UncleBobsPhotography

I have been using the rig in the attached photo lately. To make the rig more stable, you should position the weight as spread out as possible. Putting the powerbank on the end of the rods makes a big differenc, and it's also nice to have it powering the camera. The mid handle is in the centre of gravity which makes it better to handle. I attach the front handle when I want to shoulder mount it. All together the pieces cost about $150 from eBay

I am looking forward to this one: https://www.yitechnology.com/180-vr-camera (or Lenovos version https://www.theverge.com/2018/1/9/16866260/lenovo-mirage-camera-180-vr-youtube-video-ces-2018 ) In my opinion stereoscopical 180 degree is the way to go. Most people prefer to sit down and not break their neck. The 180 VR will probably lack dynamic range, but with good lighting I think it should be able to produce some decent results. Even though stereoscopical view needs more resolution to cover both eyes, the experienced resolution is higher when each eye sees something different.

With the release of the a7iii with full sensor readout at 24p I am wondering what resolution the a7siii will have. Keeping the 12mp sensor might mean the picture quality will be worse than the a7iii, which would leave us with an odd choice. I am hoping for 10 bit h265.

Isn't 200Mbit/s the highest non-intra bitrate of any of the cameras in its class? The GH5 only uses 150Mbit/s and the a7rIII only uses 100Mbit/s. Intra is a less efficient codec, so even though the GH5 has a 400Mbit/s codec, this could theoretically have the least amount of compression artefacts in its class.

The advantage with vertical shooting is that people's expectations are much lower and it's much easier to stand out among other vertical videos. I have shot some vertical videos (with a proper camera) for facebook, and I would definitely recommend it for short facebook content. Most people keep their cell phone vertical while watching video on their cell-phones (except for netflix perhaps), but whether you should film vertically or not depends on how well the app which the video will be played from supports vertical resolutions. As an example, YouTube supports vertical videos well in full screen mode, but people watching it on their phone will most likely either turn it horizontally it for full-screen, or watch it vertically with comments underneath, which would remove the whole point of filming vertically.

It seems to me that the low frame rate is the only problem. If you play it back in 1/4 speed you notice that it moves the same amount in each frame, and it´s not actually jumping back and forth (which is what I consider jitter). It almost feels like the frame rate is less than 24 fps, but I don't have the time to measure it. If the shot was more blurry it would be less obvious, but I would say increasing the frame rate would be the best way to go. This tack sharp kind of video isn't emulating film anyway, so no need to keep it at 24fps.

I really like the H1 for how convenient it is to use with the built in microphones, but the lack of sound insulation for the microphone made the built in mics unusable for outdoor use. Wind hitting the handle would be enough to distort the sound. I hope the H1n has improved that part. As a pure recorder I find the Tascam DR-10 to make more sense.

Thanks for the tips. I am sure practice is what I need the most, but it's good to know to focus on. When using full manual I sometimes forget that I have put the ISO to 6400 or that the white balance is set to a different setting, but I am sure the fastest way to stop doing these mistake is to keep on doing them until I learn.

They extend the ISO range by 1 stop, but that doesn't necessarily tell us anything about how much noise improvement there is. With bigger pixels, multi-aspect ratio (potentially larger sensor area) and dual native ISO, the difference could be substantial.he Without IBIS, the GH5s will not be relevant for me, but I guess it will be the cheapest way to get good quality Cinema 4k in 60p for those who need that.

Some more GH5S specs have been leaked: http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:nTmLu6vItjcJ:www.techradar.com/news/the-lumix-gh5s-is-panasonics-most-video-focused-camera-yet Does the new multi-aspect ratio sensor mean it will use a larger surface area than the GH5 while shooting video? No mentions about IBIS in the article.

This is probably a very basic concept, but I would like to get some tips on how to get the most consistent exposure during documentary filmmaking with limited preparation time. With most settings on automatic, the camera might change the exposure dramatically if a dark or light subject enters the frame, which is difficult to make up for in post. The obvious solution would be to shoot with everything on manual, but I don't really have time to make manual adjustments between clips since I don't know what I'm going to film next. My next option would be to use AELock-toggle. This way I can fix the exposure with a single push of a button, either for the duration of a clip or keep it locked for several clips until I change position. As far as I can see, this should be a decent compromise between convenient and results, but I would like to hear any tips you might have on how you ensure consistency during run-gun-shooting.

