, Otus, Canon 35mm) or have to be stopped down significantly for stellar performance (Canon 50mm). There seems to be a trend to make slower lenses that are optimized for shooting wide open. I welcome this trend, but it sure would have been nice if they could have priced them close to the Canon 50mm.

I have the GH5 and the Sony RX1RII and in my opinion the level of details and dynamic range on the RX1RII is on a completely different level. With the GH5 I have to nail the shot to get it right, with the RX1RII I can miss the exposure completely, mess up the framing and shoot straight into the sun and still get decent results in post. It's hard to have fun shooting pictures with the GH5 when I'm using to something better. The strength of the GH5 is that it's able to put all of it's picture quality into it's video, which means that the "6K" video mode is very close to it's capabilities in photo mode. The great advantage of the GH5 is therefore if you need high framerate photography. It's also nice to have a non-intrusive telephoto lens with stabilization.

I agree that the focus transition works well in a controlled environment where you are doing the same focus pulls several times, however, I'm somewhat disappointed with how cumbersome it is to set it up and use it in practice. I wish I could set 1 button for focus at 1.4 m, one for focusing on 3.3 m and one at infinite and keep it like that at least until I switch lenses. From my limited use of focus transitions, it seems like it takes very little for the settings to reset, and I also wish I could ask the camera to go to position 1, 2 or 3 without going into the focus transition mode. Does anyone have any tips on how to use it more efficiently?

And to give some more context to your comments, the iPhone wasnt even allowed to be sold in South Korea before Samsung had their Galaxy S ready because of some bs excuse. That's why the iPhone 4 was the first iPhone for sale in SK. No wonder everything sold in Korea is made in Korea.

Since this is a thread about Nikon FF, I will try not turning it into me bragging about my internet speed. But I live in a major Scandinavian city. It's 180USD a month for 1/1Gbps, so not exactly cheap, but not an issue if you're running a business in need of it. Of course the availability depends a lot on your local ISP.

When discussing internet speed it's important to remember that the infrastructure varies greatly between countries. Where i live 40/40Mbits is the slowest option you can choose. 500/500Mbits is the standard if you get the TV package and you can get 1Gbits/1Gbits fairly cheap as well (if not even higher). This has made cloud storage an easy choice for me.

If Samsung can provide first class reliability+newest hardware then that's a winning concept for me. The Bixby button was the exact opposite...