In my opinion, owning physical movies is a waste of space and money. The format will be outdated the next time I want to watch it, and it's faster to find it online than to prepare my pop-corn anyway. I might be slightly biased since I haven't owned a DVD player (or a Bluray player) the last 14 years.

I haven't been shooting any BW video, but I'm wondering, does any of the major camera models provide a format to shoot BW without storing the colour information? Or does h264 already handle this effectively? It wouldn't surprise me if MagicLantern had implemented BW-RAW, but haven't used ML for video myself. The Leica Monochrome with a BW-video format should be capable of some amazing dynamic range if done correctly.

After updating ti high Sierra, I get black flickering when i run applications or Netflix in full screen mode. Icons are also randomly replaced with default icons. I got my first Mac recently, and have to say I'm impressed with the hardware but annoyed with the software, which is the opposite of what I thought would happen.

A quick question from someone considering buying a gimbal: do the gimbals give a smooth picture to unstabilised cameras, or are there micro-jitters which requires OIS/IBIS for best performance? My camera is about 500g lens included, so I'm thinking of the Zhiyun Crane M category. 35mm FF, so slightly wide angle.

I've had the Thinkpad X1 Yoga with an OLED screen for a bit over a year without any burn in issues. The odd thing is that I don't know of any other laptops with an OLED screen, so I wonder why.

I agree with your post, but thought I would add my opinion on the 3D failure> 180 degree stereoscopical 3D with VR head-set looks good (if done correctly) and adds immersion. Cinema/TV style 3D glasses makes the image look bad (to me at least) and 3d doesn't really add any immersion when it's confined to a rectangular box. Shooting a whole movie in 180 degree stereoscopical 3D would require a completely different take on filmmaking, but in my opinion that's when it will add value. (360 degree video is a dead end when it comes to films with a narrative.)

What is the reason why parfocal lenses are important? Because you zoom during a shot, because you zoom in to nail focus, or because parfocal zooms are of better quality? I'm only asking because I never zoom during my clips, which seems like the main advantage of parfocal lenses.

I agree, I bought the Sony RX1RMII at release, and it currently retails for more than I paid for it. I can get back 2/3 of my cost if I sell it used, which I consider quite good after having used the camera for this long.

I'm sorry, but I don't have any publicly available content. When it comes to the RX1RII, the bokeh is extremely pleasant, but I wouldn't recommend anyone to buy it for video work. It has overheating issues at 1080p (shuts down after 5 minutes without using a powerbank) and lacks the super35 crop of the a7rII, so you're stuck with a single focal length. The electronic image stabilization is also unusable. I don't know how it process the 1080p, so I'm curious to find out how it performs in low light compared with other modern cameras. I would guess it uses the same implementation as the a7rII, but I don't know.

This setup is really good for stability. The moment of inertia is moved so far away from the handle and with the lens in the middle, that it largely made up for my lack of OIS.

I have attached a 10000mA power bank to my camera cage which charges the camera through USB. Helps with the heat issue, I never run out of battery and the added weight is good for stabilisation. I'm using the RX1RM2, but it should work for the a6500 too.

I really like Matt Workmans channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/cinematographydb Unfortunately a lot of his old "The Cinematography of... " videos got taken down, but there is still a lot of good content there.

Any idea how this thing focuses or if it focuses at all? At f4/0 with a 1" sensor it's a bit of a far fetch to say that "everything is in focus", although I guess they could rely on hyperfocal-point. I find the idea behind the RX0 to be interesting, but there are too many things missing for me. If I could use touch-to focus on an Atomos I can see how it could make for some interesting setups, but then I'm stuck with the 24mm f4. I guess two of these for VR could be nice.

I'm worried about the interface. One of the options was to control it with PlayMemories. I have used countless hours on PlayMemories apps on my RX1R and it's been a total waste of time, the user-interface is un-usable. I know that Sony gave several different options for controlling it, but I will have to wait and see if any of them are usable.